Google Groups no longer supports new Usenet posts or subscriptions. Historical content remains viewable.
Dismiss
New Homelite Trimmer Won't Start
2,601 views
Skip to first unread message
frank1492
Jun 1, 2012, 12:03:39 AM6/1/12
to
This has been used only a few times. Today it wouldn't start.
Followed the instructions carefully and even tried spraying quikstart
into the carburetor. Never fired, not even once.
I'm usually pretty good at diagnosing, but this has me stumped.
Any help you could give would be most appreciated. (Yes, the
compression is fine.)
I did notice that the priming bulb was full and that it didn't
seem to depress well (too much resistance) as though it wasn't pumping
the gas properly, but I may be off on that.
Thank you.
Frank
Followed the instructions carefully and even tried spraying quikstart
into the carburetor. Never fired, not even once.
I'm usually pretty good at diagnosing, but this has me stumped.
Any help you could give would be most appreciated. (Yes, the
compression is fine.)
I did notice that the priming bulb was full and that it didn't
seem to depress well (too much resistance) as though it wasn't pumping
the gas properly, but I may be off on that.
Thank you.
Frank
83LowRider
Jun 1, 2012, 1:49:39 AM6/1/12
to
Is it dry and 'normal' looking?
Ground the end of the plug and pull the
cord. with the switch in the "On" position.
(or get a spark tester for a few bucks).
Is there spark?
There's only 3 relevant things most of the time
(barring the engine being worn out). Fuel, spark
and timing. If you prime the carb before checking
the plug, you should see gas on it <plug>. Likewise, you
can pour a small amount of fuel directly into the plug
hole, screw plug in, and try to start. Spraying fuel
into the air filter/intake does not guarantee it is getting into
the cylinder.
Bob_Villa
Jun 1, 2012, 6:11:09 AM6/1/12
to
83LowRider
Jun 1, 2012, 8:40:57 AM6/1/12
to
Bob_Villa wrote:
> Something often over-looked on 2-cycles...blocked exhaust.
Not likely on a new unit. He would have to have really overdone the
> Something often over-looked on 2-cycles...blocked exhaust.
oil mixture.
Frank
Jun 1, 2012, 8:51:19 AM6/1/12
to
get a new one. Getting repaired under warranty in my experience can be
a PITA and the big stores will normally trade back with no question.
Doug
Jun 1, 2012, 9:35:03 AM6/1/12
to
On Fri, 01 Jun 2012 00:03:39 -0400, frank1492 <fran...@verizon.net>
wrote:
If it's still under the return policy, just return it. Otherwise
maybe flooded??? I recall in the old days, to pull the plug and just
pull the cord multiple times to unflood it. Check the plug to make
sure it's still clean ... not full of oil at gapped end. Then put it
back, prime as normal and try to start again. I know mine (different
brand) is probably made by a female because it's tempermental at
times. Other times, it starts fine.
wrote:
maybe flooded??? I recall in the old days, to pull the plug and just
pull the cord multiple times to unflood it. Check the plug to make
sure it's still clean ... not full of oil at gapped end. Then put it
back, prime as normal and try to start again. I know mine (different
brand) is probably made by a female because it's tempermental at
times. Other times, it starts fine.
Jim Yanik
Jun 1, 2012, 11:26:25 AM6/1/12
to
frank1492 <fran...@verizon.net> wrote in
news:5bfgs71ddee98155e...@4ax.com:
perhaps the ethanol in the gas(E10) has swelled some rubber
part,restricting the fuel feed?
lots of people are experiencing problems in small engines with ethanol in
the gas.
--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com
news:5bfgs71ddee98155e...@4ax.com:
part,restricting the fuel feed?
lots of people are experiencing problems in small engines with ethanol in
the gas.
--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com
frank1492
Jun 1, 2012, 11:43:32 AM6/1/12
to
The plug was wettish. I replaced the fuel with fresh. Still not a
sputter.
I think that says no spark. When I check I'll report back but I
think this may clinch it.
sputter.
I think that says no spark. When I check I'll report back but I
think this may clinch it.
hr(bob) hofmann@att.net
Jun 1, 2012, 12:57:08 PM6/1/12
to
>
> - Show quoted text -
Is it under a warranty????
Bob_Villa
Jun 1, 2012, 1:37:09 PM6/1/12
to
Oren
Jun 1, 2012, 1:48:18 PM6/1/12
to
On Fri, 01 Jun 2012 11:43:32 -0400, frank1492 <fran...@verizon.net>
wrote:
>The plug was wettish. I replaced the fuel with fresh. Still not a
>sputter.
Check that the plug wire is snug on the plug (wire terminal). Ensure
there are no cracks in the wire that can ground out on the engine.
For giggles, does this trimmer have an on OFF/ON switch? Nothing
sillier than starting an engine when the switch is "OFF"...
> I think that says no spark. When I check I'll report back but I
>think this may clinch it.
>
...please let us know, for sure.
wrote:
>The plug was wettish. I replaced the fuel with fresh. Still not a
>sputter.
there are no cracks in the wire that can ground out on the engine.
For giggles, does this trimmer have an on OFF/ON switch? Nothing
sillier than starting an engine when the switch is "OFF"...
> I think that says no spark. When I check I'll report back but I
>think this may clinch it.
>
denni...@gmail.com
Jun 1, 2012, 3:31:17 PM6/1/12
to
On Friday, June 1, 2012 11:26:25 AM UTC-4, Jim Yanik wrote:
> perhaps the ethanol in the gas(E10) has swelled some rubber
> part,restricting the fuel feed?
On a NEW unit, not likely. I suppose a "new" unit could be several months to over a year old, but usually new is new, a couple months at most. It takes more than a couple months for the ethanol gas to adversely effect rubber parts.
> perhaps the ethanol in the gas(E10) has swelled some rubber
> part,restricting the fuel feed?
Maybe some piece of crap left over from the manufacturing/assembly process got wedged in somewhere, but you would need to know something about these units to tear it down and find the obstruction.
It would also require that the trimmer is past the box store's return policy, and the OP has no other option than to fix it himself or send it back to China for warranty repair.
