Has anyone tried one of these or the home-brewed equivalent?
ironhat
tried one of these borate brews? They are apparently the equivalent of
the Tim-Bor and Bora-Care products. I have some fascia that is in the
early rot phase and there's only one to two feet of it to do (spread
over different spots). I need to be able to do a spray-on procedure to
accomplish this due to a recent permanent disability. I know that the
proper way to do this is replace the rotting boards but this is a stop-
gap measure until I can sort through my finances in the next year or
so. Here are the recipes:
This is equivalent to Bora-Care®
Prepare the concentrate:
Mix 1 Gallon glycol antifreeze, 4 1/2 pounds borax, 3 1/2 pounds
boric acid.
Mix the ingredients and heat till boiling gently. Boil off water until
a candy thermometer shows 260°F. This removes most of the water of
crystallization in the borax.
This solution is stable at 40°F and has a borate content of 26%. This
is equivalent to Bora-Care® at about $90/gal. This concentrate must
be diluted with an equal volume of water before being applied.
Application: Add 1 gallon of water to every gallon of concentrate and
stir thoroughly until solution is completely uniform. Always use
diluted within 24 hours after mixing. If kept for longer periods of
time, the active ingredient can drop out of the solution.
This is equiv. to Tim-Bor®...( 6 parts of borax and 4 parts of
boric acid)
To prepare one gallon of a 10% solution, start with an oversize
container (larger than 1 gallon) add 1 lb. of powder to approx. 3 qts
of water agitating until the powder has dissolved, then add additional
water to end up with 1 gallon of mix. To prepare one gallon of a 15%
solution, add 1.5 lbs. of powder, then add the remainder of the water
and mix as previously. Approximately 1 gallon of solution will be
needed to treat 200 square feet of wood surface area. (Note: solutions
should be used immediately and not stored.)
Later, Chuck
ransley
Isnt that a pre treatment for wood, when you have rot does that
actualy kill the organisms that are causing it. Simple laundry bleach
kills mold and what is living causing rot, by removing Oxygen to the
growth. I spray bleach to stop rot. But if its getting wet when the
bleach wears off it will come back.
Sonny
they stop the rotting of wood. Those products are used as
insecticides: Timbor, more so for powder post beetles and borax for
roaches and other similar insects. *Twenty Mule Team borax is used to
clean clothes.
To stop the rotting of wood, you have to stop the source of moisture
getting to the wood.
Or did you mis-state what your problem is: wood decay/destruction by
virtue of chewing/boring insects? Wood decay or destruction by
insects is not the same as rotting of wood. Damage by insects can
contribute to exposing wood to moisture, though, and subsequently
allowing for the rotting process.
If you do have rot, spraying any of those products will not have any
affect on stopping the rotting process. If insect damage is
contributing to the moisture getting to the wood, causing the rot,
then spraying those products will help eliminate the insects.... you
still would have to address the moisture source and you need to remove
and replace the rotted wood, if you want the facia back to its
original condition. Spraying those products will not "repair" the
rotted wood, in any way shape or form.
Sonny
Frank
Procedure may have come from this site:
http://alsnetbiz.com/homeimprovement/homemade.html
Only caveat is that materials are water soluble and on exterior wood
will eventually leach out.
Make up recipe looks OK to me but I would not do it in the kitchen.
dadiOH
> I saw this posted here and wondered if any of you have any of you
> tried one of these borate brews? They are apparently the equivalent of
> the Tim-Bor and Bora-Care products. I have some fascia that is in the
> early rot phase and there's only one to two feet of it to do (spread
> over different spots). I need to be able to do a spray-on procedure to
> accomplish this due to a recent permanent disability. I know that the
> proper way to do this is replace the rotting boards but this is a
> stop- gap measure until I can sort through my finances in the next
> year or so.
I had exactly the same problem last week. I made up a quart of the
Bora-Care equivalent, dug out the soft wood then repaired the cavity. Did
it kill the fungus? I haver no way of saying for sure but they say it does
and I have no reason to doubt them. IMO, it will; won't stop new starting
elsewhere though as long as the wood condition will support it.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
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Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
dadiOH
> Timbor, borates or boric acid are not a wood preservatives nor will
> they stop the rotting of wood.
