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Cleaning behind pool light
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Kurt Ullman
Aug 9, 2012, 3:16:21 PM8/9/12
to
I know an actual on-topic discussion, I'll try not to do it again any
time soon (grin).
I have been using way too much chlorine recently and the pool company
thinks it is algae behind the pool light. Any tips on how best to get
out?
Can I do it at normal water levels or will I need to drain.
As long as the light is turned off do I need to turn everything off
at the breaker?
Do I need to pull the light all the way out or can I loosen it and
put the suction hose for the Kreepy Krawly near by to suck it out?
Any other suggestions?
--
America is at that awkward stage. It's too late
to work within the system, but too early to shoot
the bastards."-- Claire Wolfe
time soon (grin).
I have been using way too much chlorine recently and the pool company
thinks it is algae behind the pool light. Any tips on how best to get
out?
Can I do it at normal water levels or will I need to drain.
As long as the light is turned off do I need to turn everything off
at the breaker?
Do I need to pull the light all the way out or can I loosen it and
put the suction hose for the Kreepy Krawly near by to suck it out?
Any other suggestions?
--
America is at that awkward stage. It's too late
to work within the system, but too early to shoot
the bastards."-- Claire Wolfe
Oren
Aug 9, 2012, 3:38:58 PM8/9/12
to
On Thu, 09 Aug 2012 15:16:21 -0400, Kurt Ullman <kurtu...@yahoo.com>
wrote:
>I know an actual on-topic discussion, I'll try not to do it again any
>time soon (grin).
>
> I have been using way too much chlorine recently and the pool company
>thinks it is algae behind the pool light. Any tips on how best to get
>out?
I pulled and put a new bulb in my light this season. No algae behind
it to speak of.
> Can I do it at normal water levels or will I need to drain.
Yes. No need to drain. Usually one Phillips screw to remove the light
from the niche. Located at the bottom of the light rim.
> As long as the light is turned off do I need to turn everything off
>at the breaker?
I do... so do it...
> Do I need to pull the light all the way out or can I loosen it and
>put the suction hose for the Kreepy Krawly near by to suck it out?
The light sits in a metal recessed niche. It is filled with water to
keep the light cooler. The suction hose should work fine. I did not
bother. I just got some old plaster splatter out by hand after the
light was out. Just sit the light and wire on the deck so you can
clean.
> Any other suggestions?
Inspect the wire and coil the wire a bit so it fits neatly back into
the niche. When you remove the single screw, then lift upwards to
remove the light from the small top tab(s).
--
wrote:
>I know an actual on-topic discussion, I'll try not to do it again any
>time soon (grin).
>
> I have been using way too much chlorine recently and the pool company
>thinks it is algae behind the pool light. Any tips on how best to get
>out?
it to speak of.
> Can I do it at normal water levels or will I need to drain.
from the niche. Located at the bottom of the light rim.
> As long as the light is turned off do I need to turn everything off
>at the breaker?
> Do I need to pull the light all the way out or can I loosen it and
>put the suction hose for the Kreepy Krawly near by to suck it out?
keep the light cooler. The suction hose should work fine. I did not
bother. I just got some old plaster splatter out by hand after the
light was out. Just sit the light and wire on the deck so you can
clean.
> Any other suggestions?
Inspect the wire and coil the wire a bit so it fits neatly back into
the niche. When you remove the single screw, then lift upwards to
remove the light from the small top tab(s).
--
Kurt Ullman
Aug 9, 2012, 3:46:02 PM8/9/12
to
In article <7k38289a9qdd7lv4l...@4ax.com>,
Oren <Or...@127.0.0.1> wrote:
> On
wasn't able to get the chlorine up where it needed to be and pool has
been cloudy. After multiple shocks, one time double shock three days in
a row, with little increase in free or total chlorine, this is the
latest guess.. er suggestion.
Oren <Or...@127.0.0.1> wrote:
> On
> Inspect the wire and coil the wire a bit so it fits neatly back into
> the niche. When you remove the single screw, then lift upwards to
> remove the light from the small top tab(s).
> --
Thanks. I used almost $500 of shock and chlorine last month and still
> the niche. When you remove the single screw, then lift upwards to
> remove the light from the small top tab(s).
> --
wasn't able to get the chlorine up where it needed to be and pool has
been cloudy. After multiple shocks, one time double shock three days in
a row, with little increase in free or total chlorine, this is the
latest guess.. er suggestion.
