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GE dishwasher not draining

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RAhrens

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Dec 21, 1998, 3:00:00 AM12/21/98
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I have a 14 year old GE Potscrubber 900 (GSD900D-03) that does not consistently
drain completely. Sometimes there is enough water to cover the bottom of the
tub and sometimes only a puddle around the sump. Changed the drain hose,
checked the garbage disposal inlet and cleaned out the sump. Still get water
left in tub. When it drains, it does so with a lot of force, but stops before
it is empty. Drain solenoid seems to be working well. Pulls gate valve arm
open completely and holds it there. If I turn dial after cycle ahead to drain,
it will drain the rest of the water. Would appreciate any ideas.

Robert Gracie

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Dec 21, 1998, 3:00:00 AM12/21/98
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It is normal for there to water above the sump area on that model
dishwasher. How this unit works is...the timer send voltage to the drain
solenoid for a short period of time, then disconnects the power. The water
pressure that is created by the pump is what **keeps** the drain valve open,
until the water pressure/volume is low enough for the drain valve spring to
overcome and the valve closes. I assume that you have cleaned the air gap
out?

--


Robert Gracie
Gracie Appliance, Heating & Air Conditioning, Inc.
Come Visit Us!
www.GracieAppliance.com


RAhrens wrote in message <19981221114035...@ng31.aol.com>...

RAhrens

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Dec 21, 1998, 3:00:00 AM12/21/98
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I thought the air gap was the highest point of the drain line that is above the
level of the garbage disposal drain. I cut the hose there and it was clean.
Replaced the hose since I had cut it.

If this is not the air gap that I need to clean, please let me know.

Robert Gracie

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Dec 21, 1998, 3:00:00 AM12/21/98
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**If** you have an air gap, it will be located on the top of your sink.
It;s a small round dome. Not all setups incorporate the use of an
air-gap....

--


Robert Gracie
Gracie Appliance, Heating & Air Conditioning, Inc.
Come Visit Us!
www.GracieAppliance.com


RAhrens wrote in message <19981221165548...@ng115.aol.com>...

RAhrens

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Dec 22, 1998, 3:00:00 AM12/22/98
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I do not have an air gap. When you say that it is normal for water to remain
above the sump, how much water should be there? Sometime it is only a couple
inches out from the basket that covers the sump, but sometimes it cover the
bottom of the tub completely. Does it make a difference if the washer drains
into a disposal versus draining into drain pipe?

As I started looking into the drain problem, I noticed the water level during
the first cycle is not as high as GE recommends. It should be 3/8" to 3/4"
above the plateau in the bottom of the tub. My water levels only reaches the
top of the plateau. Cleaned the screen and inlet valve. Screen was full of
sediment, but no improvement. Should I be concerned about the water level?

Robert Gracie

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Dec 22, 1998, 3:00:00 AM12/22/98
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I would not worry about the water level at this time. I would try to
determine the drain problem first.

The water level should not be more then the sump grate after draining.
Basically you should not be able to see the water when the sump grate is in
place.

As long as the disposal drain port is clear (you said you cleaned) and as
long as the sink is draining properly (not leaving food in the disposal)
that end of it should have nothing to do with it.

I did have a call a couple of weeks ago on a K/A dishwasher that would not
drain correctly all the time. We were the third company out to effect
repair. So I let the unit run through a couple of cycles, everything was
working great. So I let it run through a couple of more cycles and sure
enough the unit did not drain correctly on the last cycle. After surveying
the entire unit. I found a hidden kink in the drain line. It would kink
when the line became hot enough,and work fine when it cooled. Strange
indeed!!

I would suspect either a pump problem or a timer problem. If

I assume you are checking the unit right after the cycle has completed and
not few days later?
--


Robert Gracie
Gracie Appliance, Heating & Air Conditioning, Inc.
Come Visit Us!
www.GracieAppliance.com


RAhrens wrote in message <19981222121734...@ng98.aol.com>...

RAhrens

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Dec 23, 1998, 3:00:00 AM12/23/98
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I mentioned the water level just in case it could be a related problem. I have
been checking at the end of each cycle.

The drain hose I removed looked like it could have been kinking where it went
through the sink cabinet. When I installed the new line, I ran it so it would
not have the same pressure point to cause a kink.

The old drain line and disposal inlet are spotless. Disposal drains fine when
used. When the dishwasher empties, it does back up to the rubber deflector.
It has always done this and I have never liked it. It is also very noisy when
it empties. Have always wondered if draining directly to the drain line would
be quieter and now I wonder if it would drain better.

