Rusty strings (need to change or cleaning ok?)
unix
few months, the strings get rusty. Is it necessary to change them or
cleaning with a cloth is ok also? I'm pretty much tone deaf and can't
really tell good tone from bad as in regards to string condition. Just
wanted to know what others do.
Thansk
Ron
Bruce Morgen
>On Mon, 21 Dec 2009 09:41:38 -0800 (PST), unix <uni...@yahoo.com>
>wrote:
>Prime candidate for Elixir Strings.
Imo Cleartones (made by Everly)
are better -- the coating is
*much* thinner but just as
effective, and it's electrically
conductive so you get the usual
hum reduction when the strings
are touched:
<http://www.cleartonestrings.com/>
No, I don't work for Everly --
I just get six months out of a
set of strings where I used to
get six weeks with D'Addarios,
and there's no rusting or
blackening (a common
D'Addario problem) at all.
Restless Fingers Syndrome
>I'm pretty much tone deaf and can't
> really tell good tone from bad
there you go ..
ends up in my "what a stupid fucking question " bucket.
Master Betty
"unix" <uni...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:d042e250-80e9-497e...@f6g2000vbp.googlegroups.com...
Wipe them down with some Ax Wax before storing. Helps with the rust.
There is no golden rule for changing strings. Some people like old
strings...go figure.
Jim
Jim
I have a few guitars that see infrequent use. I hate it when I grab one
and it has black corrosion spots. It doesn't feel right, doesn't sound
right, and intonation can be affected.
I've gone back and forth on this, but I've decided that once I deplete
my stock of strings, I'm going back to GOLD PLATED STRINGS.
Gold doesn't corrode. The strings will stay AS NEW until you wear off
the gold plating (either through friction with your fingers and pick, or
fret contact). But they did last A LONG TIME for me. In fact, I still
have a guitar that I play 2 or 3 times a month, and the gold strings
must be 2 or 3 years old.
My last stock was "Maxima" brand. I the new ones are just as good.
Here's my source: http://www.juststrings.com/optimaelectricguitar.html
http://www.juststrings.com/optimaacousticguitar.html
FORTY BUCKS FOR STRINGS? Yeah, I know. But you eliminate the
frustration of bad strings after only a couple of plays, not to mention
the hassle of having to change strings.
It does NOT make sense for guitars that are played many times a week.
You'll skip a string change or two, but you'll end up wearing through
the gold plating.
It does make sense for a guitar that is played once or twice a week or
less. The gold will last a LONG time on that type of guitar, and the
strings will feel (and sound) great for a LONG time. When the
inspiration hits you to pick up that guitar, it will be in playing
condition.
Tony Done
"unix" <uni...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:d042e250-80e9-497e...@f6g2000vbp.googlegroups.com...
If the case is damp enough to rust the string under your normal storage
conditions, it can't be doing the rest of the guitar any good. So in
addition to other suggestions, you could try drying out the case - leave it
open in the sun on a hot day. Case linings hold a lot of moisture. - When I
used to take my metal reso to band practice in the back of the truck, the
heat from the sun would drive the moisture out of the lining and leave the
cool guitar absolutely sopping with condensation. That really impressed me
how much moisture the inside of the case was holding. You might also think
about where you store your case, so it isn't subjected to internal changes
in temperature and therefore humidity.
Tony D
Grip
Been playing a long time.....have many guitars.....for the most part,
strings are strings to me, been hooked on SIT forever,....probably all
in my mind why I favor them but I'll use anything I can find a deal
on. Strings more than 3 bucks a set ( I always buy in lots ) are a
waste of money. And I let em' on till the break usually.
RS
wrote:
>sa...@dog.com wrote:
>
>>On Mon, 21 Dec 2009 09:41:38 -0800 (PST), unix <uni...@yahoo.com>
>>wrote:
>>
>>>I keep guitars inside the case, but still if I don't use the axe for a
>>>few months, the strings get rusty. Is it necessary to change them or
>>>cleaning with a cloth is ok also? I'm pretty much tone deaf and can't
>>>really tell good tone from bad as in regards to string condition. Just
>>>wanted to know what others do.
>>>
>>>Thansk
>>>Ron
>>
>>Prime candidate for Elixir Strings.