> lots of people are experiencing problems in small engines with ethanol in
> the gas.
83LowRider
Jun 1, 2012, 3:59:08 PM6/1/12
to
frank1492 wrote:
> The plug was wettish. I replaced the fuel with fresh. Still not a
> sputter.
> I think that says no spark. When I check I'll report back but I
> think this may clinch it.
Well then, we know you're GETTING fuel to the carb.
> The plug was wettish. I replaced the fuel with fresh. Still not a
> sputter.
> I think that says no spark. When I check I'll report back but I
> think this may clinch it.
When you see/say the plug was wet - it shouldn't be - unless
you had just <very> recently primed it.
That doesn't say anything as to whether you're getting spark.
Take the plug out, put the spark plug cap/boot on the plug.
Ground the bottom of the plug against the engine.
With switch turned 'on', pull the cord. You should see
a spark. You'll often 'hear' it as well.
Hank
Jun 1, 2012, 6:04:03 PM6/1/12
to
On Jun 1, 1:49 am, "83LowRider" <83lowri...@nywilldo.com> wrote:
If you prime the carb before checking
> the plug, you should see gas on it <plug>.
The fuel from the primer bulb goes in the intake side of the
If you prime the carb before checking
> the plug, you should see gas on it <plug>.
crankcase. Fuel has to go thru crankcase first, before it reaches the
plug on 2 strokes ( which I assume it is). He would have to push the
primer bulb and the pull the starter rope for fuel to show up on the
plug.
Hank
Hank
Jun 1, 2012, 6:10:16 PM6/1/12
to
On Jun 1, 11:43 am, frank1492 <frank1...@verizon.net> wrote:
> The plug was wettish. I replaced the fuel with fresh. Still not a
> sputter.
> I think that says no spark. When I check I'll report back but I
> think this may clinch it.
>
Take out the plug.
> The plug was wettish. I replaced the fuel with fresh. Still not a
> sputter.
> I think that says no spark. When I check I'll report back but I
> think this may clinch it.
>
Pull the cord several times and let it sit for a day ( gets gas out of
crank case)
Next day pull it a couple more times
Get new plug and check for spark BEFORE you put it in
If no spark, check to make sure kill switch is in the RUN position
If you have spark, then install NEW plug
You're welcome
Hank
83LowRider
Jun 1, 2012, 6:39:16 PM6/1/12
to
Hank wrote:
> If you prime the carb before checking
>> the plug, you should see gas on it <plug>.
>
> The fuel from the primer bulb goes in the intake side of the
> crankcase. Fuel has to go thru crankcase first, before it reaches the
> plug on 2 strokes ( which I assume it is). He would have to push the
> primer bulb and the pull the starter rope for fuel to show up on the
> plug.
You are correct. I've assumed if he had been pushing
> If you prime the carb before checking
>> the plug, you should see gas on it <plug>.
>
> The fuel from the primer bulb goes in the intake side of the
> crankcase. Fuel has to go thru crankcase first, before it reaches the
> plug on 2 strokes ( which I assume it is). He would have to push the
> primer bulb and the pull the starter rope for fuel to show up on the
> plug.
the primer bulb, that he had been pulling the rope to start it.
Ed Pawlowski
Jun 1, 2012, 11:26:33 PM6/1/12
to
>The plug was wettish. I replaced the fuel with fresh. Still not a
>sputter.
> I think that says no spark. When I check I'll report back but I
>think this may clinch it.
>
From experience, I know exactly what the problem is. It says
>sputter.
> I think that says no spark. When I check I'll report back but I
>think this may clinch it.
>
"Homelite" on the side of it. Tools that are marked "Homelite" last
for only a few hours.
Go back to the store and look for one that says Stihl, Husqvarna,
Honda and it will start much easier and last much longer.
Larry Fishel
Jun 2, 2012, 12:00:04 AM6/2/12
to
Ours stopped after a few uses also. After much messing about, I found
that the screws that held the priming bulb to the carb had worked
loose and tightening them fixed the problem... Never had another
problem until the priming bulb and fuel line disintegrated (from being
left in the sun).
that the screws that held the priming bulb to the carb had worked
loose and tightening them fixed the problem... Never had another
problem until the priming bulb and fuel line disintegrated (from being
left in the sun).
MLD
Jun 2, 2012, 9:10:38 AM6/2/12
to
"frank1492" <fran...@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:5bfgs71ddee98155e...@4ax.com...
Called customer service--got an experienced tech. Where the instructions
said "prime the bulb 7 times" he said do it as many as 14 times. If it
don't start then put it in the Run position, hold down the trigger and pull.
That does it every time. One other thing--the way I hold the unit while
trying to start also has a bearing--the inlet line in the tank can be out of
the fuel at times--I make sure that it is submerged when starting. Just a
thought--is it possible that the line in the fuel tank is
blocked/crimped/leaky?
MLD
Jon Danniken
Jun 2, 2012, 9:59:33 AM6/2/12
to
On 06/01/2012 08:26 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>
> From experience, I know exactly what the problem is. It says
> "Homelite" on the side of it. Tools that are marked "Homelite" last
> for only a few hours.
>
> Go back to the store and look for one that says Stihl, Husqvarna,
> Honda and it will start much easier and last much longer.
I bought a USED Homelite chainsaw (a cheap, Chinese-made, underpowered
>
> From experience, I know exactly what the problem is. It says
> "Homelite" on the side of it. Tools that are marked "Homelite" last
> for only a few hours.
>
> Go back to the store and look for one that says Stihl, Husqvarna,
> Honda and it will start much easier and last much longer.
big-box version) last year to cut up a stump. It was used by the
previous owner to the point where the paint was worn off of the bar.
I used it as-was to cut the stump up, resharpening the blade every time
I hit dirt (which was frequent because this was a stump), and it worked
fine.
This year when I ran it to cut some trees (in the rain), after not much
work it wouldn't start. I cleaned the (clogged) air filter and bought a
new plug, and it's back to working like new.
