How to fix leak in 5k gallon steel water tank on concrete pad
Godspeed
pad?
One of two tanks is leaking from the bottom. Not much, but enough to keep
the concrete always wet (which likely is rusting it out even more).
I can't figure out how one would go about fixing this kind of leak.
Bob F
Drain it. Weld it.
Ed Pawlowski
Not enough information. Chances are, the tank is rusted, very thin,
difficult to fix. It may be possible to weld a plate over the area, it may
be possible to line the tank. If it is already lined, you cannot weld on it.
Inspection is needed to answer your question. There are companies that
specialize in tank repair. Call one to look at it.
Jim Elbrecht
wrote:
or . .
Drain it. Replace it.
That was easy.
Jim
JIMMIE
> On Tue, 12 Jan 2010 23:04:53 -0800, "Bob F" <bobnos...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> >Godspeed wrote:
> >> Anyone know how to fix a leaking 5000 gallon steel water tank on a
> >> concrete pad?
>
> >> One of two tanks is leaking from the bottom. Not much, but enough to
> >> keep the concrete always wet (which likely is rusting it out even
> >> more).
>
> >> I can't figure out how one would go about fixing this kind of leak.
>
> >Drain it. Weld it.
>
> or . .
> Drain it. Replace it.
>
> That was easy.
>
> Jim
Dont put the next steel tank directly on concrete
DerbyDad03
1 - Fill the tank with some really nasty stuff...maybe even plumb your
toilets into it.
2 - Call Mike Rowe over at Dirty Jobs. He's always whining about
running out of Dirty Jobs for his show.
Maybe they'll come out and fix it for free.
Godspeed
> Not enough information. Chances are, the tank is rusted, very thin
When the well had a problem in the summer, the well guy took a look at the
tank leak and said the tank was in "good shape" externally.
This steel tank is lying on very thin slats of wood (most of which are
rotted out). The two tanks are about 20 years old since the home is only
about 20 years old.
They're painted steel on the outside with absolutely no visible rust on the
outside. Inside, there is rust on the steel and there does not seem to be a
"lining" that I know of (the water inside looked yucky from the top but the
well guy said that's normal).
The well guy said he never "fixes" leaking water tanks. Said it's like
fixing a radiator on a car. Plug one spot and the hole opens up somewhere
else. He recommended a brand new non-steel tank. Sure. It's not his money.
That's twenty grand.
Of course a new tank is "better". But, does it pay to weld a plate?
Since the tanks are in great visual shape, I'm hoping there is a viable
fix-it solution. Does a "normal" welder do this kind of work or is there a
specialty shop somewhere out there like roto rooter or something?
dpb
Flat bottom or round? Upright/horizontal? Internal access?
Who knows from here?
As the well guy said, you can try but it's likely if it's rusted out in
one spot it's terribly thin in many.
A decent welder can do the welding; question nobody can tell w/o looking
is the condition overall and where the leak is, access, etc., etc.,
etc., ... You possibly could simply rotate it 180 and extend life;
otoh, disturbing it might open it up completely if it's really thin.
If this is just a residential installation, why such a large tank or are
not using a pressure pump? Could potentially go w/ a much smaller
pressure tank far cheaper.
--
Jim
"Godspeed" <gods...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:hijof1$qg3$1...@speranza.aioe.org...
As a Journeyman welder and pipeline welder of 30 years, and as a few
other posters said, drain it and weld it. I have come across this
before...putting a patch on it will just prolong the enevitable. Cut the
bottom off it and weld a new one on. I used to build 35-50 thousand gallon
fuel tanks for the oil industry. Normal prodedure is after having replaced a
tank bottom. The outside bottom is covered in thick tar to prevent
rusting...doesn't really matter what it sits on then..ie wood, concrete,
soil. Hope that helps... Jim
Godspeed
> Flat bottom or round?
Flat bottom and top.
> Upright/horizontal?
Upright. About 10 or 12 feet tall and about 8 or 10 feet wide. Cylinder.
> Internal access?
Has about a 2-foot hatch on top for access. No ladder inside so I'm not
sure how you get to the bottom (or back up for that matter). I guess a thin
ladder would work.