>
>Imo Cleartones (made by Everly)
>are better -- the coating is
>*much* thinner but just as
>effective, and it's electrically
>conductive so you get the usual
>hum reduction when the strings
>are touched:
>
><http://www.cleartonestrings.com/>
I wish I had better luck with Cleartones. They lasted just a little
bit longer than regular uncoated strings for me. Nowhere close to
Elixirs, which last forever.
RS
wrote:
>I'm going back to GOLD PLATED STRINGS.
>
>Gold doesn't corrode. The strings will stay AS NEW until you wear off
>the gold plating (either through friction with your fingers and pick, or
>fret contact). But they did last A LONG TIME for me. In fact, I still
>have a guitar that I play 2 or 3 times a month, and the gold strings
>must be 2 or 3 years old.
>
>My last stock was "Maxima" brand. I the new ones are just as good.
>Here's my source: http://www.juststrings.com/optimaelectricguitar.html
>http://www.juststrings.com/optimaacousticguitar.html
>
>FORTY BUCKS FOR STRINGS? Yeah, I know. But you eliminate the
>frustration of bad strings after only a couple of plays, not to mention
>the hassle of having to change strings.
Wow, I didn't know they were $40. I used to get those for free at
trade shows. Shouldn't hung out at that booth longer.
Maximas worked OK for me, and longer than Cleartone. Not sure I could
justify $40 though.
You had to have tried Elixir strings and obviously didn't care for
them, eh?
Arlowe
Stainless Steel strings are cheaper...
Flasherly
000 steel wool and an automobile crevice magnet tool to clean up.
Never tried sandpaper. Cover the PUs with cloth when doing the neck
area, pick up any loose debris, then try to be careful if you want to
clean below. The magnet will work, only its not as easy to thoroughly
clean. I can stretch out cleanings, but left to go too far, and
there's going to be a huge tonal improvement. How they feel and look,
sometimes with just a 4-string fresh change for the D wound and three
unwound. Not only tonality, but it becomes more positionally
difficult to compensate by tuning when intonation dives because the
strings turned into crap. Cheap strings stored straight in bulk,
several packages of the same gauge stapled together. Doesn't mean
they're unreasonable or short on sound, I just change them more
often.
Cyberserf
If your strings are getting rusty after a couple of months, then you
undoubtedly have too much moisture in your case...either introduce
some dessicants (silica gel packs) or, the prefered option, take it
out and play it more often...that much moisture is not good for the
guitar (mildew and mold can grow inside the body and the glue will
eventually fail). Make sure your case is dry. You want to keep the
instrument at about 40-50%Rh. Once your strings start to rust or the
windings start to break down, you are far better off to simply buy a
new set. Make sure you wipe down your strings before storing the
guitar back in its case.
-CS
jimmy
wrote:
>I keep guitars inside the case, but still if I don't use the axe for a
Because Christmas is only a few days away, I'm gonna give you the
benefit of doubt & not ignore this as the possible troll it may be.
Why are your strings rusting in the case? I think that's a more
improtant question?
tony
jimmy
wrote:
Can't agree with you on this Grip. There's a world of difference
between 7 dollar daddys & 12 dollar elixirs. Different strokes & all
but, maybe you haven't tried 'em.
tony
Bruce Morgen
Wow, your hands must get
even sweatier than mine do!
My problem with the Elixers
is that they sound like old
strings even when they're
new -- but I agree they do
continue to sound that way
for a long, long time. :-)
One of my favorite players,
Richard Thompson, swears by
Elixers, so maybe it's just
me -- but I just didn't
like them.
RS
wrote:
I've always been a string killer, for sure. Thank god that Elixirs
came along.
>My problem with the Elixers
>is that they sound like old
>strings even when they're
>new -- but I agree they do
>continue to sound that way
>for a long, long time. :-)
I don't get the 'sound like old strings' thing either, Bruce, though
some others have said that. It -seems- like they should sound muffled,
given that they're coated, and I'm sure everyone (including me)
expects that when they first try them. But the teflon has such low
friction that I don't hear any muting of string vibration. Maybe a
change, but not muffled. In fact, I've used regular strings on
occasion, and now they don't sound right. <g>
I use round wounds even on guitars that I use for practicing jazz
stuff, but I like those strings to be just a bit deader than strings
on my other guitars. No problem with uncoated strings...happens
withing the hour. With Elixirs, it never happens. I've been wondering
if they could make a jazz set that's got a bit less edge.