Stormin Mormon
Aug 9, 2012, 3:53:44 PM8/9/12
to
Do you have a long pole, to drag the bottom to search for cadavers? I'm
missing my pet elephant, about the last couple days.
Might be cheaper than $500 to drain the pool through backwash, and put in
all new water?
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Kurt Ullman" <kurtu...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:tfOdnX_UjajnjrnN...@earthlink.com...
missing my pet elephant, about the last couple days.
Might be cheaper than $500 to drain the pool through backwash, and put in
all new water?
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Kurt Ullman" <kurtu...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:tfOdnX_UjajnjrnN...@earthlink.com...
Oren
Aug 9, 2012, 4:02:26 PM8/9/12
to
On Thu, 09 Aug 2012 15:46:02 -0400, Kurt Ullman <kurtu...@yahoo.com>
wrote:
>Thanks. I used almost $500 of shock and chlorine last month and still
>wasn't able to get the chlorine up where it needed to be and pool has
>been cloudy. After multiple shocks, one time double shock three days in
>a row, with little increase in free or total chlorine, this is the
>latest guess.. er suggestion.
>-
Did they suggest to drain the pool water? About every 2.5-3 years I
have to drain about 1/3 of the water and refill. $500 for shock is
crazy I think. I'm not real bright on pool chemistry, but you can get
a chlorine lock and it stops working.
I'll leave chemistry to other posters...
--
wrote:
>Thanks. I used almost $500 of shock and chlorine last month and still
>wasn't able to get the chlorine up where it needed to be and pool has
>been cloudy. After multiple shocks, one time double shock three days in
>a row, with little increase in free or total chlorine, this is the
>latest guess.. er suggestion.
>-
have to drain about 1/3 of the water and refill. $500 for shock is
crazy I think. I'm not real bright on pool chemistry, but you can get
a chlorine lock and it stops working.
I'll leave chemistry to other posters...
--
tra...@optonline.net
Aug 9, 2012, 4:39:47 PM8/9/12
to
On Aug 9, 4:02 pm, Oren <O...@127.0.0.1> wrote:
> On Thu, 09 Aug 2012 15:46:02 -0400, Kurt Ullman <kurtull...@yahoo.com>
The problem I see with the pool light theory is how much
algae can there be behind the pool light? For it to continue to
effect chlorine that much in the whole pool
you would think there would have to be a lot of it.
When dealing with these problems it's almost always
better to hit the pool with a lot of chlorine at once
rather than add it a bit at a time. $500 can be a huge
amount of chlorine if you're using a cheap form. Even
if you're using the more expensive forms it sounds
like a lot though.
What increase in chlorine have you targeted? Does
the chlorine show up, but then disappear slowly
over days or does it never show up to begin with or
disappear in hours?
You have stabilizer in the pool?
Also if algae is the theory, it might be more effective
and cheaper to use an algaecide.
> On Thu, 09 Aug 2012 15:46:02 -0400, Kurt Ullman <kurtull...@yahoo.com>
algae can there be behind the pool light? For it to continue to
effect chlorine that much in the whole pool
you would think there would have to be a lot of it.
When dealing with these problems it's almost always
better to hit the pool with a lot of chlorine at once
rather than add it a bit at a time. $500 can be a huge
amount of chlorine if you're using a cheap form. Even
if you're using the more expensive forms it sounds
like a lot though.
What increase in chlorine have you targeted? Does
the chlorine show up, but then disappear slowly
over days or does it never show up to begin with or
disappear in hours?
You have stabilizer in the pool?
Also if algae is the theory, it might be more effective
and cheaper to use an algaecide.
Kurt Ullman
Aug 9, 2012, 4:59:56 PM8/9/12
to
In article <tAUUr.223526$Xd3.1...@news.usenetserver.com>,
refilling I had to do for backwashing and the evaporation from 100+
degree weather.
"Stormin Mormon" <cayoung61***spam...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Do you have a long pole, to drag the bottom to search for cadavers? I'm
> missing my pet elephant, about the last couple days.
>
> Might be cheaper than $500 to drain the pool through backwash, and put in
> all new water?
>
Not even close. I had a $200+ water bill last month just for the small
> Do you have a long pole, to drag the bottom to search for cadavers? I'm
> missing my pet elephant, about the last couple days.
>
> Might be cheaper than $500 to drain the pool through backwash, and put in
> all new water?
>
refilling I had to do for backwashing and the evaporation from 100+
degree weather.
Kurt Ullman
Aug 9, 2012, 5:00:56 PM8/9/12
to
In article <pe58289a5sdaf7m7o...@4ax.com>,
3rd, refilled and did it again.
