Vinyl weatherstripping sticks to painted door

[Art]

I painted our wood front door using a white satin latex paint over a primer.
2 months later I installed Frost King vinyl/aluminum weather-stripping. I
adjusted the weather-stripping so that it was just touching the front door.
The next day I found it difficult to open the door because the vinyl stuck
to the door! When I finally got the door opened I noticed some of the paint
had stuck onto the vinyl. I readjusted the weather-stripping to make less
of a contact, but this did not help. Obviously the paint had been dry since
2 months elapsed. I removed this weather-stripping and am about to
reinstall new weather-stripping, but I want to prevent this kind of problem
from reoccurring.
Some people suggested I put something like Vaseline on
the vinyl to prevent this but that doesn't seem right. Others suggested
repainting the door with an oil based paint. Any suggestions?

[Hamm4fun]

I cant imagine the latex not being dry. I would clean the vinyl real good and
maybe try some talcum power on it if anything. No grease please. Could just be
moisture making it stick.

[TinMan1332]

>
>I cant imagine the latex not being dry. I would clean the vinyl real good and
>maybe try some talcum power on it if anything. No grease please. Could just
>be
>moisture making it stick.

It's more likely a problem called "blocking" which is the tendency for objects
to stick to latex paints even after dried and cured. Some latex and acrylic
paints are worse than others for having this problem.

There is a larger weatherstripping, which has a "?" shape (and inserts into a
3/32" slot in a wood stop molding) not only seals better but resists sticking
caused by blocking. Since this type of stripping is friction fit into the wood
stop, replacement is a snap should damage or a problem occur (simply pull out
the old and press in the new). One can also make their own wood stop molding of
any profile and then cut the slot for the stripping on a table saw or router
table... the stripping is sold seperatly from the stop molding.

TinMan

[Chris Tafoya]

The paint you used for your door is most likely a softer acylic latex designed
to be flexible, thus it sticks to your vinyl. So, try a harder acrylic latex,
perhaps a bathroom or kitchen paint (but make sure its 100% acrylic)...or better
yet, call your local paint manufacturer, ask for the lab, and tell them your
problem...

[The tool man]

Hi Art:

Your paint is dry, but too soft. I had a similar problem with the
windows in my house. The latex paint on the sash would stick to the
vinyl sash guides, making them difficult to open. Amazingly, it stuck
well enough to actually break off small pieces of wood from the sash.
I would try consulting a local paint dealer for recommendations on a
different type of paint for the door. Don't use vaseline.

Regards,
John.

--
The right tool for the job is in your head.

Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.

[Paul Broussard]

Art wrote:
>
> Some people suggested I put something like Vaseline on
> the vinyl to prevent this but that doesn't seem right. Others suggested
> repainting the door with an oil based paint. Any suggestions?

As JP said, some waterbased paints are worse than others with this
problem. A light coating of oil (3 in 1 or silicon spray) on the vinyl
will stop it. Remember to degloss the door the next time you paint it,
though, to remove the oil from the painted surface.

I've seen many different types of weatherstripping over the years, and
the type you describe is one of the worse as far as keeping a good seal
over the years. My favorites are the brass or copper strips that fit in
the casing, sealing the door sides. Although the ones JP likes are
pretty good, too.

--
Broussard Paint Contractors, friend of Bill's
"careful, we might learn from this"- Calvin

[marsh...@gmail.com]

Dust the weather stripping thoroughly with baby powder. I tried every other thing mentioned on the internet and nothing worked. Even silicone spray failed. It never got sticky again and I did some painting in August when it was very hot outside.

[Oren]

On Wed, 3 Sep 2014 13:17:28 -0700 (PDT), marsh...@gmail.com wrote:

>Dust the weather stripping thoroughly with baby powder. I tried every other thing mentioned on the internet and nothing worked. Even silicone spray failed. It never got sticky again and I did some painting in August when it was very hot outside.

Paint in thinner coats, so it cures faster. The WS sticks mostly
because folks may use "one coat is best" when two thin coats are
better. It "skins over" - to thick, the paint will not cure as fast
or as well and leaves none cured paint underneath. It feels dry but
can still be none-cured on a thicker coat.

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

With some paints and some weatherstrips it doesn't matter how thin
you put it on, or how long you let it cure - the paint and the
weatherstrip develop an attraction for each other. A dusting of talcum
powder solves the problem, at least for a few months.
Eventually the paint, the weatherstrip, or both, lose the attraction,
an is no longer a problem.

