Any way to remove rust from screwdriver bits?
Joseph Meehan
oil like WD-20 and spend a little time getting to know those bits.
--
Joseph E. Meehan
26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math
"Igor10152" <ignoram...@NOSPAM.10152.invalid> wrote in message
news:slrnaus7ht.fco...@nospam.invalid...
> I have a box with various screwdriver bits (chrome/vanadium or something
> like that, a hard grey alloy), that rusted for some reason. I would like
> to remove the rust somehow. Does anyone have any simple suggestions such
> as perhaps soaking them in some acid or other compound.
>
> Thanks.
>
> igor
j...@noname.com
>
> I have a box with various screwdriver bits (chrome/vanadium or something
> like that, a hard grey alloy), that rusted for some reason. I would like
> to remove the rust somehow. Does anyone have any simple suggestions such
> as perhaps soaking them in some acid or other compound.
>
> Thanks.
>
> igor
coating on it... might just be better getting a supply of better bits
from sears or other tool supply place... if you do get the rust off you
still will get more later so you gonna have to protect it from rusting
again....
Ed Huntress
>
> igor
>
> * --
> * Joseph E. Meehan
My favorite way to quickly clean rust from simple tools like those is to use
a power wire brush mounted on a bench grinder, which I have handy all the
time, living as I do in Rust Valley.
However, if you want to be chemical about it, there are a few alternatives.
A quick one is to let them soak for a while in dilute hydrochloric acid
("muriatic" acid, sold in hardware stores for the purpose of pre-paint
prepping of old concrete, is around 20%. That's a good dilution, or cut that
with an equal amount of water to make a 10% solution). Do this outdoors and
don't bring an uncapped bottle of hydrochloric into your shop. The vapors
will rust everything in sight. Watch the process; hydrochloric will attack
the base metal if you leave it too long. The result is a very clean surface,
which you'll have to neutralize with some baking soda or washing soda, or
lye, and scrub it good when you're done. Oil immediately, as the cleaned
parts will begin to rust again before you turn around.
Somewhat safer is phosphoric acid. This works slower and doesn't attack the
base metal. You can buy it at pool-supply places or in an expensive, pasty
form called Naval Jelly. It will convert some of the red rust to a black
oxide, which can be tough to remove. I apply it with a small stainless steel
brush or a Scotch-Brite pad (this will abrade the steel) and rub frequently,
which helps keep the black oxide from forming. Again, neutralize, scrub with
detergent and water, and oil immediately.
Some people use glacial acetic acid to loosen rust, but I don't recommend
it. I've tried it many times with generally poor results.
My new favorite way to remove rust is to use the electrolytic method, either
in a tank or with a brush. Ted Edwards has described an excellent method in
a text file somewhere in the dropbox. I've simplified his method for my own
purposes, using a battery charger for the power supply, and it works great.
I've also tried eliminating the sodium silicate from his formula and it
still works fine, although I use the sodium silicate myself. Because this
method uses no acid, it causes fewer problems with after-the-fact
re-rusting. It does leave some black oxide, but, unlike the hard and
strongly-attached black oxide you sometimes get using phosphoric acid, this
stuff is loose and brushes off easily with a fine wire brush.
Have fun.
--
Ed Huntress
(remove "3" from email address for email reply)
Ed Huntress
> So I need some simple process to remove rust from them.
>
> igor
Oh, one more thing, speaking of simple processes. There's another one, which
many people here swear by but which I've never tried. It uses vinegar and
salt. Someone will come along and explain it, I'm sure.
Ed Huntress
>
> Thanks. I used HCl when I was a kid. I think that I will try muriatic
> acid. Just curious, would it be correct to say tat the process is
> quick and I should just watch it happen and perhaps use a mixing stick
> for a few minutes? This is more like a 5 minute process than a half an
> hour process, right?
The time seems to go up exponentially with the thickness of the rust. For
light surface rust, it's more like a one-minute process. But I gave the
treatment to some rusty bolts that took an hour to get them really clean.
nJb
>
> Oh, one more thing, speaking of simple processes. There's another one, which
> many people here swear by but which I've never tried. It uses vinegar and
> salt. Someone will come along and explain it, I'm sure.
>
> --
> Ed Huntress
> (remove "3" from email address for email reply)
Forms a weak HCL among other things
--
Jack
I'm just glad to be a fArt of ann..
Charlie Spitzer
"Igor10152" <ignoram...@NOSPAM.10152.invalid> wrote in message
> I have a box with various screwdriver bits (chrome/vanadium or something
> like that, a hard grey alloy), that rusted for some reason. I would like
> to remove the rust somehow. Does anyone have any simple suggestions such
> as perhaps soaking them in some acid or other compound.
>
> Thanks.
