Copper tape vs. Steel braid tracks.
fprintf
security tape, or more recently Copper tape from Stained Glass
suppliers. I have only recently begun in this hobby, and have a Ninco
Rally set w/ a small track. The plastic track it comes with has steel
rails, and the cars that come with it have magnets. Having never
driven on a laid copper track - how does the driving experience compare?
I asked RadTrax about their track, and they said that their 1/32 track
is steel braid so that the cars can use magnets. I do not want to go
through the hassle or routing an additional two lines per lane, so I'd
like peoples opinions on driving wood non-magnetic tracks vs. the set
type track. In other words, everyone who has built their own track has
said it is easy and very fulfilling to build *and* drive. But I have
never heard what it is like to drive modern cars on those tracks. I
assume it is more challenging to drive w/o magnets - but is it fun?
Thanks!
Stuart
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Niall Connolly
Copper tape is fine. If you'd like to see a snap of my own effort
email me your address.
Niall Connolly
10135...@compuserve.com
Morten Staale
a scalex track with a Viper with the new and strong magnet is fun (for a
while;-)
It is also detrimental to any kind of scenery that comes in the way;-)
magnet less means to me more predictable - you can dance on the line (and
know it!) it really makes sense to powerslide through the curve and gain
those milliseconds by positioning the car exactly right out of the curve
and slam it down the straigth.
With magnets it will go faster for sure, but you will not know the line
before
you have crossed it and are tossed into the wall/scenery or similiar;-)
The only issue is that the basis of several "modern" cars is that they are
dependent
on the magnet for proper behavior. Lead tape (fake stained glass tape;-) is
my solution
for weighing up a FLY Viper for "proper" slotting.
I dont have to many Ninco cars, but the McLaren F1 performs very nice
without any
modifications, the Ninco Classics doesnt have any magnets to start with so
it should
not be an issue here.
A little added weigth (lead tape comes cheap) will make any car a little
better:
Lower the Centre of Gravity.
A slower car (or less voltage to the track) will make it easier to learn the
tricks - just ask my 5 year old;-)
Morten
Raiders of the lost time at work
spam>@hrfn.net Volt
Morten Staale wrote in message ...
philip.day
racing surface it is superb.
Phil
Niall Connolly <10135...@CompuServe.COM> wrote in message
news:84qask$ejr$1...@ssauraab-i-1.production.compuserve.com...
Alan Paterson
Right here is where I'm jumping in, having already run various threads a few
months back about running Magnet's and not, and, also coming from a Scalex
home track to my own routed copper tape track...
I originally felt (even before the slide out barriers), that if the older,
less effective magnets didn't hold the car on a corner, it would simply lean
on a barrier anyway. This was not as effective as it seemed, and I always
felt it wasn't the "right" way of racing, I mean, REAL car's don't lean on
the barriers do they???
I then built my own slide out sections for the Scalex track, which was fun,
but I still had plenty power problems and bad connections etc with the
Scalex track. (I live next to the Ocean, so rust also became a hassle).
Once I had routed and built my first test track, which worked fine, I sold
it to build my current 3 lane track, and with normal, standard enamel track
surface, and clean tyres, the racing is tenfold more exciting and realistic.
Plus, only on a wooden track do you start to see any faults or problems with
your car's, like bent axle's etc. If a car run's perfectly on a "woodie",
it'll be great fun to race, and the realism is much better in my opinion.
I know for a fact that I'll never go back to plastic track for a whole
number of reasons, but woodie's are a lot more fun, they're smoother,
power's much better, and all round, it's a better racing experience. Have a
look at my track and some of my car's here: http://www.big-al.net
Regards
Big Al
Volt @hrfn.net> <volt <no spam> wrote in message
news:s721e3...@corp.supernews.com...
Todd Gamel
> I originally felt (even before the slide out barriers), that if the
older,
> less effective magnets didn't hold the car on a corner, it would simply
lean
> on a barrier anyway. This was not as effective as it seemed, and I always
> felt it wasn't the "right" way of racing, I mean, REAL car's don't lean
on
> the barriers do they???
>
When I first had slot the cars had very little in magnet strength. In fact
on of the new calsses of cars I like to race are T-Jets, which have no
track magnet. I have raced on wood tracks, but only on 1/24 scale. I think
you will find the wood track a real asset if you want a realistic driving
experience.
