Mixing small batches of joint compound
jdgri...@ngcsu.edu
planning on finishing the seams with fiberglass mesh tape (except the
inside corners, which will use steel-reinforced paper; there are no
outside corners in the room). Fiberglass mesh tape requires
setting-type joint compound for the first coat. Fortunately, one such
compound (Sheetrock Easy Sand, in various setting timeframes) is
available at the local big-box hardware stores. Unfortunately, the
packaging only lists the mixing proportions for mixing the entire bag
at once! Needless to say, I don't need 18 pounds of compound to finish
this small of an area. However, scaling down the "recipe" poses a
problem because I do not have a weighing device that is accurate enough
to weigh the joint compound. What I need is the mixing proportions by
volume (in other words, the ratio of volume of powdered compound to
volume of water). What proportions are generally used by people who
have worked with this compound? I wasn't able to find any information
on this on Sheetrock's website.
Also, do you need to use a drill attachment to mix the compound, or can
you do this effectively with a wooden stick or dowel?
Thanks in advance.
PipeDown
for drywall mud, I get premix in a bucket or box.
Usually I dump a bunch in a bucket then pick that up and weigh myself
holding it on a bathroom scale then put the bucket down and subtract what I
weigh by myself.
Or you can just divide the bag in to 2, 4, or 8 parts by volume or weight
then divide the water by the same.
The simplest method is to just add small amounts of water until it is the
right consistancy (adding more powder if you end up adding too much water)
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Colbyt
I hope this rambling answer helps you.
Don't buy anything faster than 45. If you are a real beginner stick with
90.
Find a measuring cup or bowl and a water measuring container. You will only
need to use trial and error for the first batch.
Hand mix only batches that are 1/4 bag or smaller. Electric mixers or over
mixing speeds up the setting process. I find a shallow wide container easier
than a deep narrow one. I also have a large rubber kitchen spatula and a
slotted metal spoon for mixing.
The trick to doing this right is to add the water slowly and get all the
powder wet and lumpy. Let it sit for 1-3 minutes. Then come back and add
more water and mix to a smooth consistency. Note the total amount of water
and measures of powder used. Use this process every time you mix because
the amount of powder will vary based on the "fluff" basis of the powder.
Never add extra water after the second mixing. You will ruin the setting
properties.
I have not measured a partial batch for so long that I can't give you any
approximates. I am going to mix a very baby match on Tuesday and will post
those numbers for you but those will also be so small as to be of no help.
You want a thicker mix for bedding the tape than you want for topping.
Leaving you for now with this final thought. For the second mixing it
ALWAYS easier to add water than powder. Never add water or powder after the
second mixing.
Email works if you remove the obvious.
Colbyt
Joey
The 'fast dry' is made to use in areas that are 'thick'. It's best in
normal areas to use the premix in the pail. If you're afraid of it
drying out put about a 1/4 inch of water on top after you use some and
the next time just pour the water off before using. It will last a long
time.
J
RicodJour
jdgri...@ngcsu.edu wrote:
> I'm currently installing drywall in a 20x18 (approx.) room, and I am
> planning on finishing the seams with fiberglass mesh tape (except the
> inside corners, which will use steel-reinforced paper; there are no
> outside corners in the room). Fiberglass mesh tape requires
> setting-type joint compound for the first coat.
I believe that the only limitation with the mesh tape is that you're
not supposed to use lightweight joint compound...even though I know a
number of people that do use lightweight for bedding the tape with
apparently no ill effect.
Setting type compound is great if you're in a rush to get several coats
on in a day. It's doubtful whether you'd do more than one coat a day
anyway, so I'd probably stick with the bucket.
R
Bob (but not THAT Bob)
>
> Who says that you need fast setting mud for fiberglass tape.
>
USG - the drywall mfr.
Rudy
> packaging only lists the mixing proportions for mixing the entire bag
> at once! Needless to say, I don't need 18 pounds of compound to finish
> this small of an area.
Buy premixed, ready to use: It comes in smaller plastic tubs than the 18#
box, right down to about 1#
marad...@unlisted.com
time. You dont need to measure all that stuff. You are not cooking a
fancy meal.....
No drill mixer needed either. Mix any way you want.
Chris Lewis
Here, HD has CGC 90 in what I think are 2 pound boxes.
I _think_ it said 3 parts compound to 1 part water, but I'm
not sure.
I've been so used to the readymix, I've not tried the setting
type before. But I just bought one of the aforesaid small boxes
to try it out.
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.
jgodean
The bag says it holds 18lbs. Weighing one cup of the powder, the weight is
7.2oz. 18lbs is 288 oz. That means one cup is 2.5% of the overall weight
The specifications say to use 5-6 quarts of water. We'll take the median
which is 5.5 quarts, or 176 oz. 2.5% of 176 oz is 4.4oz. That means that
you should use 4.4 ounces of water per (level) dry cup of compound.
--
posted from
http://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/mixing-small-batches-of-joint-compound-118813-.htm
RoyalPayne
Thank you jgodean. This is EXACTLY what I was hoping to find for my situation.
Love that some one would take the time to actually do the math, which is not
my strong point.
DerbyDad03
> replying to jgodean, RoyalPayne wrote:
> Thank you jgodean. This is EXACTLY what I was hoping to find for my situation.
> Love that some one would take the time to actually do the math, which is not
> my strong point.
>
James G. Olmstead-Dean
I actually found the median to be a little wet. I made up a spreadsheet which
is a little messy but if you want to copy it, you can tinker with the amounts:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1LNaRWNxGijaL4geNeBxet4gs3lblYX8qt9WZncvu2A0/edit?usp=sharing
RoyalPayne
Nope, just glad someone did the math for me. 10 years? not getting the time
reference....I just read a thread that popped up in response to my query. My
situation had just come up, and had plenty to do until there was a answer.
RoyalPayne
Replying to James G. Thanks for that info. I also found the mixture to be a
little wet. Sloppy actually. So I did what I was warned not to do, I added
more powder. Then more, and finally a little more water. Perfect. It went on
well, dried faster than I thought, and sanded wonderfully. So....based solely
on my experiments....go for mixing, and adding, water and powder however you
so desire.
DerbyDad03
> replying to DerbyDad03, RoyalPayne wrote:
> Nope, just glad someone did the math for me. 10 years? not getting the time
> reference....I just read a thread that popped up in response to my query. My
> situation had just come up, and had plenty to do until there was a answer.
>
The previous response in thread was dated 6/16/2006, thus the "10 year time reference".
I guess the real question is "Why did jgodean wait 10 years to post a response
to jdgrii8338's original question?"
Eryq
Given that 4.4 oz of water is 0.55 cups, that gives you ~0.5 cup water to 1.0
cup of dry compound, or roughly a 1:2 ratio of water:powder. I was just
working with the stuff today (for the first time) and that was my experience.
--
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Thriftygypsyco
You’re a wizard! Thank you for taking the time to break this all down for us
lazy folk!
--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/mixing-small-batches-of-joint-compound-118813-.htm
Greg
--
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