> As the well guy said, you can try but it's likely if it's rusted out in
> one spot it's terribly thin in many.
It really "looks" good on the outside. I wonder if it's not just a pipe
leak somewhere on the bottom.
> You possibly could simply rotate it 180 and extend life;
I don't think something that big can be moved.
> If this is just a residential installation, why such a large tank
Large? I asked the well guy why everyone had 3 or 4 tanks and I only had 2
and he said anything over 10,000 gallons needs special earthquake
foundations so everyone just puts in a set of small 5,000 gallon tanks. So,
5,000 gallons, out here, is small since I can see on google clusters of 3,
4, and 5 tanks all around.
> not using a pressure pump? Could potentially go w/ a much smaller
> pressure tank far cheaper.
There is a 3-foot tall blue pressure tank in the well housing that has a
motor that pressurizes the water to about 80 psi (said the well guy). That
pressure tank is about 2 feet wide. Dunno exactly what it's for but it
seems to hold the pressureized water (all the water except the water to the
fire hydrant).
Godspeed
> Cut the bottom off it and weld a new one on.
That's an interesting idea since it's the bottom that must be leaking.
One question is how to "move" the tank. It's on quarter-inch thick wood
slats (most of which are eaten away by now). The other tank is on good
quarter inch slats so I assume the rot from the water ate away the wood.
Can something like this be tipped over? It's on a hill so I'd worry about
it rolling down the hill. Can the "bottom" be welded in place?
I guess straps can be used to hold it from rolling down the hill?
Steve Barker
> On Wed, 13 Jan 2010 05:43:38 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>
> The well guy said he never "fixes" leaking water tanks. Said it's like
> fixing a radiator on a car. Plug one spot and the hole opens up somewhere
> else. He recommended a brand new non-steel tank. Sure. It's not his money.
> That's twenty grand.
Plastic water tanks are not that expensive.
dpb
> On Wed, 13 Jan 2010 08:39:10 -0600, dpb wrote:
>
>> Flat bottom or round?
> Flat bottom and top.
>
>> Upright/horizontal?
> Upright. About 10 or 12 feet tall and about 8 or 10 feet wide. Cylinder.
>
>> Internal access?
> Has about a 2-foot hatch on top for access. No ladder inside so I'm not
> sure how you get to the bottom (or back up for that matter). I guess a thin
> ladder would work.
>
>> As the well guy said, you can try but it's likely if it's rusted out in
>> one spot it's terribly thin in many.
> It really "looks" good on the outside. I wonder if it's not just a pipe
> leak somewhere on the bottom.
OK, so the only way you could do anything about it anyway is either thru
the top hatch anyway unless there's an access underneath somewhere.
How is/was the connection made; where's the line?
The fact that what is visible looks good doesn't mean much (like
anything) in comparison to the bottom that isn't. You've got one dry
side every where except there; that side has been corroding from both
sides for a long time now so it is likely quite thin in many places. It
isn't uniformly thin, it'll have pitted locations and they'll be
scattered all around if that is the failure.
>> You possibly could simply rotate it 180 and extend life;
> I don't think something that big can be moved.
Well, it got there, didn't it? I doubt it grew from seed... :)
If it were horizontal round, that's a doable thing. Cylindrical upright
not so much which is why asked...
>> If this is just a residential installation, why such a large tank
> Large? I asked the well guy why everyone had 3 or 4 tanks and I only had 2
> and he said anything over 10,000 gallons needs special earthquake
> foundations so everyone just puts in a set of small 5,000 gallon tanks. So,
> 5,000 gallons, out here, is small since I can see on google clusters of 3,
> 4, and 5 tanks all around.
...
OK, you have your own fire protection supply, too. A 80/100 gal
pressure tank is typically sufficient for simply a residential water supply.
I'd wager a new tank is in your future; you may be able to put it off
but likely not repairable.
--
Roger Shoaf
> On Wed, 13 Jan 2010 05:43:38 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>
> The well guy said he never "fixes" leaking water tanks. Said it's like
> fixing a radiator on a car. Plug one spot and the hole opens up somewhere
> else.