If I drained it into a bucket, would that help isolate the problem? It might
tell me if it is a drain problem or a dishwasher problem. If you think this
would work, how much water will I get? It looks like just a couple of gallons.
A 5 gallon bucket would work?

Thanks for sticking with me on this. Any ideas are appreciated.

Robert Gracie

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Dec 23, 1998, 3:00:00 AM12/23/98
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Well you need to correct why the sink is not draining correctly. This is
especially true if you have no kind of air break installed in the drain
line. That will allow ANY water that has not drained to re-enter the
dishwasher.


When you installed the new drain line, did you loop the drain line to the
bottom of the counter? This is in effect a siphon break and serves a
similar purpose of a air_gap..

You can try to drain in a LARGE bucket, but remember when doing this make
sure the bucket is at the same height as the disposal is at. This will
maintain existing parameters, excluding the disposal/sink drain...

Let us know!!

--


Robert Gracie
Gracie Appliance, Heating & Air Conditioning, Inc.
Come Visit Us!
www.GracieAppliance.com


RAhrens wrote in message <19981222210610...@ng-ft1.aol.com>...

Micro*

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Dec 23, 1998, 3:00:00 AM12/23/98
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Robert Gracie wrote in message <75pu6c$tf3$1...@nw003t.infi.net>...

>Well you need to correct why the sink is not draining correctly. This is
>especially true if you have no kind of air break installed in the drain
>line. That will allow ANY water that has not drained to re-enter the
>dishwasher.
>
>
> When you installed the new drain line, did you loop the drain line to the
>bottom of the counter? This is in effect a siphon break and serves a
>similar purpose of a air_gap..
>
> You can try to drain in a LARGE bucket, but remember when doing this make
>sure the bucket is at the same height as the disposal is at. This will
>maintain existing parameters, excluding the disposal/sink drain...
>
>Let us know!!
>
>--
>
>
>Robert Gracie
>Gracie Appliance, Heating & Air Conditioning, Inc.
>Come Visit Us!
>www.GracieAppliance.com


Hi,
I recently had both problems mentioned, on the same model dishwasher. Low
water fill was fixed by replacing the fill solenoid, the non emptying
problem was the anti backup thingie in the drain line right in the front of
the unit.(white plastic hex shaped thing) There is a little round rubber
flap inside that broke loose and would wedge in the drain fitting and
prevent total emptying.
At least that fixed mine.

"Shut up an keep diggen"
Jerry

Robert Gracie

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Dec 23, 1998, 3:00:00 AM12/23/98
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Are you sure yours is a GE?? I have never seen a check valve on a GE unit.
What you have described sounds like KA or WP....Possible WCI also..

--


Robert Gracie
Gracie Appliance, Heating & Air Conditioning, Inc.
Come Visit Us!
www.GracieAppliance.com


Micro* wrote in message <75q1bl$p...@bgtnsc02.worldnet.att.net>...

RAhrens

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Dec 23, 1998, 3:00:00 AM12/23/98
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I did run the drain line from the bottom of the dishwasher up to the bottom of
the counter then down to the disposal. At the time the dishwasher stops
pumping water into the disposal, the disposal is filled with water and the
outlet is submerged. For the loop to work, wouldn't it need a chance to get
air in it? Mine wouldn't be able to suck air for a few seconds after pumping
has stopped. This sounds like a time for some of the water to back up into
dishwasher. If I try draining into a bucket, this will prove dishwasher is ok.
If it is a slow disposal, I guess I'll have to check drain lines. I'll be
sure to keep end of hose at same level as disposal inlet. Thanks again for
hanging in there.

hsherman

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Dec 23, 1998, 3:00:00 AM12/23/98
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It depends upon what device is timing the draining duration. It could be a cam out
of position(set screw loose on the cam shaft). If it's timed electronically, an
electronic part may have to be replaced. It might be the micro switch that has
moved in relationship to the cam that activates it. It might be the micro switch
lever and/or spring???

RAhrens wrote:

> I have a 14 year old GE Potscrubber 900 (GSD900D-03) that does not consistently

> drain completely. Sometimes there is enough water to cover the bottom of the

Micro*

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Dec 24, 1998, 3:00:00 AM12/24/98
to

Robert Gracie wrote in message <75qtic$cgv$1...@nw001t.infi.net>...

>Are you sure yours is a GE?? I have never seen a check valve on a GE unit.
>What you have described sounds like KA or WP....Possible WCI also..
>

Yup, GE Model GSD1200D.

