4x10 vs 2x12 - big difference!
Squier
with removable panel at the back to close it or open it up)
Anyways - I loaded up 4 10" speakers (2 WGS G10C and 2 Eminence Copperheads)
and started to play. And play.. and play some more.
Damn! This cab sounds great and it has a completely different
character to it than the usual 2x12 cab I play through (Fender Prosonic amp head)
I think I am really liking this 4x10. it sounds good at lower volumes
(something the 2x12 really can't do) and it sounds better and better
as it it cranked up. It has a much more focused sound but it still sounds huge.
And it has a crisper top end and just sounds more 'Fendery' than the 2x12
which is more harder rock (2x12 has WGS Reaper 55hz cone and WGS Veteran 30).
The bottom end on the 4x10 is rock solid - focused punch and no flub out
or 'soft' bottom to it. It can go twang or bang. It's in there. I like it.
So I'm very happy to have a new edition to the tonal spectrum.
It's amazing how a different cab can create an entirely new rig
using the same head, guitars.. etc. It's like a whole new rig to play with.
And the 4x10 cab really doesn't weigh much more than the 2x12 and it's
fairly compact (at least compact/portable compared to 4x12).
Someone said it's kinda like playing through an old Bassman 4x10 cab
but I have never heard one of those in person.
Anyways - now I have a nice punchy Fender type sound with
lots of top end bite and really punchy and tight lows with
neutral/relaxed mids that really likes the mid boost a TS9 gives it.
I think I'll take to rehearsal and I think it might get out to
the next gig and take the place of the 2x12 if all goes well.
The main thing is how well it sounds at a wide variety of volume levels
which is important for gigging (imho). The 2x12 just never sounded
good unless it was cranked which was not good for everywhere we play
and I had to deal with lower volumes and a stifled 2x12 sound.
Anyways 4x10 = very cool! And the speakers are not even broken in it.
Oh yeah! It will just get better and better.
I really think I found what I was looking for.
Yeah - I type too much again - but it's cool to be able to keep
everything else the same in my rig and just a cab/speaker change
gives me an entirely new sound and vibe.
nm...@wt.net
>
> Anyways 4x10 = very cool! And the speakers are not even broken in it.
> Oh yeah! It will just get better and better.
> I really think I found what I was looking for.
>
> Yeah - I type too much again - but it's cool to be able to keep
> everything else the same in my rig and just a cab/speaker change
> gives me an entirely new sound and vibe.
That's why even at the risk of a hernia, I like my Super Reverb.
It's got low end, but not to the point of competing with the bass
player. And it moves the air. So much that in a dive bar, I tilt it
back on it's legs and point it backwards at the wall if the other
amps in the mix are less manly.
I'm using a S/S rectifier module, so I'm doing a tad more power
than the stock 45 watts with the tube rect.. I'm probably doing
55 or so, with less sag than the tube.
Facing forward, it can tickle your gizzard like one of Eric Johnson's
Fenders.. And his are usually twins which do more power than
the SR.
It's a killer Fedner amp.. But it's hell to lug around. I live with
it.
That amp was probably the best deal I'll see in a while. I paid
$406 plus gas to haul it, and it had already been re-capped and
"blackfaced". I've had it a few years and I still haven't had to do
anything to it.
Squier
ah that's a cool amp! but I know (as you said) it weighs a ton!
that's why I personally like head/cab (besides the fact you can
change out either one to mate with another) but it's kinda a 'modular'
way to haul my rig. If the prosonic head and 4x10 was a combo I would need a roadie.
anyways I'm am absolutely lovin this 4x10. I should have done this a while ago
but I never thought to until recently (I am now in a modern country type band
along with some other bands) and one of the country players said to give a 2x10
or a 4x10 a try instead of the 2x12 I was bringing. I think he gave me great advice.
But I also think this 4x10 can rock just as heavy as the 2x12 and can be
used in just about any band or setting I'm in.
ah well - hope you can continue to haul around that Super.
Maybe put casters or wheels on it (??) I know I would.
Burnham Treezdown
>
>Damn! This cab sounds great and it has a completely different
>character to it than the usual 2x12 cab I play through (Fender Prosonic amp head)
Hey Squier. I used to have a Prosonic combo that I was always fiddling with to
get it "right". I thought the Celestion 10s it came with were a little choked
off in the high end (which Bruce Zinky confirmed - one reason he hated what
Fender did to that amp and why he wanted to disassociate himself from it) but it
sounded great through a 12" Reverend Alltone. So I bought 2 10" Alltones for it
but they were waaaayy too bright. I sent them back - probably a mistake.