[Oren]

On Wed, 03 Sep 2014 17:38:03 -0400, cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:

> With some paints and some weatherstrips it doesn't matter how thin
>you put it on, or how long you let it cure - the paint and the
>weatherstrip develop an attraction for each other. A dusting of talcum
>powder solves the problem, at least for a few months.
>Eventually the paint, the weatherstrip, or both, lose the attraction,
>an is no longer a problem.

Thanks. I never read about using talcum to prevent sticking.

[nestork]

No, it's the kind of paint that was used. I don't have time right now,
but I will post the reason why some paints remain slightly tacky even
when they're fully dried. Hopefully I'll be able to do that tonight.




--
nestork

[nestork]

nestork;3279670 Wrote:
> No, it's the kind of paint that was used. I don't have time right now,

> but I will post the reason why people sometimes have problems like this
> after painting with a latex paint. Hopefully I'll be able to do that
> tonight.

Latex primers and paints in North America are predominantly made from
one of two different kinds of plastic:

1. Polyvinyl acetate, or PVA, which you probably know better as white
wood glue. PVA resins are used to make general purpose primers as well
as budget priced interior latex paints. Within the paint industry, PVA
resins are called "Vinyl Acrylic" resins, so if you see "contains vinyl
acrylic resins" or "contains vinyl acrylic copolymers", that tells you
that the product is made with PVA plastic.

2. Polymethyl methacrylate, or PMMA, which you probably know better as
Plexiglas or Lucite or Perspex, depending on who made the plastic. PMMA
resins are used to made ALL exterior latex paints, most high quality
interior latex paints and primers for fresh concrete because PMMA has
much better alkali resistance than PVA. Within the paint industry, PMMA
resins are called "100% Acrylic" resins. So, if you see that wording on
a gallon can of paint, it simply means that the paint is made from PMMA
plastic. There are literally thousands of PMMA resins used to make
everything from floor finishes to paints to water based wood stains and
"varnishes" to grout and masonary sealers to nail polish for the
ladies.

3. About 10 percent of the interior latex paints you'll find will use
styrenated acrylic resins. These have high gloss but poor UV
resistance, so they're only used for interior latex paints. These kinds
of paints are much more popular in Europe than in North America. My
understanding is that Sherwin Williams "ProClassic" interior latex paint
uses styrenated acrylic resins.

NOTE: PVA and PMMA resins are never "mixed" to make paints that have
both kinds of resins in them. This is because the coalescing solvents
and additives used in paints to make them stick well, spread well and
form a proper film over a broad range of application conditions will
work best with one kind of plastic resin or another. So combining
different plastic resins throws a monkey wrench into the process of
formulating the paint. In some cities, the city collects all kinds of
unwanted latex paint and mixes them together to make a latex paint they
sell back to the public at cost. While these paints might form a proper
film under ideal conditions, they'd be more likely to be problematic
when painting under cold, humid or hot conditions.

Basically, when it comes to paint, PMMA resins are superior to PVA
resins in that they:
a) stick to damp surfaces better
b) they form a harder, more protective film
c) they form a film that's more acid, alkali and UV resistant
d) they form a film that's more resistant to moisture.

The only advantage to PVA resins is that they're less expensive to buy,
so they're the resin of choice for making wood and drywall primers where
you don't need high hardness, acid, alkali or UV resistance because the
primer will be protected from those things by the top coat of paint.

The disadvantage of PVA resins is that they have low moisture resistance
and low "blocking" resistance. In paint terminology, "blocking" is the
tendancy of a paint to remain slightly sticky even after it's fully dry.
If you've ever rested your head against a wall, and found that your
hair stuck to the wall, that wall was painted with a PVA resin paint.

These disadvantages aren't a problem in primers because the primer is
top coated with a paint, so the primer generally isn't exposed to
moisture and isn't in contact with anything else.

The problems arise when you use interior PAINTS that are made with PVA
resins.

The poor moisture resistance of PVA paints manifests itself most
frequently when these kinds of paints are used in bathrooms. The result
will be the paint cracking and peeling on the bathrom ceiling and high
up on the walls where the humidity is highest. Invariably, the cracking
and peeling of the paint will be mis-diagnosed as the result of poor
prep work prior to painting, and this is exasperating to the homeowner
that did the painting because he knows he preped the walls and ceilings
as well as he possibly could prior to painting. Really, the problem is
that he painted with an inexpensive paint made with PVA resins instead
of PMMA resins. If he had used a better paint, the cracking and peeling
most likely wouldn't have happened, especially if he had used a paint
specifically meant for bathrooms, like Zinsser's PermaWhite Bathroom
Paint. That's because anyone making a paint specifically meant for
bathrooms will pick a resin that's got excellent resistance to moisture
and humidity.

