Crackly pickup selector switch (Strat)

[JJ (UK)]

As per the subject line, mine has become more and more noisy, particularly
near the bridge pick-up. Once I get it settled in (with some waggling!) it's
fine but it just won't do for a gig.

What gives? Does it need replacing? Is it just dirty?

JJ (UK)

[Tony Done]

I would try contact cleaner before swapping it. I don't know what brands
you have in the UK, but somewhere like Radio Shack in the US or Dick
Smith here in Oz will sell it.

--
Tony Done

http://www.soundclick.com/bands/default.cfm?bandID=784456
http://www.flickr.com/photos/done_family/

[Claude V. Lucas]

In article <k2o7ol$9vu$1...@speranza.aioe.org>,

Tony Done <tony...@bigpond.com> wrote:
>On 12/09/2012 6:20 AM, JJ (UK) wrote:
>> As per the subject line, mine has become more and more noisy,
>> particularly near the bridge pick-up. Once I get it settled in (with
>> some waggling!) it's fine but it just won't do for a gig.
>>
>> What gives? Does it need replacing? Is it just dirty?
>>
>> JJ (UK)
>
>I would try contact cleaner before swapping it. I don't know what brands
>you have in the UK, but somewhere like Radio Shack in the US or Dick
>Smith here in Oz will sell it.
>

Caig DeOxit

[The_Chris]

You should be spraying ALL your electronic parts with contact cleaner
every time you change strings on a guitar....

Nobody can guess if it's dirty or needs replacing based on your
description - but - just get into the habit of doing it with all pots,
switches, and jacks....

[Tony Done]

Just a word of warning on that. It attacked the (nitrocellulose)
finish on my Gibson, so care is needed with at least solvent-based
finishes.

Tony D


Tony D

[Les Cargill]

Take the pickguard off and DeOxIt teh switch.

--
Les Cargill

[Jon Danniken]

This is what I just did a few days ago on my Ibanez. The switch itself
was held together with two little screws, removal of which allowed me
full access to both the flying contacts as well as the contact plate.

Jon

[Too Long in The Wasteland]

On Tuesday, September 11, 2012 3:43:06 PM UTC-5, Tony Done wrote:
> On 12/09/2012 6:20 AM, JJ (UK) wrote:
>
> > As per the subject line, mine has become more and more noisy,
>
> > particularly near the bridge pick-up. Once I get it settled in (with
>
> > some waggling!) it's fine but it just won't do for a gig.
>
> >
>
> > What gives? Does it need replacing? Is it just dirty?
>
> >
>
> > JJ (UK)
>
>
>
> I would try contact cleaner before swapping it. I don't know what brands
>
> you have in the UK, but somewhere like Radio Shack in the US or Dick
>
> Smith here in Oz will sell it.
>
>
>
> --
>
> Tony Done
>
>
>

NOTE : WD40 is NOT contact cleaner!

However it can be used as an ice cream topping or shoe polish.

[Too Long in The Wasteland]

On Tuesday, September 11, 2012 3:59:14 PM UTC-5, The_Chris wrote:
> On Tue, 11 Sep 2012 21:20:24 +0100, JJ \(UK\) wrote:

> k

Wow. That is a bit of bit of an overkill! But no doubt contact cleaner needs to be part o f maintenance ..

And since most pots are sealed .. you need to spray the cleaner into the housing from the rear where there is slot meaning on fenders taking off the pick guard.

[Squier]

take off the pickguard and lightly spray some contact
cleaner on the wipers on the pickup switch.
Move the selector back and forth through the selections
to work in the cleaner and wipe away any grime or dust in there.

Since you are gigging - I would consider the contact cleaner
a temporary fix until you get a new switch and have that wired in there.
Get a good quality switch
CRL 5 way: http://www.allparts.com/Original-CRL-5-Way-Strat-Switch-p/EP-0076-000.htm
that's just an example of a place that has them.

Personally when switches or pots or electronics start to go bad,
if you gig regularly -- use contact cleaner as an interim fix and
make sure to get good replacement parts and get them wired in there!

[The_Chris]

On Tue, 11 Sep 2012 19:49:04 -0700, Too Long in The Wasteland wrote:


> Wow. That is a bit of bit of an overkill! But no doubt contact cleaner
> needs to be part o f maintenance ..
>
> And since most pots are sealed .. you need to spray the cleaner into the
> housing from the rear where there is slot meaning on fenders taking off
> the pick guard.