If you are a professional and need professional-grade gear, then yeah,
you need to step up, but my cheap, used cheap-Chinese Homelite product
is working just fine for my homeowner needs.
Jon
Ed Pawlowski
Jun 2, 2012, 10:31:33 AM6/2/12
to
On Sat, 02 Jun 2012 06:59:33 -0700, Jon Danniken
<jonSPAM...@yaSMPAhoo.com> wrote:
>I bought a USED Homelite chainsaw (a cheap, Chinese-made, underpowered
>big-box version) last year to cut up a stump. It was used by the
>previous owner to the point where the paint was worn off of the bar.
>
<jonSPAM...@yaSMPAhoo.com> wrote:
>I bought a USED Homelite chainsaw (a cheap, Chinese-made, underpowered
>big-box version) last year to cut up a stump. It was used by the
>previous owner to the point where the paint was worn off of the bar.
>
>If you are a professional and need professional-grade gear, then yeah,
>you need to step up, but my cheap, used cheap-Chinese Homelite product
>is working just fine for my homeowner needs.
>
>Jon
Want to buy my Homelite? It had less than ten hours and was worn out.
>you need to step up, but my cheap, used cheap-Chinese Homelite product
>is working just fine for my homeowner needs.
>
>Jon
You certainly got lucky, but that is a rare exception. Ask at any
small engine service shop.
Jon Danniken
Jun 2, 2012, 11:32:55 AM6/2/12
to
One thing you have to realize is that they typical Homelite purchaser is
not going to be an experienced two-cycle engine user. They will be less
likely to properly mix the gas, they might keep it too long (ie, not use
the mix within a month), they will be more likely to leave gas sitting
in the tank, and they will be more likely to forego the routine
maintenance (air filter and spark plug) that any two-cycle motor requires.
Yes, they are cheaply built, but how much saw can you reasonably expect
for $80? Despite that, I've had good luck with mine using it for
intermittent household-duty work, paying attention to proper maintenance.
Jon
diy savant
Jun 2, 2012, 11:34:06 AM6/2/12
to
On 6/2/2012 9:59 AM, Jon Danniken wrote:
>
> If you are a professional and need professional-grade gear, then yeah,
> you need to step up, but my cheap, used cheap-Chinese Homelite product
> is working just fine for my homeowner needs.
The problem I've had with cheap chinese big box store crap is that they
>
> If you are a professional and need professional-grade gear, then yeah,
> you need to step up, but my cheap, used cheap-Chinese Homelite product
> is working just fine for my homeowner needs.
don't start easily nor do they stay running. Set a cheap chinasaw down
for 30 seconds to reposition a log and the saw will die. Then your doing
the Jane Fonda Workout on the starter cord trying to get it running again.
Do yourself a favor and toss that chinasaw out the car window on the way
to your local Stihl dealer.
Jon Danniken
Jun 2, 2012, 11:52:37 AM6/2/12
to
On 06/02/2012 08:34 AM, diy savant wrote:
> On 6/2/2012 9:59 AM, Jon Danniken wrote:
>
>>
>> If you are a professional and need professional-grade gear, then yeah,
>> you need to step up, but my cheap, used cheap-Chinese Homelite product
>> is working just fine for my homeowner needs.
>
> The problem I've had with cheap chinese big box store crap is that they
> don't start easily nor do they stay running. Set a cheap chinasaw down
> for 30 seconds to reposition a log and the saw will die. Then your doing
> the Jane Fonda Workout on the starter cord trying to get it running again.
The idle adjustment screw is easily accessible and quickly fixes that
> On 6/2/2012 9:59 AM, Jon Danniken wrote:
>
>>
>> If you are a professional and need professional-grade gear, then yeah,
>> you need to step up, but my cheap, used cheap-Chinese Homelite product
>> is working just fine for my homeowner needs.
>
> The problem I've had with cheap chinese big box store crap is that they
> don't start easily nor do they stay running. Set a cheap chinasaw down
> for 30 seconds to reposition a log and the saw will die. Then your doing
> the Jane Fonda Workout on the starter cord trying to get it running again.
problem; if you had read the fine manual you would discovered this for
yourself. They are purposely set too low to keep the EPA happy, as
well as to make DAMN SURE that there is ZERO CHANCE of the clutch
engaging when someone sets the saw down next to the baby when they go in
the house for another crackhit (you can thank the lawyers for that one).
A harder adjustment is increasing the mixture screws to be richer,
because they have a limiter on each screw which allows them to only be
turned leaner (again, thanks to the EPA for that one). This can cause a
problem if the saw is running too lean at WOT, and will burn it up in
short order.
As in most limiter screws, it is easily bypassed if you are somewhat
handy (I removed the limiters on mine).
Jon
Greg
Jun 2, 2012, 12:50:49 PM6/2/12
to
On 6/2/2012 11:52 AM, Jon Danniken wrote:
>
> The idle adjustment screw is easily accessible and quickly fixes that
> problem; if you had read the fine manual you would discovered this for
> yourself. They are purposely set too low to keep the EPA happy, as well
> as to make DAMN SURE that there is ZERO CHANCE of the clutch engaging
> when someone sets the saw down next to the baby when they go in the
> house for another crackhit (you can thank the lawyers for that one).
>
> A harder adjustment is increasing the mixture screws to be richer,
> because they have a limiter on each screw which allows them to only be
> turned leaner (again, thanks to the EPA for that one). This can cause a
> problem if the saw is running too lean at WOT, and will burn it up in
> short order.
>
> As in most limiter screws, it is easily bypassed if you are somewhat
> handy (I removed the limiters on mine).
>
I have to agree with the other posters, Stihl is the best!
>
> The idle adjustment screw is easily accessible and quickly fixes that
> problem; if you had read the fine manual you would discovered this for
> yourself. They are purposely set too low to keep the EPA happy, as well
> as to make DAMN SURE that there is ZERO CHANCE of the clutch engaging
> when someone sets the saw down next to the baby when they go in the
> house for another crackhit (you can thank the lawyers for that one).
