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Sovtek Mig 50H (Midget 50 head)

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Squier

unread,
Jul 8, 2012, 2:14:29 PM7/8/12
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Holy smokes! This is a killer amp - small size but heavy little thing.
Huge transformers in here (as big as or maybe bigger than the old
Mesa/Boogie Mark I, II, III series). Translates into a huge sound
with as much thump (I mean clear, clean thump bottom end) as you
would ever need. Nice mids and just a smooth but present top end.

Pair of 6L6's and simple control layout (Volume, Master Volume
and Bass, Mid, Treble and 'Presence' knob). Signal goes through
the 2 volumes then onto Bass -> Mid -> Treble -> Presence

single channel amp although it has 2 separate inputs for
choosing whether to play through the High or low input.
Kinda sounds Marshally to me on the High input and Fender bassman/JTM 45
on the low input. Supposed to be around 50 watts output but it seems
to be a lot more when it gets cranked up.

pair of 6L6 and three preamp tubes ( what's in there now is V1 and V2
are 5751's and the V3 phase inverter is 12ax7). Speaker outs are
4 - 8 - 16 ohm so that covers any sort of cab. Has Line out but I don't
bother since when needed, I just mic up the cab.

Anyways - an amazing sounding amp with more than enough puunch and crunch
(and big fat cleans on the low input) to play anywhere. Even hooked into
a 1x12 cab this thing can get loud - and just keeps sounding better the more
you crank it up. It's a deceptive amp head - small size - huge sound
and it's as heavy (or heavier) than many 'full sized' heads.
It's easy to get this thing dialed in although you have to dedicate whether
you want to dial in on High or Low since there's no channel switching.

Ok well I am really impressed with this amp.
I got it for cheap (part of a trade) and I know you could
spend a lot more and get a lot less (with trade, etc it cost me around $325 US).

I took out the chassis and it seems well built (all the controls have
flying leads to them and someone already replaced the stock plastic jacks
with metal jacks). Looks like a turret board and leads out to controls.
tube mounts are on the chassis and not into board. I am not an amp tech
so I'm not certain whether it's tech approved construction but this amp
as heavily gigged before I got it and it's working fine so it should work
good since t's been 'road tested' already.

ok. well thought I would mention about this amp because it's a real
find for me that I did not expect to happen and am really happy the
deal went through and I have it now. I mean for $300 or so I don't
think you could anything near this good in current production, Guitar Center.. etc
for this price.

Grip

unread,
Jul 8, 2012, 9:11:45 PM7/8/12
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Migs are fantastic amps!

Bignose

unread,
Jul 9, 2012, 10:47:59 AM7/9/12
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I had one for awhile and liked it. Eventually I traded it for a two channel
something or other, but, probably should have kept the Sovtek. Good find!

Flasherly

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Jul 9, 2012, 3:03:03 PM7/9/12
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Could as easily be a quality to what a Chinese Pignose GV-series build
lacks. Hasn't any hi-low, but cleans up easonably well for a pair of
6L6s. Some characterize the mid-level pot as the overriding influence
to the tone stack. Fun, perhaps too might be tricking a Russian Mig
with Yellowjackets tube conversions for Class-A EL84 operation.
Somewhat lower volumes potentially within working the power stage
harder. (Real trick, though, is swinging the YJ for something under
$75 ... got mine on Ebay, though direct from facilities nearby Boeing
Industries. Always had a sweet tooth for THD stuff).

Lord Valve

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Jul 9, 2012, 4:12:38 PM7/9/12
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Flasherly wrote:
>Yellowjackets tube conversions for Class-A EL84 operation

Nope.

Lord Valve
Expert



Flasherly

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Jul 9, 2012, 6:34:04 PM7/9/12
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OK. You say so, boss. -just the simple messenger.

Attention: The item(s) you have purchased from Stompbox Music,
10141 THD ELECTRONICS YELLOW JACKETS TUBE CONVERTERS (Qty:1)
Stompbox Music
Shipping Department
in...@proguitarshop.com

Item name: NEW!!! 2 THD Yellow Jackets Tube
Converters
Item number: 73317379xx
Seller: proguitarshop OR United States)
End date: Jun-26-xx 06:43:58 PDT
PAYMENT DETAILS
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Sale price: US $64.95


I USE 6L6 (PIGNOSE) -and- EL84 (DUNCAN)
*note* PIGNOSE is cathode bias (per harmonycentral G40 user review)

What are Yellow Jacketsr?
Yellow Jacketsr Converters are a type of specialized adapters
which permit the use of EL84/6BQ5 power tubes in place of 6V6,
6L6, EL34, and 7591 types.

How do they work?
They give you simple Class-A operation from any amp.Yellow Jacketr
Converters not only rearrange the pin locations of the tubes, but
also provide the necessary current limiting on the screens and
cathode as well as blocking the amplifier's grid bias voltage,
while configuring the EL84 in a Class-A, Self-adjusiting
cathode-bias circuit. In other words, there are no adjustments to
make and no modifications necesary, you simply plug the Yellow
Jacketsr into the amp's output tube sockets, (in cathode-bias
amplifiers) screw the ground wires under one of the output tube
socket mounting screws, plug your EL84's into the Yellow
Jacketsr, turn on the amp and play.

Lord Valve

unread,
Jul 9, 2012, 6:46:35 PM7/9/12
to
Nope.

Lord Valve
Expert




Flasherly

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Jul 9, 2012, 7:45:03 PM7/9/12
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On Jul 9, 6:46 pm, Lord Valve <detri...@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>
> Nope.
>
> Lord Valve
> Expert

Right. Won't happen again, boss. (Take it from $35 a tube on two to
$2000+ on one to make righter.)

Class A is a term given to an amp that runs its tubes at full current
all the time, unlike most tube amps that alternate between running one
set of tubes and the other set, each for one half of the wave. The set
not in use is turned off by a positive swing of the grid voltage.
Single-ended output stages always operate in Class A. Most push-pull
amplifiers, including the venerated Vox AC-30, operate in Class AB
when overdriven, even if they are in Class A while clean. Class A
operation has its own unique tonal characteristics that set it apart
from other tube amp classes. Class A amps sound great at low volumes,
and even better as you turn them up. Thus, with the relatively low
wattage of the UniValve you can turn up the amplifier to take full
advantage of its stunning output distortion tone without deafening
anyone.

Lord Valve

unread,
Jul 9, 2012, 8:34:27 PM7/9/12
to
...

None of which has anything at all to do with whether or not
Yellow Jackets run in class A in that amp. They won't, and
unless you have a scope, a test load, and a signal generator,
you'll just have to take my fucking word for it.

Cut and paste some more advertising propaganda - it's amusing.

I'm out.

Lord Valve
Expert




Flasherly

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Jul 10, 2012, 1:10:23 AM7/10/12
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On it before that, which just told me they're optionally EL84s if not
6L6s. Class A, kind surprised I remembered. Nor so bad, amusing, as
interesting. Not sure where a British/Basman MIG's higher plate
voltages might spec if out of range for YJs. Nope, no bench gear, but
they're plenty mo' fun in a two-tube config, only not as ballsy as the
6L6s. Can't really shitcan 'em, boss, just for the copy, but I got
you.

It's that Guy again...

unread,
Jul 10, 2012, 7:46:50 AM7/10/12
to

Flasherly wrote:

>>Yellowjackets tube conversions for Class-A EL84 operation

LV replied:

>Nope.

Flasherly wrote:

>>OK. You say so, boss. -just the simple messenger.

>> They give you simple Class-A operation from any amp.Yellow Jacketr
>> Converters not only rearrange the pin locations of the tubes, but
>> also provide the necessary current limiting on the screens and
>>cathode as well as blocking the amplifier's grid bias voltage,
>> while configuring the EL84 in a Class-A, Self-adjusiting
>> cathode-bias circuit. In other words, there are no adjustments to
>> make and no modifications necesary, you simply plug the Yellow
>> Jacketsr into the amp's output tube sockets, (in cathode-bias
>> amplifiers) screw the ground wires under one of the output tube
>> socket mounting screws, plug your EL84's into the Yellow
>> Jacketsr, turn on the amp and play.

