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removing paint from concrete block wall

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Graven Water

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Dec 6, 2011, 8:43:05 AM12/6/11
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I need to remove some paint from a concrete block wall, before waterproofing
it.
I have a drill that uses bits with 1/4? hex shank.
So far I've tried a 4" brass wire wheel and a small brass wire cup. The
wire cup doesn't work at all. The wire wheel gets off a lot of the paint,
but not all of it. The problem is the roughness of the concrete block
surface. The wire wheel does fine at removing the paint from the mortar
between blocks.
I can get the paint off fine by hand with a tiny wire brush I have, if I
really bear down. But I have about 100 sq feet of wall to do, and that would
be way too much work.
I'm sure sandblasting would get the paint off, but I've never sandblasted
anything and I don't know anything about it. I don't know if you can rent a
small sandblaster. There's a ceramic tile floor, a wood staircase and a
painted closet near that area that would have to be protected. Sandblasting
would make a big mess.
Is there some kind of wire brush that would work better than the ones I've
tried?

thanks
Laura

Home Guy

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Dec 6, 2011, 9:38:09 AM12/6/11
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Graven Water wrote:
>
> I need to remove some paint from a concrete block wall, before
> waterproofing it.

Is this wall below grade (ie - a basement wall) ?

> I have a drill that uses bits with 1/4" hex shank.
> So far I've tried a 4" brass wire wheel and a small brass wire cup.
> The wire cup doesn't work at all. The wire wheel gets off a lot of
> the paint, but not all of it. The problem is the roughness of the
> concrete block surface. The wire wheel does fine at removing the
> paint from the mortar between blocks.

Depending on how big this wall is, using a drill with a wire brush can
be really labor intensive.

And you can mess up the grouting beteen the blocks if you're not
careful.

> I can get the paint off fine by hand with a tiny wire brush I have,
> if I really bear down. But I have about 100 sq feet of wall to do,
> and that would be way too much work.

> I'm sure sandblasting would get the paint off, but I've never
> sandblasted anything and I don't know anything about it. I don't
> know if you can rent a small sandblaster. There's a ceramic tile
> floor, a wood staircase and a painted closet near that area that
> would have to be protected. Sandblasting would make a big mess.

Ok, so what I'm getting now is that you're working on the *INSIDE* or
interior face of this block wall.

I've never had to deal with a water problem for a block wall, but it
would be my guess that you can't fix such water problems from the
inside. You have to make the wall waterproof from the outside. And I'm
thinking this is a basement wall.

> Is there some kind of wire brush that would work better than the
> ones I've tried?

I think you're wasting your time.

You don't waterproof the interior side of walls.

harry

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Dec 6, 2011, 11:12:01 AM12/6/11
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If it's that hard to remove, why bother? Get the loose off and just
apply your new finish on top of it.

Graven Water

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Dec 7, 2011, 9:50:15 AM12/7/11
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So far a wire brush drill bit is the best idea, and it's not too much work.
Does anyone know what would be the best drill bit for removing paint from a
concrete block wall? The drill bits I've tried have crimped brass bristles
and they haven't worked very well.
So I'm wondering whether a crimped carbon steel wire wheel would work
better, or perhaps a knotted steel wire wheel.
Or maybe some method other than a drill bit.
That's the sort of thing I'm interested in hearing about, not other stuff.
Laura

Home Guy

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Dec 7, 2011, 10:01:00 AM12/7/11
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Graven Water wrote:

> I need to remove some paint from a concrete block wall, before
> waterproofing it.

> So far a wire brush drill bit is the best idea, and it's not too
> much work.

Why are you trying to apply waterproofing to the interior side of a
basement block wall?

You still haven't answered that question.

> That's the sort of thing I'm interested in hearing about, not other
> stuff.

We're only trying to help you.

You will never stop leaks in a concrete block wall from the inside.

Jim Elbrecht

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Dec 7, 2011, 10:22:28 AM12/7/11
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On Wed, 7 Dec 2011 09:50:15 -0500 (EST), pb...@grex.org (Graven Water)
wrote:
A 'bit' is the drilling tool that goes into your drill. [it was easier
to distinguish when we used braces with our bits] I think the right
term would be 'attachment'.