Sounds to me like he is incompetent. The only radiator I ever fixed, stayed
fixed.
I would think the first step would be to inspect the tank to asses the
condition. While it could be that the tank is rusted so thin that repair is
not a viable option, it could also be that the damaged area is small and
easily repaired.
Also, even if the tank is almost rusted out, a repair might be able to be
made by using the steel skin as something to fiber glass on the inside. A
smelly job, but if it saves you 20 grand for a new tank then go for it.
--
Roger Shoaf
About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.
Tony
> Godspeed wrote:
>
> If this is just a residential installation, why such a large tank or are
> not using a pressure pump? Could potentially go w/ a much smaller
> pressure tank far cheaper.
I'm guessing he has no well and is collecting rainwater. I almost
bought a place that had all the rain from the roofs of the house and the
2000sq ft garage go into tanks. It wasn't being used anymore because
they now had city water. The "well guy" could be the guy who pipes that
water to a pump and a normal pressure tank. Just a guess because I've
seen it before.
dpb
I'd guess maybe that it would cost as much or more for a 5000 gal tank
to do that as a new one by time paid rigging costs, etc. Certainly for
10X that but in a residential (apparently?) installation it'll be a
major hassle getting it done an all likelihood as compared to the
industrial setting where it was "just bidness"...
$0.02, etc., ... altho I suppose in an area that has requirement for
residential fire water storage there may be some folks around that
specialize so wouldn't be as big a deal as in most areas that don't have
such needs/installations at all commonly.
--
Joe
Consider replacing the tank. There is a huge stock of surplus food and
chemical processing tankage your can find with internet searches, and
Yellow Pages in some areas. With a bit of luck you may wind up with a
stainless steel vessel of the right size complete with pipe fittings.
Transportation is not a problem as the size you need fits easily on a
flat bed trailer or roll-off. If more than one tank from the surplus
company is available, consider buying two if the $$ look good, and
installing both, keeping the non leaker. When the last steel one
fails, you still will have an adequate storage system.
Joe
Pete C.
Roger Shoaf wrote:
>
> "Godspeed" <gods...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:hikl9h$ao3$1...@speranza.aioe.org...
> > On Wed, 13 Jan 2010 05:43:38 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> >
> > The well guy said he never "fixes" leaking water tanks. Said it's like
> > fixing a radiator on a car. Plug one spot and the hole opens up somewhere
> > else.
>
> Sounds to me like he is incompetent. The only radiator I ever fixed, stayed
> fixed.
>
> I would think the first step would be to inspect the tank to asses the
> condition. While it could be that the tank is rusted so thin that repair is
> not a viable option, it could also be that the damaged area is small and
> easily repaired.
>
> Also, even if the tank is almost rusted out, a repair might be able to be
> made by using the steel skin as something to fiber glass on the inside. A
> smelly job, but if it saves you 20 grand for a new tank then go for it.
>
Since it's a flat bottom it may be possible to replace the entire bottom
if the rest of the tank is viable. Empty, even a tank that size isn't
that difficult to lift.
Pete C.
If these large tanks are common in the area, there might be some place
that specializes in installing a plastic bladder liner in them to extend
their useable lifespan.
JIMMIE
Yeah, My Father in law did that. He collected the rain off of his 2700
sqft home and 1800 sqft work shop. Cistern was 7000 gal. I was amazed
at what a small rain it took to fill them.
Jimmie
DD_BobK
OP-
You've got a lot of smart. experienced guys trying to help you out
here but "situation" is not being laid out very clearly.
Where are you located? The tank is on wood slats, are they on a
concrete pad? How big is the pad?
Why do oyu need 5000 gallons? Or do you need even more? Something
about fire fighting?
Now oyu mention that perhaps fittings are leaking and not the tank.
The tank may only be rusted externally, poor maintainance?
Maybe the leak saturated the wood slats and promoted external
corrosion?
The details are coming out bit by bit. Now there is a second tank?
How long have the neighboring tanks lasted?
Galv steel can last a long time with non-corrosiove water quality.