>
> I'll leave chemistry to other posters...
> --
Oren <Or...@127.0.0.1> wrote:
>
>
> Did they suggest to drain the pool water? About every 2.5-3 years I
> have to drain about 1/3 of the water and refill. $500 for shock is
> crazy I think. I'm not real bright on pool chemistry, but you can get
> a chlorine lock and it stops working.
We did that last year for other reasons. Actually we took it down a
>
>
> Did they suggest to drain the pool water? About every 2.5-3 years I
> have to drain about 1/3 of the water and refill. $500 for shock is
> crazy I think. I'm not real bright on pool chemistry, but you can get
> a chlorine lock and it stops working.
3rd, refilled and did it again.
>
> I'll leave chemistry to other posters...
> --
Oren
Aug 9, 2012, 5:10:59 PM8/9/12
to
On Thu, 9 Aug 2012 13:39:47 -0700 (PDT), "tra...@optonline.net"
<tra...@optonline.net> wrote:
>Also if algae is the theory, it might be more effective
>and cheaper to use an algaecide.
Good point. There is one for Yellow algae and one for Black algae?
<tra...@optonline.net> wrote:
>Also if algae is the theory, it might be more effective
>and cheaper to use an algaecide.
Why someone would tell the OP to pull the light without knowing this
is strange. (IMHO)
I've never been told to pull the light out and clean algae. The proper
water treatment gets behind and into the niche. That will treat it.
--
Message has been deleted
Stormin Mormon
Aug 9, 2012, 5:29:30 PM8/9/12
to
A couple decades ago, my parents had a pool. They drained it one time for
cleaning, and that was a very special couple days. We called the FD about
filling it back up. Would have been a bad idea, there is often a lot of rust
in the mains. They used the fill valve, and it took several days.
Sorry to hear water is so expensive.
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Kurt Ullman" <kurtu...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:RvCdnR13RoRRubnN...@earthlink.com...
cleaning, and that was a very special couple days. We called the FD about
filling it back up. Would have been a bad idea, there is often a lot of rust
in the mains. They used the fill valve, and it took several days.
Sorry to hear water is so expensive.
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Kurt Ullman" <kurtu...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
tra...@optonline.net
Aug 9, 2012, 5:42:26 PM8/9/12
to
On Aug 9, 5:20 pm, gfretw...@aol.com wrote:
> draining off some water is the only real answer.
My understanding of excessive stabilizer is that it
reduces the effectiveness of the chlorine, not that
it stops the chlorine from showing up. Meaning that
with too much stabilizer the proper level of chlorine
will still show on the test, it's just that it won't be
working like it should.
One thing I recommend is a Taylor test kit that
will test for all the necessary chemistry, including
stabilizer. They last several seasons and for
$50 or so it's well worth it
> On Thu, 09 Aug 2012 15:16:21 -0400, Kurt Ullman <kurtull...@yahoo.com>
> wrote:
>
> >I know an actual on-topic discussion, I'll try not to do it again any
> >time soon (grin).
>
> > I have been using way too much chlorine recently and the pool company
> >thinks it is algae behind the pool light. Any tips on how best to get
> >out?
> > Can I do it at normal water levels or will I need to drain.
> > As long as the light is turned off do I need to turn everything off
> >at the breaker?
> > Do I need to pull the light all the way out or can I loosen it and
> >put the suction hose for the Kreepy Krawly near by to suck it out?
> > Any other suggestions?
>
> How was your stabilizer in the chemical test. If it is way too high,
> wrote:
>
> >I know an actual on-topic discussion, I'll try not to do it again any
> >time soon (grin).
>
> > I have been using way too much chlorine recently and the pool company
> >thinks it is algae behind the pool light. Any tips on how best to get
> >out?
> > Can I do it at normal water levels or will I need to drain.
> > As long as the light is turned off do I need to turn everything off
> >at the breaker?
> > Do I need to pull the light all the way out or can I loosen it and
> >put the suction hose for the Kreepy Krawly near by to suck it out?
> > Any other suggestions?
>
> draining off some water is the only real answer.
My understanding of excessive stabilizer is that it
reduces the effectiveness of the chlorine, not that
it stops the chlorine from showing up. Meaning that
with too much stabilizer the proper level of chlorine
will still show on the test, it's just that it won't be
working like it should.