>One of my favorite players,
>Richard Thompson, swears by
>Elixers, so maybe it's just
>me -- but I just didn't
>like them.
See, Thompson knows what's going on. <g>
unix
> On Mon, 21 Dec 2009 09:41:38 -0800 (PST), unix <unix...@yahoo.com>
I can send you pics if you don't trust me chief. One theory I have is
that my kids play while I'm not home and don't wipe the strings. All
my cases are fairly well made so I don't know if it's possible for
moisture to get in. I've been using the Dunlop 65 spray on strings and
it seems to work. (Don't want to try the steel wool really).
Jim
"Stainless" still corrode. Nickel is used as a protective coating for
metals, but it also doesn't last long.
Which stainless strings should I try?
I've seen chrome plated, but that seems like it would be tough on frets.
Jim
I used to buy Maxima at about $30. I bought a few sets when GC
discontinued them, at about $10.
I was not happy to see the price increase with the Optima brand, but I
still leaning towards the expense.
>
> You had to have tried Elixir strings and obviously didn't care for
> them, eh?
I read so many bad reviews that I skipped them all together. I did try
a set of black strings many years ago, and didn't like them. Not sure
if they were Elixir or not.
Jim
I'll second the "wipe down the strings" suggestion, along with wash and
dry your hands before playing.
My normal process after playing *used* to be:
- wipe strings with microfiber cloth
- spray microfiber cloth with Dunlop 65
- wipe down guitar
But once, without thinking, I sprayed the Dunlop 65 on the cloth and
used it on the strings. Some dark stuff came off, and the strings
looked shinier. So I've continued using it on my strings as well as the
body. It seems to help some.
Jim
...I just posted about using the Dunlop 65 on strings. It was an
accident for me, but when I saw what came off, I continued the practice.
Jim
I should also mention that I tried it once on a coffee table, and now
it's the only thing we use (other than a quality paste wax every few
years, as needed). I think of it as windex for wood. More of a
cleaner, no wax residue.
Grip
Not in the past bunch of years, I got some freebees way back when, and
all the material coating them came off in shreds while playing,
actually they were handing them out at a store as demos. I'll go for
the different strokes thing though, if we were all the same what a
boring world we'de live in :-)
Stephen Cowell
"RS" <R...@saynotospam.com> wrote
> Bruce Morgen <edi...@juno.com> wrote:
>>My problem with the Elixers
>>is that they sound like old
>>strings even when they're
>>new -- but I agree they do
>>continue to sound that way
>>for a long, long time. :-)
>
> I don't get the 'sound like old strings' thing either, Bruce, though
> some others have said that. It -seems- like they should sound muffled,
> given that they're coated, and I'm sure everyone (including me)
> expects that when they first try them. But the teflon has such low
> friction that I don't hear any muting of string vibration.
They don't have the spank I'm used to... can't stand
'em. I use machine oil on the new strings... a drop of
3in1 (the only thing it's good for) on the bridgepoint.
They last forever, no problems.... just a little stinky,
that's all. Wipe 'em down after use, don't put 'er up wet.
__
Steve
.
Stephen Cowell
"Jim" <j...@askmebeforeyousend.com> wrote
> I'll second the "wipe down the strings" suggestion, along with wash and
> dry your hands before playing.
Oh yeah... I forgot that. *Very* important for string life.
Wash hands before playing.
__
Steve
.
RS
wrote:
>RS wrote:
>>
>> You had to have tried Elixir strings and obviously didn't care for
>> them, eh?
>
>I read so many bad reviews that I skipped them all together. I did try
>a set of black strings many years ago, and didn't like them. Not sure
>if they were Elixir or not.
Nope, those were probably DR, and I don't think the coating is teflon.
Gore/Elixir are experts at bonding the stuff. Difficult cause of
course it doesn't stick to anything.
If you're spending $40/set on strings, you should consider trying
Elixirs. If you notice, the reviews are split, with the majority of us
string-killers being diehard Elixir fans.
Arlowe
Fender Bullets? I'm pretty sure they have a line of SS strings.
