duct taping exhaust pipes
Uno
come loose in the middle. Can I just duct tape it for now and not
expect it to melt?
--
Uno
Ed Pawlowski
"Uno" <merril...@q.com> wrote in message
news:8d0rog...@mid.individual.net...
Not a good idea. Put it back together and then drill a small hole and put a
sheet metal screw through it.
aemeijers
bottom anyway, but just on general principles...)
--
aem sends...
DD_BobK
I have used aluminum foil duct tape for YEARS to "fix" the adjustable
elbows and secure joints on flue pipes with no ill effect.
I don't know if it's "ok' but it has worked fine for me w/o problems.
Do not use the fabric or plastic duct tapes for this application.
cheers
Bob
mm
I don't know what you can and can't expect, but I would expect it to
melt.
Use foil tape meant for that purpose.
don &/or Lucille
expensive but you get what you pay for in this case, have used both at work
and now wouldn't use anything but the real McCoy
hibb
Sounds dangerous to me. Isn't exhaust pipe leaks where carbon monoxide
gets into the house or do water heaters burn so little fuel that it
doesn't give off much exhaust?
N8N
no, it's definitely a concern. Most residential water heaters are in
the neighborhood of 30-40K BTU or higher IIRC. I would follow the
advice already given and screw it together. If it was put together
properly in the beginning, the smaller, crimped ends of all the
connections should be pointing in the direction of the exhaust flow to
minimize the possibility of backdraft, even without sealing the
joints. I suppose if you are anal retentive using some muffler cement
might work, covered with metal foil tape (as others have said, NOT any
other kind of "duct" tape - that would be doomed to a presumably
quick, smelly failure.)
nate
Bob F
> On Wed, 18 Aug 2010 07:09:52 -0230, "don &/or Lucille"
> <donch...@nf.sympatico.ca> wrote:
>
>> I'd use the real aluminum tape not the mylar type stuff. 3M makes
>> good one expensive but you get what you pay for in this case, have
>> used both at work and now wouldn't use anything but the real McCoy
>
> ignites and burns his house down.
> Duct tape is made for ducts (warm forced air), not HOT exhaust pipes.
In reality, most "duct tape" is not approved for ducts. It just doesn't last.
Bob F
My understanding is that the crimped ends should be pointed down to contain
condensation within the pipe instead of letting it drip out at the joints. This
is important for wood stoves.
willshak
For general use, I use the clear type (3M and others). I have used some
of it outside and it has been there for years, Summer and Winter,
without deterioration.
Forget the silver grey type. It just delaminates over time and the
remaining glue is almost impossible to remove cleanly.
Tom Horne
purpose was to hold the canvas in place over the insulation while the
Duct Insulators sewed the canvas up thus making the installation more
durable. That is why it is a cloth tape that is extremely sticky. It
is meant to conform to the canvas used to cover the old style
insulation used on ducts back in the day. It was never intended for
use directly on ducts. It was certainly never meant for use on gas
appliance vent tubing.
--
Tom Horne
On Aug 18, 6:21 am, j...@myplace.com wrote:
> On Wed, 18 Aug 2010 07:09:52 -0230, "don &/or Lucille"
>
> <donches...@nf.sympatico.ca> wrote:
> >I'd use the real aluminum tape not the mylar type stuff. 3M makes good one
> >expensive but you get what you pay for in this case, have used both at work
> >and now wouldn't use anything but the real McCoy
>
cl...@snyder.on.ca
wrote:
AKA "Duct tape" - not "duck tape" which is what the cloth stuff is
ACTUALLY - originally made of "cotton duck" - a type of cloth
mm
I'm afraid if one went looking for duct tape, he would end up with
tape for heating ducts, whichdon't get over 120F I would think.
Flues from furances and gas water heaters get a lot hotter than that,
and the op is working on the flue, the exhaust pipe, from his water
heater.
mm
Others said what I just did more strongly, so let me put it another
way.