>
> A harder adjustment is increasing the mixture screws to be richer,
> because they have a limiter on each screw which allows them to only be
> turned leaner (again, thanks to the EPA for that one). This can cause a
> problem if the saw is running too lean at WOT, and will burn it up in
> short order.
>
> As in most limiter screws, it is easily bypassed if you are somewhat
> handy (I removed the limiters on mine).
>
You can make excuses and blame lawyers and EPA all you want but I've
never had to do any of those things to get my Stihl 2-strokes to run.
FWIW, I do use Stihl MotoMix exclusively so that I don't have to worry
about ethanol fuel decay and resultant damage. I just keep everything
fueled up with MotoMix and ready to go. They always start easily and run
great.
tra...@optonline.net
Jun 2, 2012, 1:01:45 PM6/2/12
to
>
> - Show quoted text -
On a related question, I have a 2 cycle weed whacker
> - Show quoted text -
that would not start. I sprayed carb cleaner in it and
now it starts just fine, will run with the choke off, but
as soon as you give it about 50%+ throttle it starts
to stall. And at that point even quickly backing off on
the throttle, it will not recover, it just dies out.
While cleaning and looking at it I noticed one thing
that doesn's seem right. When I pump the bulb I
see solid gas going into the carb, but some bubbles
are there in the return line. Even pumping many
times makes no difference.
So, my current theory is that there is a leak at the
carb that is allowing air to get sucked in? And
that it isn't a problem at lower power but causes
fuel starvation at higher power? Next thing I'm
going to do is see what the return fuel line does
when it running and the problem occurs. Any
other thoughts?
k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz
Jun 2, 2012, 2:34:24 PM6/2/12
to
On Sat, 02 Jun 2012 08:32:55 -0700, Jon Danniken
lucky to use a gallon in a year, so bought a 4-cycle trimmer).
<jonSPAM...@yaSMPAhoo.com> wrote:
>On 06/02/2012 07:31 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>> On Sat, 02 Jun 2012 06:59:33 -0700, Jon Danniken
>> <jonSPAM...@yaSMPAhoo.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>> I bought a USED Homelite chainsaw (a cheap, Chinese-made, underpowered
>>> big-box version) last year to cut up a stump. It was used by the
>>> previous owner to the point where the paint was worn off of the bar.
>>
>>>
>>> If you are a professional and need professional-grade gear, then yeah,
>>> you need to step up, but my cheap, used cheap-Chinese Homelite product
>>> is working just fine for my homeowner needs.
>>>
>>> Jon
>>
>> Want to buy my Homelite? It had less than ten hours and was worn out.
>> You certainly got lucky, but that is a rare exception. Ask at any
>> small engine service shop.
>
>Already got one, but thanks. :)
>
>One thing you have to realize is that they typical Homelite purchaser is
>not going to be an experienced two-cycle engine user. They will be less
>likely to properly mix the gas, they might keep it too long (ie, not use
>the mix within a month), they will be more likely to leave gas sitting
>in the tank, and they will be more likely to forego the routine
>maintenance (air filter and spark plug) that any two-cycle motor requires.
Use gas within a month? Who does that? ...particularly 2-cycle mix (I was
>On 06/02/2012 07:31 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>> On Sat, 02 Jun 2012 06:59:33 -0700, Jon Danniken
>> <jonSPAM...@yaSMPAhoo.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>> I bought a USED Homelite chainsaw (a cheap, Chinese-made, underpowered
>>> big-box version) last year to cut up a stump. It was used by the
>>> previous owner to the point where the paint was worn off of the bar.
>>
>>>
>>> If you are a professional and need professional-grade gear, then yeah,
>>> you need to step up, but my cheap, used cheap-Chinese Homelite product
>>> is working just fine for my homeowner needs.
>>>
>>> Jon
>>
>> Want to buy my Homelite? It had less than ten hours and was worn out.
>> You certainly got lucky, but that is a rare exception. Ask at any
>> small engine service shop.
>
>Already got one, but thanks. :)
>
>One thing you have to realize is that they typical Homelite purchaser is
>not going to be an experienced two-cycle engine user. They will be less
>likely to properly mix the gas, they might keep it too long (ie, not use
>the mix within a month), they will be more likely to leave gas sitting
>in the tank, and they will be more likely to forego the routine
>maintenance (air filter and spark plug) that any two-cycle motor requires.
lucky to use a gallon in a year, so bought a 4-cycle trimmer).
Jon Danniken
Jun 2, 2012, 4:15:41 PM6/2/12
to
On 06/02/2012 11:34 AM, k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz wrote:
a into the 500mL gives me a 50:1 mix. Between the trimmer and the saw I
use it up within a month (or two if I'm being lazy, but I use the oil
with the stabilizer in it).
Jon
> On Sat, 02 Jun 2012 08:32:55 -0700, Jon Danniken wrote:
>>>
>> One thing you have to realize is that they typical Homelite purchaser is
>> not going to be an experienced two-cycle engine user. They will be less
>> likely to properly mix the gas, they might keep it too long (ie, not use
>> the mix within a month), they will be more likely to leave gas sitting
>> in the tank, and they will be more likely to forego the routine
>> maintenance (air filter and spark plug) that any two-cycle motor requires.
>
> Use gas within a month? Who does that? ...particularly 2-cycle mix (I was
> lucky to use a gallon in a year, so bought a 4-cycle trimmer).
I mix mine up by the pint. One pint is about 500mL, so adding 10mL from
>>>
>> One thing you have to realize is that they typical Homelite purchaser is
>> not going to be an experienced two-cycle engine user. They will be less
>> likely to properly mix the gas, they might keep it too long (ie, not use
>> the mix within a month), they will be more likely to leave gas sitting
>> in the tank, and they will be more likely to forego the routine
>> maintenance (air filter and spark plug) that any two-cycle motor requires.
>
> Use gas within a month? Who does that? ...particularly 2-cycle mix (I was
> lucky to use a gallon in a year, so bought a 4-cycle trimmer).
a into the 500mL gives me a 50:1 mix. Between the trimmer and the saw I
use it up within a month (or two if I'm being lazy, but I use the oil
with the stabilizer in it).