>
> igor
FnP
Available about anywhere. Here is info:
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/Loctite_Products/detail.asp?catid=13&subid=47
&plid=169
Paul
Mary Christmas
So that's where your crippled brain originated.. And you blaming your
inbred parents all of these years. You must have been a terrible
child. Closet-bound and all..
Bob Engelhardt
what's already been said:
- If it attacks the underlying steel, I have not noticed that.
Sometimes I will use HCl to remove galvanizing from clean steel (_really
fast_ BTW). When I'm done, I have very bright, very smooth steel,
without any sign of the steel being eaten (i.e., no pitting).
- I do not neutralize the acid afterwards. I rinse _really_ well with
HOT water and oil immediately. A sodium based neutralizer will form
NaCl (salt), as Gary C. has pointed out. I once had some deep rust
which I removed with HCl, then neutralized and could not keep the rust
from reforming. I attribute that to minute amounts of NaCl in the pits.
- To repeat: DO NOT HAVE OPEN MURIATIC ACID INDOORS!! It is
unbelievable how the rust forms. DAMHIK
Bob
George E. Cawthon
Igor10152 wrote:
>
> I have a box with various screwdriver bits (chrome/vanadium or something
> like that, a hard grey alloy), that rusted for some reason. I would like
> to remove the rust somehow. Does anyone have any simple suggestions such
> as perhaps soaking them in some acid or other compound.
>
> Thanks.
>
> igor
Sure, paint them with Naval Jelly, let set for 30 minutes,
wash in hot water, dry, spray well with WD40, and wipe
clean. If the Naval Jelly doesn't get the rust all off, try
soaking in hydrochloric acid (muriatic acid) for a few
minutes, wash, and redo the Naval Jelly. If the surfaces
are rough, you could polish them in a vibrator.
George E. Cawthon
Igor10152 wrote:
>
> Ed Huntress <hunt...@optonline.net> wrote:
> * "Igor10152" <ignoram...@NOSPAM.10152.invalid> wrote in message
> * news:slrnausbt3.h2n...@nospam.invalid...
> * >
> * > Thanks. I used HCl when I was a kid. I think that I will try muriatic
> * > acid. Just curious, would it be correct to say tat the process is
> * > quick and I should just watch it happen and perhaps use a mixing stick
> * > for a few minutes? This is more like a 5 minute process than a half an
> * > hour process, right?
> *
> * The time seems to go up exponentially with the thickness of the rust. For
> * light surface rust, it's more like a one-minute process. But I gave the
> * treatment to some rusty bolts that took an hour to get them really clean.
>
> The rust on my bits is a little more than thin surface rust, but not
> much more. Thanks for a straight answer Ed, I will try muriatic acid
> (and will keep it under the deck rather than in the shop).
>
> igor
>
> * --
> * Ed Huntress
> * (remove "3" from email address for email reply)
> *
> *
> *
Muriatic acid is pretty dilute HCl, nonetheless, if there is
just thin surface rust, you just put them in a clear soft
drink or water bottle and swirl them around, watching the
action so not too much gets dissolved. Probably less than 2
minutes. OTOH, if it is really thin rust, spraying with
WD40 and wiping may be all you need. In any event, be sure
as soon as you take them from just a water wash or baking
soda wash, spray with WD40. Then apply real oil and wipe
clean.
Edwin Pawlowski
> > like that, a hard grey alloy), that rusted for some reason. I would like
> > to remove the rust somehow.
While you have been given good suggestions, I have another. Toss them. They
may be the cheap variety and you can spend an hour cleaning up a 30¢ bit.
If that is the case, you have to put the value on your time. The cost of a
set of bits can vary depending on quality, from a dime or two at the
discount stores to 50¢ to $1.50 for the pretty good ones at Lee Valley.
www.leevalley.com
You can make them usable with a wire wheel though.
Ed
e...@snet.net
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
banhappinesspills
Isn't it just a waste to clean rust off tools such as shovel and saws.
Doesn't the rust form a coating that keeps the oxygen from oxidizing
any more of the metal? I think this is basically what you said above.
On a related matter, is there any benefit in oiling bolts that you
remove when replacing a part in a car? Is there a benefit to oiling
wrenches etc to protect them?
Phisherman
Or you can purchase an inexpensive small wire-brush wheel and chuck it
in an electric drill. You can keep your bits in a small air-tight
container (such as a tupperware container) with a piece of caulk (or
one drop of kerosene) to prevent rust.
On 4 Dec 2002 15:24:46 GMT, ignoram...@NOSPAM.10152.invalid
Phisherman
of it. The acid would pit and weaken the bits anyway.
TCS
>Do not use acid. There's always an issue where to store it or dispose
>of it. The acid would pit and weaken the bits anyway.
Especially bits that are so junky as to rust in the first place.