If the tank is sound except for the bottom (as per other post) it
"could" reworked. A skilled welder could rig this thing, cut the
bottom off and repair but field repairs are hard to make as good as
new factory fabrication. :(
Call around and see if a welder can "do it all" .....don't drag the
guy out there for a bid, you'll be wasting his time.
Have all the details (measurements, installation, etc) so you can
answer his questions on the phone.
Check out new tanks online....delivered, I'll bet (unless your in BFE)
less than $3000. Installation extra.
With the price of a new tank (with installation if oyu cannot do it
yourself).......you'll know if a repair is worth while
From my keyboard, I recommend a repair if its less than $1000 and
start saving for a new one. Or can you get by with only one tank for
a while?
What is your well production rate?
But if you're going to own a property with a well, better plan on
getting handy or keep that check book ready.
cheers
Bob
DD_BobK
dpb
...
> ... He recommended a brand new non-steel tank. Sure. It's not his money.
> That's twenty grand.
..
That's almost 10X an estimate for a tank alone I'd think; at least if it
doesn't have to be potable (but even there I'm sure their available for
much less than $20k @ 5000 gal.
Assuming you're in CA from the fire protection requirement, here's one
link that might be of some interest--they have black poly from roughly
the $2k range.
<http://www.watertanks.com/contact.asp>
--
Bob F
I've seen ads on craigslist for huge bladders used for storage of water without
a tank. One of these could perhaps be used inside the tank, or in place of it.
Stormin Mormon
it dry.
Hint: this is a troll.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Godspeed" <gods...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:hijof1$qg3$1...@speranza.aioe.org...
Bob F
> Can you dry it out, add some Por-15, and shake the tank? Let
> it dry.
>
> Hint: this is a troll.
I wonder if that "rhino liner" stuff is "food grade". It might do wonders
sprayed on the inside of the tank.
Jim
No Godspeed it can't be done on it's side... It's gotta be lifted straight
up using a "gin pole" laying it on it's side will only egg shape it under
its own weight. we lay them on their side after the bottom has been welded
on and use a paint roller to apply the tar.... Jim
Jim
"Jim" <nospam@wherever> wrote in message
news:aaCdnVY7y6F199PW...@posted.sasktel...
Better yet...EMail my welding business at ...... morriswelding at
sasktel dot net ....send me photos and I'll coach you from there...I
am home on time off (Wife is doing treatments after BEATING breast cancer)
so am home and am looking for something to do to keep my mind busy...so I'll
give you all the free advice you need while I'm sitting at home...Jim
>
hr(bob) hofmann@att.net
> "Jim" <nospam@wherever> wrote in message
>
> news:aaCdnVY7y6F199PW...@posted.sasktel...
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
No one has mentioned chewing gum!!
Jim
"hr(bob) hof...@att.net" <hrho...@att.net> wrote in message
news:c11e62e5-bedd-4658...@m16g2000yqc.googlegroups.com...
SHHHHHH bob yer gonna put me out of business...lol Jim
news.eternal-september.org
Godspeed <gods...@yahoo.com> typed:
> Anyone know how to fix a leaking 5000 gallon steel water tank on a
> concrete pad?
>
> One of two tanks is leaking from the bottom. Not much, but enough to
> keep the concrete always wet (which likely is rusting it out even
> more).
>
> I can't figure out how one would go about fixing this kind of leak.
If it's that small a leak, and the surrounding material is in good shape,
they make screw-in patches for those. It's like a short lag screw with a
rubber washer that you just screw into the hole. Decide the size you need,
then get two: one you think you need and the next larger size too, just in
case. Works well and will stand up to the pressure. Sounds like it's just a
pinhole right now so timing's good.
The Daring Dufas
How do they get the Rhino to hold still?
TDD
Ed Pawlowski
>
> Of course a new tank is "better". But, does it pay to weld a plate?
>
> Since the tanks are in great visual shape, I'm hoping there is a
> viable fix-it solution. Does a "normal" welder do this kind of work
> or is there a specialty shop somewhere out there like roto rooter or
> something?
Most any weld shop can do it. Typical welder is about $75 to $100 an hour +
materials + travel time.