Not overkill at all. It's like the 3000 mile oil change you do with your
car. Yes - take off the pickguard (another annoyance with regards to
Strats) :) I have rarely seen 'sealed' pots - only on Wah pedals. But,
if it can get scratchy, that means something got in there :)

[Too Long in The Wasteland]

On Wednesday, September 12, 2012 5:37:02 AM UTC-5, The_Chris wrote:

> Not overkill at all. It's like the 3000 mile oil change you do with your
>
> car.

ok

The 3000 moc is a scam . Modern engines && oil simply don't need change
that much, but those fast lube places who collect on an average $75 a visit
won't tell you that.

[Dr. Hyden Zeke]

On Wed, 12 Sep 2012 06:10:38 -0700 (PDT), Too Long in The Wasteland
<smapper...@yahoo.com> wrote:

>The 3000 moc is a scam . Modern engines && oil simply don't need change
> that much, but those fast lube places who collect on an average $75 a visit
> won't tell you that.

It's, with the right fluids, 5000 or so now. It sure ain't 10k, like
the ads say. Filters are major, get the right ones. The fast
lube places are such scams, all of a sudden, they get a rube,
and it's: "..look at this.." and "..look at that.." ...for a price.

Our family has 2 honest auto people we go to, be it fluids,
or whatever. Said people tell us the straight scoop, charge
a more then fair price, and we tip them VERY well for that.

Yesterday, the battery in one on my cars died..AAA jumped me,
I needed a new one fast. 1 call, 15 mins later, one of my guys
has it in my car, all fluids checked, and I'm on my way, faster
then ya can sit waiting in the local rippy-rube. Am I happy?

4 shits & grins, I called the local r/r, and asked the $, and
my guy, with my tip, was $10 less, with name brand battery.

Same with MI techs. I survived in the old days for being on
time, job done 1st wack, and not stealing blind because of it.

I'm glad to see today there are still some out like that. It's
harder for amps, but guitars is a must, ya need a go to tech.

..btw...NEVER use WD-40 on anything musicial, and if ya clean
ya guitar parts once or twice a yr, ok, but you CAN over do it.

Every string change is anal-ish, IMHO.... Just a little is enough..

..spray air 1st..then cleaner..repeat..like shampoo... :)


JJTj





*> SENT FROM CELL PHONE DECK# DX7979342134J1XS <*
*> NO REPLY MODE GIGANEWS F2AQHFDGFJWS-LENO4 <*

[boardjunkie1]

On Sep 12, 10:15 am, Dr. Hyden Zeke <RIDEVAQUERO.DFQ> wrote:
> On Wed, 12 Sep 2012 06:10:38 -0700 (PDT), Too Long in The Wasteland
>

Yea spraying pots/switches is only needed when its needed.....when
they get noisy.

[Claude V. Lucas]

In article <g15158hgbeudvk9h1...@4ax.com>,

Dr. Hyden Zeke <RIDEVAQUERO.DFQ> wrote:

One of the reasons I sold off the amp museum was that the
only local person I trusted to work on the old stuff I had
after decades of screwing around with cokeheads and egomaniac
"amp techs" died and I couldn't find anyone else. Yeah, I know,
I suppose I could have done it myself but I'm just not that
interested in it. Like Oddball said in "Kelly's Heroes"
"I only ride 'em, I don't know what makes 'em work"

I've had even more trouble finding an honest auto mechanic
to work on the Town Car. It might be time to send it to limo
Heaven too. I'll miss it more than I miss my old amps...

[Too Long in The Wasteland]

On Wednesday, September 12, 2012 9:15:12 AM UTC-5, Dr. Hyden Zeke wrote:
>
>
> ..btw...NEVER use WD-40 on anything musicial,

[Flasherly]

On Sep 12, 10:15 am, Dr. Hyden Zeke <RIDEVAQUERO.DFQ> wrote:
>
> Every string change is anal-ish, IMHO.... Just a little is enough..

