WD-40 in yard light sockets.
Dave
for several years.
They require a long extension ladder to get to them.
I'm afraid that the threads in the sockets will be a bit corroded.
Can I spray WD-40 into the sockets, let it sit for a while and then
install the bulbs?
Thanks,
Dave
dpb
> I have to outdoor light fixtures (four sockets) that have been empty
> for several years.
> I'm afraid that the threads in the sockets will be a bit corroded.
Think? :)
> Can I spray WD-40 into the sockets, let it sit for a while and then
> install the bulbs?
You can, but it would be far better unless they're in better shape than
one would expect to do a good job of cleaning them up first. I tend to
use the automotive-style dielectric grease (like you find in tail light
fixtures, etc.) in outdoor sockets to minimize the inevitable corrosion.
--
Jeff Wisnia
Yes you can....And it won't do any harm...
Whether it will do any good is the question...
Prepare yourself for having to replace all the sockets, that may be
easier than trying to get rid of the corrosion they may have suffered.
they're not all that expensive, and when you install the new bulbs go to
an auto supply store and get a tube of "dielectric grease" to smear
liberally on the bulb bases to avoid their bases getting corroded into
the sockets.
HTH,
Jeff
--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.
jJim McLaughlin
Think about it. What use is perfuemed pressurized keroscene? I won't
stay in place, it will drip out. It provides zeopotetion aganist
additional
corrosion and will have at best an ephemeral effetc on the
threads in terms of getting a new bulbinstalled.
Go to an auto parts supply store and getconductive bulb grease or
spark plug boot grease.
Lube the bulb threads well with that beore inserting new bulb.
If you have corrosion on the socket threads, TURN OFF THE POWER.
Thoroughly sand the socket threads and the center "button" at the
base of the socket with 180- 200 grit paper.
Think about replacing the socket if its really badly corroded, and use
the conductive bulb or spark plug boot grease on bulbs in the new
sockets.
And always use the big "rubber" / neprene / whatever washer with the
bulbs. Its not perfect but it does hepl reduce the moisture that
gets into the sockets.
dpb
...
> WD-40 is highly flammable!
Flammable, but not "highly" -- I routinely have used it on rusted
threads w/ a oxy-acetylene torch -- it flares up a little and smokes but
doesn't go "boom"...
It just isn't have a great deal of help for what OP's problem(s) most
likely are...
--
dpb
> On Fri, 15 Jun 2007 13:57:52 -0500, dpb <no...@non.net> wrote:
>
>> Charlie Morgan wrote:
>> ...
>>
>>> WD-40 is highly flammable!
>> Flammable, but not "highly"
>
> front in large type, and the word flammable right next to it?
>
> The MSDS lists it as level 4 (severe fire hazard)
The label says "flammable" not "highly flammable", right? :)
All I'm saying is what I know from experience--
--
kool
"jJim McLaughlin" <jimm.cl...@comcast.com> wrote in message
news:ItidnU_96tXqQu_b...@comcast.com...
I hope you mean NON-conductive grease.Wait... that doesn't compute
either.Conductive = dead short. Non-conductive might reduce electrical
contact.
jJim McLaughlin
I meant exactly what I said.
Unfortunatly, you don't have very good reading comprehension.
dpb
> "jJim McLaughlin" <jimm.cl...@comcast.com> wrote in message
> news:ItidnU_96tXqQu_b...@comcast.com...
>> Dave wrote:
>>> I have to outdoor light fixtures (four sockets) that have been
>>> I'm afraid that the threads in the sockets will be a bit
>>> corroded. Can I spray WD-40 into the sockets, let it sit for a
...
>> to an auto parts supply store and getconductive bulb grease or
>> spark plug boot grease.
>>
>> Lube the bulb threads well with that beore inserting new bulb.
...
> I hope you mean NON-conductive grease.Wait... that doesn't compute
> either.Conductive = dead short. Non-conductive might reduce
> electrical contact.
Yes, he did mean that. "Dielectric" grease is the trick...
It works by filling air space and contact is still metal to metal for
the conduction path...
From the product description for a Permatex product--others are similar...
Permatex Dielectric Tune-Up Grease is a silicone dielectric compound
used to insulate, lubricate and protect electrical fittings. It protects
against salt, dirt, moisture intrusion and stray current in electrical
connections.
