Circular Saw Burning/Smoking Problem

[jmy...@sbcglobal.net]

Hello all,

As an intermediate DIY'r, I am surprised to be having
trouble with my new circular saw. I am attempting to cut through 1''
stair noses, but my brand new Skill 7 1/4'' saw can barely cut through
the wood and smokes excessivly. I finally used a jig saw to finish the

cut and noticed that the wood was black from burning.

Any thoughts? I've never experienced this with my 18v Ryobi cordless
saw, and I use it pretty hard. This saw even smoked while cutting a
1'' bamboo stair tread, which the Ryobi cut effortlessly.

Thanks in advance,

Joe

[Click Fraud]

jmy...@sbcglobal.net wrote:

>I am attempting to cut through 1''
>stair noses, but my brand new Skill 7 1/4'' saw can barely cut through
>the wood and smokes excessivly.

Is the blade on backwards?

[jmyszka]

I'm pretty sure that it is not. The arrows on the blade are going the
same direction as the arrow on the saw, thus the teeth are pointed
upwards at the front of the saw (if that makes any sense). Anything
else that could cause this? Otherwise, its back to the home depot and
pray they return it.

[mm]

On 31 Jul 2006 14:32:13 -0700, jmy...@sbcglobal.net wrote:

>Hello all,
>
>As an intermediate DIY'r, I am surprised to be having
>trouble with my new circular saw. I am attempting to cut through 1''
>stair noses, but my brand new Skill 7 1/4'' saw can barely cut through
>the wood and smokes excessivly. I finally used a jig saw to finish the
>
>cut and noticed that the wood was black from burning.
>
>Any thoughts? I've never experienced this with my 18v Ryobi cordless
>saw, and I use it pretty hard. This saw even smoked while cutting a

Smoking in saws is bad. See if you can get it to cut out smoking, or
at least switch to filters.

[David Martel]

Joe,

Have you tried using the same blade with your cordless? Is the blade
sharp and correct for the work? Why do you think this is a saw problem
rather than a blade problem?

Dave M.

[jmyszka]

Dave,

I can't use the same blade as the cordless is a 5.5'' and the skil
corded is a 7.25''. I'm inclined to think that this possibly a saw
problem because the blade is new and I am fairly confident it is
installed properly. I don't know what else to think, I'm quite
surprised to be having this substantial of a problem on such a mild
job.

jm

[Colbyt]

<jmy...@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:1154381533.6...@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...

Noticing that you have already replied that the blade appears to be on
correctly I must ask if you are using the blade that came with the saw?

The usually aren't worth the time it takes to install them. Buy a carbide
blade of the proper size and see how that cuts.

--
Colbyt
One picture can be worth a 1000 words.
Post yours at www.ImageGenie.net for FREE.

[Jeff]

I would guess it is the blade. If you are doing a free cut, then there is
nothing to bind like if your rip fence is misaligned on a table saw. Get a
good general purpose carbide blade and try again.

<jmy...@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:1154381533.6...@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...

[Bob]

"jmyszka" <jmy...@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:1154389425.9...@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...

> Dave,
>
> I can't use the same blade as the cordless is a 5.5'' and the skil
> corded is a 7.25''. I'm inclined to think that this possibly a saw
> problem because the blade is new and I am fairly confident it is
> installed properly. I don't know what else to think, I'm quite
> surprised to be having this substantial of a problem on such a mild
> job.

You either have the blade on backwards, or a very dull blade. Hit
any nails recently?

Bob

[Steven L Umbach]

They should take it back if it was a recent purchase. Take a piece of burnt
wood along. Check to see if the blade [left to right or right to left] is
square to the foot and does not wobble excessively.

Steve

"jmyszka" <jmy...@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message

news:1154384164.2...@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com...

[Stormin Mormon]

Buy a new sawblade, and put the new sawblade on.

--

Christopher A. Young
You can't shout down a troll.
You have to starve them.
.

<jmy...@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:1154381533.6...@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...

