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Re: Replacing transmitter/receiver of old Sears garage door opener?
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Rich
Nov 24, 2004, 8:46:53 PM11/24/04
to
Buy a radio set.
http://garage-door-hardware.com/radio-controls.html
http://garage-door-hardware.com/radio-controls.html
http://garage-door-hardware.com/delta-radio-controls.html
"Peabody" <waybackK...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:L9apd.6463$T02.1932@lakeread06...
> I have a 1972-vintage Sears garage door opener, model 139.654000
> which still works great. But the only remote I have left is
> falling apart, and is no longer dependable, particularly in very hot
> or very cold weather.
>
> The transmitter/receiver system is the old analog type - no digital
> codes at all, just the specification of "carrier frequency" and
> "modulation frequency", and the receiver is powered by 24VAC
> provided from the main chassis. In fact, it appears that the
> receiver actuates the opener mechanism by at least partially
> shorting out its own power supply temporarily.
>
> I have been unable to find any direct replacements for either the
> transmitter or the receiver. In fact, I don't really see any total
> replacements for the transmitter/receiver system that would operate
> using the 24VAC power supply.
>
> Does anybody have any suggestions for what to do? I'd like to avoid
> having to replace the entire opener.
>
>
Art Todesco
Nov 24, 2004, 10:11:42 PM11/24/04
to
I just replaced my transmitters/receiver with a Genie from Home Depot.
It has rolling digital codes. It comes with a wall-wart transformer
if you need it, but I powered mine directly from the 24 VAC from the
opener itself. BTW, this is the 2nd full replacement since 1972. This
time, the previous receiver got his by a lightening induced spike. I
think it was about $50 for the receiver and 1 transmitter. The 2nd
transmitter wasn't cheap, about $25 or so.
It has rolling digital codes. It comes with a wall-wart transformer
if you need it, but I powered mine directly from the 24 VAC from the
opener itself. BTW, this is the 2nd full replacement since 1972. This
time, the previous receiver got his by a lightening induced spike. I
think it was about $50 for the receiver and 1 transmitter. The 2nd
transmitter wasn't cheap, about $25 or so.
Chet Hayes
Nov 25, 2004, 9:22:22 AM11/25/04
to
Art Todesco <acto...@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:<O3cpd.456578$D%.118007@attbi_s51>...
Yes, I think there are other universal replacement ones available too
that connect via the manual switch on the old system, so they don't
involve the old RF system at all.
Message has been deleted
rocketsocketman
Mar 24, 2014, 12:44:01 AM3/24/14
to
replying to Peabody, rocketsocketman wrote:
waybackKILLSPAM44 wrote:t
>
> I have a 1972-vintage Sears garage door opener, model 139.654000
> which still works great. But the only remote I have left is
> falling apart, and is no longer dependable, particularly in very hot
> or very cold weather.
> The transmitter/receiver system is the old analog type - no digital
> codes at all, just the specification of "carrier frequency" and
> "modulation frequency", and the receiver is powered by 24VAC
> provided from the main chassis. In fact, it appears that the
> receiver actuates the opener mechanism by at least partially
> shorting out its own power supply temporarily.
> I have been unable to find any direct replacements for either the
> transmitter or the receiver. In fact, I don't really see any total
> replacements for the transmitter/receiver system that would operate
> using the 24VAC power supply.
> Does anybody have any suggestions for what to do? I'd like to avoid
> having to replace the entire opener.
using the Delta 3 receiver wired with an external 24 volt power supply
should fix the problem. your old sears operator has 2 terminals that when
shorted actuate operator. connect terminal 1 on the Delta receiver to the
ground terminal on operator and terminal 2 on the receiver to
the 2nd terminal on the operator. connect the external 24 volt power
supply conductors to terminal 2 and 3 respectively on the Delta. set
receiver and transmitter switches to match. check operation.
--
waybackKILLSPAM44 wrote:t
>
> I have a 1972-vintage Sears garage door opener, model 139.654000
> which still works great. But the only remote I have left is
> falling apart, and is no longer dependable, particularly in very hot
> or very cold weather.
> The transmitter/receiver system is the old analog type - no digital
> codes at all, just the specification of "carrier frequency" and
> "modulation frequency", and the receiver is powered by 24VAC
> provided from the main chassis. In fact, it appears that the
> receiver actuates the opener mechanism by at least partially
> shorting out its own power supply temporarily.