LV replied:

>Nope.

Sorry to burst ya bubble, Flasherly, but LV is right here.

Unless the power tranz can supply the needed current
that real class-A demands, the best your gonna get is
AB at a level that's CLOSER to the A point. 'A' *MUST*
supply full tilt all the time, not just when the signal
swings to that 1/2 of the tube set. I doubt big time that
the Mig, as neat as a amp as it was, can attempt that.

AND..how does the YJ know what amp you are plugging
them into, to adjust the c/bias correctly in the 1st place?

There are a couple of tricks to get closer to 'A', but
the YJs are NOT 'plug and play' Class-A in ANY amp..

Also, the size of said YJ devices can't hold cathode
resistors large enough to handle the heat generated
by REAL 'A" even if the iron could do it. Of course,
that isn't a problem since it isn't real 'A' anyway.

Also, there are other things that make a true "A" amp
that the YJ does not address. I've seen them work,
they do make their own sound, but Class-A..nope..

Good call, LV..


JJTj





"The best time to kick someone is when they are down and
the only place to kick them is below the belt.." <BtbH>

It's that Guy again...

unread,
Jul 10, 2012, 7:55:49 AM7/10/12
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On Mon, 9 Jul 2012 22:10:23 -0700 (PDT), Flasherly
<Flas...@live.com> wrote:

>> > Class A is a term given to an amp that runs its tubes at full current
>> > all the time, unlike most tube amps that alternate between running one
>> > set of tubes and the other set, each for one half of the wave. The set
>> > not in use is turned off by a positive swing of the grid voltage.
>> > Single-ended output stages always operate in Class A. Most push-pull
>> > amplifiers, including the venerated Vox AC-30, operate in Class AB
>> > when overdriven, even if they are in Class A while clean. Class A
>> > operation has its own unique tonal characteristics that set it apart
>> > from other tube amp classes. Class A amps sound great at low volumes,
>> > and even better as you turn them up.


All the above is true. The AC30 is rated at 30 (ish) IN class-a (it's
not, it's only really about 15 in 'A', then goes into AB) and ALL
AB amps will run 'A' to a point, then go into AB. SO you are
saying the YJs will just turn, say, a 50 watt AB amp into a 5 watt
'A' ? Sure, I can MAYBE see that, but the big ?? is why?

They are NOT "plug and play" class-a in ANY amp, sorry..


JJTj




Lord Valve

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Jul 10, 2012, 8:47:20 AM7/10/12
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OK, cool.

I never argue with how anyone hears things - if you like
it, you like it, and it ain't my place to say otherwise. But
the whole "Class A" schtick where Yellowjackets are
concerned is a bunch of horse-shit: I've scoped every
amp that's ever hit my bench with those installed, and
every damn one of 'em shows crossover notch distortion -
sometimes massively - and presence of a crossover
notch is de facto proof of non-class-A operation.

Lord Valve
Nerd


Flasherly

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Jul 10, 2012, 12:02:44 PM7/10/12
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On Jul 10, 7:55 am, It's that Guy again... <paidtodot...@cash.con>
wrote:
> On Mon, 9 Jul 2012 22:10:23 -0700 (PDT), Flasherly
>
> <Flashe...@live.com> wrote:
> >> > Class A is a term given to an amp that runs its tubes at full current
> >> > all the time, unlike most tube amps that alternate between running one
> >> > set of tubes and the other set, each for one half of the wave. The set
> >> > not in use is turned off by a positive swing of the grid voltage.
> >> > Single-ended output stages always operate in Class A. Most push-pull
> >> > amplifiers, including the venerated Vox AC-30, operate in Class AB
> >> > when overdriven, even if they are in Class A while clean. Class A
> >> > operation has its own unique tonal characteristics that set it apart
> >> > from other tube amp classes. Class A amps sound great at low volumes,
> >> > and even better as you turn them up.
>
> All the above is true. The AC30 is rated at 30 (ish) IN class-a (it's
> not, it's only really about 15 in 'A', then goes into AB) and ALL
> AB amps will run 'A' to a point, then go into AB. SO you are
> saying the YJs will just turn, say, a 50 watt AB amp into a 5 watt
> 'A' ? Sure, I can MAYBE see that, but the big ?? is why?

-- Practically -- it's nothing of the sort. Sure, there is _some_
drop in power for the YJ I have if taking out tubes from stock 6L6-
spec'd amps and replacing them EL84s. Maybe I could even order
special coffee beans for roasting, just prior for playing, which
extracted and drank will help sustain a perception the EL84s are
somehow sweeter sounding once driven harder. -Somewhat- of a
resulting lower power output reduction, however, is nowhere near 5-
watts (that's just THD's +AMP+ I like. Probably a $2000+, been around
for ages if the same as I'm thinking, their particular model amp
intended for substituting in just about any valve under the sun. My
"got'ca clause" for LordValve, since apples simply cannot either equal
oranges in $30 YellowJackets vs a Univalve, proper.) Yea, they're
louder than that with nothing especially discordant about however
they're doing it, just not as loud or ballsy as stock 6L6s. Bottom
line, take those few dual 6L6 setup amps, and if they're not too hot,
the YJs -are- one of the better $60 choices I've made among ways to
modify a guitar signal. Hell, I almost like dual valve
ElectroHarmonix BlackFinger as much;- yea, I already know it's only a
WallWart that EH's using for driving the fucking 12AX7 tube grid
arrays.

Flasherly

unread,
Jul 10, 2012, 1:03:27 PM7/10/12
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On Jul 10, 7:46 am, It's that Guy again... <paidtodot...@cash.con>
wrote:
>
> Also, there are other things that make a true "A" amp
> that the YJ does not address. I've seen them work,
> they do make their own sound, but Class-A..nope..

Closer, trickier, as you say, to Class A for their own sound.

That's good. Tasteful, the trick part. Sounds like my kind of a date:
'No rush to check under the hood, honey. Let's have a good time.'

Le...@nospam.com

unread,
Jul 10, 2012, 10:14:45 PM7/10/12
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Actually, a 6BQ5 only draws about 65ma in class A, not a big deal for an amp
normally using 2 6L6 tubes . I think the YJ's limit the plate voltage.

>AND..how does the YJ know what amp you are plugging
>them into, to adjust the c/bias correctly in the 1st place?

The tubes are self biased by cathode resistors.

>There are a couple of tricks to get closer to 'A', but
>the YJs are NOT 'plug and play' Class-A in ANY amp..
>
>Also, the size of said YJ devices can't hold cathode
>resistors large enough to handle the heat generated
>by REAL 'A" even if the iron could do it. Of course,
>that isn't a problem since it isn't real 'A' anyway.

Cathode bias voltage would probably be 7v, so 1 watt resistors would be OK, and
they aren't too big.

Now I'm not saying the amp runs class A with the YJ's, if Valve says it doesn't
- it doesn't.

If it did run class A, you could pull one tube with no change.

Bob

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Jul 11, 2012, 3:36:52 PM7/11/12
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On Tue, 10 Jul 2012 06:47:20 -0600, Lord Valve
<detr...@ix.netcom.com> wrote:

>the whole "Class A" schtick where Yellowjackets are
>concerned is a bunch of horse-shit: I've scoped every
>amp that's ever hit my bench with those installed, and
>every damn one of 'em shows crossover notch distortion -
>sometimes massively - and presence of a crossover
>notch is de facto proof of non-class-A operation.
>
>Lord Valve
>Nerd

Did they have crossover distortion even with very low-level signal
applied?

Lord Valve

unread,
Jul 11, 2012, 4:21:49 PM7/11/12
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Define "very low-level signal."

LV


Flasherly

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Jul 11, 2012, 4:40:09 PM7/11/12
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On Jul 10, 10:14 pm, L...@nospam.com wrote:
>
> If it did run class A, you could pull one tube with no change.