Change, and presumably not cleaning strings with contact cleaner
commonly combined with contact lubricant. Or, that is, "a" string
change later is anal because and in regards to, as well, changing,
deleterious tone from unmitigated usage. Possibly, that you are
suggesting that tonality can be mitigated by contact cleaner. If so,
I'm a self-appointed expert about tearing the hell out of strings. I
sweat out acid through and into my thick, raspy fingertips for utterly
destroying strings. After two - yes that's as in a-one & a-two - to
three to no more than five sessions, depending on the string make and
quality, tonal dissonance will have set in. I should warn you, that
to continue, figuratively I will devastate your eardrums and blood
will emerge. Is there hope. Will contact cleaner stop the pain.
Please reply soon, as my last batch of 20 items, at $1/US a package (6
differently sized guitar strings included to a package) GHS BOOMERS,
won't last forever, and a batch, similarly priced for $1/US, of MUSIC
GEAR strings are the ones so bad for a single session on wear, I'm
sorely tempted to take them to the pawn shop for trade on a distortion
pedal, or something.

[JJ (UK)]

Wow!

What an awesome collection of responses. I wasn't even gone that long!

The consensus seems to be to get some contact cleaner and use it at least on
the PSW. Since I broke a string right at the end of rehearsal I think this
is a good time to do so...I just need to find where to get hold of some.

Which makes me think of another question...time for a new thread.

JJ (UK)

[The_Chris]

On Wed, 12 Sep 2012 10:15:12 -0400, Dr. Hyden Zeke wrote:

> Every string change is anal-ish, IMHO.... Just a little is enough..

Let me quantify it with this.. I have around 28 guitars - I ususally
change strings every 16 months or so... Believe it or not. And it isn't
like I use one guitar for a gig and then don't touch it for months. I'll
use one guitar for 30 gigs, and then another for 30 - some guitars never
get used out. So, when I change strings, a LOT of time has gone by.

And I'm a HARD player - I never break strings, so, I just have a little
piece of paper in each case that has the date of the last string change...

It's not like I'm doing it every week is my point....

[d.]

What sort of picks do you use, if any?

[Dr. Hyden Zeke]

On Wed, 12 Sep 2012 11:09:53 -0700 (PDT), Flasherly
<Flas...@live.com> wrote:

>On Sep 12, 10:15 am, Dr. Hyden Zeke <RIDEVAQUERO.DFQ> wrote:

>> Every string change is anal-ish, IMHO.... Just a little is enough..

>Change, and presumably not cleaning strings with contact cleaner
>commonly combined with contact lubricant. Or, that is, "a" string
>change later is anal because and in regards to, as well, changing,
>deleterious tone from unmitigated usage. Possibly, that you are
>suggesting that tonality can be mitigated by contact cleaner.

I was talking about the poster, and maybe I mis read it, spraying
the switch each time he changed strings. Tone, no, parts, yes.

Face it, today's ave strat switch can be made of shit, and over
spraying any chem on it can make it weaker. On the other hand,
I know a LOT of players who only change strings when they break,
so thus would seldom spray said parts... Besides, the proper set up
guts with the right parts, should never need multi spraying, esp
each string change. Kayfabe & all that kinda rot...

>Please reply soon, as my last batch of 20 items, at $1/US a package (6
>differently sized guitar strings included to a package) GHS BOOMERS,
>won't last forever, and a batch, similarly priced for $1/US, of MUSIC
>GEAR strings are the ones so bad for a single session on wear, I'm
>sorely tempted to take them to the pawn shop for trade on a distortion
>pedal, or something.

yuk yuk. Does the current RotoSound strings still blister up, I hope,
as my TBird has old ones, I'd never change them..like the neck,
they are un-broken. Does GHS (?) make the 'light top/heavy bottom'
set still, sheit, put them on anything, and bingo. Page put banjo
strings on his LP. At one time, there was only 3 companies making
strings for the USA, and everyone else just re-packaged from them.

[The_Chris]

On Thu, 13 Sep 2012 00:08:08 +0000, d. wrote:

> What sort of picks do you use, if any?

Very Heavy Tortex (Dunlop picks) - 1.44's or 2.0's

[The_Chris]

On Wed, 12 Sep 2012 20:41:17 -0400, Dr. Hyden Zeke wrote:

> Face it, today's ave strat switch can be made of shit, and over spraying
> any chem on it can make it weaker. On the other hand, I know a LOT of
> players who only change strings when they break, so thus would seldom
> spray said parts... Besides, the proper set up guts with the right
> parts, should never need multi spraying, esp each string change.
> Kayfabe & all that kinda rot...