Now I'm wondering how 2 10s might sound in a DRRI. Supposedly they'll fit. Your
experience is encouraging.
>Someone said it's kinda like playing through an old Bassman 4x10 cab
>but I have never heard one of those in person.
I was trying out guitars at GC through what looked like an original 59 Bassman
that was pulled from the Twin Towers wreckage....but it was a relic job. Sounded
very sweet though. I'd love to have that sound here at home in a smaller, lower
volume box. Which is why I was thinking of the DRRI which I don't use much,
probably because of its uninteresting stock speaker (C12K).
>
>Anyways - now I have a nice punchy Fender type sound with
>lots of top end bite and really punchy and tight lows with
>neutral/relaxed mids that really likes the mid boost a TS9 gives it.
I concluded that the Prosonic drive channel was just like a normal channel with
a Tubescreamer. It's got that same bass & treble cut. Plus it was too loud for
around the house even after I filled it with lower-gain tubes. So I got the DRRI
and more pedals instead.
Squier
Yep. That's my understanding that Zinky wanted it to be a 2x12 originally
but Fender nixed on that and made the combo a 2x10. Unfortunately at the
time (imho) there were no really good 10" speakers to compliment that amp.
However, today you have companies like Eminence Patriot series and
Warehouse Guitar Speakers WGS making killer 10" speakers that are not
at all like the reedy, overly trebly Jensens et al that came in old Fenders
(ok - those weedy speakers gave those amps a lot of character and perhaps
after hundreds of hours of play and break in they could sound nice).
Anyways - if speakers like Eminence Copperhead or Ragin Cajun or
the WGS G10C speakers were available back when the Prosonic 2x10 combo
came out then these speakers would have dramatically changed the way
that combo could sound. I think the decision was correct to go with a 2x12
but that was only because of the limitations of 10" speakers back then
for what was needed for that particular amp.
My suggestion to you is to go ahead - it will be a very cool project
and you will (in a sense) create a sort of hybrid "Vibrolux 2x10" out
of your Deluxe Reverb. Very cool!
Here is my tip: Get yourself a pair of WGS (Warehouse Guitar Speakers) G10C.
The G10C will change your mind about what 10" speakers can sound like.
I like the mix of speakers I have in my 4x10 now and I think all 4 speakers
as G10C would have been over the top (I'm glad I mixed with Eminence Copperheads)
but for a 2x10 arrangement I would go with two WGS G10C.
I know this is the internet and it's 'internet advice' but use the G10C's
as your 10" speakers and your jaw will drop and you'll be grinnin every
time you play your custom 2x10 DRRI.
I also have an early Silverface Deluxe Reverb (which I kind of 'retired' since it's
in collector condition and I just don't want to beat it up hauling it around
and gigging with it). Unfortunately it does not have the 'removable' baffle board
as I think they used removable baffle boards later on in the Silverface series.
So I would have to really have some work done to modify it to 2x10.
So anyways - I do agree with you that the Jensen C12 in the DRRI is not
really the best speaker to put in there (imho) and even after break in
it just sounds generic after the ice pick highs smooth out. So it goes
from slightly bad to boring. But I do think the DRRI amp has a lot going
for it and a speaker change is the way to go. I think you will really
like a 2x10 setup (ala Vibrolux) with the WGS G10C speakers. (or at least
have one of the 10" speakers a WGS G10C if you mix them).
It's a much better speaker than the Eminence Ragin Cajun to get that punch
and big sound - better top end - better cleans and better means - better
bottom end too). The Ragin Cajun was one of my favorite 10" speakers for
a more modern punchy sound - but the WGS G10C just raised the bar for this.
(the Emininence Copperheads I mixed with keep it real for a nice tonal
mix when I play cleaner stuff for country and similar and get along
perfectly with the WGS G10C speakers).
whew. I type too much again - but I just am trying to keep you away
from getting the standard Jensen C10Q and putting them into a 2x10.
You'll regret it. (imho). The only Jensens I would use for 10" would
be Jensen MOD series but even then the WGS G10C blows the doors off them.
Jim
> On Jun 15, 2:06 pm, Squier<squ...@strats.net> wrote:
>
>>
>> Anyways 4x10 = very cool! And the speakers are not even broken in it.
