Rubber Grip Screw Driver for Doing Electrical Work?

Jay Chan

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Jun 11, 2003, 11:29:28 AM6/11/03

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I would like to know whether we really need to use a screw driver that
has rubber covering its handle if we want to use that screw driver to
do some electrical work (such as replacing an outlet / a switch, or
adding a sub-panel).

I thought a screw driver with a plastic or wooden handle is good
enough (because I think they don't conduct electricity). But according
to DIY electrical-repair books, we are supposed to use a screw driver
that has a rubber-grip. Do I really need it?

I know a rubber-grip screw driver only costs $8 or less. We are not
talking about a lot of money here. But I am still curious to know why
a plastic or wooden handle is not good enough.

Thanks.

Jay Chan

John Gilmer

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Jun 11, 2003, 5:15:35 PM6/11/03

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"Jay Chan" <jayk...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:c7e5acb2.03061...@posting.google.com...

> I would like to know whether we really need to use a screw driver that
> has rubber covering its handle if we want to use that screw driver to
> do some electrical work (such as replacing an outlet / a switch, or
> adding a sub-panel).
>
> I thought a screw driver with a plastic or wooden handle is good
> enough (because I think they don't conduct electricity). But according
> to DIY electrical-repair books, we are supposed to use a screw driver
> that has a rubber-grip. Do I really need it?

Unless you really know what you are doing you should not let your
screwdriver tip touch anything that is electrically "HOT."

If there is a slight chance of "accidentally" touching a hot wire or screw
(e.g.: you are adding a circuit to your main panel and you don't want to
pull the main breaker) then you should use a plastic handle driver.

For "cold" wiring, use whatever driver fits the screw and is comfortable to
hold and use.

Tom Pendergast

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Jun 11, 2003, 5:27:31 PM6/11/03

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On 11 Jun 2003, Jay Chan wrote:

> I would like to know whether we really need to use a screw driver that
> has rubber covering its handle if we want to use that screw driver to
> do some electrical work (such as replacing an outlet / a switch, or
> adding a sub-panel).
>
> I thought a screw driver with a plastic or wooden handle is good
> enough (because I think they don't conduct electricity).

Any of the three should be fine, they're all non-conductive.
Maybe the rubber is the least conductive of the 3, but I wouldn't
lose any sleep over it. Besides, the key to it ALL is to have
the stuff dead while you're working on it, the conductivity of
the screwdriver should never be an issue!

TP
--
Character is doing the right thing when nobody's looking.
There are too many people who think that the only thing
that's right is to get by, and the only thing that's
wrong is to get caught. - Congressman J.C. Watts

Wade Lippman

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Jun 11, 2003, 7:41:30 PM6/11/03

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> Unless you really know what you are doing you should not let your
> screwdriver tip touch anything that is electrically "HOT."
>

Touching something hot is one thing, but trying to replace an outlet without
turning the power off first is idiotic (well, at least without a better
reason than I can think of)

Jay Chan

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Jun 12, 2003, 8:59:49 AM6/12/03

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> Any of the three should be fine, they're all non-conductive.
> Maybe the rubber is the least conductive of the 3, but I wouldn't
> lose any sleep over it. Besides, the key to it ALL is to have
> the stuff dead while you're working on it, the conductivity of
> the screwdriver should never be an issue!

Thanks for your confirmation, and the suggestions from other newsgroup
members that have responded.

I will definitely turn off the power breaker in the main panel before
I work on the outlet/switch...etc -- This is a given.

I am still puzzled by the recommendation in DIY electrical repair
books. The books want us to only use rubber-grip drivers, not even
plastic handle drivers. I guess the book authors may think that we may
work on the power outlet with live power still on, and they want to be
"better safe than sorry, let use the best stuff".

Jay Chan

JTM

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Jun 12, 2003, 10:13:35 AM6/12/03

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> Any of the three should be fine, they're all non-conductive.
> Maybe the rubber is the least conductive of the 3, but I wouldn't
> lose any sleep over it. Besides, the key to it ALL is to have
> the stuff dead while you're working on it, the conductivity of
> the screwdriver should never be an issue!