If the leak is on the bottom, it may be difficult to get to. If there is
one leak, there may be others. As I said, it has to be seen to be properly
determined what action to take. It may just be a pin hole leak in one spot,
it may be a pile of rust held together by paint.
Ed Pawlowski
You don't want to keep him still. It is sprayed on Rhino pee. Getting him
to aim is the trick.
Oren
Large caliber ammo?! Single shot. maybe?
hal...@aol.com
>
> - Show quoted text -
replace steel tank with plastic one. no more rust.
the old tank is likely rusted out
Godspeed
> OK, so the only way you could do anything about it anyway is either thru
> the top hatch anyway unless there's an access underneath somewhere.
There does not appear to be any access other than from the top.
> How is/was the connection made; where's the line?
The well water comes in from the top of the leaking tank.
There is a four-inch fire-hydrant line connecting the two 5000 gallon tanks
near the bottom; so as the leaking tank fills, it fills the second 5000
gallon tank in parallel. Presumably that 4" line will will "almost" empty
the tank should we need to drain it. Each tank has a large 8'inch wide
circular handle on that four-inch line to isolate each tank from the other.
At about the 1/3 empty mark of the tank that is leaking, there is the water
outflow for the house. This steel outflow pipe is about two inches wide.
Presumably the house can only use the top 2/3 of the water in the tanks
while the unpressurized fire hydrant can use almost all of it.
> I'd wager a new tank is in your future; you may be able to put it off
> but likely not repairable.
I was afraid of that. :(
The Daring Dufas
I thought the liner was used to make the Rhino's eyes look pretty.
TDD
Godspeed
> The tank is on wood slats, are they on a concrete pad?
Yes. The concrete pad is about 20 feet long by about 10 feet wide and it
has the two tanks sitting on it, side by side, with a small well house off
to one end where there pressure pump resides and the top of the well sits
along with three or four electric panels.
> Why do oyu need 5000 gallons? Or do you need even more?
> Something about fire fighting?
I think 10,000 gallons is about right for the house. All the neighbors seem
to have larger sets of tanks than just two. I misspoke before about the
10,000 gallons needing special earthquake floating pads; it's anything over
5,001 gallons which needs the special pad so that's why everyone has sets
of 5,000 gallons.
> Now you mention that perhaps fittings are leaking and not the tank.
I was hoping it was the fittings but when I asked the well guy, he said the
only fittings were those I could see on the sides and top of the tank:
0. Tank 1 is leaking; tank 2 is connected to tank 1 by a 4-inch valved pipe
1. The well pumps water into the top of tank 1 via about a 2-inch line
2. The water comes out of tank 1 at about the 1/3 level for the house
3. From there, the water goes to pressure pump and a blue pressure tank
4. From the blue pressure tank, the water goes into the house
5. Additionally, the 4-inch line near the bottom of each tank goes to an
unpressurized fire hydrant called a "wharf hydrant" by the fire department
None of these fittings are leaking. I was hoping there was a 'drain plug'
or something on the bottom of the tank but the well guy said it would just
be a weak spot to start leaking.
> The tank may only be rusted externally, poor maintainance?
> Maybe the leak saturated the wood slats and promoted external
> corrosion?
Certainly it's not helping the situation that the wood slats are constantly
wet.
> The details are coming out bit by bit. Now there is a second tank?
> How long have the neighboring tanks lasted?
Very good question! This house is 20 years old and I'd guess the other
houses are similar since I saw a map from the 70s which didn't even show a
paved road. Most houses here are probably less than 20 years old. I will
see if I can ask how long their tanks lasted, but some seem to be made out
of wood (at least on the outside) and some are green plastic with awnings
over them (mine is painted steel with no awnings).
> Galv steel can last a long time with non-corrosiove water quality.
With all that rust on the inside, I'd suspect it's not galvanized. I wonder
how else I can tell?
> If the tank is sound except for the bottom (as per other post) it
> "could" be reworked. A skilled welder could rig this thing, cut the
> bottom off and repair but field repairs are hard to make as good as
> new factory fabrication. :(
Interesting idea! I hadn't thought that they could "cut the bottom off".