One thing I recommend is a Taylor test kit that
will test for all the necessary chemistry, including
stabilizer. They last several seasons and for
$50 or so it's well worth it
Message has been deleted
Don Phillipson
Aug 9, 2012, 7:24:50 PM8/9/12
to
"Kurt Ullman" <kurtu...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:tfOdnX_UjajnjrnN...@earthlink.com...
> Thanks. I used almost $500 of shock and chlorine last month and still
> wasn't able to get the chlorine up where it needed to be and pool has
> been cloudy. After multiple shocks, one time double shock three days in
> a row, with little increase in free or total chlorine, this is the
> latest guess.. er suggestion.
Unless you can find a competent pool store, better open a thread
here describing the colour problem in detail, with all values
measured by your pool test strips. You probably need to adjust
pH and total alkalinity as well as chlorine levels. Another likely
cause is a defective filter or dirt particles so fine they are not
trapped in the filter.
--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)
Kurt Ullman
Aug 10, 2012, 9:23:19 AM8/10/12
to
In article <k02rpr$j0a$2...@speranza.aioe.org>,
The color is white and cloudy. I haven't been able to see the main
drain, but I have a fountain running about half way down the pool and I
can see the hose to that all the way through.
drain, but I have a fountain running about half way down the pool and I
can see the hose to that all the way through.
tra...@optonline.net
Aug 10, 2012, 9:52:26 AM8/10/12
to
On Aug 9, 7:24 pm, "Don Phillipson" <e...@SPAMBLOCK.ncf.ca> wrote:
> "Kurt Ullman" <kurtull...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
They are notoriously inaccurate and in my experience
useless.
> "Kurt Ullman" <kurtull...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>
> news:tfOdnX_UjajnjrnN...@earthlink.com...
>
> > Thanks. I used almost $500 of shock and chlorine last month and still
> > wasn't able to get the chlorine up where it needed to be and pool has
> > been cloudy. After multiple shocks, one time double shock three days in
> > a row, with little increase in free or total chlorine, this is the
> > latest guess.. er suggestion.
>
> You are obviously getting poor advice at the pool supply store.
> Unless you can find a competent pool store, better open a thread
> here describing the colour problem in detail, with all values
> measured by your pool test strips.
Using pool test strips could be part of the problem.
> news:tfOdnX_UjajnjrnN...@earthlink.com...
>
> > Thanks. I used almost $500 of shock and chlorine last month and still
> > wasn't able to get the chlorine up where it needed to be and pool has
> > been cloudy. After multiple shocks, one time double shock three days in
> > a row, with little increase in free or total chlorine, this is the
> > latest guess.. er suggestion.
>
> You are obviously getting poor advice at the pool supply store.
> Unless you can find a competent pool store, better open a thread
> here describing the colour problem in detail, with all values
> measured by your pool test strips.
They are notoriously inaccurate and in my experience
useless.
tra...@optonline.net
Aug 10, 2012, 9:58:54 AM8/10/12
to
On Aug 9, 8:20 pm, gfretw...@aol.com wrote:
> On Thu, 9 Aug 2012 14:42:26 -0700 (PDT), "trad...@optonline.net"
> You have plenty of chlorine on the 2 bottle tester but the pool store
> can also test for "free" chlorine that is not locked up by the
> stabilizer.
Kurt indicated he was not seeing any chlorine, free or total. You
don't need the pool store to test for free
either. That can be done with a Taylor test kit, which,
IMO pool owners should have.
>I had it once and draining about 2 feet of water from the
> pool was the only fix.
> I backed off the tabs
Again, I agree that you can have problems where
free chlorine is not showing up. But it's my understanding
that excess stabilizer does not actually effect the
level of free or total chlorine or make either not
show up. My understanding is that free chlorine is
there, but CYA forms a weak bond to it and
hence inhibits it from working. Too much CYA and
you have chlorine it's just not as effective. Kind of
like the higher the PH the less effective chlorine
becomes. It's still there, measurable, just not as
effective as a sanitizer.
I use and make up any deficiency with liquid but
> usually it is not necessary. I always shock with liquid. (a 2.5 gallon
> jug once a week in the summer).
> I cut the chlorine by a third in the winter.
> Other than that I only use a little acid to keep the pH right.
> I am about 4-5 years without any chemical wars.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
> On Thu, 9 Aug 2012 14:42:26 -0700 (PDT), "trad...@optonline.net"
> can also test for "free" chlorine that is not locked up by the
> stabilizer.
Kurt indicated he was not seeing any chlorine, free or total. You
don't need the pool store to test for free
either. That can be done with a Taylor test kit, which,
IMO pool owners should have.