Jon
Steve Barker
Jun 2, 2012, 4:36:50 PM6/2/12
to
LMAO! Try 12 or 14 a DAY 100 or so days a year.... think STIHL.
--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email
Steve Barker
Jun 2, 2012, 4:37:46 PM6/2/12
to
brand i would consider. Still use mix fuel.
k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz
Jun 2, 2012, 7:32:00 PM6/2/12
to
On Sat, 02 Jun 2012 15:37:46 -0500, Steve Barker <ichase...@notgmail.com>
wrote:
Hello? Not everyone is a Stihl shill. Mine doesn't use mix, rather has an
oil pan. You really gotta get out more.
wrote:
oil pan. You really gotta get out more.
Vic Smith
Jun 2, 2012, 9:06:47 PM6/2/12
to
On Sat, 02 Jun 2012 15:36:50 -0500, Steve Barker
<ichase...@notgmail.com> wrote:
>
>that guy that loves his probably doesn't have near 10 hours on it.
>LMAO! Try 12 or 14 a DAY 100 or so days a year.... think STIHL.
You might do it differently if you run a landscape service.
<ichase...@notgmail.com> wrote:
>
>that guy that loves his probably doesn't have near 10 hours on it.
>LMAO! Try 12 or 14 a DAY 100 or so days a year.... think STIHL.
But I've been using my 90 buck Craftsman for about 8 years.
Probably put no more than a couple hours run time on it each season.
Maybe less than 2 hours. That's all I need.
Never drained the tank. Never pulled the plug.
Always started with a few yanks after sitting all winter, always with
old gas in it. In fact, I bought the gas I that was in it at the
start of this season about 4 years ago.
Wouldn't start this year, so I drained the tank and turned it upside
down for a couple days. Bought new gas for the mix, primed it and it
started with a few yanks.
Kind of disappointed me. Was looking to get a new one, with 2
strings.
Anyway, it's always had touchy choking. If not fully choked and at
half-throttle, it won't fire. You'd think it was purely dead.
Then as soon as it fires, you have open the choke quickly, or it dies.
And I mean quick. Like 2 seconds quick.
Then it runs like a banshee.
So tricky choking causes some engines to seem dead.
I've seen the same on car/truck carbed engines, but on 2 strokes it
shows up much more.
Always check the choke first, then move to spark.
--
Vic
Hank
Jun 2, 2012, 10:28:08 PM6/2/12
to
On Jun 2, 1:01 pm, "trad...@optonline.net" <trad...@optonline.net>
wrote:
Bulb could have a small crack that you can't see and it don't leak
because you have your finger over the crack, or fuel line has crack,
or you need to put gas in it.
I woud replace the fuel line. This is the most common problem. Then
replace the primer bulb ( less than $5). One or the other should solve
your problem.
Hank
wrote:
because you have your finger over the crack, or fuel line has crack,
or you need to put gas in it.
I woud replace the fuel line. This is the most common problem. Then
replace the primer bulb ( less than $5). One or the other should solve
your problem.
Hank
Steve Barker
Jun 3, 2012, 12:00:16 AM6/3/12
to
brand is that? It must be heavy. How's it work upside down? I really
don't need to get out more. I have stihl products, no need to go out
anymore at all.
k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz
Jun 3, 2012, 12:21:27 AM6/3/12
to
On Sat, 02 Jun 2012 23:00:16 -0500, Steve Barker <ichase...@notgmail.com>
At least some of us are, though it's hard sometimes to know exactly what
you're talking about, other than shilling for Stihl.
>With a crank case full of oil?
Certainly.
>What brand is that?
Mine is a Troy Bilt, but there are others.
>It must be heavy.
Wrong.
>How's it work upside down?
Quite well. Well, it's right side up, for the trimmer.
>I really don't need to get out more.
Wrong, obviously.
>I have stihl products, no need to go out anymore at all.
No doubt about it, you're just a Stihl shill. Fool.
you're talking about, other than shilling for Stihl.
>With a crank case full of oil?
>What brand is that?
Mine is a Troy Bilt, but there are others.
>It must be heavy.
Wrong.
>How's it work upside down?
>I really don't need to get out more.
>I have stihl products, no need to go out anymore at all.
tra...@optonline.net
Jun 3, 2012, 8:21:49 AM6/3/12
to
as the return line. Also, I've never seen a bulb with an air leak
where fuel was not leaking out when it's pressed.
>
> I woud replace the fuel line. This is the most common problem. Then
> replace the primer bulb ( less than $5). One or the other should solve
> your problem.
>
>
> - Show quoted text -
It might be a leak right where the return line joins the carb. But
> - Show quoted text -
that's
where it would have to be because the bubbles are showing up right
where it leaves the carb. Again, no bubbles going in the carb, only
bubbles coming out.
Hank
Jun 3, 2012, 10:53:34 AM6/3/12
to
On Jun 3, 8:21 am, "trad...@optonline.net" <trad...@optonline.net>
Obviously your experiences are different than mine. If I were to
repair his trimmer, the first thing I would do, with the symptoms he
gave, is to replace all fuel lines and primer bulb and spark plug.
This takes care of 90% of the problems. If he is too cheap to fork out
the $5-$10 to replace these parts, he is just wasting his time trying
to find out which one it is.
I have repaired unknown numbers of trimmers and 2 stroke equipment for
30+ years in a shop.
Hank
repair his trimmer, the first thing I would do, with the symptoms he
gave, is to replace all fuel lines and primer bulb and spark plug.
This takes care of 90% of the problems. If he is too cheap to fork out
the $5-$10 to replace these parts, he is just wasting his time trying
to find out which one it is.
I have repaired unknown numbers of trimmers and 2 stroke equipment for
30+ years in a shop.
Hank
tra...@optonline.net
Jun 4, 2012, 8:12:51 AM6/4/12
to
with MY problem, which is different.
> This takes care of 90% of the problems. If he is too cheap to fork out
> the $5-$10 to replace these parts, he is just wasting his time trying
> to find out which one it is.
>
> I have repaired unknown numbers of trimmers and 2 stroke equipment for
> 30+ years in a shop.