Dielectric grease extends bulb and housing life of navigation lights,
masthead electrical connections, trailer lighting and harness or any
electric connections exposed to moisture and the elements. Prevents
voltage leakage around any electrical connector thereby insuring a
strong spark in high energy engine ignition systems.
--
dpb
> On Fri, 15 Jun 2007 14:08:38 -0500, dpb <no...@non.net> wrote:
>
>> Charlie Morgan wrote:
>>> On Fri, 15 Jun 2007 13:57:52 -0500, dpb <no...@non.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Charlie Morgan wrote:
>>>> ...
>>>>
>>>>> WD-40 is highly flammable!
>>>> Flammable, but not "highly"
>>> Go read the label, you know the one that has the word DANGER on the
>>> front in large type, and the word flammable right next to it?
>>>
>>> The MSDS lists it as level 4 (severe fire hazard)
>> The label says "flammable" not "highly flammable", right? :)
>>
>
>
> It's EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE (all in caps)
...
See, I said it wasn't "highly" flammable... :)
Can't you tell someone is (mostly) funnin' ya'? :)
Although I have used it as described although I do the spraying before
lighting the torch. It really doesn't even flare up good, mostly just
smokes and sputters a little. The propellant is long gone, by the time
one gets the torch lit, of course...
--
dpb
>>> Go to an auto parts supply store and getconductive bulb grease or
>>> spark plug boot grease.
...
>> I hope you mean NON-conductive grease.Wait... that doesn't compute
>> either.Conductive = dead short. Non-conductive might reduce electrical
>> contact.
>
> I meant exactly what I said.
Well, I stuck up for ya' in another response, but if that is what you
meant, you're under a (fairly common) misconception. "Boot" or "bulb"
grease(s) are actually dielectric (silicone, usually) greases, _not_
conductive. As kool wondered, if they were actually conducting in a
bulb socket, for example, they would provide a path from hot to neutral,
an undesirable "feature" when power is switched on.
The grease doesn't conduct, the connection relies on mechanical contact
through the grease for the conduction path. See the product description
I posted for the Permatex product in the other response.
--
Pat
> On Fri, 15 Jun 2007 13:57:52 -0500, dpb <n...@non.net> wrote:
> >Charlie Morgan wrote:
> >...
>
> >> WD-40 is highly flammable!
>
> >Flammable, but not "highly"
>
> front in large type, and the word flammable right next to it?
>
> The MSDS lists it as level 4 (severe fire hazard)
The warning label on Ph increaser for swimming pools has all kinds of
labels on it. "Do not ingest", "If swallowed, call poison control",
etc. etc. etc.
It is baking soda.
Warning are some lawyer trying to get out of the next lawsuit. Yes
you should be careful, but WD-40 isn't too bad unless you're a 12-year-
old with a cigarette lighter.
Pat
>
> >>> Charlie Morgan wrote:
> >>> ...
>
> >>>> WD-40 is highly flammable!
> >>> Flammable, but not "highly"
>
> >> Go read the label, you know the one that has the word DANGER on the
> >> front in large type, and the word flammable right next to it?
>
> >> The MSDS lists it as level 4 (severe fire hazard)
>
> >The label says "flammable" not "highly flammable", right? :)
>
>
> It's EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE (all in caps)
>
>
> Here's the more detailed warning on the back of the can:
>
> Extremely Flammable. Keep Spray Away from: Heat, Sparks, Open Flame,
> heated surfaces, and any other sources of ignition.
>
> Disconnect electrical tools and appliances before spraying. Keep can
> away from electrical source or battery terminals.
>
> >All I'm saying is what I know from experience--
I have a potato cannon. I use an explosive propellant. You spray it
in, hit the sparker, and BOOM a potato goes flying a couple of hundred
yards. It is much more explosive than WD-40 (or else I would use
that).
It is hairspray.
If you think WD-40 is explosive, you'd better seek a ban on hairspray.
runsrealfast
who says its just 12 years olds that pull that trick?
Father Haskell
You know of a spudgun fuel *less* explosive than hairspray (actually,
the
butane propellant)? I can't get my cannon to fire without vaporizing
the
potato.
kool
Thanks for your observation Jim, Maybe a high quality lubricant like Loctite
copper base Anti sieze compound would work even better on YOUR light sockets
but I would advise against it.
