Deck: What size/type of bolts...
Jimmy
Jim
Charles
either side:
6x6 Post 5 1/2"
2x10 1 1/2"
2x10 1 1/2"
Total 8 1/2"
Therefore if I am NOT going to countersink the heads of the bolts I use two
5/8 x 10" galvanized bolts. If I'm countersinking one side I go down to a
5/8 x 8". Note that 3/4" bolts would work just as well.
Charles Ledbetter
C-Squared Fine Deckbuilding
Raleigh, NC
"Jimmy" <jch...@REMOVElook.ca.delete> wrote in message
news:c1Zi7.34191$f01.9...@news3.rdc1.on.home.com...
Dan Hicks
>
> ...does one use to build up 2x10 and 2x8 deck beams?
16d galvanized nails, clinched.
--
Dan Hicks
It's not the load that breaks you down - it's the way you carry it.
Wally Wilson
in compression mode and won't depend on the fasteners to be holding up the
deck.
--
Wally Wilson
Outdoor Designs Unlimited, Inc.
http://www.outdoordesigns.net
Jimmy <jch...@REMOVElook.ca.delete> wrote in message
news:c1Zi7.34191$f01.9...@news3.rdc1.on.home.com...
Charles
it. I like the idea behind it and it works well on paper, but in practice
it often doesn't work out so well.
With the 2x beams bolted on the outside of the post I can easily adjust the
height of each beam section to account for the variances in P.T. lumber. I
have found that the decks I've build with the bolted beams as opposed to the
beams on top are coming out quite a bit better as far as plumb, level, and
square go. I adjust the beam so the top edge is dead on level with the
ledger board and tack it with the framing nailer. Once all the beams are
level with the ledger and each other, I come back and bolt them through. It
is a bit more work, but I think it's ultimately worth the effort.
Charles Ledbetter
C-Squared Fine Deckbuilding
Raleigh, NC
"Wally Wilson" <wwi...@ismi.net> wrote in message
news:3b8e...@news.ismi.net...
NoOneYouKnow
bolt through method where the 2xs are on opposite sides of the post. In the
words of my building inspector, "that gives you two 2x beams instead of one
4x beam." The 2x beams must be glued and screwed to each other and then
placed either on top of the post, or if the post is big enough, in a notch
deep enough to support the whole beam (e.g., if you have a 6x6 post
supporting a beam made of two 2xs you can notch it.)
Of course in MN, we have a significant snow load to deal with, whereas in NC
you folks are probably more worried that the thing will fly away in a
hurricane.
---JRE---
"Charles" <cledb...@nc.rr.com> wrote in message
news:fzrj7.203709$J37.51...@typhoon.southeast.rr.com...
Renata
This would be my preferred method but for that little glitch. i.e.
there is hardware (Simpson, et.al., fits over post and has opposing
'flanges' for beams, but they don't go up high enough) for this but it
isn't made for larger members like 2x10s, etc.
Renata
On Thu, 30 Aug 2001 08:27:18 -0400, "Wally Wilson" <wwi...@ismi.net>
wrote:
Dan Hicks
piece of wood to one side of the post and beam (or maybe both sides).
At the very least tie straps should be used.
--
Dan Hicks
Experience without theory is blind, but theory without experience is
mere
intellectual play. --Immanuel Kant
Wally Wilson
after it is cut to the correct height We tie the plate down with 6" lag
screws and adhesive. The beams (usually 2 pieces of 2 X 10) are separated by
a piece 2 by scrap giving you a 4 1/2" "footprint" and a very stable
structure. If you want to be very careful you can use steel angles to secure
the top plat to the post and the beam to the top plate. In fact in tornado
and hurricane country I would recommend it.
--
Wally Wilson
Outdoor Designs Unlimited, Inc.
http://www.outdoordesigns.net
Renata <Renata...@honeywell-tsi.com> wrote in message
news:3b8fa414....@news.newsguy.com...
Dan Hicks
>
> We cut a piece of 2X10 to 9 1/2" long and lay that flat on top of the 6X6
> after it is cut to the correct height We tie the plate down with 6" lag
> screws and adhesive. The beams (usually 2 pieces of 2 X 10) are separated by
> a piece 2 by scrap giving you a 4 1/2" "footprint" and a very stable
> structure. If you want to be very careful you can use steel angles to secure
> the top plat to the post and the beam to the top plate. In fact in tornado
> and hurricane country I would recommend it.
What we did for our deck roof was to cut a piece of 5/8" decking into
the post top, and then attach the roof beams on either side of that.
--
Dan Hicks
Persistent people begin their success where others end in failures. E.
Eggelston
Charles
This is starting to get pretty silly here guys. It's easy, and fairly
typical for Internet newsgroup discussions to degrade into a series of
"one-upmanship" after a while and I think we're there. Pretty soon, someone
is going to come along in here and say the only way to really build a deck
beam is with 4'x4' brick and mortar piers and steel I-beams. Now it's easy
to sit back and say "I'd recommend that" because it's not your time and
money that's involved.