>> Oh yeah! It will just get better and better.
>> I really think I found what I was looking for.
>>
>> Yeah - I type too much again - but it's cool to be able to keep
>> everything else the same in my rig and just a cab/speaker change
>> gives me an entirely new sound and vibe.
>
> That's why even at the risk of a hernia, I like my Super Reverb.
> It's got low end, but not to the point of competing with the bass
> player.
A health Super Reverb has more low end than most guys realize. And if
it has the "proper" alnico's, it also sounds sweet when pushed. There's
some brightness, but also a natural compression.
And it moves the air. So much that in a dive bar, I tilt it
> back on it's legs and point it backwards at the wall if the other
> amps in the mix are less manly.
> I'm using a S/S rectifier module, so I'm doing a tad more power
> than the stock 45 watts with the tube rect.. I'm probably doing
> 55 or so, with less sag than the tube.
I believe mine spec'd out at least that high. Did you rebias those
tubes when you plugged in the SS module? My power tubes were too hot
without readjusting. The tone with the rectifier tube is so sweet that
I didn't bother.
> Facing forward, it can tickle your gizzard like one of Eric Johnson's
> Fenders.. And his are usually twins which do more power than
> the SR.
> It's a killer Fedner amp.. But it's hell to lug around. I live with
> it.
> That amp was probably the best deal I'll see in a while. I paid
> $406 plus gas to haul it, and it had already been re-capped and
> "blackfaced". I've had it a few years and I still haven't had to do
> anything to it.
The Super Reverb does it's own thing, and it does it WELL! I may get
rid of my Twins, but never the Super.
Jim
If you use casters, don't be tempted to constantly roll it over uneven
surfaces, especially with hot tubes. It's a lot of vibration. Plus the
amp is much more likely to tip over with wheels on it.
moonpie
>It's a killer Fedner amp.. But it's hell to lug around. I live with
>it.
not me. too old. I gave all that up a few years ago. I've got single
12 combos and if i want a beefier, louder sound, I put them on a
bitchin Newell single 12 closed back cab.
You young punks with the strong backs, carry on.
And I do mean carry.
Grip
With all the cool amps I already have, I still lust after a deal on a
super.....as for the 4X10 cab, I bagged an 80's Marshall 1965A on the
cheap, sounded great, then I built a replacement back so I could have
it 1\4 open or 3\4 open. Made it super versatile, and is my main cab
for my JMP. Can't remember the last time I used my 4X12 :-)
jtees4
wrote:
100% agree with this one, that's what works for me these days too.
White Spirit
> Ok - I picked up a used 4x10 cab (nice condition, birch ply. semi open back
> with removable panel at the back to close it or open it up)
> Anyways - I loaded up 4 10" speakers (2 WGS G10C and 2 Eminence Copperheads)
> and started to play. And play.. and play some more.
> Damn! This cab sounds great and it has a completely different
> character to it than the usual 2x12 cab I play through (Fender Prosonic amp head)
I used to keep an eye out for a s/h 4x10 as it would be a good
compromise between weight and sound quality. In the end, I discovered
that I could get almost as good a sound out of my 2x12 as I can my 4x12
by fitting casters on the bottom. Without casters, it is extremely
bass-heavy and doesn't cut through properly.
nm...@wt.net
>
> A health Super Reverb has more low end than most guys realize. And if
> it has the "proper" alnico's, it also sounds sweet when pushed. There's
> some brightness, but also a natural compression.
Mine has the Oxfords.. Still the original speakers in it. It does
have low end, but not the gut rattling version you might get from
some 12's or 15's..
>
> > I'm using a S/S rectifier module, so I'm doing a tad more power
> > than the stock 45 watts with the tube rect.. I'm probably doing
> > 55 or so, with less sag than the tube.
>
> I believe mine spec'd out at least that high. Did you rebias those
> tubes when you plugged in the SS module? My power tubes were too hot
> without readjusting. The tone with the rectifier tube is so sweet that
> I didn't bother.
I've never touched the amp since I bought it. How it is now, is
how it was when I bought it. I've never checked bias.. nuttin..
It still has all the same tubes in it as when I bought it, and I
assume that whoever recapped and blackfaced it, added the
S/S rectifier. If it had been me, I probably would have used a
tube rec.. Also.. They totally gutted the master volume. It's gone.
I probably would have left that in, even if unhooked..