> I have been unable to find any direct replacements for either the
> transmitter or the receiver. In fact, I don't really see any total
> replacements for the transmitter/receiver system that would operate
> using the 24VAC power supply.
> Does anybody have any suggestions for what to do? I'd like to avoid
> having to replace the entire opener.
should fix the problem. your old sears operator has 2 terminals that when
shorted actuate operator. connect terminal 1 on the Delta receiver to the
ground terminal on operator and terminal 2 on the receiver to
the 2nd terminal on the operator. connect the external 24 volt power
supply conductors to terminal 2 and 3 respectively on the Delta. set
receiver and transmitter switches to match. check operation.
--
bud--
Mar 24, 2014, 6:55:39 PM3/24/14
to
On 3/23/2014 10:44 PM, rocketsocketman wrote:
> replying to Peabody, rocketsocketman wrote:
> waybackKILLSPAM44 wrote:t
>
> replying to Peabody, rocketsocketman wrote:
> waybackKILLSPAM44 wrote:t
>
> using the Delta 3 receiver wired with an external 24 volt power supply
> should fix the problem. your old sears operator has 2 terminals that when
> shorted actuate operator. connect terminal 1 on the Delta receiver to the
> ground terminal on operator and terminal 2 on the receiver to the 2nd
> terminal on the operator. connect the external 24 volt power
> supply conductors to terminal 2 and 3 respectively on the Delta. set
> receiver and transmitter switches to match. check operation.
>
Unfortunately in trying to get his garage door to work, the door closed
> should fix the problem. your old sears operator has 2 terminals that when
> shorted actuate operator. connect terminal 1 on the Delta receiver to the
> ground terminal on operator and terminal 2 on the receiver to the 2nd
> terminal on the operator. connect the external 24 volt power
> supply conductors to terminal 2 and 3 respectively on the Delta. set
> receiver and transmitter switches to match. check operation.
>
on the OP and he was crushed. If you had not waited 9 years to make a
response he might still be alive.
Tekkie®
Mar 25, 2014, 8:00:47 PM3/25/14
to
bud-- posted for all of us...
And I know how to SNIP
> Unfortunately in trying to get his garage door to work, the door closed
> on the OP and he was crushed. If you had not waited 9 years to make a
> response he might still be alive.
Was his name Squash?
--
Tekkie
And I know how to SNIP
> Unfortunately in trying to get his garage door to work, the door closed
> on the OP and he was crushed. If you had not waited 9 years to make a
> response he might still be alive.
--
Tekkie
bob haller
Mar 25, 2014, 9:08:58 PM3/25/14
to
I would replace the entire opener, they arent expensive and newer ones are much safer, with auto reverse and detectors f anything is in the way...
Not Always Done Twice
Apr 15, 2014, 8:44:02 PM4/15/14
to
replying to Peabody, Not Always Done Twice wrote:
> waybackKILLSPAM44 wrote:
>
> I just wanted to report what I ended up doing in case
> anybody is interested.
> I used a transmitter/receiver set I found at Lowe's. It was
> $21.97, and the extra remote was about $17.00. So it's a
> good bit cheaper than the Genie at Home Depot.
> It's a HouseLink package, Model 318TR, and the extra remote
> is Model 318T. You set a 9-bit code, with each bit set to
> either +, -, or zero. I think that means you have one of
> 19,683 possible settings. This differs from the Genie setup
> which changes the code after each use. More info at:
> http://www.skylinkhome.com
> The receiver looks like a wall wort which you plug into
> 110VAC. Then there is a 15' wire pair coming out the side
> of it that you connect to the old receiver's wire terminals.
> When triggered, the receiver appears to close a relay so as
> to short those two wires. I confirmed that with an
> ohmmeter. So for this setup you have to keep the old
> receiver in place so you can use its manual switch, or
> install a new manual switch.
> The nifty thing about this is that the Sears opener has a
> 110VAC "convenience" receptacle on the back of the main box,
> intended for appliances or whatever, and right next to it
> are the terminals for the wires going to the old receiver
> and the external key switch. So I had no wiring to do.
> Works quite nicely. Cheap. Hope it lasts a while.
> Art Todesco says...
Don't overlook the obvious. While we are on that subject, if I were so
darn smart I wouldn't have found this site looking for answers. I noticed
the green LED not lighting on the remote, when I pushed the button. New
battery didn't change that. Read battery through terminals. After reading
substantially lower, I filed the battery terminals. Problem solved. I know
there are many possible problems. I overlooked the obvious in my
situation.
