PVC pipe as dryer vent

[tbust...@attbi.com]

I need to run about 16ft of 4" pipe to vent an electric dryer. Is it ok to
use PVC pipe. Seems like it would be easier to work with than the sheet
metal stuff.

Thanks,

Tony

[Dementia]

No, it is not acceptable.

[Eric Tonks]

I have reasoned that if PVC and ABS pipe can be used as a vent for high
efficiency furnaces it would be reasonable to use the rigid pipe for an
electric dryer vent, also because flexable PVC pipe can be used for dryers.

I had problems with metal piping clogging with wet lint every 3 to 4 months,
requiring disassembly to clean out. I tried the PVC plastic pipe, and it
worked great. The lint does not stick and clog it up, and standard fittings
make the installation easy. I included a couple of clean-outs for potential
cleanings but have not had to do it in about 10 years. It seems that the
plastic keeps the heat in and prevents moisture from condensing on the
inside of the pipe and trapping lint.

I have had no problems with this system, but I would not recommend it for a
gas dryer.

<tbust...@attbi.com> wrote in message
news:Q52Da.558034$Si4.5...@rwcrnsc51.ops.asp.att.net...

[Joe Bobst]

<< Is it ok to use PVC pipe. >>

Only if permitted by your local building codes.

<< it would be easier to work with than the sheet metal stuff. >>

Not really. It's a lot lighter and easier to secure in place, but the sections
are shorter so you need more of them. Better use metal IMO.

Joe

[Colbyt]

<tbust...@attbi.com> wrote in message
news:Q52Da.558034$Si4.5...@rwcrnsc51.ops.asp.att.net...

You have three other replies that span the range. My best estimation is
that if permitted by your local codes, go for it. It is here and I plan to
do the next one that I have to replace in this manner. If that cheap
plastic flex stuff can handle a dryer there is absolutely no reason a
quarter inch of PVC can't.

[Tom Pendergast]

On 03 Jun 2003, Colbyt wrote:
> <tbust...@attbi.com> wrote...

>> I need to run about 16ft of 4" pipe to vent an electric dryer.
>> Is it ok to use PVC pipe. Seems like it would be easier to work
>> with than the sheet metal stuff.

> You have three other replies that span the range. My best estimation
> is that if permitted by your local codes, go for it. It is here and I
> plan to do the next one that I have to replace in this manner. If
> that cheap plastic flex stuff can handle a dryer there is absolutely
> no reason a quarter inch of PVC can't.

My thouhts exactly. The vinyl/plastic stuff that's not a whole
lot thicker than a good trash bag holds up to that heat, it will
not be a problem for PVC.

But then again (might as well tell this story and beat the trolls
to the punch) I thought PVC would work on my water heater too.
I tried one piece as a very controlled experiment, watching
constantly for any signs of melting or burning. The naysayers on
the HVAC board reamed me a new one, and still do to this day,
but the piece held up for over 6 months without a trace of trouble.
-Finally- 7 or 8 months down the road, I inspected it as per
normal, and there was a 3/4" hairline scorch mark on the inside
of the elbow. End of experiment. But judging by the moaning and
groaning from the jackass HVAC wizhurds, you would have thought
I shot the pope.

But yes, on the list of fall projects: replace that filthy, beat
up white flexi-vinyl stuff with PVC. Couple of lint cleanouts,
and I'm all set.

TP
--
Character is doing the right thing when nobody's looking.
There are too many people who think that the only thing
that's right is to get by, and the only thing that's
wrong is to get caught. - Congressman J.C. Watts

[KenKM]

You'll never "get it" until you succeed in incinerating yourself.

[Tom Pendergast]

On 03 Jun 2003, KenKM wrote:

> You'll never "get it" until you succeed in incinerating yourself.

(I wrote)
You can snip all you want, you can't hide the truth:

>> I tried one piece as a very controlled experiment, watching
>> constantly for any signs of melting or burning.

Kind of shoots down your entire theory, doesn't it?

[Ric]

<tbust...@attbi.com> wrote in message
news:Q52Da.558034$Si4.5...@rwcrnsc51.ops.asp.att.net...