> Once I had routed and built my first test track, which worked fine, I
sold
> it to build my current 3 lane track, and with normal, standard enamel
track
> surface, and clean tyres, the racing is tenfold more exciting and
realistic.
> Plus, only on a wooden track do you start to see any faults or problems
with
> your car's, like bent axle's etc. If a car run's perfectly on a "woodie",
> it'll be great fun to race, and the realism is much better in my opinion.
>
Hey Al, I have been to your site several times, your track looks really
nice and so do some of your cars. I am sorta curious why you only routed
three lanes instead of four. I have noticed that several of the wood tracks
in South Africa are only three lane is there a reason behind this?
> I know for a fact that I'll never go back to plastic track for a whole
> number of reasons, but woodie's are a lot more fun, they're smoother,
> power's much better, and all round, it's a better racing experience. Have
a
> look at my track and some of my car's here: http://www.big-al.net
>
I have to admit I agree with you on most points mentioned above. However I
have had the opportunity to run on a continous rail plastic track made from
old AFX track. The owner pulled out all the rails, glued the track together
and leveled it out plastic model filler and sanded it smooth. Man now there
was a track!! No click clack as the cars ran round the track, it was sorta
amazing.....[GRIN]....
----> Todd Gamel <----
Michael Neuner
When I was in my teen age years we had a slot club in Buffalo, N.Y., USA .
There were 25 guys in the club and 6 of us had routed our own tracks to race
on. The tracks had 3 lanes & ranged from a 15 foot long oval to 2 tracks
having over 50 foot lap lengths (one of those were mine). Out of those 6
tracks mine was the only one made with copper tape. The benefit of the
copper is the ease of repair, since you can solder it. It also seemed that
the copper was easier to maintain and more reliable than the other
conductors.
Unfortunately we all spent our money on our slot cars and never on film so
no photos exsist of the tracks.
Mike Neuner
Niall Connolly
Email me your address. I've tried tinyworld and get a bounce.
Niall
PS The barriers are installed
EldredP
writes:
>I originally felt (even before the slide out barriers), that if the older,
>less effective magnets didn't hold the car on a corner, it would simply lean
>on a barrier anyway. This was not as effective as it seemed, and I always
>felt it wasn't the "right" way of racing, I mean, REAL car's don't lean on
>the barriers do they???
Darlington...<g>
Eldred
--
Tiger Stadium R.I.P. 1912-1999
Own Grand Prix Legends? Goto http://gpl.gamestats.com/vroc
Never argue with an idiot. He brings you down to his level, then beats you
with experience...
Remove SPAM-OFF to reply.
Alan Paterson
Todd Gamel <game...@airmail.net> wrote in message
news:13B4E308C6F698F0.DE614BAB...@lp.airnews.net...
>
>
> > I originally felt (even before the slide out barriers), that if the
> older,
> > less effective magnets didn't hold the car on a corner, it would simply
> lean
> > on a barrier anyway. This was not as effective as it seemed, and I
always
> > felt it wasn't the "right" way of racing, I mean, REAL car's don't lean
> on
> > the barriers do they???
> >
Hey Todd,
I can imagine how good that track was\is. I as a kid used to have Aurora HO
slots, but, being as destructive as I was, and always trying to modify
things with a Father that wasn't into the hobby at all, it all eventually
dissappeared....
I'm really keen to see the other tracks you talk about Todd, do you have any
of the links for them???
I have been in regular discussion with a handful of guy's here in SA about
building tracks at home, but I'm not sure if any of these chaps have
completed their tracks as yet.
I do pass on my comments about lane number's, and the three lane track was
finalized for the following reasons:
I never have more than 4 people around at best on the track. (For some or
other reason, probably general number's, but there doesn't seem to be that
many people keen on Slot car's over here, they're pretty few and far
between), So, 3 lane's cater's well for a foursome, with one doing marshal
duty etc.
Also, space is an issue, as my garage is a looong single garage, and I still
need to put my beetle away in there on bad days, that was as big as I was
prepared to go for a home track. 4 Lanes makes corner radius rather big.
Other than that, no real reason I must say. 3 car's are generally easier to
marshal than 4, and asd the track is wired with throw switches, I can
essentially run it either way, on any lane, giving me basically 6 different
tracks.
