Can I cover a Metal door jamb

[Flippinthebirdforlife]

So my 50's home has plaster walls and metal door jambs. I was hoping to
drywall over the plaster but it will run flush with the metal door jambs do
you think I could do this and just add another type of trim around the door
jambs rather than pulling out the whole door frame?

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for full context, visit http://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/can-i-cover-a-metal-door-jamb-1115837-.htm

[Tekkie®]

Flippinthebirdforlife posted for all of us...

Why not?

--
Tekkie

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

On Sat, 26 Nov 2016 18:44:01 +0000, Flippinthebirdforlife
<caedfaa9ed1216d60ef...@example.com> wrote:

>So my 50's home has plaster walls and metal door jambs. I was hoping to
>drywall over the plaster but it will run flush with the metal door jambs do
>you think I could do this and just add another type of trim around the door
>jambs rather than pulling out the whole door frame?

Why not? You will still have a crappy looking metal door jam, but you
will have a possibly better looking trim around it.

[Tekkie®]

cl...@snyder.on.ca posted for all of us...

It's his house. Let the bride make the decision.

--
Tekkie

[Paint...@unlisted.moo]

I wonder how old this post is from homeownershub???

[TomR]

In news:sssj3cln5aorfcmh5...@4ax.com,
Paint...@unlisted.moo <Paint...@unlisted.moo> typed:

It was posted by the OP today. When I read the original post, at the bottom

of the original message it said:

"for full context, visit
http://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/can-i-cover-a-metal-door-jamb-1115837-.htm "

When I clicked on that link, it showed that the message was:

"posted on November 26, 2016, 5:57 pm" (I think probably GMT).

[Paint...@unlisted.moo]

I knew it was from homeownershub, because of the
<caedfaa9ed1216d60ef7........ address.
I have everything filtered from homeownershub, but I still see followups
like this one. But unless the date is posted, I dont know when it
originated.

Anyhow, there is no reason to get rid of a metal door frame. They are a
lot stronger than wooden ones. But they can be sort of ugly. Some wooden
trim over them could make it look nicer. They would likely have to use
sheet metal screws to attach it though. The heads of these screws can be
countersunk if needed and covered with color putty or something like
that.

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

Or use wide enough trim so you can nail to the frame - or glue the
trim to the steel, or drill and tap the steel to tale small headed #4
or #6 machine screws which are smaller than sheet metal screws - and
if they use fillister or socket gead scres they can counterbore
instead of countersinking - making it even easier to cover the holes.

[Flippinthebirdforlife]

replying to Tekkie®, Flippinthebirdforlife wrote:
Hmmm..well I'm a single female sooooooo

--

[Flippinthebirdforlife]

replying to Paintedcow, Flippinthebirdforlife wrote:
Today...lol

[Flippinthebirdforlife]

replying to clare, Flippinthebirdforlife wrote:
Nice!!! Thank you so much

--

[Flippinthebirdforlife]

replying to Paintedcow, Flippinthebirdforlife wrote:

Thank you!

--

[Flippinthebirdforlife]

replying to clare, Flippinthebirdforlife wrote:

Thanks! Just want to do it right so I was worried about covering them up.
Definitely don't want to pull them out as they are certainly anchored in well!
I appreciate your encouragement!

[DerbyDad03]

On Saturday, November 26, 2016 at 1:44:05 PM UTC-5, Flippinthebirdforlife wrote:
> So my 50's home has plaster walls and metal door jambs. I was hoping to
> drywall over the plaster but it will run flush with the metal door jambs do
> you think I could do this and just add another type of trim around the door
> jambs rather than pulling out the whole door frame?
>

Other have already OK'd the trim around the doors, so I'll ask you about other parts of the
room(s).

What about the windows? Will the drywall cause a problem with them?

What about the electrical outlets and switch boxes? Have you investigated those to
make sure you will be able to move or extend the boxes. In my 1950's plastered wall
house, the old style boxes would be a bear to move or extend. Doable, but a bear.

Why do you want to drywall over the plaster?

