Exterior painting - How do you paint the underside of horizontal surfaces?
Dan_Musicant
the underside of my roof overhangs, both at the eaves and running up the
side of the gables (between the gable rafters and the walls). Brush,
some kind of roller system, or spray? At the eaves, there are rafter
tails, and I assume I'll use a brush, but painting the bottom of the
soffitts with a brush seems like it would be a messy proposition, with
paint flowing down onto my hand. Is there a method of using a brush that
prevents this?
This area has 1x8 pine boards, some of which are unfinished (just had
roof replaced) and some with very uneven and old paint. I figure to
prime, probably with Tinman's formula, posted in this newsgroup back in
2001:
1). 75% Zinsser's Cover Stain or Pratt & Lambert Suprime.
2). 15% Flood's Penetrol.
3). 10% Naphtha.
4). Add Japan drier (at one ounce per quart).
5). Tint to tonal range of topcoat
I'm not sure what to do about the already painted surfaces. Maybe scrape
or fill or sand, I just don't know. I assume the existing paint has lead
content, since the exterior of this house hasn't been painted since the
1970's, maybe earlier, in all probability.
I'm wondering also how long I can delay painting after applying my prime
coat. Being color blind, I'm hesitant to decide on a color scheme. I
figure I'll probably use a Benjamin Moore acrylic exterior paint,
probably 3 colors - one for walls, one for window frame, another for
sash. Possibly, I'll use the window frame color for the rafters and
soffitt bottoms.
Thanks for any help.
Dan
m Ransley
Only get 1/2 of it wet and keep can used with only a little in the can,
dont dump your brush in it. Use a good brush. Roll what you can then
brush. Spray if you want but cover everything even the roof. It just
takes a bit of experiance. Primers should not go bare more than 6
months.
komobu
ripped it all off. I put up insulation board and then vinyl siding. I
also have a brick home with wood soffit. I ripped the wood out of the
overhangs and replaced with vinyl soffit material. It was an easy job
for the Do it yourselfer and I'll never have to paint it again! It can
also help with ventilation if you use the ventilated soffit material.
If you paint, you have to keep repainting every few years. I did this
to one of my homes 10 years ago and the other 7. They both look as good
now as when the job was first completed. I never regretted it. I would
deffinately do this to any home I ever own.
Just my two cents
Pat
Grandpa Dan
All homes here where I live have been built that way for years. Vinyl
windows,siding, perforated vinyl soffit, aluminum facia/eave trim-color
match, all rain gutters same no painting what so ever. There are many
available heritage colors available these days and the look and grain
texture resembles wood.
"komobu" <curr...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1134786641.9...@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
Tony Hwang
Hi,
Ever saw how well vinyl stands upto hail storm and fire? They fade too.
I'd rather pain than having vinyl siding. IMO, they look Ugly. Only
reason they use so much vinyl is, cost.
Tony
Grandpa Dan
small slit in a coffee can lid or Tupperware lid and poke the brush thru the
hole. Now the drips will go on the up turned lid and you can wipe it off
periodically.
good luck
"Dan_Musicant" <m...@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:i9d6q11vj8n51ijut...@4ax.com...
komobu
> Ever saw how well vinyl stands upto hail storm and fire? They fade too.
I dont think Paint stands up any better to Fire....and I have never
seen hail travel upwards and damage soffit...:-)
> I'd rather pain than having vinyl siding. IMO, they look Ugly. Only
> reason they use so much vinyl is, cost.
I think painting is much cheaper than vinyl if you are only
considdering painting one time versus installing vinyl. That being
said, I believe the reason vinyl is so common is because of its low
maintenance upkeep. As a home and the owner ages, it gets harder and
harder to climb up a ladder and paint. Try hiring someone to paint and
see how much it costs. I agree that some vinyl houses are ugly, but so
is clapboard. My main home is brick, and I wanted to go all vinyl on
the trim and soffit so I wouldn't have to paint every other year.
Take Care
Pat
Grandpa Dan
through and are guaranteed for life against fading. BTW wooden houses don't
stand up to fire either. They make matches out of wood don't they?news:1134817012.3...@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
Norminn
That's an interesting formula ... why the thinner? Is that a formula
for spraying? Seems it would make brushing more difficult. In painting
anything, especially a house, I would use brush only for edging and on
areas too small for roller. With little foam rollers, even the small
areas are sometimes a lot easier to do. For sure, you need to scrape
loose paint. Clean dust, chalking, mold, etc. As far as smoothing
edges of chipped or peeled paint, I probably would not bother. I hate
to sand, and would not use glossy paint on a house exterior. Easist way
to take care of those would probably be to prime them, then hit the
edges you can see with some paintable caulk, smooshed on with fingers.
If you can't see edges, they are not a problem.
As far as lead paint goes, use the appropriate mask for sanding or
torching, protective clothing that you can shake out and launder well,
and shop vac to get the chips so's you can dispose of them properly. If
you have a lot of chipped paint coming off during scraping or pressure
washing, lay down a roll of window screen .. catches most of it, can lay
it out to dry if pressure washed, and then just dump in garbage or haz
mat disposal.
Wayne Whitney
> I assume I'll use a brush, but painting the bottom of the soffitts
> with a brush seems like it would be a messy proposition, with paint
> flowing down onto my hand. Is there a method of using a brush that
> prevents this?
Most paints will be thick enough not to flow off the brush like that.
You only use 1/3 to 1/2 of the length of the bristles to carry the
paint. Of course, your proposed paint formula has some thinner, which
would make it flow more. I'm not sure if that's a good idea or not,
although if you're hoping to paint weathered wood without sanding it
perhaps it will help.
> I'm not sure what to do about the already painted surfaces. Maybe scrape
> or fill or sand, I just don't know. I assume the existing paint has lead
> content, since the exterior of this house hasn't been painted since the
> 1970's, maybe earlier, in all probability.
If there is lead paint, the proper thing to do is to use a chemical
stripper, or to use a mechanical tool that has a built in shroud to
collect all the dust, connected to a HEPA vacuum.
> I'm wondering also how long I can delay painting after applying my prime
> coat.
The advice I received from my local paint store was to put a flat top
coat on of a neutral color. It will be better protection than primer
only, and being flat, paint will stick to it better in six months. Of
course, you'll still have to wash it before repainting.
Cheers, Wayne
Dan_Musicant
:That's an interesting formula ... why the thinner?
I think the Naphtha speeds the drying is the reasoning. I would think
that this would be tough to brush on the underside of a horizontal
surface. It would be thin for that. Maybe OK for a roller of some kind.
Norminn
>>I'm wondering also how long I can delay painting after applying my prime
>>coat.
>
>
> The advice I received from my local paint store was to put a flat top
> coat on of a neutral color. It will be better protection than primer
> only, and being flat, paint will stick to it better in six months. Of
> course, you'll still have to wash it before repainting.
>
> Cheers, Wayne
>
IMO, it is a whole lot simpler to do both in same job. Many primers can
be painted over within hours, and getting it all done better for paint
and primer. Primers vary in length of time before painting; read label.
Doing the prep/cleanup twice makes more work.