And if he didn't have an amp handy, then I could. I've got the
YellowJackets, a Bassman, and I've got a Marshall, only not not the
two combined into a pre-60, down-toned MIG50. Clones, actually, the
Marshall being a Peavey Windsor with higher-adjusted gain 4x6L6
variants, whereas the Pignose is a fairly regarded Bassman clone
(caveat: tad noisy for Chinese assembly and popular project amp for
righteous hands). Certain, though, I've read where not to dick with
the YJs and put them into "hot" amps. The Windsor, unlike a Valve
King, can run with the outer, or inner, 6L6s removed. But, as said,
it's a "'hot amp and I'm not chancing YJ conversions in that. Damn,
guy, why'd you have say that -- pull out ONE YJ for grins. You, of
course, should know that virtually no one on the internet will claim
to have made that distinction, and there's subsequently no way I can
back-test you, except by pulling one of the tubes and chance smoking
my Pignose amp. Presumably anyone with half a brain would know, apart
from theoretical applications, a $200 Pignose G40 isn't designed,
least assembled, or electrically engineered or for Class-A operation.
I got to hand it to you, though -- you do cut the chase to think
radically in between the closest point between distances.

Le...@nospam.com

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Jul 11, 2012, 7:35:03 PM7/11/12
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I'll have to look up the exact schemagic for the YJ's and see what they look
like wired into a typical "bassman" output... seems to me that the whole thing
would run AB but I shall see...

And I would never screw around modding a nice 6L6 amp into an El84 - mostly
because I have a few EL84 amps, both 4 watt class A and 18 watt class B. I had a
6L6 "clone" but a musician I know never returned it... its OK I have his old
Traynor... got to fix it though.

You can never have too many amps.

spligutherism

unread,
Jul 11, 2012, 8:31:06 PM7/11/12
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On Wed, 11 Jul 2012 19:35:03 -0400, Le...@nospam.com wrote:

>I'll have to look up the exact schemagic for the YJ's and see what they look
>like wired into a typical "bassman" output... seems to me that the whole thing
>would run AB but I shall see...

I've seen the schematics, and they try to do the job, and in
certain amps, they might get CLOSE, but they are NOT
"..plug and play.." Class-A. You just can't do that in real
life. And 1 watt resistors in cathode bias is a joke, 5wt
is a complete min, 10+ better. You cannot plug n play
bias output tubes without knowing the parts around
the stage, the OT imp, etc etc etc, and call it REAL
Class-A. The math involved with using separate res
and caps for each tube alone makes their concept a joke.

1 wt res are a 2 to one safety range..and they blow up....

It 'may' do 'A' up to x watts, then go into AB, like every PP
amp ever designed. So their wish to turn my 50 wt Bassman
into a 5 wt 'class-a' (ish) amp is just down right stupid...

>And I would never screw around modding a nice 6L6 amp into an El84 - mostly
>because I have a few EL84 amps, both 4 watt class A and 18 watt class B. I had a
>6L6 "clone" but a musician I know never returned it... its OK I have his old
>Traynor... got to fix it though.

Play with them in said EL84 amps, add a sep heater tranz, and
have fun, but otherwise, it's all fish & vinegar.. Unless ya like
the sound, then go for it..but don't kid yer self it's real 'A'...

>You can never have too many amps.

Last count, in da 'VAULT', I have over 100.

I won't mod 95% of them, and will soon be selling most of them..

In the old fart days (.com) I bought them all cheap, REAL cheap,
and many need tubes, and maybe a boink or two, but today's
amps will never be collected like that again. 2 much monkee biz.

JJTj



"Remember, once you have pulled the pin,
Mr. Hand Grenade is no longer your friend."




*> SENT FROM CELL PHONE DECK# OK734748276J1XS <*
*> NO REPLY MODE GIGANEWS M7LKHJRTZUWS-OBP9 <*






I said..Hey Hey baby
let me ride in yer car machine..
I said..Hey Hey baby
let me ride in yer car machine..
I said you got a good carburetor..
But hey, you running bad gasoline..

I said look it baby
you can't drive no more at night
you got a crack in ya cylinder head
..and a short is in ya lights

I said..Hey Hey baby
let me ride in yer car machine..
I said you got a good carburetor..
Hey, you running bad gasoline..

I said..face it baby..
you know it's time to go.
I won't write you no letter gal..
IF you drive real slow.

I said..Hey Hey baby
let me ride in yer car machine..
I said you got a good carburetor..
Hey, you running bad gasoline..

You know, I hate to see it, baby..
..that evening sun go down.
Ain't it awesome lonesome..
..yeah, you going around..

I said..Hey Hey baby
let me ride in yer car machine..
I said you got a good carburetor..
Hey, you running bad gasoline..

Les Cargill

unread,
Jul 11, 2012, 9:44:07 PM7/11/12
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Splig Utherism wrote:
>
> On Wed, 11 Jul 2012 19:35:03 -0400, Le...@nospam.com wrote:
<snip>
>
> It 'may' do 'A' up to x watts, then go into AB, like every PP
> amp ever designed. So their wish to turn my 50 wt Bassman
> into a 5 wt 'class-a' (ish) amp is just down right stupid...
>

Algorithm for turning a Bassman into a 5W amp:

(patent applied for)

1) Sell Bassman.
2) Buy Champ.


<snip>

--
Les Cargill

It's that Guy again...

unread,
Jul 11, 2012, 10:11:30 PM7/11/12
to
On Wed, 11 Jul 2012 20:44:07 -0500, Les Cargill
<lcarg...@comcast.com> wrote:

>Algorithm for turning a Bassman into a 5W amp:
>
>(patent applied for)
>
>1) Sell Bassman.
>2) Buy Champ.
>
>
><snip>
>
>--
>Les Cargill


..amen...


JJTj



*> SENT FROM CELL PHONE DECK# OK734748276J1XS <*
*> NO REPLY MODE GIGANEWS M7LKHRGHFUWS-OBP9 <*

Flasherly

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Jul 11, 2012, 10:56:15 PM7/11/12
to
On Jul 11, 7:35 pm, L...@nospam.com wrote:
>
> And I would never screw around modding a nice 6L6 amp into an El84 - mostly
> because I have a few EL84 amps, both 4 watt class A and 18 watt class B. I had a
> 6L6 "clone" but a musician I know never returned it... its OK I have his old
> Traynor... got to fix it though.

Have one 4xEl84, a Seymour Duncan, but it's not so nice. A lot of
push/pull pots, all custom fitted and soldered onto the chassis (no
nuts for threaded shafts). Needs the schematic for parts, a recap,
resistors, and biasing. The pots tend make it not really a popular
amp in shop circles, although its 10" speakers might adapt for trying
out in a 4x12 cab for a little less "bigger" sound when plugging in
4x6L6 amps. Imagine that 4-watt is sweet. All I've looked over are
owners of Chinese imported stereo gear, times when a Class A bug bites
me.

Bob

unread,
Jul 12, 2012, 3:41:37 AM7/12/12
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On Wed, 11 Jul 2012 14:21:49 -0600, Lord Valve
I'll rephrase: Does the Yellowjackets' crossover distortion occur at
all signal levels, or is this something that happens when they're
pushed harder?

Flasherly

unread,
Jul 12, 2012, 5:37:31 PM7/12/12
to
On Jul 11, 9:44 pm, Les Cargill <lcargil...@comcast.com> wrote:
> Splig Utherism wrote:
>
> > On Wed, 11 Jul 2012 19:35:03 -0400, L...@nospam.com wrote:
> <snip>
>
> > It 'may' do 'A' up to x watts, then go into AB, like every PP
> > amp ever designed. So their wish to turn my 50 wt Bassman
> > into a 5 wt 'class-a' (ish) amp is just down right stupid...
>
> Algorithm for turning a Bassman into a 5W amp:
>
> (patent applied for)
>
> 1) Sell Bassman.
> 2) Buy Champ.
>
> <snip>
>
> --
> Les Cargill

Champ 600 @5watts w/ 1 6V6.

