Solder or flex hose behind wall?
bo...@hboi.edu
threaded inlets. The shower backs to a closet, so I have adequate
access to the pipes and interior of the wall. I plan to cover with a
plate rather than re-drywall for future access.
The most simple option is to just simply solder the connections.
However, it might be nice to have shut off valves. I was thinking of
using compression fitting quarter turn ball valves to the supply pipes,
and then using the braided flex hose to connect the valve to the body.
I've had good luck with flex hose in the past, but I've never had one
that out of sight. This would actually be quicker install than solder.
Recomendations?
Edwin Pawlowski
<bo...@hboi.edu> wrote in message
> I was thinking of
> using compression fitting quarter turn ball valves to the supply pipes,
> and then using the braided flex hose to connect the valve to the body.
> I've had good luck with flex hose in the past, but I've never had one
> that out of sight. This would actually be quicker install than solder.
>
> Recomendations?
>
I'd not use flex behind the wall.
yeeha
bo...@hboi.edu wrote:
> The most simple option is to just simply solder the connections.
> However, it might be nice to have shut off valves. I was thinking of
> using compression fitting quarter turn ball valves to the supply pipes,
> and then using the braided flex hose to connect the valve to the body.
> I've had good luck with flex hose in the past, but I've never had one
> that out of sight. This would actually be quicker install than solder.
>
> Recomendations?
you could use brass compression fittings to come off the valve
say... threaded fitting to 1/2" pex water line.
if you had 100 extra bux you could do what the pros do and buy a pex
crimping tool... get a bag of rings, a couple sticks of pex water
line.. a few brass t's, elbows and unions and save yourself alot of
time and no worry about leaks.
Sacramento Dave
<bo...@hboi.edu> wrote in message
news:1156626295.9...@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
Why don't you just do it right . instead of some half ass flex. Soldier
some copper MIP's on some copper, cut them to the length you need , Teflon
tape,dope , screw them in . then just pipe to them. Maybe pull the cuts out
of the valve when soldering.
Toller
I can't imagine why you would want shut off valves badly enough to take the
risk; the once every ten years you have to work on the shower, turn the
water off.
On a toilet they are nice in case you have to get the water off quickly, but
that doesn't apply to a shower.
yeeha
Sacramento Dave wrote:
>
> Why don't you just do it right . instead of some half ass flex. Soldier
> some copper MIP's on some copper, cut them to the length you need , Teflon
> tape,dope , screw them in . then just pipe to them. Maybe pull the cuts out
> of the valve when soldering.
i installed a shower for a family, I used the brass fittings on the
valve
(with teflon).. I think that is much cleaner and easier than soldering
the brass has compression fittings on the tie ins... way too easy..
Sacramento Dave
"yeeha" <bigba...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1156649083.9...@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
Compression fitting and flex hoses ( and unions) should always be
accessible, that's code ( uniform plumbing code)
yeeha
Sacramento Dave wrote:
> Compression fitting and flex hoses ( and unions) should always be
> accessible, that's code ( uniform plumbing code)
define accessible
heh
for the one I did
i mean, you can GET TO EM... all in how you approach it
Edwin Pawlowski
>
> Sacramento Dave wrote:
>
>> Compression fitting and flex hoses ( and unions) should always be
>> accessible, that's code ( uniform plumbing code)
>
> define accessible
>
> heh
In my house, it means moving the mirror. In my downstairs bathroom, I had
to replace the shower control and the only way was to make a hole in the
wall next to the vanity. My wife wanted a mirror there so rather than
patch the drywall, she got the mirror.
HerHusband
> threaded inlets. The shower backs to a closet, so I have adequate
> access to the pipes and interior of the wall. I plan to cover with a
> plate rather than re-drywall for future access.
First, some shower valves have shutoffs built in. You simply turn a couple
of screws to turn off the water.
Otherwise, you shouldn't need to work on the shower very often. Just shut
off the main house water when you need to do repairs.
That said, I did install shut off valves on our showers. This way, I can
shut off the water to those showers if I need to leave the water off for a
week or so while I order a part. Our guest bath is accessed by a panel in
an opposing closet. The shutoffs for our master bath showers are located in
our crawlspace, since they're located on an outside wall. Not exactly easy
to get to, but they're only there for those very rare situations.
We have CPVC piping in our house, so I soldered adapter fittings to our
shower valves before installing them. It was then easy to make the
connections to our plumbing after installation. I would have preferred
threaded inlets if those were available on my shower valve body.
Anthony
hal...@aol.com
add them at a convenient easy to reach location. If theres a problem
its easy to isolate the offending spot.
Install only quality ball type, the regular valves dont work well in a
emergency, ball valves dont reduce flow either and move easily.
I WISH all my water line runs were homeruns serving just one poutlet
from a central control panel...