Pat
Usually it is just 3 short bursts for a shot. A burst being just
enought get a spray -- maybe 1/4 seconds each.
You're sliding the potatos in like a muzzleloader, aren't you?
Jeff Wisnia
I've never encountered any truly conductive greases yet, though no doubt
they can be made.
I just stuck one ohmmeter probe down into the contents of my can of
Thomas & Betts "Koper-Shield" and touched the other probe to the metal
can. There was no discernable conductivity, even though the grease has a
distinctly copper color.
I think those kinds of "conductive greases" are loaded with finely
divided metal particles which become "conductors" when they are
compressed between two metal parts and the non conducting grease squirts
out.
I've used Koper-Shield on bayonet base automobile lamp bulbs for years
without any undue effects, but I've never applied it to a line voltage
bulb's base, nor do I think I'd try it. <G>
betsyb
--
BetsyB
"Pat" <gro...@artisticphotography.us> wrote in message
news:1181936694.5...@c77g2000hse.googlegroups.com...
HeyBub
>
> Actually I have a can right here. It's not "highly" flammable.
>
> It's EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE (all in caps)
>
> As if it wasn't flammable enough, the propellent is propane.
>
> Here's the more detailed warning on the back of the can:
>
> Extremely Flammable. Keep Spray Away from: Heat, Sparks, Open Flame,
> heated surfaces, and any other sources of ignition.
>
> Disconnect electrical tools and appliances before spraying. Keep can
> away from electrical source or battery terminals.
>
Aw, come on! They're just saying that to protect themselves from nusiance
lawsuits. No big deal.
Jeff Wisnia
Aquanet has killed at least one woman who was stupid enough to ignore
the "Do not puncture or incinerate" warning on the spray can:
http://www.freerepublic.com/focus/f-news/1547132/posts
My curious mind wanted to find out how the lawsuit came out, and when I
couldn't Google anything more about it I posted to misc.legal.moderated
and let the legal eagles have a go at it. The most they were able to
find out is that the case is "still pending" and a defense montion to
dismiss it was denied.
DerbyDad03
> On Fri, 15 Jun 2007 14:08:38 -0500, dpb <n...@non.net> wrote:
> >> On Fri, 15 Jun 2007 13:57:52 -0500, dpb <n...@non.net> wrote:
>
> >>> Charlie Morgan wrote:
> >>> ...
>
> >>>> WD-40 is highly flammable!
> >>> Flammable, but not "highly"
>
> >> Go read the label, you know the one that has the word DANGER on the
> >> front in large type, and the word flammable right next to it?
>
> >> The MSDS lists it as level 4 (severe fire hazard)
>
> >The label says "flammable" not "highly flammable", right? :)
>
>
> It's EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE (all in caps)
>
> As if it wasn't flammable enough, the propellent is propane.
>
> Here's the more detailed warning on the back of the can:
>
> Extremely Flammable. Keep Spray Away from: Heat, Sparks, Open Flame,
> heated surfaces, and any other sources of ignition.
>
> Disconnect electrical tools and appliances before spraying. Keep can
> away from electrical source or battery terminals.
>
>
>
>
> - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
-- Actually I have a can right here. It's not "highly" flammable.
--
-- It's EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE (all in caps)
--
-- As if it wasn't flammable enough, the propellent is propane.
My can of WD-40 says "Combustible' on the front and Do not use near
heat, fire or flames on the back. Of course, my can doesn't contain
any propellent either. So I'm guessing your EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE is due
to the propellent.
Save yourself some money - Buy WD-40 in the gallon can (about $12):
http://images.lowes.com/product/061536/061536430013.jpg
and buy a couple of these spray bottles ($3.29):
http://mbeacon.mydoitbest.com/webconnect/imagerequest.php?sku=575402&size=1
Or any spray bottle that can be used with petroleum products. I have
three of the ones pictured above and I just refill them as needed.
$20 spent on bulk WD-40 and a couple spray bottles will last you a lot
longer than $20 spent on WD-40 in the standard spray cans.
Smitty Two
Charlie Morgan <*@*.com> wrote:
> >
>
> Except that a regular aerosol can of WD40 lasts me about 15-20 years!
>
> CWM
You're not using enough of it. You should be putting several tablespoons
in your keyboard once a week or so to keep the keys from sticking,
adding it to your lawnmower gas instead of 2-cycle oil, and your wife
should put a 1/4 cup or so in the washing machine to get the grass
stains out of the kids' pants, and also it's great for polishing
silverware.
