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Any comments/suggestions appreciated!
<chu...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1160760511.5...@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
And if anything, I'd pass judgement on someone using the 5" filter as
being overy paranoid or succeptable to marketing gimmicks.
I would keep the better filtering capability. Of course I have
allergies.
You can use a cheap 1" filter. You likely should replace it more often
and it will not provide a good a filtering job, but any good 1" filter will
protect your furnace, which is the first reason for a filter. You will need
to make some sort of adapter to hold it and fit the spot.
--
Joseph Meehan
Dia duit
This may induce less flowrate if the 5" has the same amount of air
resistance as 1 1" filter, though.
--
May no harm befall you,
flip
Ich habe keine Ahnung was das bedeutet, oder vielleicht doch?
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Steve Barker
<scott...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1160766972....@i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
Perhaps you could use 5 of the 1" variety, and cycle them (replace the
front one and add a new one to the back whenever the pack needs
refreshing).
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Not good. The additional air resistance could damage your air handler.
That assumes there IS "additional air resistance." I don't think that
has been demonstrated.
While it would depend on the specific filters, I is a very good bet it
would increase the resistance unless you were using some very cheap poor
quality filters, and maybe even for those.
I built a wooden frame that fit in my 5 inch media slot and which accepted
standard one inch media.
The problem with 5 inch is that it "looks" dirty just as fast as one inch and
nobody will tell you "for certain" how long you should use the filter before
replacing and the HVAC crowd is always warning us about not letting the filter
get too clogged. Well if you don't have a pressure meter how do you tell this?
With a three to five dollar one inch filter I can take the attitude "if in doubt
replace it". That gets pretty expensive with five inch media. The stuff that
came in my furnace was over forty dollars a pop.
The 3M will be excessively loading the fan in under 90 days, in many
cases, under 30 days, costs $15-$20 and has to be replaced 4 or more
times a year.
The 5"filter won't get to the same back pressure as the 3M for 9 months
to 12 months or longer.
Spend $45 once a year and trap more dirt and let your furnace run more
efficiently, or spend $80 a year...
Build a meter?
Buy:
two or three feet of clear vinyl tubing (small diameter)
two fittings for tubing to threaded
(bulkhead fittings would be best, but more costly)
mount both fittings into sheet metal duct work, one on each side of
filter -- upstream and downstream air flow. (Idea is that air handler
can suck air thru them.) Make sure fittings are close enough together
that tubing will hang down in a loose loop between them.
Fill tubing about 1/4 to 1/2 way with water. (Could add some food
coloring to make the level easier to see.)
Connect both ends of tubing to fittings. (Easiest with air handler
OFF.)
Note water level (might want to mark it) with air handler off. It
should be equal on both legs.
Note water level with air handler on. With even a clean filter the legs
will likely now be offset a little bit (downstream leg higher).
Water will move closer and closer to the downstream side of the filter
as filter restriction increases. Too much restriction and you will have
to refill the tube. :) (If you can find a little floating ball that
will just barely freely fit inside the tubing, put it in the downstream
side and it will prevent most of the water sucking out. Another ball on
the upstream side makes it easy to see water levels.)
sdb
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sdbuse1 on mailhost bigfoot.com
> That's a pretty good idea really. Although if you didn't want to mess with
> water and such I think you could do the same with a couple of cheap
> barometers one on each side.
The advantage to the water-in-tube approach, is it is self-calibrating
and balancing for filter restriction. A pair of cheap barometers might
work, but there may be issues...
1) how do you attach them to measure the ductwork? Look for ones that
have a fitting for tubing on their pressure bubble, and you'll still
need the tubing fittings in your ductwork.
2) Look at all the cheap barometers in the store. Pick two that read
the same. Suprising how many don't. :( Or just use one.
3) What range and precision will they read? We only need relative
accuracy, but we need moderately high precision at one end of a large
offset from ambient pressure in order see the effect of filter
restriction.
Honeywell sells a "filter" change meter. [It is a simple "flag" meter that
attaches to the return air plenum.] By measuring the static it can be
adjusted to "flag" when the draw becomes excessive. Cute little gadget.
--
Zyp
"sylvan butler" <ZsdbUse1+...@Zbigfoot.Zcom.invalid> wrote in message
news:slrnejagtt.thm.Z...@sdba64.internal...
Sounds interesting. Couldn't find it. Have a link?
Find it near the bottom of the Honeywell Whole House Filters page.
> www.filters-now.com sells one from GeneralAire.$14.99.
>
> Find it near the bottom of the Honeywell Whole House Filters page.
http://www.filters-now.com/products/dhw.html
That's darn slick.
Unfortunately I have no ducting between the filter and the furnace cold air
return. The filter box is mounted immediately to the furnace's side. Would the
probe for that thing work if it were just placed inside the squirrel-cage area
of the blower?
Make sure that the fan can't draw air around your probe. Seal the
opening well.