I've had pretty good luck with Roto Stripper types of tools. Even
more dangerous than a wire brush-- and will eat soft spots in your
block or mortar, but quicker than a wire brush-- especially on thick
paint.
http://www.amazon.com/Special-Machine-Tool-CG-1-Stripper/dp/B00002N9E2

You will still want an assortment of wire brushes for getting into
corners or crevices--- And a full face shield is a good idea with
all of those tools.

Jim

Robert Macy

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Dec 7, 2011, 10:41:09 AM12/7/11
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I do NOT recommend sandblasting.

From experience at removing years, and years, of paint on an older
home.
Rented a BIG sandblaster, got 10 bags of small grain sand blasting
sand.
Power up, loud noise, and sand goes EVERYWHERE! luckily didn't care
about the floor.
The paint was so hard even the blasting did almost nothing, took a
great deal of time to develop the skill to remove the paint, but not
much of the wood underneath, nor much of the plaster/lathe at the side
of the wood.
Sandblasting was so brutal and the paint so hard that sitting on one
spot, nothing would happen and then suddenly the sand would chew right
down through the wood! After NEVER getting what I wanted, I gave up
and simply 'textured' the wood as the sand blasting ate down into the
soft bits, leaving ridges of harder growth riings. Stained the bare,
textured boards. The final result was an exceptionally interesting
pattern of texture, 1/8 to 1/4 inch deep into the wood. But, work was
dusty, irritating, hard work to do taking several days, and hurt the
ears even with ear plugs.
Grit showed up for years, and years, and years.
Fifteen years later, when repairing a door latch, dumped around 1/4
cup of sand out of the door before could continue.

No, I don't recommend sandblasting.

Home Guy

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Dec 7, 2011, 11:46:49 AM12/7/11
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Jim Elbrecht wrote:

> You will still want an assortment of wire brushes for getting into
> corners or crevices--- And a full face shield is a good idea
> with all of those tools.

Robert Macy wrote:

> I do NOT recommend sandblasting.

Your efforts at informing this person are wasted - because of the
underlying reason why he/she wants to remove this paint...

Norminn

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Dec 7, 2011, 12:03:53 PM12/7/11
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You will not get the paint off concrete block with a power brush.
Pressure washing is only way I can even consider, and the paint would
have to be loose. Waterproofing INTERIOR wall? Why, in the world?

chaniarts

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Dec 7, 2011, 4:01:15 PM12/7/11
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what about a citrus based chemical paint stripper?

Robert Macy

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Dec 7, 2011, 4:51:06 PM12/7/11
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Thanks, picked up on that, but gave me an 'excuse' to share the
debacle with others.

Twayne

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Dec 7, 2011, 5:46:20 PM12/7/11
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In news:4EDF9879...@Guy.com,
Home Guy <Ho...@Guy.com> typed:
Not necessary to know "why".


Home Guy

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Dec 7, 2011, 6:07:26 PM12/7/11
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Twayne wrote:

> > Your efforts at informing this person are wasted -
> > because of the underlying reason why he/she wants to
> > remove this paint...
>
> Not necessary to know "why".

For the enlightened and creative thinkers among us - yes it is.

Evan

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Dec 7, 2011, 7:46:54 PM12/7/11
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@Laura:

Sandblasting is overkill and will only make a mess...

Removing by hand with a wire brush will take forever...

You should contact a mold abatement/fire restoration contractor
and have the block wall blasted with dry ice pellets, works just like
sandblasting except no grit left over, the sublimation of the ice
pellets
coming out of the nozzle under pressure creates quite a blasting
force...

I am baffled just as everyone else is as to why you are trying to
waterproof this block wall from the inside... You need to dig up the
outside of the wall and have it sprayed with hot tar or a rubberized
membrane material to stop the water from getting INTO the wall
itself... It can cause the wall to crack and crumble apart if the
water
is allowed to remain inside the block wall itself...