Sounds to me like his problem is more like a slow disposer drain causing
backup. Although it looks like the check valve would prevent this if it were
working.

Robert Gracie

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Dec 24, 1998, 3:00:00 AM12/24/98
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Welll I'll Beeeee.......

--


Robert Gracie
Gracie Appliance, Heating & Air Conditioning, Inc.
Come Visit Us!
www.GracieAppliance.com


Micro* wrote in message <75sim3$r...@bgtnsc03.worldnet.att.net>...

tim...@my-dejanews.com

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Dec 25, 1998, 3:00:00 AM12/25/98
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This may or may not help and I am definately coming in on the end of a
discussion of which this may have already been tried. I have a GE 1250
Potscrubber that occasionally refuses to drain on the final cycle and leaves
"stuff" all over the dishes. My experience has been if I remove the plastic
drain cover in the bottom dishes compartment, there is a rubber basin area
about 5" deep. Inside this area I have found a number of things from plastic
wrap to popsicle sticks to popcorn hulls that will get sucked up into a
screen in the side of this basin. This is a "by feel" project, is easy to
clean, but usually results in getting the black rubber all over my right hand
as I clean out the crap. Again, I'm no pro but this has worked for me. Good
Luck.

DANTIM

In article <75sim3$r...@bgtnsc03.worldnet.att.net>,


"Micro*" <JSME...@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
>
> Robert Gracie wrote in message <75qtic$cgv$1...@nw001t.infi.net>...
> >Are you sure yours is a GE?? I have never seen a check valve on a GE unit.
> >What you have described sounds like KA or WP....Possible WCI also..
> >
>
> Yup, GE Model GSD1200D.
>
> Sounds to me like his problem is more like a slow disposer drain causing
> backup. Although it looks like the check valve would prevent this if it were
> working.
>
> "Shut up an keep diggen"
> Jerry
>
>

-----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----------
http://www.dejanews.com/ Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own

RAhrens

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Dec 27, 1998, 3:00:00 AM12/27/98
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Well now that I survived Christmas, I had a chance to get back to my draining
problem. I ran the dishwasher through a cycle with the drain line run to a 5
gallon bucket. The drain hose was held at the same level as the disposal
inlet. I only tried this for one cycle, but still had water left in the tub.
As I mentioned previously, sometimes the water covers the bottom of the tub
completely and sometimes it only covers a couple of inches around the sump
strainer. When I drained it into the bucket, the water left was only a couple
of inches around the strainer. Without running a few cycles, it is hard to say
if any better. If I should not see any water, then it did not solve problem.

I looked for the anti backup valve as suggested. Could not find a white
plastic hex shaped thing in front of unit. With the front panel off, all I see
is the motor with the drain solenoid next to it. Could you be more specific as
to the location?

I'm open for any suggestions. I guess I could add an air gap or anti backup
valve, but since this set up worked for years, there must be something that is
not working properly. Would rather find and repair.

Donald R. Yearwood

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Dec 27, 1998, 3:00:00 AM12/27/98
to

While I did not pick up this complete thread, I though I would mention
that when an older dishwasher retained water at the end of the cycle, I
always (15 times) found foreign matter (piece of a pit, a nut, etc.) at
the inlet side of the selinoid drain valve. Remove inlet hose and look
in valve inlet and blow out with a straw. Keep a low sided pan
available to catch water when hose is removed.

Micro*

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Dec 28, 1998, 3:00:00 AM12/28/98
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RAhrens wrote in message <19981227140030...@ng154.aol.com>...

>I looked for the anti backup valve as suggested. Could not find a white
>plastic hex shaped thing in front of unit. With the front panel off, all I
see
>is the motor with the drain solenoid next to it. Could you be more
specific as
>to the location?

Hi,
It seems not all GE dishwashers have this valve, mine is model GSD1200G, the
valve is right in the front dead center behind the base panel. On this model
the drain hose comes from the pump and loops around the front with the valve
in the center and then loops back around the back and out. I have also found
that after using liquid dishwasher soap (Cascade) there is a very thick
buildup of white crusty stuff in all the hoses andon every part the water
touches, after cleaning this crust off everything switched back to powdered
Cascade and no more crust?? This incrustation was 1/4 inch thick in hidden
places (like in the cup of the float valve). Whatever this crust is it is
NOT mineral deposits from the water, vinegar will not touch it, you have to
break it up and scrape it off. May or may not be affecting your draining
problem but caused slow draining in mine.(Part of the original problems).

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