Have you reviewed the installation instructions provided by the
manufacturer?
This offering will be based on the unit's design.
A high efficiency unit will send it's heat to the drum, where it should be.
This means that the outgoing air temperature is safe to send through PVC or
ABS instead of metal.
PVC and ABS have very different behaviors under heat-
PVC wilts and bends, losing structural stability
ABS releases poisonous gas from it's expanded foam core........ kind of a
reason to care.
(these are high-heat examples probably not found in a clothes dryer)

I accepted the manual's recommendation to use ABS, but made some mistakes.
The pipe is cramped where it exits the wall into the attic, so every time
the dryer is used the expansion of the pipe causes popping and groaning in
the ceiling.Just weird, and easily fixable.

[Art Begun]

Remember you want no internal joints to catch lint.

<tbust...@attbi.com> wrote in message
news:Q52Da.558034$Si4.5...@rwcrnsc51.ops.asp.att.net...

[Colbyt]

"Tom Pendergast" <non...@yinzguys.com> wrote in message
news:Xns938FDC4CDBD...@130.133.1.4...

> On 03 Jun 2003, KenKM wrote:
>
> > You'll never "get it" until you succeed in incinerating yourself.
>
> (I wrote)
> You can snip all you want, you can't hide the truth:
>
> >> I tried one piece as a very controlled experiment, watching
> >> constantly for any signs of melting or burning.
>

Tom,

There is a lot of difference in using PVC for a dryer and using it on the
top of a water heater.

One is code approved in many areas and the other is approved nowhere.

[abl...@hotmail.com]

Polyvinyl Chloride or PVC is a flammable material with a melting point of 160 degrees C. Melting begins at about 140 degrees C. The building code does not allow PVC piping to be used as a dryer vent because it can catch fire at fairly low temperatures. The Uniform building code is written for safety considering the worst case scenario...like when the vent pipe gets blocked....a child shoves a Coke can into the vent...etc. PVC is used on some high efficacy furnaces and water heaters because the exhausting gasses are cool by the time the get to the PVC pipe. Please don'the risk burning your house down by using dryer vent materials that are not code approved and US approved for dryer vent use.
Allen Blaker
Building inspector for 31 years.

[Oren]

On Thu, 25 Feb 2016 12:50:34 -0800 (PST), abl...@hotmail.com wrote:

>Allen Blaker
>Building inspector for 31 years.

Isn't that special.

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

Building inspector or home inspector??

[DerbyDad03]

I guess he wasn't confident enough to answer that question when it was
originally asked.

He had only been a Building Inspector for 18 years at that point.

[Paint...@unlisted.moo]

If PVC pipe is so flammable, what about those dryer vent hoses they sell
that are nothing but a coil of steel wire with a very thin plastic on
the outside? I could see those going up in flames long before Sch 40
PVC.

I once bought a dryer that came with one of them, and I did not use it.
I used metal pipe.

[Ralph Mowery]

<Paint...@unlisted.moo> wrote in message
news:8u4vcb959ufp80fhe...@4ax.com...

>>
> If PVC pipe is so flammable, what about those dryer vent hoses they sell
> that are nothing but a coil of steel wire with a very thin plastic on
> the outside? I could see those going up in flames long before Sch 40
> PVC.
>
> I once bought a dryer that came with one of them, and I did not use it.
> I used metal pipe.
>

Didn't they quit using them for that reason and went to metal pipe.

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

Pl;astic "drier vent" is not UL or CSA approved for drier use. It is
bad trouble just waiting to happen.

[Paint...@unlisted.moo]

Maybe they did quit selling them... I dont know????
I always use metal, and it's been many years since I had to connect a
dryer vent.
I hope they did quit selling those plastic things. Not only were they a
fire hazzard, but they would break after a few years and make a big
mess, if you didn't notice it immediately.

[Nil]

On 25 Feb 2016, Paint...@unlisted.moo wrote in alt.home.repair:

> I hope they did quit selling those plastic things. Not only were
> they a fire hazzard, but they would break after a few years and
> make a big mess, if you didn't notice it immediately.

I just replaced mine about a year ago. The plastic one lasted maybe 10
years and was never a problem. It never got hot enough to melt or catch
fire. I replaced it with a metal foil one that seems more likely to get
torn or otherwise damaged.

This is the length of flexible tubing between the drier and the vent
proper. The actual vent is sturdy metal within the ceiling space.