Champ Vibro Champ XD @5watts w/ 1 6V6.

Champ Super X2 w/ @18watts 2 6V6.

First off they're modifying the 5watts for a subjective sense of
cleaner open sounds, perhaps less objective to a decent replacement
speaker, even should I tend doubt that.

Champ Super has the USB interface. Near(er) the same price, too, in a
head configuration unless 5watts were peculiarly an end goal. A DSP
common layering appears inserted between the tubes, although I'm not
sure to what extent USB software modification of the DSP effects is
permitted, if modeling then can be turned off.

6V6 vs 6L6: Less AB power of course, likely consequent to less bottom
end, although any 6V6 midrange transference then, as well high-end
responses, appears a regard by tube aficionados as largely given to
design application.

I doubt the Pignose YellowJacket-to-EL84 is so significant at volumes
when considering a value point over the Champ Super on the Fender
stage, even though I didn't offhand catch if and any advantageous
modifications.

What I did see when looking briefly at the Fender left me with a vague
impression of overriding DSP interoperability. But I also was not
looking more closely at the X2 for possibly negating aspects of
modernity or a CyberTwin inspired platform.

Le...@nospam.com

unread,
Jul 12, 2012, 10:25:44 PM7/12/12
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On Wed, 11 Jul 2012 20:31:06 -0400, Splig Utherism wrote:

>
>On Wed, 11 Jul 2012 19:35:03 -0400, Le...@nospam.com wrote:
>
>>I'll have to look up the exact schemagic for the YJ's and see what they look
>>like wired into a typical "bassman" output... seems to me that the whole thing
>>would run AB but I shall see...
>
>I've seen the schematics, and they try to do the job, and in
>certain amps, they might get CLOSE, but they are NOT
>"..plug and play.." Class-A. You just can't do that in real
>life. And 1 watt resistors in cathode bias is a joke, 5wt
>is a complete min, 10+ better. You cannot plug n play
>bias output tubes without knowing the parts around
>the stage, the OT imp, etc etc etc, and call it REAL
>Class-A. The math involved with using separate res
>and caps for each tube alone makes their concept a joke.
>
>1 wt res are a 2 to one safety range..and they blow up....

I'm just saying the spec of a 1 watt resistor is OK in a 1/2 watt circuit, but I
usually use fairly big resistors myself. Yes, they do get warm!

>It 'may' do 'A' up to x watts, then go into AB, like every PP
>amp ever designed. So their wish to turn my 50 wt Bassman
>into a 5 wt 'class-a' (ish) amp is just down right stupid...

Thats true... but people want to do the weirdest things!

>>And I would never screw around modding a nice 6L6 amp into an El84 - mostly
>>because I have a few EL84 amps, both 4 watt class A and 18 watt class B. I had a
>>6L6 "clone" but a musician I know never returned it... its OK I have his old
>>Traynor... got to fix it though.
>
>Play with them in said EL84 amps, add a sep heater tranz, and
>have fun, but otherwise, it's all fish & vinegar.. Unless ya like
>the sound, then go for it..but don't kid yer self it's real 'A'...
>
>>You can never have too many amps.
>
>Last count, in da 'VAULT', I have over 100.

You beat me! But I don't buy amps, I built 'em or trade 'em. (I've never bought
a new amp from a store in my life.)

Le...@nospam.com

unread,
Jul 12, 2012, 10:39:09 PM7/12/12
to
On Wed, 11 Jul 2012 19:56:15 -0700 (PDT), Flasherly <Flas...@live.com> wrote:

>On Jul 11, 7:35 pm, L...@nospam.com wrote:
>>
>> And I would never screw around modding a nice 6L6 amp into an El84 - mostly
>> because I have a few EL84 amps, both 4 watt class A and 18 watt class B. I had a
>> 6L6 "clone" but a musician I know never returned it... its OK I have his old
>> Traynor... got to fix it though.
>
>Have one 4xEl84, a Seymour Duncan, but it's not so nice. A lot of
>push/pull pots, all custom fitted and soldered onto the chassis (no
>nuts for threaded shafts). Needs the schematic for parts, a recap,
>resistors, and biasing. The pots tend make it not really a popular
>amp in shop circles, although its 10" speakers might adapt for trying
>out in a 4x12 cab for a little less "bigger" sound when plugging in
>4x6L6 amps.

I thought about a 4xEL84 but decided there was no valid reason to do one.

>Imagine that 4-watt is sweet. All I've looked over are
>owners of Chinese imported stereo gear, times when a Class A bug bites
>me.

I used to build and sell custom guitar amps about 10 years ago but things just
sort of petered out... I still have a couple of 4 watt EL84 prototypes here of
my own design - complete with an active midrange circuit that really works, and
an 18 watt high gain amp as well. I built them for studio use, no hum or noise
output. As far as I know, one is still in use in a studio up north.

I still have some "Tube 10" speakers as well, 2 are in one cab, but I'm thinking
of trying a 4x10" cab with them for the high gain. Got to build a nice Tolex'd
head box for the amp, it's in an old aluminimum rack chassis box.

Flasherly

unread,
Jul 12, 2012, 11:17:48 PM7/12/12
to
On Jul 12, 10:39 pm, L...@nospam.com wrote:
Aluminum sounds neat. Once getting used to heads, seems enough
unreal, unneeded heft. (As well could cut a 4x12 cab as easily in
half and plug them for duals or something.) I usually go into an amp
anyway and add a transformer for 5V PC fans and stuff. Could do a
shock protection spring-mounted amp board chassis with the aluminum,
at least rubber feet away from heat sources. That Pignose, I've two 5"
fans like wings mounted to wood strips directly beneath the backplate
and angled up against the backside of the two long YJ to EL84s. Guess
it takes awhile for them to get hotter if at all. Never play it
anyway less than 4 hours thru a big stack of speakers. It's got some
noise and is a wanabe doubler-upper upside a bass on the lower frets,
but get it right and it'll honk and sing above that. Guess some amps
play for you and others amps just have to be played.

Bob

unread,
Jul 13, 2012, 5:58:05 PM7/13/12
to
No answer. Was that still not clear enough?

Le...@nospam.com

unread,
Jul 13, 2012, 8:24:39 PM7/13/12
to
On Thu, 12 Jul 2012 20:17:48 -0700 (PDT), Flasherly <Flas...@live.com> wrote:

>>
>> I used to build and sell custom guitar amps about 10 years ago but things just
>> sort of petered out... I still have a couple of 4 watt EL84 prototypes here of
>> my own design - complete with an active midrange circuit that really works, and
>> an 18 watt high gain amp as well. I built them for studio use, no hum or noise
>> output. As far as I know, one is still in use in a studio up north.
>>
>> I still have some "Tube 10" speakers as well, 2 are in one cab, but I'm thinking
>> of trying a 4x10" cab with them for the high gain. Got to build a nice Tolex'd
>> head box for the amp, it's in an old aluminimum rack chassis box.
>
>Aluminum sounds neat. Once getting used to heads, seems enough
>unreal, unneeded heft. (As well could cut a 4x12 cab as easily in
>half and plug them for duals or something.) I usually go into an amp
>anyway and add a transformer for 5V PC fans and stuff. Could do a
>shock protection spring-mounted amp board chassis with the aluminum,
>at least rubber feet away from heat sources.

The combo amp prototypes I made had a multiple folded chassis so the tubes were
out the back of the amp behind screen, controls on top, hummy power stuff in the
bottom. No heat, hum or feedback vibration problems and real easy to change
tubes. The sheet metal company I dealt with said their machines couldn't bend
the chassis that way so I made my own press brake to do it myself.

>That Pignose, I've two 5"
>fans like wings mounted to wood strips directly beneath the backplate
>and angled up against the backside of the two long YJ to EL84s. Guess
>it takes awhile for them to get hotter if at all. Never play it
>anyway less than 4 hours thru a big stack of speakers. It's got some
>noise and is a wanabe doubler-upper upside a bass on the lower frets,
>but get it right and it'll honk and sing above that. Guess some amps
>play for you and others amps just have to be played.