Cape Cod Bob
favorite of those restoring old tools.
http://www.bhi.co.uk/hints/rust.htm
http://www.intricatearticles.com/personal/rustfaq.html
CapeCodBob
"He would be wood, if he could, but he's knot"
Visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~bobmethelis/
David L Peterson
>Isn't it just a waste to clean rust off tools such as shovel and saws.
>Doesn't the rust form a coating that keeps the oxygen from oxidizing
>any more of the metal? I think this is basically what you said above.
Try shoving a rusty saw through a tight kerf some time. If you keep
cutting you will eventually rub the saw shiny again and it works a lot
easier. A light coat of oil keeps you from having to use a rusty saw
again. Do it once, and next time you will decide it's worth cleaning
the rust off first. As for shovels and hoes and such. Depends on the
dirt you are shoveling. A rusty shovel will not scour. Dirt and mud
will stick to it. Dig out a leaky water pipe sometime where you have
to whack the shovel against a board to get each shovel full of mud to
come loose and you will REALLY wish the mud didn't stick to it. No
big deal if you are just planting a few flowers. If you are digging
out a water pipe you don't want the shovel any heavier than it needs
to be. Do this next to a guy who takes proper care of his equipment
and you'll feel like a real fool.
>On a related matter, is there any benefit in oiling bolts that you
>remove when replacing a part in a car?
Depends on the part. Best bet is to clean them up with a wire brush
(or wire wheel if you have one) so all the rust is gone. Manifold
bolts may seize if you oil them (they get too hot) Most everything
else it's a good idea to give them a drop or two as it will keep them
from rusting should you ever need to remove them again. Appropriate
torque values are published for both oiled and unoiled fasteners.
Always make sure you use the right specs.
>Is there a benefit to oiling
>wrenches etc to protect them?
Generally oiled wrenches produce excessive cussing. Don't store them
where they will be wet and they will be fine. They usually get plenty
oily just working on stuff. Just keep them wiped clean. They are
tough. Slippery wrenches are never a nice thing.
Hope that helps.
Dave
Gary Coffman
>- I do not neutralize the acid afterwards. I rinse _really_ well with
>HOT water and oil immediately. A sodium based neutralizer will form
>NaCl (salt), as Gary C. has pointed out. I once had some deep rust
>which I removed with HCl, then neutralized and could not keep the rust
>from reforming. I attribute that to minute amounts of NaCl in the pits.
I've never found a neutralization step necessary. Boiling water will
remove any chloride residue. But if you do neutralize, you must then
rinse in boiling water to remove any chloride salt that has formed. In
other words, you can't just rinse, neutralize, and oil. You have to rinse
after the neutralization step or you're likely to have continuing rusting
problems.
Gary
Allan
they all seem to contain some kind of nasty acids and can be very
corrosive! Definately a No No with antique clocks.
However, I have a solution (pardon the pun:-)), and this is not a wind
up, although I thought it was myself when I first heard of it - until
I tried it and I've used nothing else since!!
The answer lies in every kitchen cupboard (at least in the UK, and
probably over most of the world.) It is TEA!!
Get some ordinary run of the mill everyday tea bags, boil about a pint
(1/2 litre) of water and add about 4 or 5 tea bags,or teaspoons full
if you can't get bags, ie. a strong mix of tea. Stir well and let this
brew for a few minutes and remove the bags or strain the liquid to
remove the tea leaves. Let it cool down for 10 minutes or so and then
put your rusty steel parts in there, fully submerged. Depending on how
rusty they are, leave them in there for between 1 and 8 hours - keep
having a look now and again to see how they are doing.
What is happening I am told, is that the (very weak) Tannic acid is
attacking the rust, neutralising it and turning the residue into a
rust preventitive. I am not a chemist, so I can not vouch for the
exact truth of this. What I do know is that when the parts are removed
from the tea, they are a grey/blue colour, and when rubbed up with
very fine wire wool and oil, take on a very acceptable steel
appearance with any deep pitting left a dark grey.
After this treatment, clean by your usual methods (ultrasonic tank or
whatever). The parts don't seem to suffer any harm, brass doesn't seem
to be affected and the bits don't go rusty again, AND IT'S CHEAP!
The more sceptical amongst you may prefer to use either Earl Grey or
Lapsang Suchong for delicate parts such as carriage clocks and
traditional strong Yorkshire Brew for more robust items:-)
Try it, IT WORKS.
Alan Timmins, F.B.H.I.
Senior Instructor (Clocks) B.H.I. Upton Hall, UK.
Goedjn
> * What is happening I am told, is that the (very weak) Tannic acid is
> * attacking the rust, neutralising it and turning the residue into a
Note that Tannic iron is a major component of (some) black ink(s).
Be careful what you get the stuff on.
Gfretwell
with a solvent like mineral spirits or kerosene. It doesn't "remove" the rust
but it does stabilize the metal and polishes to a nice bronze patina when you
wipe it with a rag.