Thanks...
Mike
If you hit a stud, no problem. If you don't his a stud, it will eventually
pull out of the sheathing and then you have holes left in the siding. Get a
hose reel that sits on the ground. Get a good one as the cheap ones are
frustrating to use and a waste of money. Triton makes the absolute best, but
are pricey.
What is the purpose of a hole in the hollow stem and how do you stop THAT
from from leaking?
The guys at Lowes never heard of such a thing.
Here is a picture to help you understand what I have...
http://mysite.verizon.net/bjkass123/bibhole.jpg
Thanks for any ideas of what it's for and how to fix.
Joy
--
BetsyB
"Joy" <Mycr...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:op.ts9at...@user-47b243c432.myhome.westell.com...
Hose reels that attach to the side of the house work fine, and don't pull
all over the place like bulky stand-alone reels. I've had 10-20 dollar ones
that last many years.
Use a stud finder to locate the 2x4's, mark with pencil, then do a 1/16th"
test drill to see if you get wood. If the pilot hole shows shavings, make
the hole the final size, and mount reel. Sometimes, if you are lucky,
mounting holes are spaced to fit typical stud spacing.
Roger
I've also never heard of a completely hollow valve stem. Usually, the hole
is tapped only deep enough to take the handle mounting screw. Are you sure
it is leaking through the hole, and not from the base of the stem where it
goes into the valve nut? May be easiest just to replace the hose bib valve,
if replacing the packing and replacing the handle does not do the trick.
Bib valves are fairly cheap.
Replacing would probably be difficult. It might be welded on the pipe. Do
any of these things get screwed on??? I don't want to risk making things
worse.
I can SEE the lower part of the screw through the hole in the stem and I'm
sure the water is leaking from this hole (probably squeezing past the
screw threads). WITHOUT the screw, the water squirts from the hole under
pressure. Caught me by surprise, it did.
I don't believe the hole is to relieve pressure since you can just open
the bib valve and do the same thing.
Joy
Boiler valves are NOT welded. They screw on. Yours looks like a 3/4
FIP valve. Depending upon what the attaching pipe is, you may or may
not be able to wrench it off. If its old galvanized pipe, you're
probably better off replacing the guts of the valve.
--
Grandpa
AAhhh. I tried my best to be clear. I'm afraid you assumed the picture is
of my actual bib... It's not. It's just a picture I found so I could
illustrate.
The bib does not appear to be modified and I doubt it was leaking from
that hole until I removed the screw holding the handle on. Hmmmm. Maybe
some loc-tite or something to seal the threads and block the water?
Anyway, still want to know why the hollow stem and how it should REALLY be
repaired.
Joy
I make 2 or 3 posts to alt.home.repair per year, and one of 'em gets
hi-jacked??
This hole that leaks......are you saying it is the same hole as
the screw screws into, or are you saying that it is a hole that goes
through the side of the stem?
> Take a picture of it if you can and put it up so we can see it.
>
>
Ok. If nobody figures this out I will take actual photos.
It will have to wait until my camera is repaired so it may be a while but
I'll do it first thing when it returns.
Joy
It is leaking from the hole in the side of the stem through which you can
see the side of the screw that holds the handle on.
Joy
I'll make a WAG that maybe the other end of that valve stem is pretty
conventionally shaped and has a rubber washer on it which should be held
in place by a screw. Maybe THAT screw has loosened (or even fallen out)
so that the rubber washer is no longer compressed under the screw's head
to keep water from entering the screw hole at that point.
To the OP, disassemble the hose bib further and let us know what you
find on the business end of the stem.
What that cross hole in the stem is for is a question I'd like to hear
the answer to. <G>
Jeff
--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.
Could that be a "freeze-proof" spigot? It's a little unlikely based on the
picture but you said it's a generic picture, not one of the actual item.
Freeze-proof spigots have a long (6+ inches) stem that _is_ hollow (mine
are, anyhow), and the actual water-stopping valve portion of it is at the
far end of that stem.
Freeze proof spigots are great since you don't have to go around the house
in November turning off the outside water. That's not hard, but here in
Montana where it can freeze in September the freeze proof spigots are nice
to have.
Or just get a 5 or 6 ft piece of treated 4x4 or 4x6 and put it in the
ground about 3 feet, then attach your reel to it. That way you wont
ruin your sideing for a hose reel that will likely fall apart in a
year. If you need more width to the post, just get a 4x8 or nail a
cross piece of 2x6 to it before you hang the reel. I have aluminum
siding and I wanted to attach a drinking fountain. Rather than wreck
the siding, and plus I needed a 6 inch wide bolt pattern, which no
stud would allow, I got a 4x6 post and used that. I did not use
cement on the post, although a hose reel has is being pulled, so it
depends on the soil. In hard clay, you probably dont need cement once
the fill hardens good. If you want to get real fancy put the post
elsewhere in the yard and run a hose to the reel and put a spigot on
the post to connect the reel. That way you can put it where its most
handy.
Joy
Until you can show us a picture of what you really have, everything
that goes on in the thread is conjecture. I'd really like to help,
but I need a little more information. KTHNXBY
--
Grandpa
I wouldn't drill a hole in vinyl siding, or aluminum siding, or
stucco, or stone, or bricks, etc. He's right, the thing will break
or rip out, and then you'll have a hole, bigger than the one you
drilled. OK in wood that can be repaired and painted to match, or the
mortar between bricks. (even then, I wonder how hard to match the
color of the mortar, and how long it takes before it's weathered
enough to match.
>Thanks...
>
>Mike