>
> Hank- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
Then I would think that you would agree that air bubbles in the return
>
> - Show quoted text -
line
from the carb, with no air bubbles in the supply line
from the tank and priming bulb can't be due to a leaking bulb, or a
leak in the fuel line from the tank to the bulb, right? If there is a
leak,
it would seem to me that it would have to be right where the supply
fuel line connects to the carb or else in the carb itself. And if
it's
leaking at the connection to the carb, wouldn't there typically be
some fuel leaking visibly when the priming bulb is pushed? It's
forcing fuel into the carb, so if there was a leak, wouldn't some
fuel come out under pressure?
One basic question is should there ever be air bubbles in the fuel
return
line after priming it say 10 times?
frank1492
Jun 4, 2012, 1:42:08 PM6/4/12
to
Don't think so. This is almost brand new.
On Sat, 2 Jun 2012 19:28:08 -0700 (PDT), Hank <nineb...@aol.com>
wrote:
On Sat, 2 Jun 2012 19:28:08 -0700 (PDT), Hank <nineb...@aol.com>
wrote:
frank1492
Jun 4, 2012, 3:11:35 PM6/4/12
to
Thank you all for your kind advice. Sorry to take so long in getting
back. I had filled the tank with fresh fuel and left this project
alone for several days.
Today I bought a spark tester (easier than attempting to ground
the plug while pulling the start cord.) Recall I had guessed a bad
spark earlier. The spark was perfect!
Without choking, I depressed the throttle and the engine started
immediately.
So it appears Hank and some others were right. The engine must
have been severely flooded.
Initially in desperation I must have choked the engine more than I
thought. I feel very stupid about this and am sorry if I may have
misled you. I simply could not understand with the use of starting
fluid why I couldn't even get a sputter.
The cautionary tale here is this: Always follow starting
instructions exactly and be patient.
Just a word or two in defense of Homelite. For about 20 years I
had a string trimmer that started and ran flawlessly, only giving
trouble very recently. It had years of stale gas (I'm more careful
now) and never complained. I liked it because it had no centrifugal
clutch and didn't require being run at light speed. Also simply
speeding the engine momentarily to full throttle advanced the line- no
need to bump or insert line stubs manually.
So I have no problems with Homelite. And it turns out this problem
wasn't theirs!
Once again thank you all. I intend to do penance by running the
trimmer against my bare leg for one-half hour.
Frank
back. I had filled the tank with fresh fuel and left this project
alone for several days.
Today I bought a spark tester (easier than attempting to ground
the plug while pulling the start cord.) Recall I had guessed a bad
spark earlier. The spark was perfect!
Without choking, I depressed the throttle and the engine started
immediately.
So it appears Hank and some others were right. The engine must
have been severely flooded.
Initially in desperation I must have choked the engine more than I
thought. I feel very stupid about this and am sorry if I may have
misled you. I simply could not understand with the use of starting
fluid why I couldn't even get a sputter.
The cautionary tale here is this: Always follow starting
instructions exactly and be patient.
Just a word or two in defense of Homelite. For about 20 years I
had a string trimmer that started and ran flawlessly, only giving
trouble very recently. It had years of stale gas (I'm more careful
now) and never complained. I liked it because it had no centrifugal
clutch and didn't require being run at light speed. Also simply
speeding the engine momentarily to full throttle advanced the line- no
need to bump or insert line stubs manually.
So I have no problems with Homelite. And it turns out this problem
wasn't theirs!
Once again thank you all. I intend to do penance by running the
trimmer against my bare leg for one-half hour.
Frank
Steve Barker
Jun 4, 2012, 9:01:29 PM6/4/12
to
take the plug out, hook the wire back to it, lay it against the hole it
belongs in, and yank that rope!. You'll get a little fire and then
none, and you'll be dried out in a flash. No pun intended.
Stormin Mormon
Jun 4, 2012, 10:14:59 PM6/4/12
to
Fahr in de hole!
I've seen other people flood an engine, and then try to start it by further
flooding it. Very common thought process.
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Steve Barker" <ichase...@notgmail.com> wrote in message
news:d6WdnexvwM3vx1DS...@giganews.com...
I've seen other people flood an engine, and then try to start it by further
flooding it. Very common thought process.
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Steve Barker" <ichase...@notgmail.com> wrote in message
news:d6WdnexvwM3vx1DS...@giganews.com...
> Without choking, I depressed the throttle and the engine started
> immediately.
> So it appears Hank and some others were right. The engine must
> have been severely flooded.
> immediately.
> So it appears Hank and some others were right. The engine must
> have been severely flooded.
Hank
Jun 5, 2012, 5:30:57 AM6/5/12
to
On Jun 4, 8:12 am, "trad...@optonline.net" <trad...@optonline.net>
Not all trimmers have a fuel return line.
Oneof these days you may come across a primer bulb that has a crack in
it and then you'll know what i am talking about. They usually crack on
the tip of the bulb, therefore, when you put your finger on it to
push, you are basically sealing the crack. When you let off, it will
suck air in, not gas. Usualy they don't leak either.
There shouldn't be any air in the lines. The fuel filter helps keep
the line deep in the tank. If it comes off, you may suck air.
Hank
Oneof these days you may come across a primer bulb that has a crack in
it and then you'll know what i am talking about. They usually crack on
the tip of the bulb, therefore, when you put your finger on it to
push, you are basically sealing the crack. When you let off, it will
suck air in, not gas. Usualy they don't leak either.
There shouldn't be any air in the lines. The fuel filter helps keep
the line deep in the tank. If it comes off, you may suck air.
Hank
Hank
Jun 5, 2012, 5:41:16 AM6/5/12
to
On Jun 4, 9:01 pm, Steve Barker <ichasetra...@notgmail.com> wrote:
>
> in the future, i've found the best way to "unflood" a two stoke is to
> take the plug out, hook the wire back to it, lay it against the hole it
> belongs in, and yank that rope!. You'll get a little fire and then
> none, and you'll be dried out in a flash. No pun intended.