SS is pretty hard, if you have soft alloy frets you might see a bit
more wear & tear.
I don't use SS strings, I use EB Slinky top/Heavy bottom because they
are easy to find and I like big bottoms :)
I use D'Addario extra light Chromes on my Semi-hollow and as of
yesterday on my brand new Les Paul.
sa...@dog.com
One important detail that some may miss. The reason strings go dead is
from oils and dirt becoming jammed in between the windings on the
wound strings. Wiping strings may remove surface oils and dirt, but at
the same time, it is forcing it into the places where it does the most
harm. This is the reason that stainless steel strings go dead too.
They just don't rust. There are even some coated strings where the
coating is applied to the material before the string is wound. That
really doesn't solve the problem of strings going dead. The strings
have to have something that covers the gaps in the windings to be
effective.
sa...@dog.com
wrote:
"Stainless Steel" covers a wide range of alloys, and many grades DO
corrode. It also generally has less tensile strength than carbon
steel.
VampX
> I keep guitars inside the case, but still if I don't use the axe for a
> few months, the strings get rusty. Is it necessary to change them or
> cleaning with a cloth is ok also? I'm pretty much tone deaf and can't
> really tell good tone from bad as in regards to string condition. Just
> wanted to know what others do.
If you don't wipe them down thoroughly after playing and just stick
them in the case then yes, the strings are going to corrode. IMO, the
tone is affected when playing crappy strings.
So you can't tell the difference between a brand new set of strings
freshly strung and old cruddy ones with guff all over them? Seriously
dude, to get the best out of your strings you should change them, and
wipe them down with a microfibre cloth after each use.
Mine are replaced regularly but that's because I'm playing on them at
least 4 times a week excluding gigs.
--
VeronicaX
-------------------------------
VampX
> I don't use SS strings, I use EB Slinky top/Heavy bottom because they
> are easy to find and I like big bottoms :)
Me either. I just don't like them or the way they sound. Doesn't work
for me. I use D'Addarios .10 - .52 (heavy bottoms and slinky tops) now
as the .11's were just getting a little heavy on my hands. Nice tones
but a lotta hard work especially if I'm playing them as much as I do
each week. I was really starting to notice pain in my hands and ever
since I switched that's all gone away.
--
VeronicaX
-------------------------------
jimmy
wrote:
>On Dec 22, 8:40�am, jimmy <bigtoeh...@hotmail.com> wrote:
I have plenty reasons to suspect a troll around here but, no need for
pics, thanks ;) I don't know much about the dunlop spray but I always
thought it was for cleaning the body & not necessarily strings. I
wouldn't try steel wool either. Seems like too much potential for
leaving bits behind. Again, I have to wonder why they are rusting in
the case. Are you storing them in a damp area?
tony
Bruce Morgen
That doesn't explain why bare
wire strings get dull sounding,
even when regularly wiped off
after playing -- keep them on
long enough and their
intonation up the neck wanders
too.
Arlowe
True, and it makes a difference if you are lining a distillation column
in a chemical refinery
Guitar strings are not exposed to the substances or the heat necessary
to cause them to corrode.
However, it you play your guitar inside of a chlorine refinery, near a
furnace you may have a problem using SS strings.
and yes, I am being facetious
IMO, it doesn't matter what the strings are made of...what matters is
sound, feel & the ability to stay in tune.
if you spend all your time worring about what the hell your strings are
made out of then you ain't playing.
Arlowe
If you mean the EXL 140s, They are pretty much the same as the Ernie
Balls I use.
I buy my strings from the US (I am a frugal bastard) and it looks like
the Dï¿œddario strings are cheaper than the ernie balls if you buy in
bulk. Less than $7.00 per set delivered, not bad.
Bruce Morgen
>On Wed, 23 Dec 2009 13:49:06 -0500, Bruce Morgen <edi...@juno.com>
>wrote:
>
>Oh, that's easy to explain. As strings stretch, they develop thin
>spots along their length. Better quality strings do it less.