[dadiOH]

"Flippinthebirdforlife" <caedfaa9ed1216d60ef...@example.com>
wrote in message
news:5a0a1$5839d7f1$a2d350aa$20...@news.flashnewsgroups.com...

> So my 50's home has plaster walls and metal door jambs. I was hoping to
> drywall over the plaster but it will run flush with the metal door jambs
> do
> you think I could do this and just add another type of trim around the
> door
> jambs rather than pulling out the whole door frame?

Others have told you yes and how, I just want to point out that the casing -
the trim flat on the wall - has to allow the door to swing. If your door
swings out, NP but if inswing the casing has to be either far enough away
from the hinge or thin enough to not interfere with it. The thinness can be
accomplished via a cove cut in the edge of the casing.

[Art Todesco]

On 11/26/2016 1:44 PM, Flippinthebirdforlife wrote:
> So my 50's home has plaster walls and metal door jambs. I was hoping to
> drywall over the plaster but it will run flush with the metal door jambs do
> you think I could do this and just add another type of trim around the door
> jambs rather than pulling out the whole door frame?
>

Are these the metal frames that have no casing trim? I know they were
very popular in the late 50s and 60s. If so, you could probably just
add casing around the door frame. You could just buy off the shelf
casing. Or, here in the south, they use something called shadow box
casing. At first I thought it looked really cheesy however I've come to
like it a lot. In my case, they start with a 1 x 6 and slice off a 1 x
2 off one edge. The remaining 1 x 4 is applied around the door or
window, flat of course. And the 1 x 2 is then turned 90 degrees and
applied around the outside of the 1 x 4 frame.

[Flippinthebirdforlife]

replying to Art Todesco, Flippinthebirdforlife wrote:
Lol Art, I will have to tread this 5 times for it to sink in... it was like
this when I moved I. 3 years ago, and I'm fairly new at remodeling , but
thanks so much for taking the time.e to respond

[Flippinthebirdforlife]

replying to DerbyDad03, Flippinthebirdforlife wrote:
Honestly I just want a smooth finish and slight bit easier way to hang stuff
on the walls. The plaster in my home crumbles so easily

[DerbyDad03]

On Sunday, November 27, 2016 at 4:14:04 PM UTC-5, Flippinthebirdforlife wrote:
> replying to DerbyDad03, Flippinthebirdforlife wrote:
> Honestly I just want a smooth finish and slight bit easier way to hang stuff
> on the walls. The plaster in my home crumbles so easily

You didn't answer the rest of my questions.

How are you going to handle the windows and the electrical boxes?

Another question: How are you planning to attach the drywall?

[flippinthebirdforlife]

replying to DerbyDad03, flippinthebirdforlife wrote:
Windows will be no problem. I've opened up the electrical boxes and it
appears there is plenty of extra wiring, other than that I haven't
investigated how to do it. I'll be attaching slats to the plaster wall and
then attaching sheet rock to that. (still need to look into how to do it
properly). My main concern is the door jamb, whether it would be
"professional" to cover it up with wood trim.

[TomR]

In news:467bd$583c5ed1$a2d350aa$29...@news.flashnewsgroups.com,
flippinthebirdforlife <caedfaa9ed1216d60ef...@example.com>
typed:

> replying to DerbyDad03, flippinthebirdforlife wrote:
> Windows will be no problem. I've opened up the electrical boxes and
> it appears there is plenty of extra wiring, other than that I haven't
> investigated how to do it. I'll be attaching slats to the plaster
> wall and then attaching sheet rock to that. (still need to look into
> how to do it properly). My main concern is the door jamb, whether it
> would be "professional" to cover it up with wood trim.

I assume that, as you said, you will "...need to look into how to do it
properly..." regarding the new drywall. There are various ways to do it.
However, if you do use "slats" (furring strips) first and then attach the
new drywall to that, you will probably be bringing the new all out too far
to be able to deal with the windows and window trim etc. There are ways
that the windows can be brought out to the plane of the new drywall, but it
may be more work than you want to get into doing. And, it depends on what
you have there now. The same is true regarding the outlets if you bring the
new wall out too far. People do sometimes use furring strips when adding
new drywall on ceilings, but ceiling usually don't involve trim and outlet
issues except for maybe one ceiling light fixture.