[Stormin Mormon]

OK, so get a sawblade with a nicotine patch. Seriously. Replace the
blade.

--

Christopher A. Young
You can't shout down a troll.
You have to starve them.
.

"mm" <NOPSAM...@bigfoot.com> wrote in message
news:kd4tc2dhgfu8c6s8r...@4ax.com...

[George E. Cawthon]

Ha! you just ran into another problem,which is the
front and which is the back of the saw. If you
think you are driving a car and not feeding wood
into a machine, and lots maybe most woodworkers
do, then you stand and feed wood in and the side
that the cut wood emerges at is the front.

However, if you think you are feeding wood into a
machine, the side nearest you is the front of the
machine (saw).

To answer you question, though, when you feed the
wood in, the contact with the blade should have
saw teeth going down into the saw. Or another way
to look at is the gullets are moving toward you.

[mm]

On 31 Jul 2006 16:43:46 -0700, "jmyszka" <jmy...@sbcglobal.net>
wrote:

>Dave,
>
>I can't use the same blade as the cordless is a 5.5'' and the skil
>corded is a 7.25''. I'm inclined to think that this possibly a saw
>problem because the blade is new and I am fairly confident it is
>installed properly. I don't know what else to think, I'm quite
>surprised to be having this substantial of a problem on such a mild
>job.

I got a small electric chain saw at a yard sale, and it would barely
cut. I was trying to figure out how to sharpen it, when I gradually
realized the chain was on backwards.

In a circular saw the points and openings of the teeth should point up
in front. Because the blade turns clockwise when viewed from the
left.

[George E. Cawthon]

Oops. I didn't see the "Skill saw." Sorry,
forget what I said.

Possible causes are a poor blade, saw blade not
parallel to the tracking edge of the saw, end play
of the bearings.

[Phil Munro]

In addition to what others have said, occasionally wood will warp when
cut in a direction which tightens it at the trailing edge of the cut.
This "clamping" effect can cause a problem like yours. Or, if you are
trying to do a curved (jig saw) cut, that will burn the wood, too.
But I would go with a new blade, a carbide one. I use a carbide blade
for all my work; normal rip or cross-cut blades do not last on anything
but light weight cutting. --Phil

jmy...@sbcglobal.net wrote:

--
Phil Munro Dept of Electrical & Computer Engin
mailto:PcM...@cc.ysu.edu Youngstown State University
Youngstown, Ohio 44555

[Goedjn]

On Tue, 01 Aug 2006 10:56:37 -0400, Phil Munro <PcM...@cc.ysu.edu>
wrote:

[jmyszka]

Thanks to everyone for their input. Home Depot was glad to take their
saw back, and I picked up a dewalt jigsaw that finished the job easily.

jm

[Jack Lindsey]

replying to jmyszka, Jack Lindsey wrote:
i read where if the fence is not properly lined up will make bad cuts or
burning
saw blade mis alighnment. use a capenter square, or exact spacer, set
screws in top of fence
loosen and adjust fence to front and back tighten set screws


--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/circular-saw-burning-smoking-problem-133535-.htm

[DerbyDad03]

On Tuesday, February 28, 2017 at 5:44:05 AM UTC-5, Jack Lindsey wrote:
> replying to jmyszka, Jack Lindsey wrote:
> i read where if the fence is not properly lined up will make bad cuts or
> burning
> saw blade mis alighnment. use a capenter square, or exact spacer, set
> screws in top of fence
> loosen and adjust fence to front and back tighten set screws
>
>

Unfortunately the OP has passed away, mainly because you waited 11 years to answer his
question. He never finished the stairs and one evening he tripped going down and broke his
neck. His son inherited the crappy circular saw and is now screwing up projects on his
own house.

[Uncle Monster]

The 345 gerbils really miss him. ヽ(ヅ)ノ

[8~{} Uncle Kerf Monster

[Lovefishing]

replying to jmyszka, Lovefishing wrote:
I to am having that problem with the last three blades I put in my skilsaw.