I don't see how spraying contact cleaner/lubricant on moving parts would
make them weaker. Maybe I'm wrong, but, it's done in all aspects of
manufacturing and automobiles - if it moves - it's got to be cleaned and
lubricated. To my simple mind, I would think it would lengthen the
lifespan of parts. Like I said, I have a LOT of guitars, and I'm 48. I
haven't replaced many switches in my day. I've gone through a few pots -
mainly cheap ones. I just think it's a good habit to keep moisture (rust)
from getting in there.

[Flasherly]

On Sep 12, 8:41 pm, Dr. Hyden Zeke <RIDEVAQUERO.DFQ> wrote:

> *> SENT FROM CELL PHONE DECK# DX7979342134J1XS <*
> *> NO REPLY MODE GIGANEWS F2AQHFDGFJWS-LENO4 <*

> yuk yuk.

Yep - these GHS are middle of their pack of 15 or so selections for
"lights" @10-46. Yet another of Best Buy's belated attempts to market
with the big boys on the internet (and perhaps soon indiscriminately
to be paying state coffer taxes). I posted it here, at the time,
lights only for a dollar a bag of six. Couple got them, (limit? one
offer per household) but nobody apparently sidled up to call BB
customer rep like me. Got a honey and talked sweet 'till she
suggested making four discrete orders at 20 packages;- damn, and now
I'm kicking myself for not at least trying to buy out the store for a
straight $100 order. Wouldn't have been much trouble explaining to
her how to write a computer macro to quickly automate that particular
sale into oblivion. The GHS are sweet compared to my last big order
of Rogue strings, by individual string, straight string in long
packaging, in unwound gauges as much as by the gross (144 strings in
12 packs). Rogue really isn't bad either. I picked them up after
seeing a known artist using Rogue for personal practice when
transposing piano scores to guitar, but, after going through three or
four of these GHS -- for that price, there's absolutely nothing there
really not to like.

[boardjunkie1]

On Sep 12, 8:41 pm, Dr. Hyden Zeke <RIDEVAQUERO.DFQ> wrote:
> On Wed, 12 Sep 2012 11:09:53 -0700 (PDT), Flasherly
>

The Dean Markley SR2000 set is a nice R-sound replacement. Taper wound
at the bridge....big round tone. Last forever. I won't use anything
else....

[Tony Done]

On 12/09/2012 6:20 AM, JJ (UK) wrote:

Just another thought. The problem with spray can contact cleaner
damaging nitro finishes is probably due to the propellant rather than
the cleaner. Isopropyl alcohol is a good contact cleaner,applied with a
cotton tip, and it won't damage the finish

[The_Chris]

On Sat, 22 Sep 2012 07:59:01 +1000, Tony Done wrote:

> Just another thought. The problem with spray can contact cleaner
> damaging nitro finishes is probably due to the propellant rather than
> the cleaner. Isopropyl alcohol is a good contact cleaner,applied with a
> cotton tip, and it won't damage the finish

Here's my thought - any alcohol drys things. It's good for cleaning, but
not for lubrication. I always used contact cleaners that doubled as
lubricants - the ones they made for TV tuners.... So, while Isopropyl
might clean it, it's going to dry out the moving part - or remove the
lubrication too...

I have NEVER had cleaner damage finish - but I don't think I've ever
sprayed something from the TOP of the guitar...

[Tony Done]

I tried to clean an LP selector switch by spraying down through the
toggle, some got onto the finsh and left a pock mark. It is only visible
in strong light, but I know it is there.

IPA is commonly use to clean dirty jack sockets. I don't really see the
need for lubrication on something that gets very little work or
pressure, like a selector switch. I use gun oil on non-sealed tuners,
applied from a traditional (for guns) dropping wire.

[The_Chris]

On Sat, 22 Sep 2012 08:40:53 +1000, Tony Done wrote:

> I tried to clean an LP selector switch by spraying down through the
> toggle, some got onto the finsh and left a pock mark. It is only visible
> in strong light, but I know it is there.
>
> IPA is commonly use to clean dirty jack sockets. I don't really see the
> need for lubrication on something that gets very little work or
> pressure, like a selector switch. I use gun oil on non-sealed tuners,
> applied from a traditional (for guns) dropping wire.

Well, I don't know why one would spray a LP toggle switch from the top.
If you take off the back plate, you see that the parts that make contact
are like 1.5 away from the top...

I'll say this - and I'll welcome anybody with an electronics background
to chime in... First off, IPA has water in it. I can't imagine anybody
thinking that's a good remedy for electronics. And secondly, as I
mentioned earlier - it drys things - doesn't lubricate them.