Some people also go over old plaster walls with 1/4-inch thick drywall
instead of 1/2-inch as a way of reducing the impact on existing window trim
and baseboards etc. And, sometimes people just glue and screw the new
drywall (whether 1/4-inch or 1/2-inch to the old plaster walls. If the old
plaster walls have wood lath underneath the screws may hold to that, but it
is also good to try to locate and hit studs that are under the original
plaster walls.

As far as outlets are concerned, if you only add 1/4-inch or 1/2-inch to the
thickness of the existing wall, there are outlet extenders that you can buy
at Home Depot to bring to outlet box out to the level of the new wall. They
call them "ReceptXtenders". Here's a link about that:


http://www.homedepot.com/s/ReceptXtenders?NCNI-5

[DerbyDad03]

On Monday, November 28, 2016 at 11:44:04 AM UTC-5, flippinthebirdforlife wrote:
> replying to DerbyDad03, flippinthebirdforlife wrote:
> Windows will be no problem. I've opened up the electrical boxes and it
> appears there is plenty of extra wiring, other than that I haven't
> investigated how to do it. I'll be attaching slats to the plaster wall and
> then attaching sheet rock to that. (still need to look into how to do it
> properly). My main concern is the door jamb, whether it would be
> "professional" to cover it up with wood trim.
>

Maybe I'm nit-picking here, but what is your definition of "slats"? If you
are talking about furring strips, then you are looking at 3/4" of wood, then
(I assume) 3/8" of drywall.

That's over an inch of new material. That may require more than just "trim"
around the doors and windows. I'm envisioning the need to rip a bunch of
filler strips to hide the gaps between the trim and the existing window/door
frames. BTDT

This method attaches the drywall directly to the plaster by screwing
through the plaster into the studs. They also mention using thin drywall
(I assume 1/4").

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/attach-drywall-plaster-walls-24716.html

If you look at the windows in the following video, you can see how the
drywall appears to extend into the room more than the windows. That will
need to be dealt with later - with something other than simple trim on
the face of the drywall.

This guy laminates thin drywall directly to the plaster using drywall mud
and then adds screws.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enbV2atnwFk

[flippinthebirdforlife]

replying to TomR, flippinthebirdforlife wrote:
you are awesome! thank you so much!

[flippinthebirdforlife]

replying to DerbyDad03, flippinthebirdforlife wrote:

This is super helpful! thank you so much. I considered going directly on the
plaster, but my ex told me it was a bad idea...so I assumed it shouldn't be
done that way. After watching this video, I'm excited to get going! I
appreciate all of the information very much~

[Stormin' Norman]

I watched the video, it looks like he removed the plaster everywhere
except on the fireplace.

There it looks like he laminated the drywall on top of the plaster
using compound and then also used tapcon anchors around the perimeter
of the drywall that went over the fireplace / chimney.

[DerbyDad03]

Not arguing, but it's kind of hard to tell what he did and what he
"inherited". He said he inherited the job. His comments about having
to add shims on that window wall led me to believe that he wasn't
particularity happy with the progress thus far. I could be interpreting
his words incorrectly.

The room farther back is even less clear. At 2:45 he gives us a tour of that
room and we see that the plaster is still on the walls. In addition, all of
the drywall and other supplies already in the room. It seems out of order
that the supplies would be there - whether they are for that room *or* for
the front room - if there was still some major demolition that needed to be
done.

As I'm sure you know, removing plaster makes one hell of a mess. It seems
strange to me that some drywall would have been already hung in the front
room and that the finishing supplies would already be in the other room
if multiple walls of plaster still had to be ripped out.

Again, hard to tell what actually happened since we're only shown a small
part of a job that he walked into the middle of.