The poor blocking resistance of PVA paints manifests itself most
frequently when people paint doors and windows with these kinds of
paints. Because PVA paints have low blocking resistance, they remain
slightly sticky even when they're fully dry. High humidity exasperates
the problem by making the paint film soften. The result is that doors
painted with an interior PVA paint will often stick to the door frames
which are most often painted with the same paint. The doors will stick
and be hard to open. Similarily, double hung windows painted with PVA
paint with stick to each other and be hard to open and close.

In both cases, on the bathroom walls and ceiling, and on interior doors
and painted windows, the fix is easy. Simply paint over the PVA paint
with a PMMA paint to correct the problem.

I fully expect the problem with the door weather stripping sticking to
the door frame is caused by the paint used on the door frame. Painting
over the door frame with a better quality interior latex paint should
correct the problem.

Hope this helps.




--
nestork

[hrho...@sbcglobal.net]

N. E. Stork's explanation is GREAT!

[nestork]

You can learn more than you need or want to know about latex paints at
the Rohm & Haas "Paint Quality Institute" web site.

'Paint Quality Institute - Painting information and resources for home
interiors and exteriors' (http://www.paintquality.com/)

The Paint Quality Institute was established and is funded by the Rohm &
Haas Company to teach architects, professional painters and paint
consumers (presumably people who drink paint) about the benefits of
using top quality latex paints. Part of that was the publication of
several brochures that were available free of charge in paint stores
across North America:

'Continuing Education Requirements for painting tips and advice - Paint
Quality Institute' (http://tinyurl.com/o9ve2su)

Download and read:

"The Ingredients of Paint and Their Impact on Paint Properties"

and, if you're interested in the pigments used to give paint colour and
opacity,

"How Colour is Affected by the Ingredients of Paint".

If you read and understand the first of these two brochures, you'll know
more about latex paint than 95% of the people working in paint stores.

Dr. Otto Rohm was the first chemist to cast polymethyl methacryate
(PMMA) into sheets, and he called that plastic "Plexiglas". The company
he formed with Mr. Otto Haas in Germany originally manufactured a
synthetic chemical for tanning leather. Haas moved to Philadelphia to
establish the company in the United States, and with the outbreak of
WWII, the Rohm & Haas Company manufactured Plexiglas canopies for both
American and German warplanes. The Rohm & Haas Company was the largest
manufacturer of acrylic resins used to make latex paints, acrylic floor
finishes, grout and masonry sealers and nail polish in North America
until 2009 when they were purchased by the Dow Chemical Company.




--
nestork

[BenignBodger]

While that may be true in some situations it is not a universal truth. I
put new vinyl weatherstripping on my front door which had not been painted
in all the years I've owned the house since the door is protected from sun
and weather and was in excellent condition. The vinyl stuck to the 14+
year-old paint quite effectively and after over a year it still sticks and
'pops' every time I open the door.

[Gordon Shumway]

On Thu, 4 Sep 2014 01:55:20 +0200, nestork
<nestork...@diybanter.com> wrote:

>
>Latex primers and paints in North America are predominantly made from
>one of two different kinds of plastic:
>

<Snip>

>
>Basically, when it comes to paint, PMMA resins are superior to PVA
>resins in that they:
>a) stick to damp surfaces better
>b) they form a harder, more protective film
>c) they form a film that's more acid, alkali and UV resistant
>d) they form a film that's more resistant to moisture.
>

<More Snippage>
>

Excellent post. Thank you.

[ssru...@gmail.com]

My understanding is that the vinyl in the weather strip reacts with the latex paint. (Read this on several other sites). Solution is to use a silicon rubber weather strip. It won't stick to the latex paint.

[Ed Pawlowski]

On 11/16/2014 1:45 AM, ssru...@gmail.com wrote:
> My understanding is that the vinyl in the weather strip reacts with the latex paint. (Read this on several other sites). Solution is to use a silicon rubber weather strip. It won't stick to the latex paint.
>

I'd try spraying with silicone first. It may just need that once a year
or so. Or even wax.

[hrho...@sbcglobal.net]

Dust both surfaces with talcum powder, that will solve the problem easily and inexpensively.

[Oren]

On Sun, 16 Nov 2014 15:25:45 -0800 (PST), "hrho...@sbcglobal.net"
<hrho...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

>Dust both surfaces with talcum powder, that will solve the problem easily and inexpensively.

cornstarch may be cheaper...

.... or let the latex paint cure awhile... You lbs are funny.

[dps...@lexington1.net]

Dry shampoo (which sprays a very fine mist of talcum powder) works great. Spraying both sides that make contact, solved the problem for me.