So, that's 2 strikes in my opinion. I'm not saying it doesn't work - but
- of all the things I'd like to accomplish when I go to clean electronics
- adding water and drying them out are low on my list....

As for your gun oil comment... Guns don't have electronics (to my
knowledge), which is why one wouldn't use WD-40 on electronics...

I could be all wrong about this - but - I have a lot of years with
guitars, and electronics, and all that's used is DPL, and Silicone....

And a serious question - I've never seen IPL in a spray form. Does such
an animal exist?

[The_Chris]

On Sat, 22 Sep 2012 08:40:53 +1000, Tony Done wrote:

> like a selector switch. I use gun oil on non-sealed tuners, applied from
> a traditional (for guns) dropping wire.

Okay - I just realized you said oil for tuners.. Yeah, I agree with that.
Hell, I'd use WD-40 for that :)

What makes gun oil different from other oils? How does it compare to
Silicone or Lithium Grease?

[Tony Done]

************NEVER**************** use silicone on a guitar, it can make
finish and glue repairs very difficult. Dunno about lithium grease, I've
never tried it. Old fashioned Vaseline is OK for coating things, beeswax
(which, being a wax is alcohol-soluble, whereas nitro and poly aren't)
is good for timber or wood finishes.

I don't think commercial IPA contains enough water to worry about, and
might be the key ingredient in contact cleaners. It *is* an industry
standard for cleaning contacts, as carried around in little bottle by
roadies.

WD40 is fine as a penetrating oil, but it isn't a good lubricant. Gun
oil is nice and light, sewing machine oil is also good. You can buy
spray-on lubricating oil, as used by locksmiths and the like, but it
would be gross overkill on a guitar.

[Neil Gould]

+1

IPA can clean dirt off of metal, but that's not usually the cause of
crackling switches. Electronic contact cleaners treat galvanic oxidation,
which can contribute to crackling and is not affected by IPA. Some of the
more effective cleaners are pretty toxic, so you wouldn't want to spray them
on anyway. It's too bad that electronics shops are pretty scarce, since they
were the best place to buy small quantities of these cleaners. RS has a
spray cleaner that, like most of their stuff "sorta works", but it's
expensive.

--
best regards,

Neil

[Tony Done]

On 23/09/2012 10:09 AM, Andy wrote:

> Tony Done wrote:
>
>> On 22/09/2012 9:57 AM, The_Chris wrote:
>>> On Sat, 22 Sep 2012 08:40:53 +1000, Tony Done wrote:
>>>
>>>> like a selector switch. I use gun oil on non-sealed tuners, applied from
>>>> a traditional (for guns) dropping wire.
>>>
>>> Okay - I just realized you said oil for tuners.. Yeah, I agree with that.
>>> Hell, I'd use WD-40 for that :)
>>>
>>> What makes gun oil different from other oils? How does it compare to
>>> Silicone or Lithium Grease?
>>>
>>
>> ************NEVER**************** use silicone on a guitar, it can make
>> finish and glue repairs very difficult. Dunno about lithium grease, I've
>> never tried it.
>

> I'd be hesitant. Lithium grease isn't really designed to ever come off
> whatever it is you apply it to :-)

>
>> I don't think commercial IPA contains enough water to worry about, and
>> might be the key ingredient in contact cleaners. It *is* an industry
>> standard for cleaning contacts, as carried around in little bottle by
>> roadies.
>>
>> WD40 is fine as a penetrating oil, but it isn't a good lubricant. Gun
>> oil is nice and light, sewing machine oil is also good. You can buy
>> spray-on lubricating oil, as used by locksmiths and the like, but it
>> would be gross overkill on a guitar.
>

> CAIG De-oxit. JayCar sells it in both spray and pen-tip type
> applicator. Works very well.
>
> WD40 is an ok water dispersant and a _terrible_ lubricant. I'd never
> use that shit anywhere near my guitars.
>
> The only thing it does REALLY well is attract (and trap) DIRT. To be
> avoided except on rusty gate hinges or seized fasteners IMNSHO - and
> even then I'd only consider using it in the absence of silicon spray
> lubricant or Inox/Penetrene, which are about the same price but are
> vastly more effective...
>

I have a can of WD40 in the workshop, but it only gets used for freeing
screws and preventing rust, never as a lubricant.

I didn't realise Jaycar sold De-oxit, the stuff that damaged my LP was
from Dick Smith