I've put rectifiers and sometimes doubler circuits on the 6.3v filament winding
to run 12v PC fans. You can get them to run slower so they don't make too much
noise. If you have 2 fans you can run them in series and they go real slow but
still move air.

Know what would be kool? An amp built in to one of those aluminum tool cases,
the ones that look like square attache cases. They cost about $24 here, already
have a handle!

Le...@nospam.com

unread,
Jul 13, 2012, 8:54:06 PM7/13/12
to
I guess he's sleeping..

My take on all this...

In a typical PP 6L6 amp, the cathodes are grounded, the control grids are fed
negative bias voltage, and the plates are held positive through the output
tranny. Unlike transistors, tubes are only of 1 polarity, so both work on a
positive going signal. (against the neg. bias) So to get a whole waveform, the
driver has to feed the grids of each tube half of the signal, out of phase
between them. The transformer re-combines this signal. Some amps use 1 triode
for this, some use 2, but the result is the same.

Now when the YJs are installed, they intercept the ground lines with cathode
resistors to bias the EL84s, and probably have some kind of plate resistors to
keep the voltage within spec. I'm guessing the grid bias is intercepted by a
capacitor so the tube can run with it's own self bias.

So far, that would indicate a class A circuit, since self-bias does that
(somewhat) but we still have the problem of the split phase driver - each
output tube only gets half the waveform, so can only reproduce a class B type
signal. (even though biased for A)

What the hell class this is, is open to interpretation!

So the crossover notch level could be anything, and would depend on the
particular amp.

Lord Valve

unread,
Jul 13, 2012, 11:37:49 PM7/13/12
to
I guess you should kiss my big fat ass, eh?

I run a retail store. It's Friday. You figure it out, smart guy.

>
> My take on all this...
>
> In a typical PP 6L6 amp, the cathodes are grounded, the control grids are fed
> negative bias voltage, and the plates are held positive through the output
> tranny. Unlike transistors, tubes are only of 1 polarity, so both work on a
> positive going signal. (against the neg. bias) So to get a whole waveform, the
> driver has to feed the grids of each tube half of the signal, out of phase
> between them. The transformer re-combines this signal. Some amps use 1 triode
> for this, some use 2, but the result is the same.
>
> Now when the YJs are installed, they intercept the ground lines with cathode
> resistors to bias the EL84s, and probably have some kind of plate resistors to
> keep the voltage within spec. I'm guessing the grid bias is intercepted by a
> capacitor so the tube can run with it's own self bias.
>
> So far, that would indicate a class A circuit, since self-bias does that
> (somewhat) but we still have the problem of the split phase driver - each
> output tube only gets half the waveform, so can only reproduce a class B type
> signal. (even though biased for A)
>
> What the hell class this is, is open to interpretation!
>
> So the crossover notch level could be anything, and would depend on the
> particular amp.

I scoped a shitload of 'em. They were all notchy. *All*.

More drive = more notch. Even when the signal was in
the weeds, still notchy.

Lord Valve
Expert




Flasherly

unread,
Jul 14, 2012, 11:45:45 AM7/14/12
to
On Jul 13, 11:37 pm, Lord Valve <detri...@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>
> I scoped a shitload of 'em. They were all notchy. *All*.
>
> More drive = more notch. Even when the signal was in
> the weeds, still notchy.

Might be a good job for my Behringer UCP, run a tone signal generator
out from the computer, thru a mixer and into the amp for spectral
analysis routed via the mic-IO on the Behringer for its display [IF]
to pickup outside notch harmonics.

All excepting two things- a) too many possible things going on between
mic types I do have for analysis, any of which, at best, I'm spotty
with (gear+pro_ceedures, and importantly, b) might one then think to
ask oneself, does that Chinese assembled PCB amp really, flatout
deserve the Behringer. . . (methinks, noway Jose).

http://www.musiciansfriend.com/pro-audio/behringer-deq2496-ultra-curve-pro-mastering-processor

boardjunkie1

unread,
Jul 14, 2012, 12:23:29 PM7/14/12
to
On Jul 8, 2:14 pm, Squier <squ...@strats.net> wrote:
> Holy smokes!  This is a killer amp - small size but heavy little thing.
> Huge transformers in here (as big as or maybe bigger than the old
> Mesa/Boogie Mark I, II, III series).  Translates into a huge sound
> with as much thump (I mean clear, clean thump bottom end) as you
> would ever need.  Nice mids and just a smooth but present top end.
>
>

Man....I could make a fire breather outta that. The 2 input setup has
a triode section for each one, so there's a 3rd gain stage just
waiting to be configured.

It's that Guy again...

unread,
Jul 14, 2012, 3:10:40 PM7/14/12
to
On Fri, 13 Jul 2012 20:54:06 -0400, Le...@nospam.com wrote:

>What the hell class this is, is open to interpretation!

>So the crossover notch level could be anything, and would depend on the
>particular amp.

Do the same thing in a Marshall Major, and then in a, say,
Earth 200. Same tubes, same power, etc. NOT the same
results. C/O notch is the least of ya problems. It's just
the old "Boston Strangler/Power Soak" rewind. Repair
places made $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ fixing stuff
that get wrong'd. EU in Boston bought me a new car from
all the repairs their 'Boston Strangler' caused. Thanx.

Really..they are long gone..so is the car..but EU..thanx....

Ya want a 5 wt 'A' amp, ya buy one. Don't try to make
sleet snow. Both get far too dirty in the long run.

JJTj



*> SENT FROM CELL PHONE DECK# OK734748276J1XS <*
*> NO REPLY MODE GIGANEWS M7LKHRGHFUWS-OBP9 <*

JJTj

unread,
Jul 14, 2012, 3:21:54 PM7/14/12
to
Duh..which is why 'A' is rated at a certain level..
above that, you can get whatever the said circuit
with all it's bells/whistles farts out. This is why,
boyz & girlz, simple is best. The more ya involve,
the more that, even once you reach ya j/o level
of specs, can go apeshit & cause ya amp, to do
things like, well..notch..and oh, so much more..

Some times, ya just got-ta go "..ow.."

JJTj



LV, I need to email you next week on another matter,
say Wed or so. No big deal. Keep lamps trim'd & burning..


*> SENT FROM CELL PHONE DECK# OK7974635576J1XS <*
*> NO REPLY MODE GIGANEWS M7LVNSRGHFUWS-OBP9 <*





I'm so tired of working every day...
Now the weekend's come I'm gonna throw ALL my troubles away
If you've got the cab fare, m'lady, you'll do alright.
I want to see the bright lights tonight

Meet me at the station now, n don't be late
I need to spend some money and it just won't wait
Take me to the dance and hold me tight
I want to see the bright lights tonight

There's crazy people running all over town
There's a silver band just marching up and down
And the big boys are all spoiling for a fight
I want to see the bright lights tonight

Meet me at the station don't be late
I need to spend some money and it just won't wait
Take me to the dance and hold me tight
I want to see the bright lights tonight

A couple of drunken nights rolling on the floor
Is just the kind of mess I'm looking for.
I'm gonna dream 'till Monday comes in sight
I want to see the bright lights tonight

Meet me at the station now, and don't be late !!!!!
I need to spend some money and it just won't wait
Take me to the dance and hold me tight
I want to see the bright lights tonight

Take me to the dance and hold me tight
I want to see the bright lights tonight

Bob

unread,
Jul 14, 2012, 4:33:24 PM7/14/12
to
On Fri, 13 Jul 2012 21:37:49 -0600, Lord Valve
<detr...@ix.netcom.com> wrote:

>Le...@nospam.com wrote:

>>>>Bob wrote:
>> >>I'll rephrase: Does the Yellowjackets' crossover distortion occur at
>> >>all signal levels, or is this something that happens when they're
>> >>pushed harder?
>> >
>> >No answer. Was that still not clear enough?
>>
>> I guess he's sleeping..
>
>I guess you should kiss my big fat ass, eh?