[Tania Wilfrad]

replying to jmyszka, Tania Wilfrad wrote:
I faced this issue - it was a brand new blade, so no doubt on the sharpness
here. Yet, on my very first cut itself the wood started smoking, and the saw
would not go in as smoothly as it should be.. But the cut was not that bad at
all, and that made me doubly confused. Later on, after reading through
multiple posts, including this forum, i realized that i made the mistake of
putting it on in the reverse direction - actually, the blade was meant for a
standard clockwise rotation cut, but my machine ( a cheap one ) was expecting
an anti-clockwise blade.

I just reversed the blade, and voila! burning stopped, cuts are much more
cleaner

[Richard I Harris]

replying to jmyszka, Richard I Harris wrote:
Were you using a square to guide the saw straight through the cut? If not, the
saw could bind, resin build up and the now-dirty blade start smoking.

[Ed S]

replying to Richard I Harris, Ed S wrote:
Replaced my Circular Skilsaw, which had same blade for over 10 years, with
brand new blade. All the videos said have the writing side of the blade
facing out, but in the end, the blade was on backwards, and hence the smoke
and burn. It's not a problem with saw, or anything else, the bottom line is
the blade goes the opposite way you would think and assume. I turned it
around and perfect cuts with no smoke.

[Tom]

replying to jmyszka, Tom wrote:
My Ryobi cordless is smoking out the side circular saw .does this mean I burnt
it up or how do I fix it

[Smokey]

replying to DerbyDad03, Smokey wrote:
😂😂😂

[corjb...@gmail.com]

Beware of poorly written owner's manuals. You might think you followed directions to the letter. And then discover like I did that the pictures don't always match reality. In my case the markings (holes) of the blade intended to show blade rotation were backward from what the manual shows. So yes, the blade was backward and caused smoking and lousy cuts. It's true that before trying a cut the teeth are the best indicator of proper blade orientation if you know what to look for. In my case the teeth are shaped so that it's hard for a newbie to tell at a glance whether they're "pointing up" at the front of the saw. I thought the teeth were pointing up, and those dang holes in the saw were the same orientation as shown in the manual. But it was wrong. Once the blade was mounted correctly it cut easily and straight without smoking. The business edge of the teeth should rotate "toward and into" the saw (or "up") at the front where it cuts. Looks to me like there are two surefire ways to know if you've got the blade right or wrong, regardless of any blade markings. The teeth can tell you. And the smoke and rough cuts do too.

[Steven Cinquegrana]

I had this issue with a pretty decent Makita circular saw and I found that the problem was indeed wood resin residue. But it was mainly on the inside - invisible side - of the blade, so not obvious until the blade was removed. It wasn't easy to remove the gunk but a wire brush on a drill plus some thinner did the trick. I thought of just running the saw and sticking some steel wool in there but decided against it. (Just kidding - DO NOT DO THAT!) The other thing I think I was doing wrong was not running the saw through the material fast enough; it was my first circular and I was a little timid. And obviously, the type of wood makes quite a difference. Brazilian teak is like iron and is quite resiny.

[Wade Garrett]

On 10/29/21 9:25 PM, Steven Cinquegrana wrote:
> I had this issue with a pretty decent Makita circular saw and I found that the problem was indeed wood resin residue. But it was mainly on the inside - invisible side - of the blade, so not obvious until the blade was removed. It wasn't easy to remove the gunk but a wire brush on a drill plus some thinner did the trick. I thought of just running the saw and sticking some steel wool in there but decided against it. (Just kidding - DO NOT DO THAT!) The other thing I think I was doing wrong was not running the saw through the material fast enough; it was my first circular and I was a little timid. And obviously, the type of wood makes quite a difference. Brazilian teak is like iron and is quite resiny.
>

A circular saw blade section that is "inside-invisible"? Say how...

--
When a woman says “Correct me if I'm wrong”, do not under any- and I
mean any- circumstances do it.