I don't know who did the work, except that they were in Austin.
I wished I would have thought to ask him who did it, but it was
at night, kinda late, and I wanted to load it up and get back
to mildew city. So it slipped my mind..
He did turn it on and he played some blues stuff through it.
Sounded real good, so I threw him the cash and said "bye!"
nm...@wt.net
> On Wed, 15 Jun 2011 12:44:28 -0700 (PDT), n...@wt.net wrote:
> >It's a killer Fedner amp.. But it's hell to lug around. I live with
> >it.
>
> not me. too old. I gave all that up a few years ago. I've got single
> 12 combos and if i want a beefier, louder sound, I put them on a
> bitchin Newell single 12 closed back cab.
>
> You young punks with the strong backs, carry on.
>
> And I do mean carry.
The only problem is I'm not young any more.. I'll be 55
this fall.. Just thinking about that causes a sucking motion
in my brain pan... :/
Jim
> On Jun 16, 2:14 am, Jim<inse@ttle> wrote:
>
>>
>> A health Super Reverb has more low end than most guys realize. And if
>> it has the "proper" alnico's, it also sounds sweet when pushed. There's
>> some brightness, but also a natural compression.
>
> Mine has the Oxfords.. Still the original speakers in it. It does
> have low end, but not the gut rattling version you might get from
> some 12's or 15's..
I know what you are saying. 10's do not have as low of a resonant
frequency. So they won't hit and sustain super low frequencies at high
SPL. But the are PUNCHY and RESPONSIVE. ...which is one reason that
bass players like them! But one of my first impressions of the Super
was: "Wow, I wasn't expecting the strong low end response!" My bass
control lives at around 2 of 10. It does have the beefier output
transformer (many silverface have a physically larger output transformer
with a bigger core -- which can result in better low end response and
more low frequency headroom).
>
>>
>
>>> I'm using a S/S rectifier module, so I'm doing a tad more power
>>> than the stock 45 watts with the tube rect.. I'm probably doing
>>> 55 or so, with less sag than the tube.
>>
>> I believe mine spec'd out at least that high. Did you rebias those
>> tubes when you plugged in the SS module? My power tubes were too hot
>> without readjusting. The tone with the rectifier tube is so sweet that
>> I didn't bother.
>
> I've never touched the amp since I bought it. How it is now, is
> how it was when I bought it. I've never checked bias.. nuttin..
> It still has all the same tubes in it as when I bought it, and I
> assume that whoever recapped and blackfaced it, added the
> S/S rectifier. If it had been me, I probably would have used a
> tube rec.. Also.. They totally gutted the master volume. It's gone.
> I probably would have left that in, even if unhooked..
Mine master is still there, and I actually find it useful in this context:
I'm sure that you've noticed that when you use the bright switches, they
vary according to the preamp volume setting. There's no effect when the
volume is up. There's a big effect volume settings in the middle. Kind
of makes sense, because once the amp is cranked you don't want ear
piercing brights, and the distortion also fills in with harmonics. But
with an intact master volume, you can fine tune the bright effect. You
find the sweet spot on the preamp volume that gives you just the right
bright boost , then set master to how loud you want it.
I should also mention that mine was tweaked by Rich Koerner, so it's
been fine tuned. No real "modifications," other than some fall-backs to
the AB763 circuit (and a bias circuit that incorporates both the balance
feature and a true voltage adjustment, by adding a second pot). Rich
optimized the gain allowing me to use the master volume in the
traditional sense: Combination of boost (and/or active pickups) for a
touch of preamp distortion, by reducing the master. Pure stock Super
Reverbs don't do it quite as well. But the pull boost? GARBAGE. So I
just don't pull!
I'm not opposed to gutting master volume circuits, though. I did that
on one of my Twins. You'd be amazed at how much wire that comes out of
it when you do this! The Twin's master has one difference that I do NOT
like. It puts a bright cap across the master volume control as well.
(Think of it like a bright switch that you can't turn off!) I'm
convinced that that one tiny cap is the cause for much of the hatred of
the master volume circuit. But it's super easy to clip one leg of that
cap, bringing the Twin master in line with the Super.
> I don't know who did the work, except that they were in Austin.
> I wished I would have thought to ask him who did it, but it was
> at night, kinda late, and I wanted to load it up and get back
> to mildew city. So it slipped my mind..
> He did turn it on and he played some blues stuff through it.