Good answer -- a new bare
wire string is a long
cylinder that becomes
more and more misshapen
the longer it stays at
tension. As far as
"quality," I haven't
found much difference and
have been told that none
of the big-name string
companies actually draw
their own wire and most
buy it from the same
couple of bulk industrial
sources, cut it, and
attach eyelets -- other
than that, big difference
is in coating (which the
companies do themselves)
or plating (they usually
order it plated from the
supplier, with a few
exceptions) and of course
the actual alloy of the
wire itself.
Just for fun, I bought G,
B, and high E strings of
completely different
brands -- no detectable
difference in looks or
performance after a month
on the guitar.
>
>And the surface of bare wire strings is quite porous. Look at a sample
>under a microscope sometime. You'll be surprised.
>
Did you check the same
diameter strings from
different brands? I
wouldn't be surprised if
they have near-identical
surface pitting because
the wire came from the
same supplier.
Imo it's the wound
strings where you'll
find most of the
difference -- winding
wire on wire is a tricky
process, and very small
adjustments/alterations
to the machinery that
does that can be very
significant.
sa...@dog.com
wrote:
I have found longitudinal cracks in plain wire strings. The point is
that although the wound strings suffer greatly from oils and dirt
getting between the windings, something similar DOES contribute to the
deadening of plain strings, as well.
Meanwhile, I don't buy your claim that all the manufactures buy the
exact same wire. The wire manufacturer can make whatever they SPECIFY.
That means the alloys, tempering, polishing and other facets may be
quite different from one brand to the next.
RichL
I've been using the EB skinny top/heavy bottom sets (also 10-52s) for
years. Was thinking about going to their "beefy slinky" (11-54) on my
24 3/4" scale guitars. Anyway I do a lot of practicing on my acoustic
guitars (6 and 12 string) and playing my electrics is a breeze after
that!
Bruce Morgen
I didn't claim anything
about "exact same wire"
-- I noted that they all
buy bulk wire from the
same few suppliers and
specifically mentioned
that the actual alloy as
a variable. Buy enough
wire and the suppliers
will make it exactly the
way you order it, and
the big string companies
buy huge amounts of wire.
Arlowe
Mine tend to drift out of tune as they age. They get to the point that
I have to retune after playing for 5-10 minutes...then I have to change
strings or shove my guitar thru my amp.
mode-rage...
VampX
> I buy my strings from the US (I am a frugal bastard) and it looks like
> the D�ddario strings are cheaper than the ernie balls if you buy in
> bulk. Less than $7.00 per set delivered, not bad.
Including shipping? I'm thinking Im just going to have to get hold of a
cheap supplier of picks too because I go through them at a rate of
knots. So that might be an option considering and dollar atm.
Last I looked the Dunlop Tortex Orange were dirt cheap for a bag of the
buggers.
--
VeronicaX
-------------------------------
VampX
> mode-rage...
Im jiggy wid it
--
VeronicaX
-------------------------------
VampX
> Anyway I do a lot of practicing on my acoustic
> guitars (6 and 12 string) and playing my electrics is a breeze after
> that!
Well yeah it would. I just dont cope with playing .11's all the time
which is a real pity because I loved their tone but it was just taking
a toll on my hand.
--
VeronicaX
-------------------------------
Lawrence�Logic
"VampX" <vero...@vampx.dot.net> wrote in message
news:00bc8688$0$15606$c3e...@news.astraweb.com...
I bought a gross (144 for people who aren't familiar with antique
terminology) of the purple Tortex Sharps on eBay a couple of years ago,
which worked out to be around 34c each including the shipping from the US.
Guitar World at Nerang, usually a reasonable gauge of a good price, sells
them for $1 each!
--
Lawrence
"If I was a towel, why would I be wearing this hat and this fake
moustache" - Steven McTowelie - 19 April 2006
Lawrence�Logic
"unix" <uni...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:d042e250-80e9-497e...@f6g2000vbp.googlegroups.com...
>I keep guitars inside the case, but still if I don't use the axe for a
> few months, the strings get rusty. Is it necessary to change them or
> cleaning with a cloth is ok also? I'm pretty much tone deaf and can't
> really tell good tone from bad as in regards to string condition. Just
> wanted to know what others do.
>
I'm dreadful when it comes to keeping strings in pristine condition, never
wiping them and usually leaving them on until they break. Despite my
personal negligence, I'd suggest that playing rusty strings with
hand-vibrato or bending will actually increase the wear on the frets. That
being the case, changing them is the best option.