Incorrect...
http://www.prginc.com/Borates/boracare.html
http://www.nisuscorp.com/portal/page/portal/Nisus/categories/homeowners/products/boraCare#science
ransley
I wonder but think cooking that mixture releases antifreezes poisons,
a new murder weapon for a CIS show.
ransley
I just googled a bit and yes the fumes are poisonous, 260f is hotter
than any car radiator and will release more fumes than opening any
radiator cap , if you think you can put in a thermometer and monitor
the temp safely , put me in your will first.
ironhat
>
> - Show quoted text -
Done, Ransley! ;-) I needed to know if this was the cure all that it
was cooked up to in the articles. Apparently not. Well, would you
please let me know what the best formula is and I can cook it up
outside with a fan blowing at my back while wearing a a vapor mask and
earmuffs - you can't be too safe, after all. I'll do this to kill the
microorganisms until I can get to it next spring.
Regards, Chuck
Sonny
> Sonny wrote:
> > Timbor, borates or boric acid are not a wood preservatives nor will
> > they stop the rotting of wood.
>
>
> --
>
> dadiOH
I stand by what I said, those borate/borax treatments are
insecticides. That literature, you cited, uses the term
"preservative" in a misleading way, i.e., I can urinate on a board
and no one will go near it for a while. In essence, I would be
"preserving" the board.... against what?
To treat wood for preservation, one needs a copper sulfate solution,
an arsenic solution or creosote.... and these need to be applied by
pressure, i.e., pressure treated wood, in order for even these to be
highly effective wood preservatives.
Sonny
Sonny
dadiOH
> On Jul 19, 7:02 am, "dadiOH" <dad...@invalid.com> wrote:
>> Sonny wrote:
>>> Timbor, borates or boric acid are not a wood preservatives nor will
>>> they stop the rotting of wood.
>>
>> Incorrect...http://www.prginc.com/Borates/boracare.htmlhttp://www.nisuscorp.com/portal/page/portal/Nisus/categories/homeowne...
>>
>> --
>>
>> dadiOH
>
>
> I stand by what I said, those borate/borax treatments are
> insecticides. That literature, you cited, uses the term
> "preservative" in a misleading way, i.e.,
Stand wherever you wish, it doesn't mean that it isn't effective against
fungi *as well* as insects. Note the words " kill" and "prevent" in the
last line below.
Bora-Care prevents and eliminates:
Drywood termites
Subterranean termites
Formosan termites
Carpenter ants
Powderpost beetles
Old house borers
PLUS: Bora-Care will kill and prevent wood-decay fungi and algae
rapa...@gmail.com
Terry Coombs
> Tried the home brew and applied to wood fungus in an RV after finding
> the source of moisture. Will update with results.
what the hell you're blathering on about .
--
Snag
David L. Martel
Actually it's better this way.
Dave M.
Woodson Jones
you have to use a respirater dumbass
--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/has-anyone-tried-one-of-these-or-the-home-brewed-equivalent-454053-.htm
Colonel Edmund J. Burke
> replying to ransley, Woodson Jones wrote:
> you have to use a respirater dumbass
>
>
When the men disobeyed their Colonel, I often gave them Latrine Duty.
Many a time my unfortunate "victims" said afterwards...."God damn! I coulda used a fucking respirator in that shithouse!"
END OF COMMENT
Bob G
So nine years later you took the time to show what a prick you are?
Casa de Masa
> End of a dumb thread I hope.
>
Tell us more about having your lunch from
the litter box, Snohomo. LOL
kenny
Do you mean 260 Fahrenheit?
--
For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/do-you-ever-not-bother-with-permits-46956-.htm
kenny
No explanation what 260=B0F means. Is that 260 Fahrenheit? I am boiling away, but the solution is only getting up to 220 Fahrenheit. The fumes coming off are leaving an oily deposit on everything, which tells me I'm only boiling away the glycol, not water. Pretty useless formula.
--
For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/has-anyone-tried-one-of-these-or-the-home-brewed-equivalent-454053-.htm
Ed Pawlowski
>> 0
> No explanation what 260=B0F means. Is that 260 Fahrenheit? I am boiling
> away, but the solution is only getting up to 220 Fahrenheit. The fumes
> coming off are leaving an oily deposit on everything, which tells me I'm
> only boiling away the glycol, not water. Pretty useless formula.
>
rbowman
> No explanation what 260=B0F means. Is that 260 Fahrenheit? I am boiling
> away, but the solution is only getting up to 220 Fahrenheit. The fumes
> coming off are leaving an oily deposit on everything, which tells me I'm
> only boiling away the glycol, not water. Pretty useless formula.
>
U+00B0 is the UTF-8 encoding for the degree symbol. Somewhere along the
way some program did not like the symbol and substituted the encoding.
So it was originally
260 <degreeSymbol> F