All wood handled screw drivers I've seen have a metal ferrule on the blade end
to prevent the wood from splitting. This would create a greater shock hazard as
compared to a fully insulated handle of plastic or rubber.

Regards,

John

Jeff Cochran

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Jun 12, 2003, 7:29:05 PM6/12/03

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In residential work there's probably not many good reasons, but
working hot is common in industrial environments where shutting off a
circuit stops production. Besides, the electric company doesn't flip
off the breaker for your neighborhood when they connect your
service... :)

Jeff

JTM

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Jun 13, 2003, 11:34:41 AM6/13/03

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> In residential work there's probably not many good reasons, but
> working hot is common in industrial environments where shutting off a
> circuit stops production. Besides, the electric company doesn't flip
> off the breaker for your neighborhood when they connect your
> service... :

Every pole mounted residential transformer I've looked at had a readily
accessable (with a hot stick) service breaker. When my brother had a licensed
electrician relocate the drop to his house he did it hot and managed to short
the line which burned to a crisp. The power company crew made some disparaging
remarks and of course my brother was billed for the replacement.

Regards,

John

Stumpy "Bill" Patterson

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Jun 13, 2003, 7:22:51 PM6/13/03

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"TrentŠ" wrote:

> Was that a typo? You said your 'brother' got billed for it.
>
> Have a nice week...
>
> Trent
>
> Help keep down the world population...have your partner spayed or
> neutered.

Geezus Cat-Eater.. There you go again. Now lamebrain Evans will be
over here sniffin your crotch for mistakes again..

JTM

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Jun 14, 2003, 3:05:36 PM6/14/03

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That's what he said. The electrician was a friend and offered to move it
gratis, but didn't offer to pay for the new drop. I guess you get what you pay
for.

Regards,

John

Tom Pendergast

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Jun 14, 2003, 3:18:03 PM6/14/03

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Keeeerist on a friggin' cross - ENOUGH!

Buy wood, rubber or plastic handles, they all insulate.

Anyone smart enough to know *WHY* you want rubber or wood *SHOULD*
be smart enough to realize that wood/plastic with a BIG ASSED PIECE
OF STEEL running through it and exposed at the top is not going to
satisfy the requirements.

Can we:

1) Stop analyzing the living shit out of things?

B) Give each other credit for some fundamental intelligence?

Thank yew!

Oscar_lives

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Jun 15, 2003, 11:00:35 AM6/15/03

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"Tom Pendergast" <non...@yinzguys.com> wrote in message
news:Xns939A9B79A60...@130.133.1.4...

>
> Keeeerist on a friggin' cross - ENOUGH!
>
> Buy wood, rubber or plastic handles, they all insulate.
>
>

> TP

WRONG Tommy. Not all wood, rubber, and/or plastic are insulators. Some are
VERY GOOD conductors.

HACK.

Thund3rstruck

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Jun 15, 2003, 5:03:51 PM6/15/03

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Oscar_lives rambled on about something in
<nS%Ga.208458$M01.92360@sccrnsc02>:

>
> "Tom Pendergast" <non...@yinzguys.com> wrote in message
> news:Xns939A9B79A60...@130.133.1.4...
>>
>> Keeeerist on a friggin' cross - ENOUGH!
>>
>> Buy wood, rubber or plastic handles, they all insulate.
>

> WRONG Tommy. Not all wood, rubber, and/or plastic are insulators. Some
> are VERY GOOD conductors.
>
> HACK.

And all the really good wooden handled ones I ahve seen either have the
metal shaft going thru the handle and out the back, and/or are varnished
with something that could easily be conductive. <G>

Best advice when working on electrical is:

1) have a good idea what you're doing
2) make sure the circuit is dead
3) even after #2, assume it's still live. <G>

NOI