What I have left myself open for is expansion though. That bottom section
you see in the pic's is removable by means of taking out two screw's on each
piece of wood, which would allow me the freedom if I wanted, to route extra
track in there and merely add it on at a later stage, but 3 lane's is just
fine for me. (The club track I race on is a 6 laner
(http://www.miniraceways.com), this is the big daddy of our tracks, so,
there's more variety there.
Todd, if you've got any links to the other tracks in South Africa, please
pass them on, as I'd like to see them ok.
Cheers for now
Regards
Big Al
Alan Paterson
EldredP <eld...@aol.comSPAM-OFF> wrote in message
news:20000104225644...@nso-ca.aol.com...
older,
> >less effective magnets didn't hold the car on a corner, it would simply
lean
> >on a barrier anyway. This was not as effective as it seemed, and I always
> >felt it wasn't the "right" way of racing, I mean, REAL car's don't lean
on
> >the barriers do they???
>
>
> Eldred
> --
> Tiger Stadium R.I.P. 1912-1999
> Own Grand Prix Legends? Goto http://gpl.gamestats.com/vroc
>
> Never argue with an idiot. He brings you down to his level, then beats
you
> with experience...
> Remove SPAM-OFF to reply.
Heee heee,
Being in South Africa, I'm sure 99.9% of the general population here
wouldn't know what you were talking about right there, but as I have to be
the BIGGEST ex-USA Nascar fanatic, I hear you loud and clear buddy....
:-)
Regards
Big Al
Todd Gamel
Alan Paterson <alan@@big-al.net> wrote in article
<3872f48d$0$2...@hades.is.co.za>...
>
> I'm really keen to see the other tracks you talk about Todd, do you have
any
> of the links for them???
>
Here is the URL for what appears to be a pretty ood club in SA...They have
picture of several routed tracks from
there....(http://members.kingston.net/ebyarker/bryan.htm) this site is the
"Yarker Memorial Raceway." Pretty cool site hope you enjoy it.
> Also, space is an issue, as my garage is a looong single garage, and I
still
> need to put my beetle away in there on bad days, that was as big as I was
> prepared to go for a home track. 4 Lanes makes corner radius rather big.
>
I know what ya mean I have a nice 4x12 4-lane HO set-up in a spare bedroom,
but I need about 6x20 to do my 4-lane 1/32 scale any justice....Maybe if I
move my car out of the garage....Yea that's the ticket..hehehe
Todd Gamel
> (The club track I race on is a 6 laner (http://www.miniraceways.com),
this is the big daddy of our
> tracks, so, there's more variety there.
Now that is a 1/32 scale track......Looks very similar to the "Blue King" I
used to race 1/24 scale on. I couldn't tell, but does it use metal rails or
some sort of metal braidin to allow magnets, or do ya'll race without them
on this track?
Alan Paterson
the previous link is Art McEwan's track, over in Canada, not SA. Re: our
track, it uses copper rail's, not tape, but there's no magnatraction at all,
we rely totally on a clean surface and clean tyre's, stock Rubber. We clean
the track and prep it before club racing with a VERY small mixture of Engine
additive and Benzene, which doesn't leave any residue on the track at all,
but gives the rubber tyre's a fair ammount of grip. The quickest way round
the track is definately to keep the car on the racing line, with as little
slide out as possible.
After a few races, there's this neat racing line from the tyre's, and that's
it really, fast, smooth exciting racing. My track at home works the same
way, but I've used copper tape. Also no magnatraction, but no problems at
all otherwise.
Anyway, take it easy for now buddy.
Regards
Big Al
Todd Gamel <game...@airmail.net> wrote in message
news:414E069419918308.BF1EB77C...@lp.airnews.net...
Derek
> the track and prep it before club racing with a VERY small mixture of
> Engine
Careful with that benzene stuff. It's the cancer forming stuff that
vapours off when you fill your petrol (gas) tank.
Jazzmanian
Has anyone considered trying to use "Fret Wire" on a routed track to
try and replicate steel wire found in commercial tracks.
For those who are unfamiliar, fret wire is used in the making of
"fretted" string instruments, like guitars. The wire is like a small
"T" if viewed from an end cross section, and the top is rounded.
The lower part of the "T" has small barbs, so when it is inserted into
a small wood groove, it does not pull out.
Here's a bad ASCII art illustration.
___
/ \
/ \
---+---
|
\|/
\|/
This wire is available from musical instrument repairs suppliers, and
comes mostly in 3'lenths, so there would be some soldering to make
smooth joints etc. Also a problem of making the small grooves required.