Now now, be nice.

>> Leon wrote:
>> So the crossover notch level could be anything, and would depend on the
>> particular amp.

>I scoped a shitload of 'em. They were all notchy. *All*.
>
>More drive = more notch.

What's that tell ya? How are you measuring crossover distortion?

jh

unread,
Jul 14, 2012, 7:46:53 PM7/14/12
to
Scope?

Lord Valve

unread,
Jul 14, 2012, 10:39:09 PM7/14/12
to
Bob wrote:

> On Fri, 13 Jul 2012 21:37:49 -0600, Lord Valve
> <detr...@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>
> >Le...@nospam.com wrote:
>
> >>>>Bob wrote:
> >> >>I'll rephrase: Does the Yellowjackets' crossover distortion occur at
> >> >>all signal levels, or is this something that happens when they're
> >> >>pushed harder?
> >> >
> >> >No answer. Was that still not clear enough?
> >>
> >> I guess he's sleeping..
> >
> >I guess you should kiss my big fat ass, eh?
>
> Now now, be nice.

Go lick a hospital mop. Fuck you with a rake.

> > Leon wrote:
> >> So the crossover notch level could be anything, and would depend on the
> >> particular amp.
>
> >I scoped a shitload of 'em. They were all notchy. *All*.
> >
> >More drive = more notch.
>
> What's that tell ya?

Um...shit floats? Are you serious? Fuckin' retard....

> How are you measuring crossover distortion?

If I know how to swim, do I gotta measure how deep the fuckin' pool is?

If you can see it on the scope, it's *there*. Who gives a shit
how much there is...it sounds like ass.

Clang! Honk! Tweet!

I'm out...


Lord Valve
Expert



Bob

unread,
Jul 15, 2012, 3:48:54 AM7/15/12
to
On Sat, 14 Jul 2012 20:39:09 -0600, Lord Valve
<detr...@ix.netcom.com> wrote:

>Bob wrote:
>
>> On Fri, 13 Jul 2012 21:37:49 -0600, Lord Valve
>> <detr...@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>>
>> >Le...@nospam.com wrote:
>>
>> >>>>Bob wrote:
>> >> >>I'll rephrase: Does the Yellowjackets' crossover distortion occur at
>> >> >>all signal levels, or is this something that happens when they're
>> >> >>pushed harder?
>> >> >
>> >> >No answer. Was that still not clear enough?
>> >>
>> >> I guess he's sleeping..
>> >
>> >I guess you should kiss my big fat ass, eh?
>>
>> Now now, be nice.
>
>Go lick a hospital mop. Fuck you with a rake.

Now now, be nice.

>> > Leon wrote:
>> >> So the crossover notch level could be anything, and would depend on the
>> >> particular amp.
>>
>> >I scoped a shitload of 'em. They were all notchy. *All*.
>> >
>> >More drive = more notch.
>>
>> What's that tell ya?
>
>Um...shit floats? Are you serious? Fuckin' retard....

You don't even understand why I asked the question?

If "more drive = more notch", as you say, then obviously that points
to bias shift. How does bias shift usually happen? Excessive drive on
output tube grids will cause charge buildup on the coupling caps. That
discharges only via grid resistors. Until then, an artificially low
bias voltage will cause notch distortion.

And that is why you might see notch distortion in even a class A amp
as the drive voltage is increased. Hence "more drive = more notch."
Even a single-ended triode in a preamp will choke if you push the grid
too hard.

I'm not saying that Yellowjackets run in class A. They don't. I'm
saying that you're not only a frothing rabid dog as far as dealing
with people--you're clueless when it comes to in-depth electronics
knowledge. Apparently they finally figured that out on some other
groups where you've embarrassed yourself in many technical threads.
But there are probably a few here who still think you know what you're
talking about.

>> How are you measuring crossover distortion?
>
>If I know how to swim, do I gotta measure how deep the fuckin' pool is?

Better be sure you know how to swim first. Here's why I asked: If you
had made a mistake on measurement and the notch had actually stayed
consistent, then that would have pointed to a more static condition.

>If you can see it on the scope, it's *there*. Who gives a shit
>how much there is...it sounds like ass.
>
>Clang! Honk! Tweet!
>
>I'm out...

That's your best move.

>Lord Valve
>Expert

Hardly.

Bob

unread,
Jul 15, 2012, 4:10:34 AM7/15/12
to
I was curious about the accuracy of his measurement and his insistence
that the amount of crossover notch increased with higher signal.

BTW, I've seen two unofficial schematics for Yellowjackets. Both
indicate use of a 360 ohm cathode resistor, which would be the
equivalent of a 180 ohm if it were shared in push-pull. That certainly
would not run in class A, but many other guitar amps run at comparable
bias, or even colder.

RichL

unread,
Jul 15, 2012, 8:52:10 AM7/15/12
to
"Bob" <B...@znospam.com> wrote in message
news:srr4089kla4j0d2rj...@4ax.com...

> I'm not saying that Yellowjackets run in class A. They don't. I'm
> saying that you're not only a frothing rabid dog as far as dealing
> with people--you're clueless when it comes to in-depth electronics
> knowledge. Apparently they finally figured that out on some other
> groups where you've embarrassed yourself in many technical threads.

Aye --

He doesn't even bother posting any more to the other group in which he
formerly was the most notorious -- and technically misleading.

I do give the guy credit for establishing a successful business as a tube
salesman and amp tech. But "expert"? Please.

Lord Valve

unread,
Jul 15, 2012, 9:04:22 AM7/15/12
to
Go fuck your mother.

>
>
> If "more drive = more notch", as you say, then obviously that points
> to bias shift. How does bias shift usually happen? Excessive drive on
> output tube grids will cause charge buildup on the coupling caps. That
> discharges only via grid resistors. Until then, an artificially low
> bias voltage will cause notch distortion.
>
> And that is why you might see notch distortion in even a class A amp
> as the drive voltage is increased. Hence "more drive = more notch."
> Even a single-ended triode in a preamp will choke if you push the grid
> too hard.
>
> I'm not saying that Yellowjackets run in class A. They don't. I'm
> saying that you're not only a frothing rabid dog as far as dealing
> with people--you're clueless when it comes to in-depth electronics
> knowledge. Apparently they finally figured that out on some other
> groups where you've embarrassed yourself in many technical threads.
> But there are probably a few here who still think you know what you're
> talking about.
>
> >> How are you measuring crossover distortion?
> >
> >If I know how to swim, do I gotta measure how deep the fuckin' pool is?
>
> Better be sure you know how to swim first. Here's why I asked: If you
> had made a mistake on measurement and the notch had actually stayed
> consistent, then that would have pointed to a more static condition.

Go fuck your mother.

>
>
> >If you can see it on the scope, it's *there*. Who gives a shit
> >how much there is...it sounds like ass.
> >
> >Clang! Honk! Tweet!
> >
> >I'm out...
>
> That's your best move.

Go fuck your mother.

>
>
> >Lord Valve
> >Expert
>
> Hardly.

See above.


Lord Valve

unread,
Jul 15, 2012, 9:05:19 AM7/15/12
to
Go fuck your mother.


White Spirit

unread,
Jul 16, 2012, 6:16:56 AM7/16/12
to
On Jul 15, 2:05 pm, Lord Valve <detri...@ix.netcom.com> wrote:

> RichL wrote:

> > He doesn't even bother posting any more to the other group in which he
> > formerly was the most notorious -- and technically misleading.

> > I do give the guy credit for establishing a successful business as a tube
> > salesman and amp tech.  But "expert"?  Please.

> Go fuck your mother.

Lardy hasn't been bitch-slapped as badly as this in a long time. No
wonder he's so sore.

Lord Valve

unread,
Jul 16, 2012, 9:59:14 AM7/16/12
to
Go fuck your mother.

Wait - does slime mold have mothers?
Never mind.