[Stormin' Norman]

On Mon, 28 Nov 2016 12:28:53 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03

One thing that is for certain, he did a nice job. He started out
saying how tedious that work is and, he is right.

[dadiOH]

"flippinthebirdforlife" <caedfaa9ed1216d60ef...@example.com>
wrote in message
news:467bd$583c5ed1$a2d350aa$29...@news.flashnewsgroups.com...

> replying to DerbyDad03, flippinthebirdforlife wrote:
> Windows will be no problem. I've opened up the electrical boxes and it
> appears there is plenty of extra wiring, other than that I haven't
> investigated how to do it.

Easy to do, they make box extensions for that purpose, available in various
depths.

> I'll be attaching slats to the plaster wall and
> then attaching sheet rock to that. (still need to look into how to do it
> properly).

Not so easy to do. Well it is, but you'll wind up with more thickness than
you probably want. Normal thickness of drywall is 1/2". I wouldn't want
less than 3/4" thick furring strips - and that is pretty skimpy - which
makes your new wall 1 1/4" thick.

There is 1/4" drywall but it would make a very flimsy wall unless you used
LOTS of close together furring strips. However, if your existing walls are
flat enough you could use construction adhesive to bond 1/4" drywall
directly to them.

[Mat...@none.none]

On Mon, 28 Nov 2016 15:53:08 -0500, "dadiOH" <xi...@verizon.net> wrote:

>Not so easy to do. Well it is, but you'll wind up with more thickness than
>you probably want. Normal thickness of drywall is 1/2". I wouldn't want
>less than 3/4" thick furring strips - and that is pretty skimpy - which
>makes your new wall 1 1/4" thick.
>
>There is 1/4" drywall but it would make a very flimsy wall unless you used
>LOTS of close together furring strips. However, if your existing walls are
>flat enough you could use construction adhesive to bond 1/4" drywall
>directly to them.

I have never seen 1/4" drywall. 3/8" is the thinnest I've seen. Where do
they sell 1/4"?

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

On Mon, 28 Nov 2016 16:44:01 +0000, flippinthebirdforlife
<caedfaa9ed1216d60ef...@example.com> wrote:

>replying to DerbyDad03, flippinthebirdforlife wrote:
>Windows will be no problem. I've opened up the electrical boxes and it
>appears there is plenty of extra wiring, other than that I haven't
>investigated how to do it. I'll be attaching slats to the plaster wall and
>then attaching sheet rock to that. (still need to look into how to do it
>properly). My main concern is the door jamb, whether it would be
>"professional" to cover it up with wood trim.

Common practice is to just glue drywall over plaster, taping joints
as usual. Box extenders are available and REQUIRED when building out a
wall. Adding the wood trim would beas "professional" as the rest of
the job - and like the rest of the job depends on how well it is done.

[DerbyDad03]

Lowes, Home Depot, et al.

Some places even sell flexible drywall - 1/4" drywall that bends more than normal 1/4"
drywall. I used some of that on the curved plaster ceiling of my main bathroom. No more
peeling paint or cracked plaster.

[cl...@snyder.on.ca]

On Mon, 28 Nov 2016 19:14:01 +0000, flippinthebirdforlife
<caedfaa9ed1216d60ef...@example.com> wrote:

>replying to DerbyDad03, flippinthebirdforlife wrote:
>This is super helpful! thank you so much. I considered going directly on the
>plaster, but my ex told me it was a bad idea...so I assumed it shouldn't be
>done that way. After watching this video, I'm excited to get going! I
>appreciate all of the information very much~

Still taking advise from your ex??

[flippinthebirdforlife]

replying to dadiOH, flippinthebirdforlife wrote:
thank you so much!

[flippinthebirdforlife]

replying to clare, flippinthebirdforlife wrote:
lol! We remodeled our house together, so I did learn a lot from him...but that
is why I am here I guess...to question what I was told...so....no, I guess I
don't

[Tekkie®]

DerbyDad03 posted for all of us...

She could box extenders. I would suggest to the OP that she do much more
research one what she wants to accomplish. Then we could answer the
questions.

--
Tekkie