--
Lawrence
"If I don't see you in the future, I'll see you in the past" - Tommy Bolin -
Melbourne 1975
Arlowe
> "VampX" <vero...@vampx.dot.net> wrote in message
> news:00bc8688$0$15606$c3e...@news.astraweb.com...
>> On 2009-12-24 07:07:28 +1100, Arlowe <bare....@gmail.com> said:
>>
>>> I buy my strings from the US (I am a frugal bastard) and it looks like the
>>
>> Including shipping? I'm thinking Im just going to have to get hold of a
>> cheap supplier of picks too because I go through them at a rate of knots.
>> So that might be an option considering and dollar atm.
>>
>> Last I looked the Dunlop Tortex Orange were dirt cheap for a bag of the
>> buggers.
>>
>
> I bought a gross (144 for people who aren't familiar with antique
> terminology) of the purple Tortex Sharps on eBay a couple of years ago, which
> worked out to be around 34c each including the shipping from the US. Guitar
> World at Nerang, usually a reasonable gauge of a good price, sells them for
> $1 each!
How long will it take you to go thru a gross of picks?
(don't answer, that was ment to be funny)
I use ibanez grip wizard sand grip picks and my local shop isn't
carring them any more... :(
Thank gawd fer fleabay :)
Tony
>sa...@dog.com wrote:
>
>>On Mon, 21 Dec 2009 09:41:38 -0800 (PST), unix <uni...@yahoo.com>
>>wrote:
>>
>>>I keep guitars inside the case, but still if I don't use the axe for a
>>>few months, the strings get rusty. Is it necessary to change them or
>>>cleaning with a cloth is ok also? I'm pretty much tone deaf and can't
>>>really tell good tone from bad as in regards to string condition. Just
>>>wanted to know what others do.
>>>
>>>Thansk
>>>Ron
>>
>>Prime candidate for Elixir Strings.
>
>Imo Cleartones (made by Everly)
>are better -- the coating is
>*much* thinner but just as
>effective, and it's electrically
>conductive so you get the usual
>hum reduction when the strings
>are touched:
>
><http://www.cleartonestrings.com/>
>
>No, I don't work for Everly --
>I just get six months out of a
>set of strings where I used to
>get six weeks with D'Addarios,
>and there's no rusting or
>blackening (a common
>D'Addario problem) at all.
Elixirs work way better for me.
And on a related method, I had been "steam cleaning" strings occasionally with very good
results. I use an ordinary domestic cleaner (about 1 kW I think) and with the guitar in
normal playing position I just run the smallest steam nozzle over each string, full length
slowly, single pass, one at a time, then mop up any surplus water, let it all dry and I'm
off again. Can even do it in a break on a gig. Have tried it twice with Elixirs (yes the
wound strings DO eventually crud up with gunge). Way better and quicker than the old
"boiling trick", and the strings can stay on the guitar.
Also good for de-gunging rosewood fretboards (but always apply new finish after it all
dries off).
Cheers
Tony
Tony
>On Wed, 23 Dec 2009 13:49:06 -0500, Bruce Morgen <edi...@juno.com>
>wrote:
>
>Oh, that's easy to explain. As strings stretch, they develop thin
>spots along their length. Better quality strings do it less.
>
>And the surface of bare wire strings is quite porous. Look at a sample
>under a microscope sometime. You'll be surprised.
Interesting; but just to clarify - I believe you are referring to elastic "stretching"
here (ie, from tuning up) - not the inelastic (yielding, creep) stretching that some might
think, which is insignificant, and in any case it would happen even if not played, and it
would not cause intonation issues.
I still believe the main cause of plain string deterioration is that the closer to the
nut, the more they wear from playing; and they rust away more where the coating has been
worn off.
Cheers, Tony
Tony
>
>"unix" <uni...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>news:d042e250-80e9-497e...@f6g2000vbp.googlegroups.com...
>>I keep guitars inside the case, but still if I don't use the axe for a
>> few months, the strings get rusty. Is it necessary to change them or
>> cleaning with a cloth is ok also? I'm pretty much tone deaf and can't
>> really tell good tone from bad as in regards to string condition. Just
>> wanted to know what others do.