>
> --
> Steve Barker
That is dangerous and really unneeded. A person has to get the gas out
>
> in the future, i've found the best way to "unflood" a two stoke is to
> take the plug out, hook the wire back to it, lay it against the hole it
> belongs in, and yank that rope!. You'll get a little fire and then
> none, and you'll be dried out in a flash. No pun intended.
>
> --
> Steve Barker
of the crankcase too, not just the cylinder. To get the gas out of the
crankcase, you must pull the starter multiple times. Even then it must
sit and evaporate to get it into the "flammable range" ( air to fuel
ratio). Your way is even more difficult if the carb is still operating
and flowing more gas into the crankcase with every pull.
Hank
Steve Barker
Jun 5, 2012, 11:33:40 AM6/5/12
to
times in the course of my job. (I worked at a lawn and landscape place
with hundreds of pieces of two stroke equip) And the fuel mix is passed
from the crankcase during rope pulling just as it would be during normal
operation. And the fuel mix being pulled through is minimal and of the
proper proportion if the choke is open.
Hank
Jun 5, 2012, 12:53:16 PM6/5/12
to
It spits out an unknown amount of gasoline that is on fire and it
isn't dangerous? You've done it a thousand times?
Hank <~~~~~~ ain't buyin what Steve is selling
Stormin Mormon
Jun 5, 2012, 3:12:32 PM6/5/12
to
I've done the "spark plug out, yank the cord" on four strokes. Can't say as
I've tried it on two stroke. But, thanks for the field report.
The one time I tried to help out, a 10 or 11 year old boy who had a two
stroke scooter. He would push the primer 10 to 20 times, and wonder why it
didn't start. I told him one or two times was enough. I got a wrench, pulled
the spark plug, and pulled the cord to dry out the cylinder a bit. Put the
spark plug back in. Before I could do much anything else, he was pushing the
primer button 1.04 ^9 times, and flooded the thing again.
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Steve Barker" <ichase...@notgmail.com> wrote in message
news:CPudnZF-fvhIu1PS...@giganews.com...
I've tried it on two stroke. But, thanks for the field report.
The one time I tried to help out, a 10 or 11 year old boy who had a two
stroke scooter. He would push the primer 10 to 20 times, and wonder why it
didn't start. I told him one or two times was enough. I got a wrench, pulled
the spark plug, and pulled the cord to dry out the cylinder a bit. Put the
spark plug back in. Before I could do much anything else, he was pushing the
primer button 1.04 ^9 times, and flooded the thing again.
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"Steve Barker" <ichase...@notgmail.com> wrote in message
Stormin Mormon
Jun 5, 2012, 3:13:01 PM6/5/12
to
It's a formerly some what free country.
"Hank" <nineb...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:d10af946-e4ac-4094...@l5g2000vbo.googlegroups.com...
"Hank" <nineb...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:d10af946-e4ac-4094...@l5g2000vbo.googlegroups.com...
frank1492
Jun 5, 2012, 4:47:11 PM6/5/12
to
I will be very careful not to prime too much next time, though the
instructions on the Homelite clearly say "10 times." Unlike the kid, I
won't be doing it twice (2X10.) But what do you do when you have left
the trimmer off for just a while, say an hour, and it won't start on
the first pull? Do you then guess and prime it, say, 5 times? Is there
a rule of thumb for varying engine-off times?
instructions on the Homelite clearly say "10 times." Unlike the kid, I
won't be doing it twice (2X10.) But what do you do when you have left
the trimmer off for just a while, say an hour, and it won't start on
the first pull? Do you then guess and prime it, say, 5 times? Is there
a rule of thumb for varying engine-off times?
Stormin Mormon
Jun 5, 2012, 5:42:50 PM6/5/12
to
I always figure I can prime more later, but it's hard to unprime. So, I
start with the smaller number of bulb pushes. I know of no formula. Would be
too easy, if there were.
"frank1492" <fran...@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:2prss71036jpl144k...@4ax.com...
start with the smaller number of bulb pushes. I know of no formula. Would be
too easy, if there were.
"frank1492" <fran...@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:2prss71036jpl144k...@4ax.com...
Hank
Jun 5, 2012, 6:11:38 PM6/5/12
to
On Jun 5, 4:47 pm, frank1492 <frank1...@verizon.net> wrote:
> I will be very careful not to prime too much next time, though the
> instructions on the Homelite clearly say "10 times." Unlike the kid, I
> won't be doing it twice (2X10.) But what do you do when you have left
> the trimmer off for just a while, say an hour, and it won't start on
> the first pull? Do you then guess and prime it, say, 5 times? Is there
> a rule of thumb for varying engine-off times?
>
Air cooled engines cool off pretty quickly. Start it as you normally
> I will be very careful not to prime too much next time, though the
> instructions on the Homelite clearly say "10 times." Unlike the kid, I
> won't be doing it twice (2X10.) But what do you do when you have left
> the trimmer off for just a while, say an hour, and it won't start on
> the first pull? Do you then guess and prime it, say, 5 times? Is there
> a rule of thumb for varying engine-off times?
>
would. If you think it may be flooded, hold the throttle wide open,
open choke, and pull a 5-6 times. If it was just flooded a little, it
should fire up. It will smoke a little but keep the throttle wide open
until it quits smoking and runs at the high RPM.
Hank
Hank
Jun 5, 2012, 6:12:47 PM6/5/12
to
On Jun 5, 3:13 pm, "Stormin Mormon"
Hank <~~~~~ thinks safety first
<cayoung61***spambl...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> It's a formerly some what free country.
>
> Christopher A. Young
Yes it is, but he wouldn't be working in my shop very long.
> It's a formerly some what free country.
>
> Christopher A. Young
Hank <~~~~~ thinks safety first
Steve Barker
Jun 5, 2012, 6:29:23 PM6/5/12
to
probably did it an average of once a day. And there can't be TOO much
gasoline in there or they would hydrolock.
Ed Pawlowski
Jun 5, 2012, 10:08:39 PM6/5/12
to
On Tue, 05 Jun 2012 17:29:23 -0500, Steve Barker
<ichase...@notgmail.com> wrote:
>
>Well, maybe not THOUSANDS... I worked at the place 12 years and
>probably did it an average of once a day. And there can't be TOO much
>gasoline in there or they would hydrolock.