[Ed Pawlowski]

On 2/25/2016 8:35 PM, Paint...@unlisted.moo wrote:

>>> If PVC pipe is so flammable, what about those dryer vent hoses they sell
>>> that are nothing but a coil of steel wire with a very thin plastic on
>>> the outside? I could see those going up in flames long before Sch 40
>>> PVC.
>>>
>>> I once bought a dryer that came with one of them, and I did not use it.
>>> I used metal pipe.
>>>
>>
>> Didn't they quit using them for that reason and went to metal pipe.
>>
>
> Maybe they did quit selling them... I dont know????
> I always use metal, and it's been many years since I had to connect a
> dryer vent.
> I hope they did quit selling those plastic things. Not only were they a
> fire hazzard, but they would break after a few years and make a big
> mess, if you didn't notice it immediately.
>
>

They still sell them for venting bathroom fans and the like. They make
good grease protectors on the tie bars of a molding machine.

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

Flex of any sort for a drier vent should be outlawed. Aluminum duct
work, taped and glued, not screwed, is best. (screws protruding into
the duct grab any lint passing by, and block the duct)

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

Mine has solid duct fastened to the side of the drier (it was
convertible from back to side vent)) and up about 6 feet to thewall
mounted vent..
I've foaught too often with flex hoses.

[TimR]

I can see why they do it, though, where my dryer sits there's no way to get behind it and connect anything rigid.

[burfordTjustice]

On Thu, 25 Feb 2016 23:17:31 -0500
cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:

> I've foaught too often with flex hoses.

Pretty liberal oriented of you, because you don't
want to nobody should be allowed to.

Tsk Tsk!

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

On Fri, 26 Feb 2016 05:30:41 -0800 (PST), TimR <timot...@aol.com>
wrote:

You can't fasten rigid duct to the drier, up t above the top of the
drier, then connect the rest of the duct after it is pushed into
place??? You just have to think "outside of the box" once in a while.

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

No, because the stuff is USELESS it should not be used. There is a
much greater chance of a drier vent fire when flex ducting is used.

[Micky]

On Thu, 25 Feb 2016 17:57:36 -0600, Paint...@unlisted.moo wrote:

>On Thu, 25 Feb 2016 18:12:08 -0500, cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:
>
>>On Thu, 25 Feb 2016 13:34:49 -0800, Oren <Or...@127.0.0.1> wrote:
>>
>>>On Thu, 25 Feb 2016 12:50:34 -0800 (PST), abl...@hotmail.com wrote:
>>>
>>>>Allen Blaker
>>>>Building inspector for 31 years.
>>>
>>>Isn't that special
>>
>>Building inspector or home inspector??
>
>If PVC pipe is so flammable, what about those dryer vent hoses they sell
>that are nothing but a coil of steel wire with a very thin plastic on
>the outside? I could see those going up in flames long before Sch 40
>PVC.

Metal pipe would be good, but my house came with a hose like you
describe. Would have required moving the dryer (and probably not
being able to put it all the way back) and the washer, and attaching
the other end up between the floor joists. Plus I had loads of
other things to do to the house.

So I left it and I've been using it for 33 years. Last year the
vinyl got a hole so I leaned a towel over the hole

Oh, I never put the heat on hotter than the lowest heat, the one just
above no heat, because I think high heat is bad for the shirts and the
elastic and maybe everything else.

But it's definitely not clogged. Some people have pieces of lint
hanging from the outside, but I have none of that. I clean the lint
filter regularly (it whistles if I don't) and I like polyester so
maybe I don't make much lint.

[Micky]

What about pop rivets?

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

On Sat, 27 Feb 2016 00:15:56 -0500, Micky <NONONO...@bigfoot.com>

Even short pop rivets protrude into the duct, but a real short rivet
is better than a screw.. The rounded end of even a longer rivet isn't
as bad as a sharp sheet metal screw tip - but is not the best idea.

[bob_villain]

On Friday, February 26, 2016 at 11:38:03 PM UTC-6, cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:

> >What about pop rivets?
> Even short pop rivets protrude into the duct, but a real short rivet
> is better than a screw.. The rounded end of even a longer rivet isn't
> as bad as a sharp sheet metal screw tip - but is not the best idea.

...and the small tapered end of each section should face toward the outside, or lint will catch at the connection.

[bob_villain]

On Friday, February 26, 2016 at 11:12:57 PM UTC-6, Micky wrote:

> Oh, I never put the heat on hotter than the lowest heat, the one just
> above no heat, because I think high heat is bad for the shirts and the
> elastic and maybe everything else.

Flue temp would most likely not be affected by drum temp...just the duration of the burn would be shorter.

