How to do inside and outside corners and ends of beadboard wainscoting?
Adam
a chair rail across the top, and baseboard at the bottom to finish the
top and bottom. For the inside and outside corners, though, what should
I do? Some points will abut against door frame, where I will simply
trim the beadboard to meet it. What about the corners though? And there
are two places where the beadboard will need to meet the bullnose edge
of the shower tiles. How should I finish those edges?
Thanks!
Edwin Pawlowski
"Adam" <adam...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1110949282.6...@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
For an inside corner I'd put one piece flush to the wall, then bring in the
second piece and trim to fit next to it. You can scribe a line and then cut
it with a jig saw of use a plane or rasp to get a perfect fit.
Outside corners are tougher. You can do a lap joint and plane to fid, or you
can use a corner trim that may or may not stain the same color if that is
the finish. Many years ago, my step father used to do mitered corners on a
job like that and in 1970's dollars, he'd charge $25 a corner to do it. He
had the skill for that to make it look like a solid piece of wood.
Joseph Meehan
Yea, the best is mitered, but even with the best of tools and reasonable
straight walls, it is a bear.
--
Joseph Meehan
26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math
Duane Bozarth
> Yea, the best is mitered, but even with the best of tools and reasonable
> straight walls, it is a bear.
Easiest way I've found is to make the corner section in the shop and
then field-fit rather than try to fit the miter itself onsite....