> Sounded real good, so I threw him the cash and said "bye!"
The ear should ALWAYS be the final test! When it's time for your next
power amp tubes, take it to somebody who knows Fenders. He'll tell you
what was done to it!
nm...@wt.net
>
> The ear should ALWAYS be the final test! When it's time for your next
> power amp tubes, take it to somebody who knows Fenders. He'll tell you
> what was done to it!
I'll be able to see myself once I get around to pulling the
chassis. But I've never had any trouble with it yet, so
haven't messed with it. If it ain't broke, I don't have time to
mess with it, and hardly have time for the ones that are
broke.. :/
I still need to re-cap and tweak up my Traynor Bassmaster mk2
head. But too danged lazy to mess with it being I don't use
em much. It still works, but it's squirrely due to dried caps.
That amp is a real butt burner when working right.. 80-100w
depending on the line voltage. It's my poor mans Superlead/
Plexi clone.
But I also still have an old 63 Gibson Mercury head I oughta
get going. It's about 35-40 watts. It was probably one of
their top of the line heads in 1963 I bet.. It's dual channel,
I think it has tremolo.. It's an amp you don't see all that
many of. :/ I'm curious to see just what it sounds like.
It's probably not bad, and could always be modified to
be better.. Lots of room under the hood. It's dual 6L6's.
It has a set of old Groove Tubes in it right now..
But I'm getting lazier and lazier.. I'm getting to where I
hate working on anything any more.. I'd prefer everything
worked forever and ever, and never need repair.. That goes
for amps, radios, my cars and trucks, etc...
Hell, a few years ago I almost totally overhauled my 68
Ford truck.. New long block, all new front end, including
king pins, all bushings, rebuilt the brakes, etc, ad nausium..
And I did all the work myself. I even stabbed the engine in
place by myself.. But now I'm getting to the point I'm too
lazy to go to the auto parts and get new wipers for it.. :/
One is toast and needed to be changed six months ago.
But due to no rain, I keep getting away with putting it off.
If I can't work up the energy to go to Auto Zone and get
a pair of wipers, no way I'm gonna get off my ass to fix
an amp I may not even use until next year.. :|
At least I worked up the energy to change the oil
and filter on my toy car a week or two ago.. :+
Meat Plow
> On 6/16/2011 1:10 PM, nm...@wt.net wrote:
>> On Jun 16, 2:14 am, Jim<inse@ttle> wrote:
>>
>>
>>> A health Super Reverb has more low end than most guys realize. And if
>>> it has the "proper" alnico's, it also sounds sweet when pushed.
>>> There's some brightness, but also a natural compression.
>>
>> Mine has the Oxfords.. Still the original speakers in it. It does have
>> low end, but not the gut rattling version you might get from some 12's
>> or 15's..
>
> I know what you are saying. 10's do not have as low of a resonant
> frequency. So they won't hit and sustain super low frequencies at high
> SPL. But the are PUNCHY and RESPONSIVE. ...which is one reason that
> bass players like them! But one of my first impressions of the Super
> was: "Wow, I wasn't expecting the strong low end response!" My bass
> control lives at around 2 of 10. It does have the beefier output
> transformer (many silverface have a physically larger output transformer
> with a bigger core -- which can result in better low end response and
> more low frequency headroom).
I gigged 14 years with a Fender 4x10 Eminence loaded cab, Crown 1K pwr
amp and a BBE 383 pre-amp. There wasn't a high or sub freq low I couldn't
hit with that combo. 4x10's are great from all applications.
--
Live Fast Die Young, Leave A Pretty Corpse
Jim
> On Jun 17, 12:07 am, Jim<ask@first> wrote:
>
>>
>> The ear should ALWAYS be the final test! When it's time for your next
>> power amp tubes, take it to somebody who knows Fenders. He'll tell you
>> what was done to it!
>
> I'll be able to see myself once I get around to pulling the
> chassis.
Ah, no offense intended. I am *NOT* very good at keeping track of all
of the people that post and their tech abilities.
But I've never had any trouble with it yet, so
> haven't messed with it. If it ain't broke, I don't have time to
> mess with it, and hardly have time for the ones that are
> broke.. :/
>
I hear that! I have plenty of amps that NEED WORK that I haven't even
gotten around to messing with.
> I still need to re-cap and tweak up my Traynor Bassmaster mk2
> head.