That would solve the problem, wouldn't it? One problem is that it must be
darn hard to get heavy equipment up the hill where the tanks are, but, they
must have gotten the trucks in there somehow. The well guy things they went
from the neighbor's yard.
Nobody, until you, suggested cutting the bottom off. The previous idea was
to patch it and I understood the problem of "patching the radiator". But,
if we can cut the bottom off, then it seems to me the results should be
pretty good, right?
> Call around and see if a welder can "do it all" .....don't drag the
> guy out there for a bid, you'll be wasting his time.
> Have all the details (measurements, installation, etc) so you can
> answer his questions on the phone.
I will do that. I guess I also need someone to "tip" the tank over so the
welder can work it on the side, right?
> Check out new tanks online....delivered, I'll bet (unless your in BFE)
> less than $3000. Installation extra.
I will report back. Would you suggest I research steel (1:1 replacement) or
some other material? I see wood and plastic tanks all around the hillside.
> With the price of a new tank (with installation if oyu cannot do it
> yourself).......you'll know if a repair is worth while
I see the plan.
a) Get a rough phone-call estimate from a welder for a new steel bottom
b) Get a rough estimate for a new tank from the Internet
c) Compare & decide
> What is your well production rate?
Not good. The well guy tested it at 400 feet deep and he ran the well for
an hour and it shut off twice (he had to flip the breakers on and off to
restart the pump). He said the water level dropped 15 feet in that hour and
that we were getting only about 6 gallons a minute (I can double check the
paperwork).
> But if you're going to own a property with a well, better plan on
> getting handy or keep that check book ready.
:) I'm ok with learning. That's why I'm here asking and responding!
Godspeed
> I almost bought a place that had all the rain from the roof
The next door neighbor actually does collect rainwater off his roof and
feeds it to a 22,000 gallon underground tank for his irrigation needs but
mine is well water.
There are two wells on the property, one of which the well inspector said
was useless and is currently turned off at its breaker. The other well is
the one that supplies all the water needs.
Godspeed
> Plastic water tanks are not that expensive.
You're right. I was hoping to "repair" the tank but the advice to check the
price of new is apropos. A new "plastic" tank seems to be about $2,000.
A new "5,000 Gallon Fresh Water Poly Tank" is $2,238.60 here:
http://www.watertanks.com/products/0005-045.asp
Diameter:102 inches; Height:152 inches; Weight:875 pounds;
Here's a heavier "5000 Gallon Polyethylene Fresh Water Tank" for $2,000:
http://www.gototanks.com/SN5000-Gallon-Frwsh-Water-Tank.aspx
Diameter:102 inches; Height:153 inches; Weight:1,200 lbs.
This low profile "5000 Gallon Black Water Tank" goes for $1,775:
http://www.tank-depot.com/productdetails.aspx?part=TN5001IW&ref=base
Diameter:141 inches; Height:86 inches; Weight:879 lbs.
I wonder how long plastic tanks last compared to steel?
Godspeed
> Since it's a flat bottom it may be possible to replace the entire bottom
> if the rest of the tank is viable. Empty, even a tank that size isn't
> that difficult to lift.
Someone else suggested welding a new bottom on. Do they lift it up with a
crane and then cut the bottom off and fabricate a new bottom?
Or do they tip it over on its side and weld the bottom on from the side?
I wouldn't want it rolling down the hill!
Godspeed
> Assuming you're in CA from the fire protection requirement, here's one
> link that might be of some interest--they have black poly from roughly
> the $2k range.
> <http://www.watertanks.com/contact.asp>
I agree. The original estimate was wrong. The "poly" tanks appear to be
about $2,000 (plus California 10% sales tax).
From this link, there appear to be only 3 manufacturers (Norwesco, Inc. of
St. Bonifacius, Minnesota, Snyder Industries of Lincoln, Nebraska and RMI
in Gardena, California).
http://www.winebusiness.com/wbm/?go=getArticle&dataId=50707
They advertise a one to three year warranty for the poly tanks but say they
can last 15 years or more.
The tanks I have are welded painted steel, not corrogated or galvanized.
