Unfinished edges of finished shelving board

[Steve Kraus]

I have a table I want to cover with a prefinished white shelving board I
can obtain at the home center. I believe it's some sort of pressed wood
product. The shorter shelves have finished edges but the one I am
contemplating is finished on one edge. I don't care about the back as that
would be against a wall but what can I do with the ends? I suppose I could
just sand them nice and smooth and paint with several coats of white
enamel. Or is there something better?

In case it matters the table I wish to cover is 96" x 16." The shelving
board I can get is just a little under that but I think I can make it work.

[Steve Kraus]

Oops make that 96" x just under 18". Not that it matters for my concern.

[DerbyDad03]

You're covering a table? Please explain. What is the table top made out of
now and why do you want to cover it with shelving?

In any case, this is used to dress up the bare edges of the type of shelving
I believe you are talking about:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/3-4-in-x-25-ft-White-Iron-On-Edge-Tape-274431/100559770

[Don Y]

On 5/16/2016 12:02 PM, Steve Kraus wrote:
> I have a table I want to cover with a prefinished white shelving board I
> can obtain at the home center.

Melamine?

> I believe it's some sort of pressed wood
> product. The shorter shelves have finished edges but the one I am
> contemplating is finished on one edge. I don't care about the back as that
> would be against a wall but what can I do with the ends? I suppose I could
> just sand them nice and smooth and paint with several coats of white
> enamel. Or is there something better?

<http://www.homedepot.com/p/3-4-in-x-25-ft-White-Iron-On-Edge-Tape-274431/100559770>

You didn't mention board thickness. You may have to shave this down (AFTER
applying) with something like a draw plane (or a utility knife and a bit of
care)

[gfre...@aol.com]

On Mon, 16 May 2016 12:18:15 -0700, Don Y
<blocked...@foo.invalid> wrote:

><http://www.homedepot.com/p/3-4-in-x-25-ft-White-Iron-On-Edge-Tape-274431/100559770>
>
>You didn't mention board thickness. You may have to shave this down (AFTER
>applying) with something like a draw plane (or a utility knife and a bit of
>care)

There is a purpose built tool, just for this. They sell it at home
depot, right near where you get the veneer edging. It allows you to
trim the edge very precisely.

[hub...@ccanoemail.ca]

I haven't used it in many years, but this type of shelving can be
edge-finished with a pre-glued iron-on strip - bought in a roll.
Practice on a scrap first - it can tend to move around when the
glue melts

https://www.lowes.ca/wood-veneer/bennett-f-white-1316-in-x-8-ft-white-melamine-iron-on-edging_g1441457.html?searchTerm=melamine-edging

Or - a strip of real-wood glue & brad - sometimes this can look
nice - natural wood finish contrasting with the plain melamine.
John T.

[Steve Kraus]

> You're covering a table? Please explain. What is the table top made
> out of now and why do you want to cover it with shelving?

Just a long narrow table with folding legs. Covering because I don't care
for the faux wood finish and I think this would be better than painting it.
I would just shoot a few screws in from the bottom taking care to keep them
shorter than penetrating.

[Steve Kraus]

> Melamine?

Perhaps. Not sure.

> You didn't mention board thickness.

I actually don't remember; 3/4" or 1" I think. Wasn't concerned as the
existing table would provide supportive strength. Just want to improve the
appearance. I may end up buying the board and abandoning the project if I
am not sure that it will.

[DerbyDad03]

If you dress up the edge of the new shelving, won't you still see the edge
of the old table top, i.e. a seam and 2 different colors/material?

Perhaps consider a piece of trim wide enough to cover both edges and hide the
seam. Wood (eventually painted white) or vinyl should work.

[Oren]

Tile?

[DerbyDad03]

I doubt the substrate is solid enough to work for tile, unless you mean
adhesive backed, flexible tile.

[Oren]

Thin tile.

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

On Mon, 16 May 2016 13:03:34 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

Do yourself a BIG favour and forget putting a shelf-board on. Get
yourself some contact cement and some laminate (arborite, or
equivalent) and glue it on. Do the same with the edges. Use a laminate
trimmer bit in your router to finisg the edge of the top and the
edging.

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

Assuming you don't already have a laminate trimmer bit for your
router - but the razor blade tool does work for the melamine edge
trim.

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

It also has a bad habit of coming off - - -

[Steve Kraus]

> Do yourself a BIG favour and forget putting a shelf-board on. Get
> yourself some contact cement and some laminate (arborite, or
> equivalent) and glue it on. Do the same with the edges. Use a laminate
> trimmer bit in your router to finisg the edge of the top and the
> edging.

I will look into that but it's probably more work than I want to invest in
this. Just looking for an easy improvement. Might paint what remains
visible underneath. Existing table edge is probably okay but will have to
think about the rest. Legs are ugly beige.

[Don Y]

Your overall size is odd. But, in the past, I've purchased solid core
wooden doors and "banquet table legs" to fashion nice looking tables.
This gives you a *real* wood table that you can stain to your needs.

[You can also purchase folding saw horse legs (i.e., just add cross
member to make your own saw horse -- of course, if making a TABLE,
then no need for that intermediate step!) Many "banquet table legs"
are flimsy]

For a semi-permanent installation, a couple of 2 drawer file cabinets
(one each end) are a good, practical alternative.

I've used an arrangement like this in my office for 30 years. It
has served me well -- despite having four 100# monitors on it at
one point!

[Micky]

On Mon, 16 May 2016 14:02:52 -0500, Steve Kraus
<scr...@DELETETHISfilmteknik.com> wrote:

I don't know if they sell it in white or in white that will
sufficiently match your white, but I have a formica counter top that
is connected to nothing else. It sits on two little dressers and is
my work bench. It has no finish on the end but I bought a roll of
brown wood grain stick on stuff, and it lasted 20+ years before it
started to fall off. It's still parly on and I intend to glue the
rest back on. I still halve the roll but it required trimming, so
gluing should be easier.

[Micky]

Yeah, tThis is pretty much what I was suggesting in the post which is
now at the end of the thread.

[Tekkie®]

cl...@snyder.on.ca posted for all of us...

> >
> >I doubt the substrate is solid enough to work for tile, unless you mean
> >adhesive backed, flexible tile.
> Do yourself a BIG favour and forget putting a shelf-board on. Get
> yourself some contact cement and some laminate (arborite, or
> equivalent) and glue it on. Do the same with the edges. Use a laminate
> trimmer bit in your router to finisg the edge of the top and the
> edging.

+1 What I would do.

--
Tekkie

[Tekkie®]

cl...@snyder.on.ca posted for all of us...


>

Especially when you catch it with a piece of clothing. Of course if one
likes a flame pattern...

--
Tekkie

[hrho...@att.net]

You could cut 45 degree ends and put 45 degree pieces on each end, but then you would have two 45 degree cuts in the top surfaces at each end, but the actual ends edges would be finished.