>I had it once and draining about 2 feet of water from the
> pool was the only fix.
> I backed off the tabs
Again, I agree that you can have problems where
free chlorine is not showing up. But it's my understanding
that excess stabilizer does not actually effect the
level of free or total chlorine or make either not
show up. My understanding is that free chlorine is
there, but CYA forms a weak bond to it and
hence inhibits it from working. Too much CYA and
you have chlorine it's just not as effective. Kind of
like the higher the PH the less effective chlorine
becomes. It's still there, measurable, just not as
effective as a sanitizer.
I use and make up any deficiency with liquid but
> usually it is not necessary. I always shock with liquid. (a 2.5 gallon
> jug once a week in the summer).
> I cut the chlorine by a third in the winter.
> Other than that I only use a little acid to keep the pH right.
> I am about 4-5 years without any chemical wars.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
tra...@optonline.net
Aug 10, 2012, 10:18:09 AM8/10/12
to
On Aug 10, 9:23 am, Kurt Ullman <kurtull...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> In article <k02rpr$j0...@speranza.aioe.org>,
> "Don Phillipson" <e...@SPAMBLOCK.ncf.ca> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > "Kurt Ullman" <kurtull...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> the bastards."-- Claire Wolfe- Hide quoted text -
it and how much, if any shows up? If it shows up,
does it last for a day or more or just a few hours?
I'd be targeting at least 20ppm since you're having
problems and suspect algae.
> In article <k02rpr$j0...@speranza.aioe.org>,
> "Don Phillipson" <e...@SPAMBLOCK.ncf.ca> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > "Kurt Ullman" <kurtull...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>
> - Show quoted text -
What chlorine level are you targeting when you shock
> - Show quoted text -
it and how much, if any shows up? If it shows up,
does it last for a day or more or just a few hours?
I'd be targeting at least 20ppm since you're having
problems and suspect algae.
Message has been deleted
tra...@optonline.net
Aug 10, 2012, 12:31:41 PM8/10/12
to
On Aug 10, 12:14 pm, gfretw...@aol.com wrote:
> On Fri, 10 Aug 2012 09:23:19 -0400, Kurt Ullman <kurtull...@yahoo.com>
> sell at the grocery store) That should clear it up.
Bleach at the grocery store is typically 6%. Don't know
what you have where you are, but all the pool stores here
have 12%. I would target 20 ppm of chlorine. How much
he needs and of what depends on the size of the pool.
>
> Before you do that, be sure your pH is right and check total
> alkalinity as mentioned above.- Hide quoted text -
> On Fri, 10 Aug 2012 09:23:19 -0400, Kurt Ullman <kurtull...@yahoo.com>
> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> >In article <k02rpr$j0...@speranza.aioe.org>,
> > "Don Phillipson" <e...@SPAMBLOCK.ncf.ca> wrote:
>
> >> "Kurt Ullman" <kurtull...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>
>
>
>
>
> >In article <k02rpr$j0...@speranza.aioe.org>,
> > "Don Phillipson" <e...@SPAMBLOCK.ncf.ca> wrote:
>
> >>news:tfOdnX_UjajnjrnN...@earthlink.com...
>
> >> > Thanks. I used almost $500 of shock and chlorine last month and still
> >> > wasn't able to get the chlorine up where it needed to be and pool has
> >> > been cloudy. After multiple shocks, one time double shock three days in
> >> > a row, with little increase in free or total chlorine, this is the
> >> > latest guess.. er suggestion.
>
> >> You are obviously getting poor advice at the pool supply store.
> >> Unless you can find a competent pool store, better open a thread
> >> here describing the colour problem in detail, with all values
> >> measured by your pool test strips. You probably need to adjust
> >> pH and total alkalinity as well as chlorine levels. Another likely
> >> cause is a defective filter or dirt particles so fine they are not
> >> trapped in the filter.
>
> >The color is white and cloudy. I haven't been able to see the main
> >drain, but I have a fountain running about half way down the pool and I
> >can see the hose to that all the way through.
>
> I would dump in 5 gallons of liquid chlorine (20%, not the 10% they
>
> >> > Thanks. I used almost $500 of shock and chlorine last month and still
> >> > wasn't able to get the chlorine up where it needed to be and pool has
> >> > been cloudy. After multiple shocks, one time double shock three days in
> >> > a row, with little increase in free or total chlorine, this is the
> >> > latest guess.. er suggestion.
>
> >> You are obviously getting poor advice at the pool supply store.