Anyways I just wondered if this material had ever been considered by
slot track builders, and what their thoughts were ??
Billy Moore
Jazzmanian wrote in message <00091c0e...@usw-ex0102-016.remarq.com>...
>I thought I'd throw this out there for comment...
>
>Has anyone considered trying to use "Fret Wire" on a routed track to
>try and replicate steel wire found in commercial tracks.
>
Commercial tracks don't use wire. They use braid. I don't think guitar
strings would make good 'braid' for a slot car track. The three larger
strings are made of wound wire. It's very difficult to change frets
smoothly without making the scratchy noise of your fingers moving across the
strings. I think this scratchiness of the wound strings would wear out the
braid on a car in no time. The three smaller strings are, I think, too
small to use.
Billy Moore
John Ford
assume you are talking about HO tracks. I would have never tried it on any
larger scale. It did it's job ok, but was not better than the "L" shaped rail
and though it was easy to install did not stay down long. We cut the slot to
hold the wire so that the wire would fit tight and rise above the surface just
right, but in time, the magnets pulling on it caused it to work itself loose.
We then tried super gluing it in place, and to make a long story short, it was
way more trouble than it was worth. BTW:... It is available from the
manufacturer in spools. I bought two 100 ft. spools at the time and had a bunch
of it laying around rusting till my move down to Corpus Christi. Before you
ask, I haven't a clue as to who I got it from. Just way too many laps under the
bridge since then but if you wanted to try it (I don't recommend you go to the
effort) I would think a little internet snooping would get you to the right
place. If you wanted to purchase the steel rail, I would think Bob Hains of
R.E.H. would be the man to talk to.
John Ford
Jazzmanian wrote:
> I thought I'd throw this out there for comment...
>
> Has anyone considered trying to use "Fret Wire" on a routed track to
> try and replicate steel wire found in commercial tracks.
>
> <snip>
Jazzmanian
I am planning an HO project, but will likely use copper
tape. I was just wondering if anyone had considered the idea.
I find your results with the fret wire pulling up very
interesting, considering it is barbed, but likely it's a
case of the material the track surface was made from. It is
designed to hold tight in small grooves in hardwoods, like
rose-wood etc. Probably MDF or even HDF would not have the
same effect.
Thanks for replying, it eases my insatiable curiosity!
PS To the above poster...We are talking about "Fret Wire"
not guitar strings.
Jazzmanian
> made from
> old AFX track. The owner pulled out all the rails, glued the track
> together
> and leveled it out plastic model filler and sanded it smooth. Man
> now there
> was a track!! No click clack as the cars ran round the track, it
> was sorta
> amazing.....[GRIN]....
I was just re-reading this old post, and noticed the above paragraph
for the first time.
What did the plastic track builder use for rails ?
Did he re-insert the AFX, or glue down copper ?
This would be a cool way to create a track that has 1/16"
slots ! (Also I have a bunch of old plastic track in a box)
Has anyone converted HO cars to use copper braid pickups, on
a track with 1/16" slots ? I know that the "slide Guide" system
is good for 1/8" slots.
Cool idea maybe ?
Todd Gamel
The uys track I raced on was old AFX track.....First, he deciede on what
type of layout he wanted, aquired all the track, and removed all the rails
with a pair of pliers (This is easy I have tried it on my own old AFX
track).
Next he glued all the track sections together and let them dry for 48
hours. His next task was to smooth all the jounts where the track came
together. He filled the gaps with plastic modlers putty, sanded the track
smooth and painted it black.
He as a furniture maker in his spare time and bought wired that is used to
make wire inlay in furniture. As far as I know he purchased the wire in the
same depth as that of the orignal track. I never asked him if he used
anythin to tack it down or not.....
----> Todd Gamel <----
http://web2.airmail.net/gamel000/home.htm
Jazzmanian <jazzmania...@yahoo.com.invalid> wrote in article
<1415c574...@usw-ex0101-002.remarq.com>...
Jazzmanian
I know a furniture maker, but I think, I'll start
by making a perm track, with the original rails
in and see how smooth it can be made with plastic
putty - filing etc.
I am thinking I should drill large holes in my track
bed (wood support) and solder jumper wires underneath
from one piece to the next so no matter what I can
never ever have a dead track section.
Maybe later I'll build a routed 4 lane wood HO track.