Well water-dirty/slow flow in tub
Lynne Stewart
surely gotten better, but it's still there. sorta hazy.
I've never been on a well system before. We close tomorrow and don't know if
this needs addressed. Will it continue to improve over time? Is it something
we should get used to? Is it something that needs to be addressed? I want to
go prepared to the sales center (for sort of a pre-close) and know what to
press issue-wise and what not to press.
On a similar vein, water pressure throughout the house seems pretty good,
nice flow, except in the master bath at the end of the house. It's one of
those whirlpool tubs and I can see it taking three hours to fill it's so
slow!! It's not a dribble, but it's a much lighter flow then the second
bathroom's tub or the shower in the same room....any thoughts? I'll be
asking them about this as well, but want to go into it with some sort of
knowledge ;) We have a 2300 SG manufactured home- 2 baths. Well was rated at
10 gallons a minute...
I'm cross posting this to alt.home.repair in case the bathtub flow is a
repair issue!
Lynne
George
a few months, I needed to have a new pump installed in our 100 foot well.
For the first few hours after installation, I had to run the pump almost
constantly through a hose into the yard because the water was so
disgusting. Over the course of several days, the color and taste improved
considerably. Within a week, the water was crystal clear. Just give it a bit
of time. Good luck. -George
"Lynne Stewart" <ly...@jklm.net> wrote in message
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Don S
The driller told him not to use the water until pumped continuosly for at
least a week. The water was kinda nasty at first but after a week it was
clear as a mountain stream.
"Lynne Stewart" <ly...@jklm.net> wrote in message
news:c4ui9.28770$jF4.2...@twister.southeast.rr.com...
Gary Slusser
"Lynne Stewart" <ly...@jklm.net> wrote
The water can clear in time or not. It could be the well driller didn't
develop the well enough, or a lot of that if not all would be gone. Of
course that's as long as the color isn't from iron etc.. If it is then
you would need water treatment.
As to the tub, it could be the line feeding it isn't large enough, or
you need more pressure or there is some sort of water conservation
feature in the faucet. Also, something could be blocking the valve or
any faucet tip aerator.
Even though you go thru closing my guess would be that you can go back
on either the plumber or well driller if something is wrong. Of course I
could be wrong if you are not their customer. In most cases the color of
the water doesn't mean there's something wrong with the construction of
the well, you may simply have to pump it until it clears. Just don't run
the well out of water and burn up the pump. Any air in the water shut
off the pump for a an hour or two so the well can recover before pumping
again. Call the well driller and ask for their suggestions. Try the
plumber too, assuming you don't have a contractor.
Gary
Quality Water Associates
Goedjn
> I'm curious. Our new well has brown, sorta silty water. Over the week it has
> surely gotten better, but it's still there. sorta hazy.
> I've never been on a well system before. We close tomorrow and don't know if
> this needs addressed. Will it continue to improve over time? Is it something
It's a little late to worry about in now, isn't it?
Anyway, when you get a chance, but before you start actually
DRINKING the water, take samples to a water analysis company,
and get a full well-scan. (In RI, that costs about $240), and they
test for bateria, mineral contaminants, "turbidity" which apparently
is techno-speak for "crap in the water that looks like hell, but isn't
actually hurting anything", but not hydrocarbons. (hydrocarbons
is apparently a different test, that costs another $240 or so.
Actually, if it's a new well, the chances are the builder already
got one of these, so you might ask to see the results.
In any case, that will tell you what's IN the water, and then you
can decide if it's anything you want to worry about. There's unlikely
to be anything in there that can't be filtered out, or otherwise treated,
but you ought to know.
I don't have any idea what the 'Industry standard" recomendation is,
but since I have a shallow well (2" pipe driven into the gravel floor
of my basement) My plan is to have the water analysed every year,
until I get comfortable with it, and then any year in which there's a
drought or local flooding.
--Goedjn
Gary Slusser
"Goedjn" <pro6...@postoffice.uri.edu> wrote
>
>
> > I'm curious. Our new well has brown, sorta silty water. Over the
week it has
> > surely gotten better, but it's still there. sorta hazy.
> > I've never been on a well system before. We close tomorrow and don't
know if
> > this needs addressed. Will it continue to improve over time? Is it
something
>
> It's a little late to worry about in now, isn't it?
>
> Anyway, when you get a chance, but before you start actually
> DRINKING the water, take samples to a water analysis company,
> and get a full well-scan. (In RI, that costs about $240), and they
> test for bateria, mineral contaminants, "turbidity" which apparently
> is techno-speak for "crap in the water that looks like hell, but isn't
> actually hurting anything", but not hydrocarbons. (hydrocarbons
> is apparently a different test, that costs another $240 or so.
I saw technobabble used in regards to water treatement salesfolks' used
here recently and now technospeak... At least that's toward a lab! May I
suggest you do a goggle search for"water turbidity" or water + turbidity
and read up on what it is, what potential causes there are of it and
what problems it causes along with what the current EPA (and States')
MCL (that's max. contaminate level) has been established for it. Then
describe the *full* part of your "full well-scan" term for me when you
then go on to say the other parameters (you think hydrocarbons) aren't
included.... do they do from arsenic to zinc and MTBE etc.? I seriously
doubt it for $240. I really don't think people should that type test
done without good reason.
> Actually, if it's a new well, the chances are the builder already
> got one of these, so you might ask to see the results.
Most states don't require any test done by the well driller or
contractor. Should they? NJ just passed a law that took effect today
IIRC that says all houses will have a fairly extensive water test done
prior to any sale. Now me being in the business of selling water
treatment I suppose I should be jumping for joy... but Ithink we have
too many laws and too little individual responsibility.