Looking that up, it appears the major players are "All State Tanks" of
Grove, Oklahoma, and "Columbia TecTank" of Kansas City, Kansas, both of
whom mostly erect the tanks in the field.
The web site above says "A 5,000 gallon steel tank may cost $3 per gallon"
so that's what the well guy must be talking about when he told me it would
be $20,000 to replace my 5,000 gallon steel tank.
Godspeed
> If the leak is on the bottom, it may be difficult to get to.
Do you think they can get to it from the inside or that they will have to
get to it from the outside?
Godspeed
> send me photos and I'll coach you from there...
Hi Jim,
I'm gonna take some pics in the daylight and send them off to you (and
maybe post them somehow) but that's a GREAT idea to see if I can put a
bladder in!
You can see the tanks from Google maps so I'll give you the coordinates but
they are too tiny on google to discern much other than they are there.
Godspeed
> If these large tanks are common in the area, there might be some place
> that specializes in installing a plastic bladder liner in them to extend
> their useable lifespan.
That's an interesting idea! I hadn't thought of putting a bladder in. Seems
to me that just might work. If they exist.
I'm gonna call some of these suppliers of water tanks tomorrow and ask
about bladders.
1. All State Tanks Grove, OK 918-787-2600 www.allstatetank.com
Bolted Steel 5,000 to 3 million
2. B & H Tanks Madera, CA 800-464-2951 www.bhtank.com
Corrigated/bolted Steel 1,000 to 150,000
3. Columbian TecTank Kansas City, Kansas 913-621-3700
www.columbiantectank.com Bolted/Welded Steel 4,000 to 2.5 million
4. Glazier & Glazier Penngrove, CA 707-792-9292 na Concrete 5,000
to 10,500
5. Norwesco, Inc. St. Bonifacius, Minn. 800-328-3420 www.norwesco.com
Poylethylene To 10,500
6. RMI Gardena, CA 310-327-5401 www.rotonics.com Polyethylene To
10,500
7. Snyder Industries Lincoln, Nebraska 402-467-5221 www.snydernet.com
Polyethylene To 10,500
8. Xerxes Minneapolis, Minn. 952-887-1890 www.xerxescorp.com
Fiberglass 600 to 50,000
Godspeed
>> I can't figure out how one would go about fixing this kind of leak.
>
> If it's that small a leak, and the surrounding material is in good shape,
> they make screw-in patches for those.
That's yet another potentially viable solution.
So far the solution might be:
0. Empty tank and look for the hole on the bottom
1. If small (pin hole size), use a screw-in patch from the inside;
2. If larger, weld a patch plate from the inside;
3. If too large, consider if they make tank-repair bladders;
4. If not, lift the tank, cut off the bottom, & weld on a new bottom;
5. Or, replace the steel tank with a new "poly" tank.
Donald
> That's an interesting idea! I hadn't thought of putting a bladder in. Seems
> to me that just might work. If they exist.
Check local codes, especially fire protection codes, to see if it's legal
to add a bladder which could melt in a fire and which would have to have
openings for the valves.
Pete C.
Either of those methods would probably work. A simpler method would
probably be to just gradually jack it up a couple feet on cribbing and
then work on replacing a section at a time, moving the cribbing as
needed, since the replacement metal will be likely be in 4x8 sheets.
DD_BobK
OP-
I cannot take credit for being the first one to suggest cutting off
the bottom.
Jim (the professional welder) suggested it & in a subsequent post he
offered to coach you on the repair.
Please find a photo positing site & post some photos (a couple overall
installation views & some detailed ones) so everyone in this NG can
see what's up.
Approximateing where is this property? San Diego county or NorCal?
I'm no well expert but dropping 15' in an hour to supply 360 gallons
seems like a lot BUT you probably need 400 less than that per DAY.
If oyu want to struggle by for now...get someone to re-pipe (or do it
yourself) the pump output so you can fill either or both tanks at your
choice (valves in the pump line at ground level that feed each tank)
Isolate the leaker and only fill it in fire season for the next year
or so while you save money for the repalcement.
cheers
Bob
I think most of the guys in this NG participate as much learn as to
help...see new & different problems and their solutions help us all.
cheers
Bob
dpb
I'd guess there are a number of other suppliers as well; there are
several more in this area than those because of the demand for ag use
tanks; depending on where in CA you are I'd expect the same for that
purpose or for the specific purposes/needs you outline.
