Tips for Prepping/Painting Cement-Asbestos Siding?
Craig Hinners
the home inspector). I want to paint over the existing
"appliance-white" latex paint. It is in fair condition, with some
peeling, chipping, and fading, more so on the SE and SW sides with
constant exposure to the sun.
Any tips on how to prep this surface? I am concerned about the dust
generated by sanding this material. This aside, I'm not sure as to
how effective sanding would be anyway on something so tough, brittle,
and non-porous. My intuition is that new cement siding would take a
coat of paint well, since the cement is still porous, but no amount of
prep is going to remove 40 years of built-up paint and expose bare
cement. The siding has a vertical ripple texture, which compounds the
difficulty of sanding it. Right now I'm leaning towards using a drill
with a wire brush or composite paint sanding disk attachment to remove
the loose stuff followed by a good washing.
Also, any tips on what type of paint to use to go over the existing?
(I don't think there are many options here...)
Many thanks.
Tom J
Craig Hinners <chin...@home.com> wrote:
> I have a 1959 house with cement-asbestos siding (or so I was told by
> the home inspector). I want to paint over the existing
> "appliance-white" latex paint. It is in fair condition, with some
> peeling, chipping, and fading, more so on the SE and SW sides with
> constant exposure to the sun.
>
> Any tips on how to prep this surface?
Don't do any sanding! You will be sending asbestos dust particles
everywere, which is a violation of hazardous materials handling. Rent
a pressure washer to clean and knock off the loose paint, then repaint
with another coat of latex paint to seal it all back.
--
tomj...@my-Deja.com
http://homepages.go.com/~tomjanis/
http://homepages.go.com/~aviontravelcade/
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.
Paul Broussard
(snip)
> (I don't think there are many options here...)
Craig-
Make sure that the siding is clean and free from oxidation, or chaulky
surfaces. Topcoat with a quality acrylic, you'll geet many years of
service.
--
Broussard Paint Contractors, friend of Bill's
http://www.broussardpaint.bigstep.com/
Need a painter? www.qpainter.com
themr...@my-deja.com
Craig Hinners <chin...@home.com> wrote:
> I have a 1959 house with cement-asbestos siding (or so I was told by
> the home inspector). I want to paint over the existing
> "appliance-white" latex paint. It is in fair condition, with some
> peeling, chipping, and fading, more so on the SE and SW sides with
> constant exposure to the sun.
>
> generated by sanding this material. This aside, I'm not sure as to
> how effective sanding would be anyway on something so tough, brittle,
> and non-porous. My intuition is that new cement siding would take a
> coat of paint well, since the cement is still porous, but no amount of
> prep is going to remove 40 years of built-up paint and expose bare
> cement. The siding has a vertical ripple texture, which compounds the
> difficulty of sanding it. Right now I'm leaning towards using a drill
> with a wire brush or composite paint sanding disk attachment to remove
> the loose stuff followed by a good washing.
>
> (I don't think there are many options here...)
Hi there.
I'm in the same exact position that you're in (needing to paint my
cement-asbestos siding). From what I've read, do NOT sand, scrape, or
power wash it. Sanding and scraping will create asbestos dust, and power
washing can damage the rather fragile shingles. If your shingles are
like mine, there's a gap between them on the sides, and power washing
could force water behind them.
I think the best bet (and what I'll eventually do) is to get a good scrub
brush and go over them with TSP, rinsing them off with water afterwards.
Mine have a fair amount of chalking on them, and the TSP should get rid
of that. I think the brush will safely remove any loose paint without
releasing any asbestos dust. I'll then prime them with an oil primer (as
I'm not sure if the existing paint is oil or latex) and put two coats of
quality latex paint on them.
Asbestos-cement siding hold paint REALLY well. When painted properly,
you should get a very long life out of your paint job.
Chris
===============================================
Chris Freemesser themr...@my-dejanews.com
===============================================
pioneer
have been popular after WW II. What I have found works the best is a
primer called 898 Pigmented Bonding Coat from Porter Paint. It is
actually a single-component epoxy that thins with paint thinner.
I found I can powerwash it if I use and ELECTRIC 1400 PSI power
washer with a swirling or rotating tip like a TurboTip. It's not as
powerful as a gasoline 2400 PSI unit that is what most rental shops
offer. I use bleach in the siphon, because my garage picked up a lot of
mildew/lichen.
The important thing with the Pigmented Bonding Coat is that you have
to thin it until it dries flat. I have gone as much as 3 quarts of
thinner per gallon until it quit drying shiny. At that point, the
primer is penetrating the tile and/or solidifying the chalky paint over
the shingle. After it dries, I topcoat with a quality acrylic paint.
Done this way, I've had jobs last over 15 years and still look good. Of
course, the topcoat is supposed to gradually weather away.
Bob Haight