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

That , I assumed, was a "given" - ductwork is ALWAYS installed "into"
the "downstream" part.by default. The duct out of the trier fits
"over" the stub, and you just keep going. You'd almost have to TRY to
do it wrong - but then again - - - - -

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

That is certainly true of a gas drier - they are not sophisticated
burners by any stretch of the imagination - and electric driers , for
the most part, have only a cycling switch to control temperature as
well. SOME higher end units MAY have a 2 or 3 stage heat control -
with the element tapped either in the center for 2 stage, or
off-center for 3 stage. 2 stage would be off, half, or full. 3 stage
wouuld be off, small "half", Large "half" or bothI am not aware of any
current electric drier using either method of heat control.

[Tekkie®]

cl...@snyder.on.ca posted for all of us...

pecker checker

--
Tekkie

[Micky]

Yes. However the temperature in the drum is controlled, the air
exhausted from an electric drier comes from the drum, along with the
humidity evaporating from the clothes -- that's what makes it a
clothes drier -- and output temperature, from the machine and from the
house, is directly related to the temperature in the drum. It will
never be hotter than the temperature in the drum.

[bob haller]

I replaced some of that plastic line with a thin wire in it because it was supposed to be a fire hazard....

curious about how well it would burn i took a piece and tried lighting it on fire with a grill lighter.

it refused to burn how wierd.

so i tried setting it on fire with my mapp gas torch.

it did not burn. it would smoke, but not catch on fire.......

[Micky]

On Sat, 27 Feb 2016 15:04:47 -0800 (PST), bob haller <hal...@aol.com>
wrote:

Good to know.

I think I smell something. I'll get back to you.

Although actually, I thought it was the not-totally smooth nature of
the plastic tubing with the wire in it that was supposed to catch
lint, and that the lint is what would catch on fire. ?? Even though
it is pretty smooth. I would think the lint would blow right by the
wire parts, which are covered with vinyl.

After about 10 years, I bought a 6" box with a flap in it, that would
direct the exhaust air to the outside in the summer and to the inside
in the winter (assuming I moved the flap) so I cut the hose then, and
I didn't look at the whole hose, but at the open ends and I saw no
lint. Again when the tear happened, I looked inside and saw no lint.
But I mostly rely on never running the drier above warm.

I suppose most lint would be just as it comes out of the drier and
bends upwards.

I mentioned that my drier broke a couple months ago. Maybe a bearing.
maybe just something loose and banging when the drum rotates. I've
been drying my clothes on the shower bar, but eventually I will pull
the drier away from the wall, for the first time, to fix it. I'll
check for lint then. I might even replace the hose.

[kempshomea...@gmail.com]

On Thursday, February 25, 2016 at 3:50:38 PM UTC-5, abl...@hotmail.com wrote:
> Polyvinyl Chloride or PVC is a flammable material with a melting point of 160 degrees C. Melting begins at about 140 degrees C. The building code does not allow PVC piping to be used as a dryer vent because it can catch fire at fairly low temperatures. The Uniform building code is written for safety considering the worst case scenario...like when the vent pipe gets blocked....a child shoves a Coke can into the vent...etc. PVC is used on some high efficacy furnaces and water heaters because the exhausting gasses are cool by the time the get to the PVC pipe. Please don'the risk burning your house down by using dryer vent materials that are not code approved and US approved for dryer vent use.

> Allen Blaker
> Building inspector for 31 years.

melting point of pvc is higher than that if it melted ay 120 you gould not use it for you hot water in your house

[Frank]

PVC is only good to 140 deg F. You are talking about CPVC or
chlorinated PVC which is used in hot water pipes. CPVC is good up to
200 deg F. These are not melting points but glass transition points
where the polymer softens and becomes flexible but does not melt.

I had what was probably a PVC coated flexible drier vent and was told by
a repairman that it did not meet code. I replaced it with flexible
metal tubing.

[RosemontCrest]

1) The post to which you replied is more than four years old.
2) 140 degrees C is 284 degrees F. Is your water heater set to 140
degrees C?

[micky]

In alt.home.repair, on Sun, 17 May 2020 15:08:57 -0700 (PDT),

kempshomea...@gmail.com wrote:

>On Thursday, February 25, 2016 at 3:50:38 PM UTC-5, abl...@hotmail.com wrote:
>> Polyvinyl Chloride or PVC is a flammable material with a melting point of 160 degrees C. Melting begins at about 140 degrees C.