But what about the children? If you did it near a school, they could
<ichase...@notgmail.com> wrote:
>
>Well, maybe not THOUSANDS... I worked at the place 12 years and
>probably did it an average of once a day. And there can't be TOO much
>gasoline in there or they would hydrolock.
be injured. You're endangering and entire community with explosive
vapors ! ! ! and causing cancer in California
Ed Pawlowski
Jun 5, 2012, 10:10:47 PM6/5/12
to
On Tue, 05 Jun 2012 16:47:11 -0400, frank1492 <fran...@verizon.net>
wrote:
>I will be very careful not to prime too much next time, though the
>instructions on the Homelite clearly say "10 times." Unlike the kid, I
>won't be doing it twice (2X10.) But what do you do when you have left
>the trimmer off for just a while, say an hour, and it won't start on
>the first pull? Do you then guess and prime it, say, 5 times? Is there
>a rule of thumb for varying engine-off times?
>
My rule of thumb is what works. My chains saw, four times, lawnmower,
five, snowblower ten. According tot he instructions with each, the
number varies from what actually works for me.
wrote:
>I will be very careful not to prime too much next time, though the
>instructions on the Homelite clearly say "10 times." Unlike the kid, I
>won't be doing it twice (2X10.) But what do you do when you have left
>the trimmer off for just a while, say an hour, and it won't start on
>the first pull? Do you then guess and prime it, say, 5 times? Is there
>a rule of thumb for varying engine-off times?
>
five, snowblower ten. According tot he instructions with each, the
number varies from what actually works for me.
Steve Barker
Jun 5, 2012, 11:05:13 PM6/5/12
to
Hank
Jun 6, 2012, 5:40:38 AM6/6/12
to
On Jun 5, 6:29 pm, Steve Barker <ichasetra...@notgmail.com> wrote:
>
> Well, maybe not THOUSANDS... I worked at the place 12 years and
> probably did it an average of once a day. And there can't be TOO much
> gasoline in there or they would hydrolock.
>
> --
> Steve Barker
> remove the "not" from my address to email
You aren't too good at math are you?
>
> Well, maybe not THOUSANDS... I worked at the place 12 years and
> probably did it an average of once a day. And there can't be TOO much
> gasoline in there or they would hydrolock.
>
> --
> Steve Barker
> remove the "not" from my address to email
52 weeks in a year. 2 weeks off for vacation = 50 weeks of working
If you worked the typical 5 day week, that equates to 250 day per
year.
Doing it "on average of once a day" for 250 days per year for 12 years
is 3000 times.
Hank <~~~~ still ain't buyin Steves story
Jon Danniken
Jun 6, 2012, 9:53:03 AM6/6/12
to
On 06/05/2012 01:47 PM, frank1492 wrote:
> I will be very careful not to prime too much next time, though the
> instructions on the Homelite clearly say "10 times."
The instruction manual that came with mine states to push the primer
> I will be very careful not to prime too much next time, though the
> instructions on the Homelite clearly say "10 times."
bulb until gas appears in the bulb. The manual that came with a
previous version did state the same as you stated.
I'm guessing they were getting too many calls about flooded engines.
Jon
tra...@optonline.net
Jun 6, 2012, 10:08:51 AM6/6/12
to
wasn't sure. There is definitely no air from the suction
line to the bulb or from the bulb to the carb.
Only in the return line. So,
I would think either it's a leak right where the fuel hose
joins the carb or more likely inside the carb. If it
were leaking at the carb connection, I should see
some fuel leak when I push the prime bulb, no?
tickedoff
Jul 16, 2016, 9:44:05 PM7/16/16
to
replying to Ed Pawlowski, tickedoff wrote:
seriously , they only last a few hours. are you talking about an electric
one. mine is hardly ever used also and it just stopped just like that.
--
posted from
http://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/new-homelite-trimmer-won-t-start-699695-.htm
seriously , they only last a few hours. are you talking about an electric
one. mine is hardly ever used also and it just stopped just like that.
--
posted from
http://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/new-homelite-trimmer-won-t-start-699695-.htm
notbob
Jul 16, 2016, 10:21:38 PM7/16/16
to
On 2016-07-17, tickedoff <caedfaa9ed1216d60e...@example.com> wrote:
> replying to Ed Pawlowski, tickedoff wrote:
> seriously , they only last a few hours. are you talking about an electric
> one. mine is hardly ever used also and it just stopped just like that.
>
I jes went thru this particular nightmare. Our HOA has six gas
> replying to Ed Pawlowski, tickedoff wrote:
> seriously , they only last a few hours. are you talking about an electric
> one. mine is hardly ever used also and it just stopped just like that.
>
trimmers. All dead except a Stihl, which still runs, but the line
feed is broken and so line must be pulled out by hand.
I got my hands on a Poulan. I bought a new spark plug and it still
wouldn't start. Tried new gas (non-ethanol) and oil. Nada. Finally
resorted to a squirt of ether. Damn thing finally fired and ran.
These engines (31cc) are so narrowly tuned, they shouldn't be messed
with. Jes taking the cover off the filter leand the engine out of
running range, so hadda shoot a shot of ether, replace the filter
cover, and hope I did it fast enough to the start engine. At least
the bump line feed on the Poulan actually worked, despite having to
really "bump" it on a rock or hard ground.
Having gone through enough of these junky gas trimmers, I think I'd
prefer an old fashion Grass Whip. ;)
nb
byundt
Sep 2, 2022, 7:45:10 PM9/2/22
to
Brand-new unit wouldn't start even though fuel was visible in the bulb. After trying the tips suggested on-line with no success, I guessed that the bulb siphon tube wasn't primed. I tilted the trimmer so the siphon tube was flooded, pushed the bulb a few times, and unit started right up.
--
For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/new-homelite-trimmer-won-t-start-699695-.htm
--
For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/new-homelite-trimmer-won-t-start-699695-.htm
0 new messages