--
> waybackKILLSPAM44 wrote:
>
> I just wanted to report what I ended up doing in case
> anybody is interested.
> I used a transmitter/receiver set I found at Lowe's. It was
> $21.97, and the extra remote was about $17.00. So it's a
> good bit cheaper than the Genie at Home Depot.
> It's a HouseLink package, Model 318TR, and the extra remote
> is Model 318T. You set a 9-bit code, with each bit set to
> either +, -, or zero. I think that means you have one of
> 19,683 possible settings. This differs from the Genie setup
> which changes the code after each use. More info at:
> http://www.skylinkhome.com
> The receiver looks like a wall wort which you plug into
> 110VAC. Then there is a 15' wire pair coming out the side
> of it that you connect to the old receiver's wire terminals.
> When triggered, the receiver appears to close a relay so as
> to short those two wires. I confirmed that with an
> ohmmeter. So for this setup you have to keep the old
> receiver in place so you can use its manual switch, or
> install a new manual switch.
> The nifty thing about this is that the Sears opener has a
> 110VAC "convenience" receptacle on the back of the main box,
> intended for appliances or whatever, and right next to it
> are the terminals for the wires going to the old receiver
> and the external key switch. So I had no wiring to do.
> Works quite nicely. Cheap. Hope it lasts a while.
> Art Todesco says...
Don't overlook the obvious. While we are on that subject, if I were so
darn smart I wouldn't have found this site looking for answers. I noticed
the green LED not lighting on the remote, when I pushed the button. New
battery didn't change that. Read battery through terminals. After reading
substantially lower, I filed the battery terminals. Problem solved. I know
there are many possible problems. I overlooked the obvious in my
situation.
--
Patricia Quiggins
Sep 24, 2016, 5:14:04 PM9/24/16
to
replying to Art Todesco, Patricia Quiggins wrote:
Just exactly where is the transmitter in the opener? We've been trying to
find dip switches. Where do you buy a transmitter?
--
for full context, visit http://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/replacing-transmitter-receiver-of-old-sears-garage-door-open-570539-.htm
Just exactly where is the transmitter in the opener? We've been trying to
find dip switches. Where do you buy a transmitter?
--
for full context, visit http://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/replacing-transmitter-receiver-of-old-sears-garage-door-open-570539-.htm
Fred McKenzie
Sep 24, 2016, 10:36:06 PM9/24/16
to
In article <a339b$57e6ec99$a2d350aa$97...@news.flashnewsgroups.com>,
Patricia Quiggins <caedfaa9ed1216d60ef...@example.com>
wrote:
> replying to Art Todesco, Patricia Quiggins wrote:
> Just exactly where is the transmitter in the opener? We've been trying to
> find dip switches. Where do you buy a transmitter?
I consider the remote control to be a "transmitter". Some openers may
not have a remote control, but are opened by a wired keypad.
Look for the Sears model number. It consists of two or three digits, a
decimal point, and several more digits. The first group of digits
indicates its actual manufacturer. You can find a cross-reference if
you search the web.
Take the Sears model number to the Sears Parts Direct website
<http://www.searspartsdirect.com/>. With any luck, there will be a
parts list that includes the keypad or dip switches you need.
If yours is not a Sears opener, that website may still have parts for it.
Fred
Patricia Quiggins <caedfaa9ed1216d60ef...@example.com>
wrote:
> replying to Art Todesco, Patricia Quiggins wrote:
> Just exactly where is the transmitter in the opener? We've been trying to
> find dip switches. Where do you buy a transmitter?
not have a remote control, but are opened by a wired keypad.
Look for the Sears model number. It consists of two or three digits, a
decimal point, and several more digits. The first group of digits
indicates its actual manufacturer. You can find a cross-reference if
you search the web.
Take the Sears model number to the Sears Parts Direct website
<http://www.searspartsdirect.com/>. With any luck, there will be a
parts list that includes the keypad or dip switches you need.
If yours is not a Sears opener, that website may still have parts for it.
Fred
Art Todesco
Sep 25, 2016, 7:37:20 AM9/25/16
to
We had a lightning hit close by and it took out the radio receiver on
the garage door. I ended up replacing the radio and the 2 transmitters
with a digital code unit from Granger, I think. That lightning hit also
took out the computer mobo, scanner, cable modem, 1 X10 module but
didn't touch things like the wired garage door keypad or TV/stereo.
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