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Ceiling drywall shadow-How to conceal

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SuzerB222

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Jun 10, 2004, 4:25:32 PM6/10/04
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We just removed our old popcorn ceiling and had someone come in to patch etc
and then apply a light texture to the ceiling. We have applied 2 coats of
Lowe's American Tradition High Hiding Primer using the roller method of
application. Depending on where you're standing you can see the darker area of
the drywall (I call it a shadow). I can't really tell if this problem is
consistant throughout or just in certain spots. I guess my questions are: Is
this a common problem? Do we need to apply another coat of the same primer
before applying the top coat of the finished paint (we plan on 2 coats)? Or do
we need to use a different kind of primer to cover those "shadows" like Zinsser
Bulls Eye 1.2.3 or Kilz?? Your help will be much appreciated!!! Susanne

mwlogs

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Jun 10, 2004, 4:59:14 PM6/10/04
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You have not applied a finish coat of a good ceiling paint at this point?
Only 2 coats of primer? Primer is generally not intended to give you a good
looking finish, and may show some light or 'shadow-like' areas. It still
effectively seals the drywall so the finish coat will NOT have that
appearance. Go ahead and apply your finish coat. In fact, if you now have
the primer applied so evenly, you may find that you only need one finish
coat.

One tip on applying the finish coat: I've found that roller marks and the
like are less noticeable if you try to roll in a direction that is not in
line with the general line of sight as you enter the room. That is, say you
generally come into the room through a doorway at one end. Try NOT to roll
from that point to the other end of the room, rather roll from side to side
in relation to the door. That way your eye won't be drawn to anything that
might look like a line.

Mark


"SuzerB222" <suze...@cs.com> wrote in message
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SuzerB222

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Jun 10, 2004, 5:50:50 PM6/10/04
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>You have not applied a finish coat of a good ceiling paint at this point?
>Only 2 coats of primer?

That is correct. We have "not" applied a finish coat at this point. We have
only applied a primer (2 coats).

Thanks for your input. I guess we will proceed with the finish coat following
your tip on roll in a direction that is not in line with the general line of


sight as you enter the room.

In apprection,
Susanne

SQLit

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Jun 10, 2004, 7:39:03 PM6/10/04
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"SuzerB222" <suze...@cs.com> wrote in message
news:20040610162532...@mb-m24.news.cs.com...


When the ceiling are popcorned, they were not taped very well. Did this very
thing on a home I just sold. I paid a drywall contractor to refloat the
ceiling before painting. The first two coats looked like crap. Then I paid a
pro to paint the home before sale. He ended up putting 2 more coats on to
get it to not show the "shadows" which in my case were the seams.

He recommended a washable semi satin for the ceiling. Looked good when he
was done.


jeffc

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Jun 12, 2004, 2:14:37 AM6/12/04
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"SQLit" <SQLit...@cox.net> wrote in message
news:ri6yc.9722$fZ1.7767@fed1read03...

> He recommended a washable semi satin for the ceiling. Looked good when he
> was done.

What on earth for? Who needs a washable ceiling? Personally I don't like
any glare or sheen in the ceiling, but to each his own. Ceilings are
virtually always flat.


jeffc

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Jun 12, 2004, 2:13:27 AM6/12/04
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"mwlogs" <mwl...@excite-no-spam-me.com> wrote in message
news:CY3yc.74158$DG4....@fe2.columbus.rr.com...

> You have not applied a finish coat of a good ceiling paint at this point?
> Only 2 coats of primer? Primer is generally not intended to give you a
good
> looking finish, and may show some light or 'shadow-like' areas. It still
> effectively seals the drywall so the finish coat will NOT have that
> appearance. Go ahead and apply your finish coat.

And don't skimp on the paint. Cheap paint is too expensive. Why use 2
coats of cheap paint when you can use 1 coat of good paint? You need half
as much paint, and it takes half as long. Sherwin Williams Super Paint is a
good one. Some other top of the line paints are good too.

> One tip on applying the finish coat: I've found that roller marks and the
> like are less noticeable if you try to roll in a direction that is not in
> line with the general line of sight as you enter the room. That is, say
you
> generally come into the room through a doorway at one end. Try NOT to
roll
> from that point to the other end of the room, rather roll from side to
side
> in relation to the door. That way your eye won't be drawn to anything
that
> might look like a line.

That can usually be alleviated by using a roller with a good beveled edge.
Again, don't skimp. Purdy White Dove are good.


George E. Cawthon

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Jun 12, 2004, 7:19:27 PM6/12/04
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jeffc wrote:
>
> "SQLit" <SQLit...@cox.net> wrote in message
> news:ri6yc.9722$fZ1.7767@fed1read03...
> > He recommended a washable semi satin for the ceiling. Looked good when he
> > was done.

> ((Snipped )). Ceilings are
> virtually always flat.

Not in my house. Not in the bathrooms and not in the kitchen/dining
area. I wouldn't have it any other way.

jeffc

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Jun 12, 2004, 10:40:37 PM6/12/04
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"George E. Cawthon" <George...@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
news:40CB8F7D...@worldnet.att.net...

Like I said - who on earth needs to wash their bathroom ceiling? What the
heck are you doing in there?


ameijers

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Jun 13, 2004, 1:08:52 PM6/13/04
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"jeffc" <nob...@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:F8Pyc.21615$tH1.1...@twister.southeast.rr.com...
Never had a mold bloom, have you? Even if you always run the fan, sometimes
stuff grows. A wipable surface is a nice thing in damp areas. A non-porus
surface reduces the odds of the mold getting down into the paper and
drywall, if you catch it in time.
aem sends....

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