Elbis Gazunga

unread,
Jul 16, 2012, 10:16:20 AM7/16/12
to
On Sun, 15 Jul 2012 08:52:10 -0400, "RichL" <rple...@yahoo.com>
wrote:

>He doesn't even bother posting any more to the other group in which he
>formerly was the most notorious -- and technically misleading.

OH PL-EA-SEEE... That 'other group' has become a political joke,
where seldom is heard, a amp-li-fied word. All ya get is the porn
pimp and his puppies, or the other side that is just as bad, or
people headed again to court. Don't cop out and say LV 'left'
that group, amp wise. *M*A*N*Y* people left too. It's become
alt.politics.puke. Go there and see. Nice try, no replay 4 U..

>I do give the guy credit for establishing a successful business as a tube
>salesman and amp tech. But "expert"? Please.

Hold..you just say you give him credit for being a success, but
not a expert? Hey, LV & I don't agree on a lot of things, even
amp wise, but I do know, he does know his shit, and doesn't need
anyone to defend him from posts like your's. It's like when idiots
whine about my posts from my past. Ya can't change it, and I
don't care if ya believe them/read them/etc or not, but they are
true history. LV's "..successful business.." speaks for it's self.

And when people whine and bitch about such things, the only
response is either to explain it or tell them to fuck off, and after
explaining it once or twice, the latter sums it all up real quickly.

JJTj



"The best time to kick someone is when they are down and
the only place to kick them is below the belt.." <BtbH>

RS

unread,
Jul 17, 2012, 2:58:52 AM7/17/12
to
On Mon, 16 Jul 2012 10:16:20 -0400, Elbis Gazunga <Caspair.coip>
wrote:

>On Sun, 15 Jul 2012 08:52:10 -0400, "RichL" <rple...@yahoo.com>
>wrote:
>
>>He doesn't even bother posting any more to the other group in which he
>>formerly was the most notorious -- and technically misleading.
>
>OH PL-EA-SEEE... That 'other group' has become a political joke,
>where seldom is heard, a amp-li-fied word.

Lest you get off on another hypocritical-sounding tangent, consider:
Who was the biggest source of political crap on aga? I was around to
see that group turn ugly over the past 15 years. Guess who was at the
center of it? (Hint: "Fuck your mother")

>Hold..you just say you give him credit for being a success, but
>not a expert? Hey, LV & I don't agree on a lot of things, even
>amp wise, but I do know, he does know his shit,

He's a hack. He has proved that time and again, including this thread.
I can post a lot of links to others if you want. There are some
amazingly humorous blunders among them. In one recent exchange, he
failed to grasp how a bias circuit worked (consider the implications!)
It's only a couple friggin resistors, so how do you possibly screw
that up?

> and doesn't need anyone to defend him from posts like your's.

Except for you, of course. Every friggin time he's criticized.

You know, I've been trying to respect you and leave you alone, but
when you defend someone who has been bleating "Fuck your mother" over
and over, you're asking for an appropriate response. Here's reality:

Your pal, the self-named "Lord Valve" is a pretentious bully who has
made his rep by picking on people who haven't studied electronics.
When faced with someone who actually knows the stuff, he starts
blurting insults and runs away with no attempt to justify or explain
his mistakes.

Bottom line: He's an obnoxious ass who would fail a high school
electronics test. Easily proven, but it's common knowledge at this
point. Your defense of this stuff is ridiculous.

BTW, you were wrong about a high-power 6L6/EL34 amp not being able to
drive a couple little EL84's in class A. We can take that up instead
if you want.

Elbis Gazunga

unread,
Jul 17, 2012, 9:07:44 AM7/17/12
to
On Tue, 17 Jul 2012 02:58:52 -0400, RS <R...@nospam.com> wrote:

>On Mon, 16 Jul 2012 10:16:20 -0400, Elbis Gazunga <Caspair.coip>
>wrote:

>Lest you get off on another hypocritical-sounding tangent, consider:

Hold on, let me inflate my shoes..

>Who was the biggest source of political crap on aga? I was around to
>see that group turn ugly over the past 15 years. Guess who was at the
>center of it? (Hint: "Fuck your mother")

..and who is there now, the wife beating porn pimp, & puppies,
who have little if any interest in amps, and we both know it. They
post countless threads that have nothing to do with amps, and
IF anyone else tries otherwise, they are drown'ed out..

..of course, that is ALL LV's fault....

>He's a hack. He has proved that time and again, including this thread.

IYHO. Not bad for a "..successful business.." (your words)...

>> and doesn't need anyone to defend him from posts like your's.

>Except for you, of course. Every friggin time he's criticized.

I can't have a opinion? Who died and rose YOU from the dead?

And no, LV & I differ in many areas, both amp wise and other.

I don't defend his comments (FYM), we don't gang up and post
100's of posts against the 'other side'. I speak the truth, he IS
a known expert in the field, I know this from others who deal
with him on a professional level (seldom seen here) who do not
read Usenet. Don't believe that, SIUYA&FTTM. My treat.

Folks like YOU just don't like that I won't join in
the circle jerk off that happens whenever he posts,
no matter what it is. Play ya own rain deer games..

>You know, I've been trying to respect you and leave you alone,

Well thanx, believe it or not, I have respect for you, but am I
supposed to act like you want me to so you will, and I quote,
"..leave (me) alone.."..? Do you REALLY think I give a shit?

>...but
>when you defend someone who has been bleating "Fuck your mother" over
>and over, you're asking for an appropriate response. Here's reality:

..wow..this ought to be good...

>Your pal, the self-named "Lord Valve" is a pretentious bully who has
>made his rep by picking on people who haven't studied electronics.

..I was right..you have issues that need looking after...

>When faced with someone who actually knows the stuff, he starts
>blurting insults and runs away with no attempt to justify or explain
>his mistakes.

ie: you? Yup, you know ya math/electronics, no sheit. I'll give
ya that. What you MAY be missing, or lacking at a pro level, is
dealing with AMPS on a R&R level, where MATH sometimes takes
a back seat to MoJo. That is something I learned EARLY in this
biz, and what LV must of too, because it matters as much when said
products were designed, then lived a R&R life, then aged, then
hit MY bench to get back to where they once belonged.

>Bottom line: He's an obnoxious ass who would fail a high school
>electronics test. Easily proven, but it's common knowledge at this
>point. Your defense of this stuff is ridiculous.

Yeah, well you keep dreaming your widdle dreamy dreams, if it helps
the circle jerk happen faster. I have amps to fix, and I'd guess LV
does to. YA know, for players..who PAY for said services...

>BTW, you were wrong about a high-power 6L6/EL34 amp not being able to
>drive a couple little EL84's in class A. We can take that up instead
>if you want.

And you need to prove ya self right.......let's be blunt:

AS I SAID: (are YOUR shoes inflated...good..) :'>

Yup, you can change a 50 wt Bassman into a lame sounding
5 watt sort of 'class-A' sorry excuse of a amp by JUST plugging
those jokes in if ya want. Sure, it will run 'A' to a point. But the
OT is wrong, the NFB needs tweek, and the parts in the jokes
are too weak to do the job as a plug and play in the 1st place.

AFTER said wattage (about 5-8 watts if lucky) it will do one/all
of the following things: (a) overheat and crap out (b) notch
out and sound like shit as it TRIES to go into AB(ish) or (c)
give the player the sound they think they can't get from
a Champ without risking ruining their Bassman. PUKE..

1 wt cathode resistors in a 'A' amp blow up. You can
'math' it out all ya want, but in REAL LIFE they overheat,
even in free air moving areas, forget some enclosed base.

The PT will supply current, and that will cause them to overheat,
and if you think the OT pri value will be ok for 6L6/EL34s and
EL84s from a plug and play stand point, you are fucking nuts.




JJTj

Lord Valve

unread,
Jul 17, 2012, 9:17:02 AM7/17/12
to
Another anonymous fucktard whined:

<smack>

Are you still here? I thought I told you to go fuck your
mother. Start humpin'! And don't forget to wrap your
weaner, son - never know where Mom's been, if you
catch my drift.