I have a YSR-1 that I bought from a widow of the owner, who said "it
smoked when I turned it on." Still haven't fixed it, either.
But too danged lazy to mess with it being I don't use
> em much. It still works, but it's squirrely due to dried caps.
> That amp is a real butt burner when working right.. 80-100w
> depending on the line voltage. It's my poor mans Superlead/
> Plexi clone.
I love old Traynors. I had an old YVM-1 that was burgled from a friend
that I lent it to. It was the first tube amp that I bought with my own
money, back in high school. That's why I bought this one "as-is."
>
> But I also still have an old 63 Gibson Mercury head I oughta
> get going. It's about 35-40 watts. It was probably one of
> their top of the line heads in 1963 I bet.. It's dual channel,
> I think it has tremolo.. It's an amp you don't see all that
> many of. :/ I'm curious to see just what it sounds like.
> It's probably not bad, and could always be modified to
> be better.. Lots of room under the hood. It's dual 6L6's.
> It has a set of old Groove Tubes in it right now..
>
> But I'm getting lazier and lazier.. I'm getting to where I
> hate working on anything any more.. I'd prefer everything
> worked forever and ever, and never need repair.. That goes
> for amps, radios, my cars and trucks, etc...
You could be typing for me. I made the mistake of buying a few "sick"
amps, and now the collection looks too much like WORK! Not to mention
the Weber AC30 clone kit, still in the box!
> Hell, a few years ago I almost totally overhauled my 68
> Ford truck.. New long block, all new front end, including
> king pins, all bushings, rebuilt the brakes, etc, ad nausium..
> And I did all the work myself. I even stabbed the engine in
> place by myself.. But now I'm getting to the point I'm too
> lazy to go to the auto parts and get new wipers for it.. :/
> One is toast and needed to be changed six months ago.
> But due to no rain, I keep getting away with putting it off.
A back and neck injury provides me with a legitimate excuse. But I've
done things like pull and replace the heads from my '66 Toronado. It
just ain't worth the pain that follows.
>
> If I can't work up the energy to go to Auto Zone and get
> a pair of wipers, no way I'm gonna get off my ass to fix
> an amp I may not even use until next year.. :|
>
> At least I worked up the energy to change the oil
> and filter on my toy car a week or two ago.. :+
My M5 has a cold solder in a stability control unit that I need to get
to. Without it, you have no speedo, no cruise, even the speed sensitive
wipers and variable volume on the stereo get affected! I'll pull the
part, and sent it in to be rebuilt. $180 vs. $1100+ for a new part,
plus God only knows how much for labor, plus a new part has to have a
chip burnt to code in my VIN number! I put it off long enough, though.
It used to only act up when the engine was hot. Starting last week,
it's dead on starting.
nm...@wt.net
>
> My M5 has a cold solder in a stability control unit that I need to get
> to. Without it, you have no speedo, no cruise, even the speed sensitive
> wipers and variable volume on the stereo get affected! I'll pull the
> part, and sent it in to be rebuilt. $180 vs. $1100+ for a new part,
> plus God only knows how much for labor, plus a new part has to have a
> chip burnt to code in my VIN number! I put it off long enough, though.
> It used to only act up when the engine was hot. Starting last week,
> it's dead on starting.
My toy car had a ECU recall. Same problem.. Cold
solder joints with the ones that flake out.
I got the form in the mail about 6 months ago
to go to the dealer and verify it's a bad one and
replace if it is.. But I'm too damn lazy to go to
the dealer. Not to mention I hate going to the
dealer even when I'm not lazy. :(
I don't even like anyone else touching my cars,
I don't care who they work for.. :/
Don't trust the little bastards, and anyone that
scratches the paint is going to get a free front
end alignment unless they want to re-shoot the car.
:(
But I guess I'll break down and do it some month..
Hell, I can fix the damn board myself if it were
to flake out.. So I'm not overally worried about it.
My ECU has had no issues so far. But knowing my
luck, if it were to flake out, it would decide to
do it somewhere like say.. Atoka, OK at 5 AM as
I'm passing the mighty Choctaw gambling emporium.. :/
Never here in town. Murphy follows me everywhere I go.
BTW, that gambling emporium will have a nearly full
parking lot at 5 in the AM.. No joke..
White Spirit
> I have a YSR-1 that I bought from a widow of the owner, who said "it
> smoked when I turned it on." Still haven't fixed it, either.
'It smoked' could be slang for 'it sounded great' :)