As for the various other options --
I'd still say odds are quite high that the cost of either the bladder if
available or rigging and welding a new bottom will approach or exceed
the cost of new poly tank.
It's always worth a shot to see if can use the temporary patch that
could extend the life somewhat. My luck in welding on thin bottom of
the smaller round tanks we use (for hauling water for cattle on pasture)
has been mixed--some have turned out so thin burned thru and was given
up on and others still had sufficient overall material w/ just a few
pinholes. It'll all depend on what actually find if go in.
One thing wrt the longevity of the poly tanks -- I presuming you're in
warm weather country otherwise you would have icing problems w/ them
just outside w/ above ground piping. If so, the primary problem is
likely UV even w/ the black poly; since these are stationary application
you could undoubtedly extend lifetime by putting under roof and sun
shade on south/west sides to minimize that cause for deterioration.
--
Steve Barker
> On Wed, 13 Jan 2010 07:33:51 -0800, "Roger Shoaf"
> <sh...@nospamsyix.com> wrote:
>
>> "Godspeed" <gods...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>>> On Wed, 13 Jan 2010 05:43:38 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>>>
>>> The well guy said he never "fixes" leaking water tanks. Said it's like
>>> fixing a radiator on a car. Plug one spot and the hole opens up somewhere
>>> else.
>> Sounds to me like he is incompetent. The only radiator I ever fixed, stayed
>> fixed.
>>
>
> That a pretty small sample.
>
>
Ok, how about this? I've had HUNDREDS of radiators repaired over the
last 30+ years and not a one of them ever developed a leak in another spot.
cl...@snyder.on.ca
Depends on what caused the leak.
MOST radiator leaks that respond well to repairs are mechanical damage
or joint failure. Repairing the mechanical damage or resoldering the
split joint USUALLY make the rad virtually as good as new.
If a rad has corroded through from both sides and the fins have fallen
off, soldering up the resulting leak is a stopgap repair at best.
Same with a water tank.
A pourous weld? - fix it and it will LIOKELY last a long time. A stray
bullet went through it? Fix it and it will last a long time.
A rust blister due to damaged anti-corrosion coating on the outside
(like paint)? Good chance a repaior will last.
If the tank has corroded badly from the inside out, patching one hole
may well be the first of a LONG string of repairs, few if any of which
will be "successfull"
Dean Hoffman
> Anyone know how to fix a leaking 5000 gallon steel water tank on a concrete
> pad?
>
> One of two tanks is leaking from the bottom. Not much, but enough to keep
> the concrete always wet (which likely is rusting it out even more).
>
I haven't seen any mention of products like JB Weld so far.
sa...@dog.com
<ichase...@hotmail.com> wrote:
Ok, how about this? If they sprang the leaks you repaired at an
advanced age, due to corrosion rather than physical damage from
something hitting them, you are either mistaken or lying.
Steve Barker
if the 'advanced age' or corrosion were a problem, then any *GOOD*
radiator man would not repair it. And mine doesn't. He'll recommend a
new core at about half the price of a new radiator.
msgi...@gmail.com
TimR
Water goes bad when it sits around. It grows bacteria, slime, all sorts of nasty stuff.
In your setup the bottom third of at least one tank never drains. Sounds like a recipe for a fungus amongus.
Do you disinfect anywhere? I wouldn't have any qualms about drinking well water direct from the well, provided there's no local contamination. Water that sits in a storage tank is a different story.
vicshan...@gmail.com
> Anyone know how to fix a leaking 5000 gallon steel water tank on a concrete
> pad?
>
> One of two tanks is leaking from the bottom. Not much, but enough to keep
> the concrete always wet (which likely is rusting it out even more).
>
> I can't figure out how one would go about fixing this kind of leak.
Sam Hill
message, the tank rusted out and leaked dry. No fix is necessary now.
Tekkie®
Godspeed.
--
Tekkie