C = Centigrade, or Celsius as the hippies like to call it.

140/5 = 28, x 9 = 252, + 32 = 284 Fahrenheit.

> The building code does not allow PVC piping to be used as a dryer vent because it can catch fire at fairly low temperatures. The Uniform building code is written for safety considering the worst case scenario...like when the vent pipe gets blocked....a child shoves a Coke can into the vent...etc. PVC is used on some high efficacy furnaces and water heaters because the exhausting gasses are cool by the time the get to the PVC pipe. Please don'the risk burning your house down by using dryer vent materials that are not code approved and US approved for dryer vent use.
>> Allen Blaker
>> Building inspector for 31 years.
>
>melting point of pvc is higher than that if it melted ay 120 you gould not use it for you hot water in your house

120 F.

[gfre...@aol.com]

On Sun, 17 May 2020 15:08:57 -0700 (PDT),
kempshomea...@gmail.com wrote:

You can't.
You have to use CPVC, a different plastic compound. I have never seen
4" CPVC but I suppose someone might make it. You just don't find it at
the Home Depot.

[gfre...@aol.com]

Regular white PVC will get soft enough to bend in boiling water. I
have done it many times.

[RosemontCrest]

Yes, I was referring to the previous claim of 140 and 160 degrees C.

[Clare Snyder]

People used to use flexible plastic "duct" for dryers - the stuff
with the wire coil in it. I've seen it wherer basically only the coil
was left intact - with the plastic melted right out. That crap hasn't
been legal for likely 30 years or more (if it ever was) and I'm sure
it has caused more than one dryer fire.
Bending PVC works from 170 degrees up to about 220. Any hotter it
gets way too soft and looses shape.(all temperatures in "Yankee"
degrees)

[gfre...@aol.com]

On Sun, 17 May 2020 20:51:01 -0400, Clare Snyder <cl...@snyder.on.ca>

I have done it with conduit more than plumbing pipe but other than
color and U/V additives, it is the same stuff. One tip, slip a cold
connector over the end as soon as you remove it from the heat if you
did immerse the end in the hot water (or in the tail pipe of the
truck). Then it will retain the shape and size while you are making
the bend. Douse it with water to hold what you have.

[micky]

In alt.home.repair, on Sun, 17 May 2020 20:51:01 -0400, Clare Snyder

<cl...@snyder.on.ca> wrote:

>
>>
>>Regular white PVC will get soft enough to bend in boiling water. I
>>have done it many times.
> People used to use flexible plastic "duct" for dryers - the stuff
>with the wire coil in it. I've seen it wherer basically only the coil

My house came with that. Counting the 4 years before I got here, it
lasted about 30 years until a rip appeared just above the dryer. I
leaned a towel against the rip to keep te air in and it lasted another 5
years. After that, I had to replace it.

[kelown]

> People used to use flexible plastic "duct" for dryers - the stuff
> with the wire coil in it. I've seen it wherer basically only the coil
> was left intact - with the plastic melted right out. That crap hasn't
> been legal for likely 30 years or more (if it ever was)

Isn't PVC wire hosing still used for portable air conditioner exhaust?
https://amzn.to/3bIAw2U (hose with wire reinforcement)

[Clare Snyder]

On Sun, 17 May 2020 23:20:57 -0500, kelown <kel...@privacy.invalid>
wrote:

Portable AC exhaust isn't hot.

[kelown]

>>> People used to use flexible plastic "duct" for dryers - the stuff
>>> with the wire coil in it. I've seen it wherer basically only the coil
>>> was left intact - with the plastic melted right out. That crap hasn't
>>> been legal for likely 30 years or more (if it ever was)
>>
>> Isn't PVC wire hosing still used for portable air conditioner exhaust?
>> https://amzn.to/3bIAw2U (hose with wire reinforcement)

> Portable AC exhaust isn't hot.

Obviously. But my question was referring to the material the hose is
made of, to help determine whether such hose material is still being
legally sold.

[Frank]

CPVC I heard is brittle. Guy here had replaced his copper plumbing with
it and told me he was working near some of it under the sink and grabbed
it to position himself and it broke.

Most PVC we see is plasticized to make less brittle.

Regardless of the softness or melting point there is a fire hazard using
it in a drier vent as a fire in the vent would break out. Most plastics
could not handle a fire in the vent.