Max
<prest...@earthlink.net> graced this newsgroup with:
and here I thought it was only good for cooking.
HeyBub
> You're not using enough of it. You should be putting several
> tablespoons in your keyboard once a week or so to keep the keys from
> sticking, adding it to your lawnmower gas instead of 2-cycle oil, and
> your wife should put a 1/4 cup or so in the washing machine to get
> the grass stains out of the kids' pants, and also it's great for
> polishing silverware.
And, evidently, if used with sufficient caution, can substitute for charcoal
starter fluid or as a bad-neighbor removal tool.
DerbyDad03
Here's why I buy it by the gallon:
We all know you really only need 2 tools -
If it's supposed to move but it doesn't, use WD-40.
It it not supposed to move but it does, use duct tape.
Now, how many of you know that WD-40 is great for removing the residue
that duct tape leaves behind when you finally get around to fixing all
those things you taped up?
Father Haskell
Well, yeah. Isn't compression a necessary part of the equation?
BTW, Dixie cups make perfect blanks for a 2" PVC barrel. Sometimes,
you just want to make noise to raise the dead.
Stormin Mormon
Withe apologye toe Dane Quaylee whoe putse ane extrae lettere one
potatoe.
--
Christopher A. Young
You can't shout down a troll.
You have to starve them.
.
"Pat" <gro...@artisticphotography.us> wrote in message
news:1181936694.5...@c77g2000hse.googlegroups.com...
:
: I have a potato cannon. I use an explosive propellant. You
:
Stormin Mormon
--
Christopher A. Young
You can't shout down a troll.
You have to starve them.
.
"Charlie Morgan" <zi...@szwim.com> wrote in message
news:m6n573hfc2ruk73md...@4ax.com...
:
: WD-40 is highly flammable!
:
:
Stormin Mormon
--
Christopher A. Young
You can't shout down a troll.
You have to starve them.
.
"Charlie Morgan" <zi...@szwim.com> wrote in message
news:ajo573lfb04emr828...@4ax.com...
:
: Go read the label, you know the one that has the word DANGER on
:
:
Pat
I don't really compress it. I slide it in first. It does create one
heck of a seal, though. But I've never made french fries with it.
The spud goes out in one piece. I got "the long way" on the potato so
it's a good, solid hunk of flying flesh.
I've often thought about putting some sort of groove in the barrel so
I can get some rotation on it. they it would REALLY fly.
JimR
"DerbyDad03" <teama...@eznet.net> wrote in message
news:1182045285.2...@w5g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
[snip]
>
> We all know you really only need 2 tools -
>
> If it's supposed to move but it doesn't, use WD-40.
> It it not supposed to move but it does, use duct tape.
>
> Now, how many of you know that WD-40 is great for removing the residue
> that duct tape leaves behind when you finally get around to fixing all
> those things you taped up?
>
Aha, thanks for the reminder -- I was just trying to figure out how to get
the tape residue off an outdoor preformed pond, where I had duct-taped the
underlayment to the pond to make backfilling easier!
mm
wrote:
>
>>Although I have used it as described although I do the spraying before
>>lighting the torch. It really doesn't even flare up good, mostly just
>>smokes and sputters a little. The propellant is long gone, by the time
>>one gets the torch lit, of course...
>
>No problem. I just want to make sure that the whole story gets told. I
>doubt you could initiate the China Syndrome with even a large can of
>the stuff. <G>
There was a fad for a while of lighting the spray from hair spray. In
college I somehow ended up with a used can of hairspray and I tried
it. It was sort of scary.
Father Haskell
Compression's easy. Taper the inside end of the barrel slightly with
a piece of 100 grit sandpaper, so it punches out the spud
correspondingly
oversize.
> I've often thought about putting some sort of groove in the barrel so
> I can get some rotation on it. they it would REALLY fly.
Range would be the same, accuracy would be better.
I've seen rifled PVC barrels sold online for just this purpose. Not
cheap, though. I wonder if you couldn't glue in a loose spiral-wound
piece of wire pulled from a bit of Romex for the same effect. Hope
it stays in after the third shot ;-)
Could you cut fins from cardboard and install them into the spud
at a slight helical pitch to add spin?