> >> Unless you can find a competent pool store, better open a thread
> >> here describing the colour problem in detail, with all values
> >> measured by your pool test strips. You probably need to adjust
> >> pH and total alkalinity as well as chlorine levels. Another likely
> >> cause is a defective filter or dirt particles so fine they are not
> >> trapped in the filter.
>
> >The color is white and cloudy. I haven't been able to see the main
> >drain, but I have a fountain running about half way down the pool and I
> >can see the hose to that all the way through.
>
> sell at the grocery store) That should clear it up.
Bleach at the grocery store is typically 6%. Don't know
what you have where you are, but all the pool stores here
have 12%. I would target 20 ppm of chlorine. How much
he needs and of what depends on the size of the pool.
>
> Before you do that, be sure your pH is right and check total
> alkalinity as mentioned above.- Hide quoted text -
Message has been deleted
tra...@optonline.net
Aug 10, 2012, 5:41:52 PM8/10/12
to
On Aug 10, 1:43 pm, gfretw...@aol.com wrote:
> On Fri, 10 Aug 2012 09:31:41 -0700 (PDT), "trad...@optonline.net"
> My pool store has 20% in their bulk tanks. (commercial grade)
> The 5 gallons is based on a typical 15k gallon home pool.
>
> That was what it took to clean mine up from the "milky" problem a few
> years ago
>
> I am not sure what you use to test up to 20PPM. Any pool test kit I
> have seen will saturate at 4-5 PPM.- Hide quoted text -
put enough chlorine in so that if it was just pure water
with 0 chlorine he'd end up with 20ppm.
If you want to test to higher levels with the typical
test kit you can take 1/4 pool water, 3/4 bottled
or distilled water. Test it and multiply the result
by 4. Or 1/8 and multiply by 8 etc. For me it's
good enough to see it turn brown with one drop
of test solution. Then you know it's way above
the normal range.
With 5 gallons of 20% chlorine he'd take a 15,000 gallon
pool to 70ppm, assuming nothing eats up some of
it. I probably wouldn't go quite that high,
but putting more in up front is generally agreed to
be better for problems like this than doing a little
at a time. I've heard pros recommend 40ppm for
algae problems. So, I think we're on the same
page. One thing for sure, with a 5 gallons of
12 or 20% chlorine he'd get a lot of chlorine,
shock the hell out of it and it wouldn't cost
much at all.
When I was first learning about pools, one of
the first things I learned was how expensive it
can get when you take a trip to the local pool
store and do what they say. It was "You need
30 lbs of Balance Pack 200", You need 25 lbs
of Super Shock Z, and so it goes. When you
learn what the chemicals are, it gets cheap
fast. Just put two bags of baking soda
totaling 25lbs from Costco in last week.
That cost a whopping $14. At the pool store,
it would be 3 or 4X that.
> On Fri, 10 Aug 2012 09:31:41 -0700 (PDT), "trad...@optonline.net"
> The 5 gallons is based on a typical 15k gallon home pool.
>
> That was what it took to clean mine up from the "milky" problem a few
> years ago
>
> I am not sure what you use to test up to 20PPM. Any pool test kit I
> have seen will saturate at 4-5 PPM.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
He doesn't need to test up to 20ppm. I just meant
> - Show quoted text -
put enough chlorine in so that if it was just pure water
with 0 chlorine he'd end up with 20ppm.
If you want to test to higher levels with the typical
test kit you can take 1/4 pool water, 3/4 bottled
or distilled water. Test it and multiply the result
by 4. Or 1/8 and multiply by 8 etc. For me it's
good enough to see it turn brown with one drop
of test solution. Then you know it's way above
the normal range.
With 5 gallons of 20% chlorine he'd take a 15,000 gallon
pool to 70ppm, assuming nothing eats up some of
it. I probably wouldn't go quite that high,
but putting more in up front is generally agreed to
be better for problems like this than doing a little
at a time. I've heard pros recommend 40ppm for
algae problems. So, I think we're on the same
page. One thing for sure, with a 5 gallons of
12 or 20% chlorine he'd get a lot of chlorine,
shock the hell out of it and it wouldn't cost
much at all.
When I was first learning about pools, one of
the first things I learned was how expensive it
can get when you take a trip to the local pool
store and do what they say. It was "You need
30 lbs of Balance Pack 200", You need 25 lbs
of Super Shock Z, and so it goes. When you
learn what the chemicals are, it gets cheap
fast. Just put two bags of baking soda
totaling 25lbs from Costco in last week.
That cost a whopping $14. At the pool store,
it would be 3 or 4X that.
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