So, let's try to pull this back into some semblance of reality. We all know
that we have to consider the time and expense involved with any project and
there comes a point where you're just throwing money away.
My favorite method of attaching the beam to the post is bolting two 2x10's
on either side of a 6x6 post with two 5/8" or 3/4" x11" galvanized hex
bolts. Someone here poo pooed that because of a fear of snow load. Let's
take a look at that idea. The notion here is that a lot of snow on the deck
would weigh enough to cause a structural failure in my beam. Since it must
be related to how the beam is built we can assume that the failure is a
result of the bolts shearing off and letting the beam fall. Think about
this, guys. Don't get emotional and just look at the physics involved here.
How much snow would it take to shear off 8 or 10 or 12 3x4" hex bolts? I'm
not a structural engineer but I would venture that if you had this much snow
on your deck, the roof of your house is already in the living room and the
deck is the least of your worries.
Someone here likes to nail two 2x10's together and set them on top of the
6x6 posts. That works just as well. I don't like doing that because it's
too hard to keep the tops of the beams dead level with themselves, the other
beams, and the ledger board. You end up standing there with a chisel or a
belt sander trying to knock down the high spots so your joists won't wobble
up and down.
Someone else likes to dado the 6x6 post and set the beams in pockets on
either side. That works too, looks great, but is labor intensive.
There are lots of ways to do this and they're all fine. I think we need to
make sure our recommendations are reasonable though.
Charles Ledbetter
C-Squared Fine Deckbuilding
Raleigh, NC
"Dan Hicks" <danh...@ieee.org> wrote in message
news:3B90E662...@ieee.org...
Wally Wilson
My reluctance to bolt beams onto posts is related to the propensity of
carbon steel to corrode. As that occurs the strength of the fasteners begins
to decrease quickly. That is where the structure will fail. In other words
... what is holding up the deck are the fasteners and eventually they will
rust away and down she comes.
--
Wally Wilson
Outdoor Designs Unlimited, Inc.
http://www.outdoordesigns.net
Charles <cledb...@nc.rr.com> wrote in message
news:2t9k7.214391$J37.54...@typhoon.southeast.rr.com...
Charles
Point taken. The bolts could potentially rust over time to the point of
failure. I always spray my decks regularly with Wolman's and enough of the
stain covers the bolts to keep them from rusting. That stuff seems to stay
oily on bolts and fasteners.
There are always numerous ways of doing things like this and they're all OK.
It comes down to experience and preference.
Charles
"Wally Wilson" <wwi...@ismi.net> wrote in message
news:3b91...@news.ismi.net...
Dan Hicks
sag over time.
--
Dan Hicks
One measure of the character of a man is what he chooses for his
obsessions.
NoOneYouKnow
news:2t9k7.214391$J37.54...@typhoon.southeast.rr.com...
> My favorite method of attaching the beam to the post is bolting two 2x10's
> on either side of a 6x6 post with two 5/8" or 3/4" x11" galvanized hex
> bolts. Someone here poo pooed that because of a fear of snow load.
I never meant to poo poo anything by mentioning snow load. I only said that
your chosen method of construction is against the building codes in MN, at
least in the half-dozen or so jurisdictions I have had the pleasure of
working with. I only mentioned snow load as one possible reason why. If it
works in NC, so be it.
> Let's
> take a look at that idea. The notion here is that a lot of snow on the
deck
> would weigh enough to cause a structural failure in my beam. Since it
must
> be related to how the beam is built we can assume that the failure is a
> result of the bolts shearing off and letting the beam fall.
Or the failure of the wood.
> Think about
> this, guys. Don't get emotional and just look at the physics involved
here.
> How much snow would it take to shear off 8 or 10 or 12 3x4" hex bolts?
I'm
> not a structural engineer but I would venture that if you had this much
snow
> on your deck, the roof of your house is already in the living room and the
> deck is the least of your worries.
Let's see: say 10'x12' deck, with 60" of nice, wet March snow on it. That
much snow is equivalent to anywhere from 6" to 30" of liquid water. Since we
are designing for load we'll go towards the high side and say its equivalent
to 24" of liquid water (which also happens to make the math easier.) Now
we have 240 cubic feet of water. There are approximately 7.5 gallons per
cubic foot, at 8 lbs per gallon. So our total load is 240 x 7.5 x 8 = 14400
lbs. Its like having 80 of your closest friends over for a barbeque. Even
if it was only half that, it would still be a huge load. That's static load,
it doesn't account for motion at all. This would make me nervous no matter
how the beam was designed.
Roofs tend to be overbuilt around here as well. Generally, however, house
roofs are sloped to shed excess snow, and some people still have problems.
Flat roofs are regularly cleared of snow in bad years, and those that aren't
do cave in from time to time.
---JRE---