The stuff I had, a PVC coated spring got full of lint because birds were
getting in the vent and nesting. If the cat had not jumped to the top
of the drier hearing the birds we might not have known it and a fire
could have started. I had cleaned the tubing and the vent but it was
afterwards that an appliance repairman told me my old piping was out of
code. If we had a fire we could have a problem with insurance covering it.

Might mention I put a cage over the old vent flaps to keep out birds.

Many years ago we rented a house with drier in the basement and vent was
at ground level. A rabbit crawled into the vent and got dried to death.
Took a couple of days to get a repairman. We did not know about the
rabbit but just knew the drier was not working. Weather was warm and by
the time the repairman got there the rabbit was full of maggots. Hell
of a mess and odor in drier would not leave.

[Clare Snyder]

On Mon, 18 May 2020 01:05:52 -0500, kelown <kel...@privacy.invalid>
wrote:

What's that got to do with the price of brown eggs in idaho on
even-numbered Tuesdays???
The thread was about DRYER VENTS

[gfre...@aol.com]

On Mon, 18 May 2020 08:22:15 -0400, Frank <fr...@frank.net> wrote:

>CPVC I heard is brittle. Guy here had replaced his copper plumbing with
>it and told me he was working near some of it under the sink and grabbed
>it to position himself and it broke.
>
>Most PVC we see is plasticized to make less brittle.

This is the land of plastic plumbing and we also use PVC for lots of
other things. Sunlight will make it more brittle after a while but it
is still not glass. I have gopher tortoise burrow markers made from
3/4" PVC that have been out in Florida the sun for over a decade and
they still bend. CPVC doesn't seem to be affected any more than PVC
but if you are worried about it, use RNC (gray conduit). It is UV
stabilized.

[Frank]

I know that PVC holds up well in sunlight. Went through this issue a
couple of years ago discussing a Trex deck. Trex is coated with PVC
because the original PE is not sunlight resistant.

I've been told by plumbers over the years that copper does not hold up
with our well water and neighbors have replaced it with CPVC and PEX. So
the CPVC comment is only from one neighbor. The PEX neighbor had
numerous leaks at the fittings.

I was 20 years ago with a pinhole leak in the copper that the plumber
recommended replacement but I have not had another leak since.

I have also since replaced the plumber.

On the original subject, we were addressing building codes. They do
change over the years and have additions to them.

[Rod Speed]

"Frank" <fr...@frank.net> wrote in message
news:r9ujqf$2i5l$1...@esteban.tulanet.com...

> On 5/18/2020 1:53 PM, gfre...@aol.com wrote:
>> On Mon, 18 May 2020 08:22:15 -0400, Frank <fr...@frank.net> wrote:
>>
>>> CPVC I heard is brittle. Guy here had replaced his copper plumbing with
>>> it and told me he was working near some of it under the sink and grabbed
>>> it to position himself and it broke.
>>>
>>> Most PVC we see is plasticized to make less brittle.
>>
>> This is the land of plastic plumbing and we also use PVC for lots of
>> other things. Sunlight will make it more brittle after a while but it
>> is still not glass. I have gopher tortoise burrow markers made from
>> 3/4" PVC that have been out in Florida the sun for over a decade and
>> they still bend. CPVC doesn't seem to be affected any more than PVC
>> but if you are worried about it, use RNC (gray conduit). It is UV
>> stabilized.
>>
>
> I know that PVC holds up well in sunlight. Went through this issue a
> couple of years ago discussing a Trex deck. Trex is coated with PVC
> because the original PE is not sunlight resistant.
>
> I've been told by plumbers over the years that copper does not hold up
> with our well water and neighbors have replaced it with CPVC and PEX. So
> the CPVC comment is only from one neighbor. The PEX neighbor had numerous
> leaks at the fittings.
>
> I was 20 years ago with a pinhole leak in the copper that the plumber
> recommended replacement but I have not had another leak since.

There was a problem with pinholes in copper made in the early 70s
I've seen it in two houses built at that time

[Frank]

I suspected something like that. Probably more of mechanical defects in
pipes rather than the copper itself. Only leaks I have had since were
in two shut off valves, also probably defective.

[Peeler]

On Tue, 19 May 2020 04:48:30 +1000, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:

<FLUSH the trolling senile asshole's latest trollshit unread>

--
John addressing the senile Australian pest:
"You are a complete idiot. But you make me larf. LOL"
MID: <f9056fe6-1479-40ff...@googlegroups.com>