>>
>> Thansk
>> Ron
>
>If the case is damp enough to rust the string under your normal storage
>conditions, it can't be doing the rest of the guitar any good. So in
>addition to other suggestions, you could try drying out the case - leave it
>open in the sun on a hot day. Case linings hold a lot of moisture. - When I
>used to take my metal reso to band practice in the back of the truck, the
>heat from the sun would drive the moisture out of the lining and leave the
>cool guitar absolutely sopping with condensation. That really impressed me
>how much moisture the inside of the case was holding. You might also think
>about where you store your case, so it isn't subjected to internal changes
>in temperature and therefore humidity.
>
>Tony D
Even if the case linings are dry, this can still happen when a cool guitar in a
non-airtight case finds itself in warm humid air - the guitar will stay coolest the
longest, and the moisture just naturally condenses on any surface below the dew point
temperature (the guitar).
Cheers, Tony
RichL
But elastic deformation by definition doesn't lead to permanent change
in the string's properties. Once the force leading to the deformation
is removed, the string returns to its original shape.
Inelastic deformation, on the other hand, *does* occur (gradually); I
think it's significant (at least on my own strings/guitars), and it
*can* lead to intonation issues if it's not uniform along the strings
length, which might be the case if you do a lot of bending. During a
bend below the 12th fret, the string is stretched *more* between the
fretting point and the nut than it is between the fretting point and the
bridge.
> I still believe the main cause of plain string deterioration is that
> the closer to the nut, the more they wear from playing; and they rust
> away more where the coating has been worn off.
Probably, although in my case the intonation starts going out well
before the point where the strings are visibly deteriorating. No crud,
etc.
Tony
I assumed that you were talking "elastic" deformation because the effects you mentioned
can be reversible, and you didn't mention permanent changes. Newsgroup contexts can be a
little ambiguous.
>Inelastic deformation, on the other hand, *does* occur (gradually); I
>think it's significant (at least on my own strings/guitars), and it
>*can* lead to intonation issues if it's not uniform along the strings
>length, which might be the case if you do a lot of bending. During a
>bend below the 12th fret, the string is stretched *more* between the
>fretting point and the nut than it is between the fretting point and the
>bridge.
It doesn't matter what fret you bend at,, the tension increases over the whole length. The
angles are different, but the tension is the same. There is just no way that a player's
fingertip could supply any significant axial force along a string to make the tensions
different. There is a possibility that ALL fingering bends the string a little closer to
the creep limit (just at that point), but if that were a factor, it ought to be much worse
around the picking point, as the string deformation is much sharper there, which would
lead to intonation errors in the opposite direction. IMHO the only significant thing that
happens more over the first 12 frets is wear and corrosion (after the coating has worn
off).
>> I still believe the main cause of plain string deterioration is that
>> the closer to the nut, the more they wear from playing; and they rust
>> away more where the coating has been worn off.
>
>Probably, although in my case the intonation starts going out well
>before the point where the strings are visibly deteriorating. No crud,
>etc.
Maybe it's just not so easy to see the wearing process on a 0.010" diameter string? I
think this is very true for players that don't have particularly acidic hands, especially
if they play really often, as the polished steel string doesn't look much different from
the coating that wore off.
RichL
> It doesn't matter what fret you bend at,, the tension increases over
> the whole length. The angles are different, but the tension is the
> same. There is just no way that a player's fingertip could supply any
> significant axial force along a string to make the tensions
> different.
I don't know about that. I'm guessing the finger provides enough force
to imbalance things. Whether that's significant in string wear is
another issue, I'm really just guessing.
Think of it this way...at least for me, when I'm bending strings, I'm
pushing or pulling parallel to the frets, and I don't think there's any
slipping of the string under the fingertip, at least I can't see it or
feel it. Friction holds it in place. If that's the case, then the
shorter of the two string segments experiences a greater percentage
extension (strain).
Tom from Texas
original equipment warrantee!!!
--
Tom from Texas
(The Tom Risner Fund for Deserving North Texas Guitarplayers is not liable
for any slander, hurt feelings, pointless moaning, or achy-breaky heartache
any post under this name should cause. Yall want easy cash or sympathy...
ye can kiss my grits!!)
"Tony" <to...@nowhere.com> wrote in message
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