~~ Evan

bob haller

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Dec 7, 2011, 9:18:08 PM12/7/11
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> I am baffled just as everyone else is as to why you are trying to
> waterproof this block wall from the inside...  You need to dig up the
> outside of the wall and have it sprayed with hot tar or a rubberized
> membrane material to stop the water from getting INTO the wall
> itself...  It can cause the wall to crack and crumble apart if the
> water
> is allowed to remain inside the block wall itself...


wet basements are very common.

its ultimately impossible to seal water out. even if you seal the
walls the water can and will come up thru the floor.

my moms house had a wet basement, I spent 8 grand on new downspout
drains to daylight near curb, resloped entire yard, exterior french
drain, new sidewalks and steps.

the water stopped for awhile then came up thru basement floor.

I gave up and spent 3500 bucks for interior french drain which finally
ended the problem.....

you cant seal water out, the drlock paint will actually bubble.....

drylock paint of any brand is just a grand waste of money and time

Evan

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Dec 7, 2011, 10:59:45 PM12/7/11
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It depends on how much you paid for the concrete foundation
and slab when it was poured -- typical residential grade concrete
yes, leaks like a bastard... If you pay a little more for a higher
psi rated concrete mix, you don't have that problem...

~~ Evan

bob haller

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Dec 8, 2011, 7:07:45 AM12/8/11
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> It depends on how much you paid for the concrete foundation
> and slab when it was poured -- typical residential grade concrete
> yes, leaks like a bastard...  If you pay a little more for a higher
> psi rated concrete mix, you don't have that problem...
>

concrete can crack, and water leaks at cracks... give any basement
enough time and leaks can and will occur.....

redirect water away from basement is only sure method

adventures...@gmail.com

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Feb 18, 2015, 8:28:10 PM2/18/15
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I suggest* apply a thin coat of off-the-shelf paint stripper using an old brush, (wear gloves, glasses and long sleeves) wait 30 mins or so then waterblast. [I'm
imagining an external wall obviously...]

If there is much residual, wait a couple weeks (provided weather is dry and warm) and then get a professional to sandblast with fine grit. Voila. Bare breeze blocks.

Will NOT stop your water problem. This is cosmetic only.

*I have NOT tried this, but have extensive painting and waterblasting experience.

this is tough

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Sep 16, 2017, 1:44:10 PM9/16/17
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replying to Home Guy, this is tough wrote:
Some products like Bue Max (look it up) must have a paint free surface. Think
about it. If the paint behind the waterproofing compound fails , the product
will fail.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/removing-paint-from-concrete-block-wall-673922-.htm


this is tough

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Sep 16, 2017, 1:44:10 PM9/16/17
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replying to Home Guy, this is tough wrote:
There is a product called Blue Max from Ames Research that does a great job of
waterproofing from the inside. the while color is called Block & Wall. The
most difficult part is removing the old paint off the wall first. You can't
use a stripper.

Rob K

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Feb 20, 2021, 7:01:04 PM2/20/21
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hes doing drylock paint just as i did when my basement had a few leaks in a few spots. You use hydraulic cement to patch cracks or leaky spots, than 2 coats of drylock paint and yes it does repair the leaks when you cant spend 25k to have a company dig up all around your foundation. I used a wide spackle knife to get the easy paint off that was already flaking. Used wire wheels in a drill, use a corded drill because you need the most power and its a bitch no matter what you use. Take your time and work 2 hours a day on it until its done. Dont half ass it and not remove all the paint because you will waste your time doing all this work in the end if you do.

--
For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/removing-paint-from-concrete-block-wall-673922-.htm

Tekkie©

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Feb 22, 2021, 4:53:36 PM2/22/21
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On Sun, 21 Feb 2021 00:00:59 +0000, Rob K posted for all of us to digest...

>
> hes doing drylock paint just as i did when my basement had a few leaks in a few spots. You use hydraulic cement to patch cracks or leaky spots, than 2 coats of drylock paint and yes it does repair the leaks when you cant spend 25k to have a company dig up all around your foundation. I used a wide spackle knife to get the easy
paint off that was already flaking. Used wire wheels in a drill, use a corded drill because you need the most power and its a bitch no matter what you use. Take your time and work 2 hours a day on it until its done. Dont half ass it and not remove all the paint because you will waste your time doing all this work in the end if
you do.

Posted 9 years ago.

--
Tekkie
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