> In any case, that will tell you what's IN the water, and then you
> can decide if it's anything you want to worry about. There's
unlikely
> to be anything in there that can't be filtered out, or otherwise
treated,
> but you ought to know.
Turbidity, look it up and the treatment for it (especially if it's
collidal whatever) and then come back and correct that statement.
> I don't have any idea what the 'Industry standard" recomendation is,
> but since I have a shallow well (2" pipe driven into the gravel floor
> of my basement) My plan is to have the water analysed every year,
> until I get comfortable with it, and then any year in which there's a
> drought or local flooding.
ummm I'd advise you to do different, like more often testing a few days
after rain. Especially heavy rain.
You know if someone takes your advice with this.... you could be talking
about their health and if they take your advice, they could get sick. At
least you said "before drinking it".
> --Goedjn
Gary
Quality Water Associates
Goedjn
> here recently and now technospeak... At least that's toward a lab! May I
> suggest you do a goggle search for"water turbidity" or water + turbidity
> and read up on what it is, what potential causes there are of it and
> what problems it causes along with what the current EPA (and States')
> MCL (that's max. contaminate level) has been established for it. Then
> describe the *full* part of your "full well-scan" term for me when you
Turbidity is just a measure of how well (or poorly) light passes through
the water. It could be either dangerous, or not, depending on what's
causing it. If they're doing a well-scan they will (or should) test for
all of the likely dangerous causes separately.
In my case, the bacteria test was $40, and what they called a
"full well scan" included a whole battery of other possible
contaminants including about a score of assorted metals,
(including 3 types of iron, which I don't understand)
It specifically excluded hydrocarbons, as I said.
My water had "undetectable levels" of lead, arsenic, mercury,
on one hand, and magnesium and a couple other metals
that were just barely within the EPA limits for primary
drinking water, and iron levels (all three types) that
were just barely OVER the EPA limits for primary drinking
water. Since I don't drink the water, since I live alone, and
since I don't let guests drink the water, that doesn't concern
me a lot.
They claimed no detectable bacterial activity, which makes
me wonder where the organic iron is coming from, and I
expect that to change, now that I'm actually USING water
from the well, but it hadn't at the 6-month mark.
Anyway, the essence of my post remains unchanged:
Don't worry overmuch about it, but DO test it before
drinking it, keep testing it for a while, and never stop
testing for bacteria.
Do you really expect people to test their wells every
time there's a heavy rain?
Gary Slusser
"Goedjn" <pro6...@postoffice.uri.edu> wrote
> > I saw technobabble used in regards to water treatement salesfolks'
used
> > here recently and now technospeak... At least that's toward a lab!
May I
> > suggest you do a goggle search for"water turbidity" or water +
turbidity
> > and read up on what it is, what potential causes there are of it and
> > what problems it causes along with what the current EPA (and
States')
> > MCL (that's max. contaminate level) has been established for it.
Then
> > describe the *full* part of your "full well-scan" term for me when
you
>
> Turbidity is just a measure of how well (or poorly) light passes
through
> the water. It could be either dangerous, or not, depending on what's
> causing it. If they're doing a well-scan they will (or should) test
for
> all of the likely dangerous causes separately.
I see you didn't look it up. Yes that's how the test is done but the
dangerous part is that turbidity prevents disinfection efforts.
Turbidity is not dangerous on its own, it does have a negative effect
that is dangerous though. That "well-scan" is based in marketing and
there's no way they are going to come up with the cause of turbidity
simply by testing the water.
> In my case, the bacteria test was $40, and what they called a
> "full well scan" included a whole battery of other possible
> contaminants including about a score of assorted metals,
> (including 3 types of iron, which I don't understand)
> It specifically excluded hydrocarbons, as I said.
Actually there's four types of iron; Ferrous, Ferric, Heme and organic.
Again "full" would include everything capable of being found in well
water. How about TOCs and VOCs? That's toxic and volitile organic
chemicals. How about anutbiotics, viruses and MBBE?
> My water had "undetectable levels" of lead, arsenic, mercury,
> on one hand, and magnesium and a couple other metals
> that were just barely within the EPA limits for primary
> drinking water, and iron levels (all three types) that
> were just barely OVER the EPA limits for primary drinking
> water. Since I don't drink the water, since I live alone, and
> since I don't let guests drink the water, that doesn't concern
> me a lot.
Magnesium, Calcium, iron etc. are not covered by MCLs; Primary or
Suggested or Secondary; at least on the Federal (EPA) level. And most
states follow their lead. Most iron problems are easily treated.
> They claimed no detectable bacterial activity, which makes
> me wonder where the organic iron is coming from, and I
> expect that to change, now that I'm actually USING water
> from the well, but it hadn't at the 6-month mark.
When they test for "bacteria" the test is for Coliform & E-Coli maybe,
maybe HPC (hetrophobic plate count) too but no others such as IRB (iron
reducing bacteria) your organic or other types like Sulfate and
Manganese reducing bacteria.
> Anyway, the essence of my post remains unchanged:
> Don't worry overmuch about it, but DO test it before
> drinking it, keep testing it for a while, and never stop
> testing for bacteria.
>
> Do you really expect people to test their wells every
> time there's a heavy rain?
If there is turbidity in their water they should be working on
preventing that but yes, surface water inflitration is a major cause of
turbidity. The only way to know the water is safe microbiologically is
testing but, with high turbidity levels testing is not possible in some
cases so they'd have to wait until the water cleared some. You also
can't rely on other test results when the water is turbid.
Gary
Quality Water Associates