You're thinking of the difference between duct tape and duct tape, a
worthwhile distinction, but neither of them is the tape for exhaust
pipes. That is metal foil tape.
AZ Nomad
The foil made for exhaust pipes doesn't work worth a damn. The
flexing caused by the pressure waves of the exhaust quickly cause the
tape to fatigue and rip. I've never heard of such a patch lasting a
whole month.
Uno
Thanks all for replies. Once I read them all, I realized that screwing
them together is what I wanted to do. If they are not together in a
convincing way (screws are very convincing), there is definitely a CO
exposure you don't want to have in the place where you hang out to
prepare your meals. (Yes, here in New Mexico, many of us have water
heaters in our kitchens.)
So here's how it went down:
1) Refrain from using hot water for a half hour so that ducts won't be hot.
2) Duct tape up the back of this joint so it stays together for the
next 5 minutes.
3) Use an 1-1/4 screw to make a penetration right on the knuckle. When
you get through the top, stop.
4) Use drill bit to prepare hole for screw.
5) Install screw.
6) Remove duct tape.
7) Thank the nice folks on usenet who helped me out here.
I think I'll foil tape it for good measure. Cheers,
--
Uno
Uno
> So here's how it went down:
>
> 1) Refrain from using hot water for a half hour so that ducts won't be hot.
> 2) Duct tape up the back of this joint so it stays together for the next
> 5 minutes.
> 3) Use an 1-1/4 screw to make a penetration right on the knuckle. When
> you get through the top, stop.
> 4) Use drill bit to prepare hole for screw.
> 5) Install screw.
> 6) Remove duct tape.
> 7) Thank the nice folks on usenet who helped me out here.
>
> I think I'll foil tape it for good measure. Cheers,
ps I used a different screw for the fastening: a little, metal duct screw.
--
Uno
mm
Well now you have. ;) Mine was put on in November I think and lasted
a whole winter. It weet on an oil furnace just two inches from the
flue collector, the steel part screwed to the furnace immediately past
the heat eachanger, so it gets hot.
Another piece was went about 8 inches up from there and 3 inches over,
out of the hot air flow but I'm sure it got hot. It was wrapped
around the damper (that's hinged and has an adjustable weight) by some
furnace guy and was there for a few years when another furnace guy
took it off.
Nate Nagel
I think he meant on the muffler of a car, which is a much harsher
environment than the flue of a burner due to the cyclic stress imposed
by the pulsing of the exhaust of a piston engine.
nate
--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel
AZ Nomad
Doh! I misread it as an OT automotive question.
A furnace isn't going to have the exhaust pressure waves of an internal
combustion engine.
AZ Nomad
Yes, I usually think of the exhaust of a furnace refered to as a chimney
pipe.
mm
<azno...@PremoveOBthisOX.COM> wrote:
Okay, I get it.
I used exhaust pipe this time because the OP had in reference to a
water heater. and no one quoted had used a different term.
So we agree. Good!
mm
<azno...@PremoveOBthisOX.COM> wrote:
That didn't clue me in. I figured maybe some new fancy furnaces do!
RES
I think that some trolling has been going on, but in case the question was
for real, the answer is: Repair the duct, screw the pieces together. The
duct- in fact any duct- should be mechanically sound before any sealing.
Duct tape, as used in the trades, is used on some ducts to overlay a seam,
but the seam itself must be tight, entirely closed and sound before applying
the duct tape. I've seen inspectors use a pick or knife point to test just
that issue.
For a vent pipe, this is even more important. Personally, I've never seen a
professionally installed water heater, boiler or furnace vent pipe held
together, spliced or even reinforced with duct tape. It'll burn, dry out or
fail. Possibly the aluminum "tape" could be used, but even that has an
adhesive that would probably fail due to the heat.
You're much better off replacing the bad section of the vent, from the draft
hood up. The cost isn't that much and you're going to be a lot safer.
Nonny
DD_BobK
The aluminum tape I put on my water heat flue in 1980 is still
performing fine.
cheers
Bob