DO have a Real Nice Day, mmmkay?


Lord Valve
Expert (ESAD if you don't like it...)

RS

unread,
Jul 17, 2012, 3:43:59 PM7/17/12
to
On Tue, 17 Jul 2012 07:17:02 -0600, Lord Valve
<detr...@ix.netcom.com> wrote:

>... go fuck your mother. [etc]

That's nice. Hard to believe that you're a 70 year old man. I use the
term loosely.

>Lord Valve
>Expert (ESAD if you don't like it...)

Anyone can call themselves "Expert." Let's see about that...

-53v
|
/
/ 1.5k
/
|
/ 25k trimpot
/<------- Output range = ???
/
|
/
/ 100k
/
|
---
- (gnd)

What's the effective output voltage range of this circuit?
Extra points: What are the required wattage ratings of the resistors?

Three resistors. This is high school level stuff. There are people
here who can do this easily, but I'm betting you can't. Let's see if
you got any chops whatsoever.

Lord Valve

unread,
Jul 17, 2012, 4:30:42 PM7/17/12
to
Another anonymous private in the Legion of Lord Valve's Fart-Catchers
poasted a pop quiz:

<smack>

Oh, FUCK, I laughed so hard I hurt myself. Shit!

Mom's waitin', junior. Stick your little thing into
her cesspool of a twat and stir it around a bit,
there's a good lad. You know she loves it. And
so do you!

Lord Valve
Expert (suffer!)

RS

unread,
Jul 18, 2012, 1:47:11 AM7/18/12
to
On Tue, 17 Jul 2012 09:07:44 -0400, Elbis Gazunga <Caspair.coip>
wrote:
>..of course, that is ALL LV's fault....
>I don't defend his comments (FYM),

Ahem. How did you get to this spot in the conversation?

>>Your pal, the self-named "Lord Valve" is a pretentious bully who has
>>made his rep by picking on people who haven't studied electronics.
>
>..I was right..you have issues that need looking after...

Did you even read this thread?! He jumped in again trying to bully
someone who hasn't had much experience with electronics. That's his
thing. And like all schoolyard bullies, he yells insults and runs away
when anyone stands up to him.

>IYHO. Not bad for a "..successful business.." (your words)...

Not my words at all. Here are my words: The self-annointed "Lord
Valve" is an incompetent hack who can't back up his boasting. I've
offered to debate him on musical electronics or software, but he
always yells a few obscenities and runs away. Did you see anything
different this time?

>Yup, you know ya math/electronics, no sheit. I'll give
>ya that. What you MAY be missing, or lacking at a pro level, is
>dealing with AMPS on a R&R level, where MATH sometimes takes
>a back seat to MoJo.

WTF? We've already been through this. I've designed lots of
instruments, FX, and studio gear, and worked for lots of rock and jazz
musicians. I don't find it necessary to state that constantly, or to
crown myself with an extravagant moniker, or pick on those who don't
know tech stuff. I do what I love. No big deal beyond that.

I also don't subscribe to 'rock and roll mojo' as an excuse to be
ignorant of solid engineering. There is nothing mystical here.
It all boils down to physics and electronic theory. If you want to be
good at it, you study, and that includes math. Otherwise you'll make
mistakes like poor ol' Valve did on the Fender bias circuit that I
just posted (that's the circuit that he screwed up in one of his last
aga posts).

>That is something I learned EARLY in this
>biz, and what LV must of too, because it matters as much when said
>products were designed, then lived a R&R life,

Geez... glorious stories about Roger Daltry are not going to help you
to understand how an amp reacts. Buy all the old books on vacuum
tubes. Work out the math--there's a lot of it. Run some computer
simulations. Figure out how all that relates to sound. There's yer
'mojo.'

>>BTW, you were wrong about a high-power 6L6/EL34 amp not being able to
>>drive a couple little EL84's in class A. We can take that up instead
>>if you want.
>
>And you need to prove ya self right......
>
>Yup, you can change a 50 wt Bassman into a lame sounding
>5 watt sort of 'class-A' sorry excuse of a amp by JUST plugging
>those jokes in if ya want.
[snip a bunch of stuff about Yellowjacket converters]

I'm not talking about Yellowjackets. You said there wasn't enough
power available to run those in class A. You know that's incorrect,
right?

>1 wt cathode resistors in a 'A' amp blow up. You can
>'math' it out all ya want, but in REAL LIFE they overheat,
>even in free air moving areas, forget some enclosed base.

Again, what are you talking about? 'Math' doesn't cause anyone to
underspec a component. Quite the contrary. You run calculations or a
computer simulations to find out what the real world dissipation is
and go from there. That's how you do things in aerospace projects,
it's how you do things in critical medical equipment, and it's how you
keep amps from blowing up. None of this operates any differently just
because "it's rock n rock, man..." unless smoke is part of the glory.

BTW, you've messed up quite a few wattage calculations in your posts
on aga, so you may want to follow up on that. Valve failed to answer
the bias circuit voltage divider question I just posted. Have a crack
at it. If you miss, I'll be glad to explain how that works.

RS

unread,
Jul 18, 2012, 2:06:17 AM7/18/12
to
On Tue, 17 Jul 2012 14:30:42 -0600, Lord Valve
<detr...@ix.netcom.com> wrote:

>Another anonymous private in the Legion of Lord Valve's Fart-Catchers
>poasted a pop quiz:
>
><smack>
>
>Oh, FUCK, I laughed so hard I hurt myself. Shit!

Let's see if you still think it's funny: That was no pop quiz. It was
the bias circuit that you commented on in an aga post. You already got
that wrong in about 3 or 4 different ways in the aga post,
recommending mods to the circuit without understanding what they did
or how they affected the output voltage. And of course you mistook
voltage transfer for power transfer once again. An old standard. :-)

Still funny? Well, I thought so.

>Mom's waitin', junior. Stick your little thing into
>her cesspool of a twat and stir it around a bit,
>there's a good lad. You know she loves it. And
>so do you!
>
>Lord Valve
>Expert (suffer!)

You make it so obvious when you've been beaten. You might consider
quietly sneaking out of town instead of broadcasting it.

BTW, did you also enjoy your music theory lesson on r.m.m.g.jazz?
Imagine the mighty in-demand session player not understanding
suspended chords. Did that merit a few "Fuck your mothers?"

White Spirit

unread,
Jul 18, 2012, 2:10:51 AM7/18/12
to
On 17/07/12 07:58, RS wrote:

> Your pal, the self-named "Lord Valve" is a pretentious bully who has
> made his rep by picking on people who haven't studied electronics.
> When faced with someone who actually knows the stuff, he starts
> blurting insults and runs away with no attempt to justify or explain
> his mistakes.

The hastily-pulled YouTube vid he put up to prove his 'expertise' was
sublime. I have never seen a video removed so quickly, but that's what
happens when someone like Lardy is faced with real expertise.

I know, I know - 'Fuck my mother!'



Lord Valve

unread,
Jul 18, 2012, 9:00:01 AM7/18/12
to
Another anonymous private in the Legion of Lord Valve's Fart-Catchers wrote
it all down in a tear-stained letter:

<smack>

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xvDCa1NJPz0

White Spirit

unread,
Jul 18, 2012, 9:53:04 AM7/18/12
to
I have never seen such a sore loser as you.

At least, not above the age of three.



thumper

unread,
Aug 9, 2012, 11:53:26 PM8/9/12
to
On 7/14/2012 8:45 AM, Flasherly wrote:

> ask oneself, does that Chinese assembled PCB amp really, flatout
> deserve the Behringer. . . (methinks, noway Jose).
> http://www.musiciansfriend.com/pro-audio/behringer-deq2496-ultra-curve-pro-mastering-processor

You think that *doesn't* have Chinese assembled PCB's?

jphon...@gmail.com

unread,
Sep 16, 2018, 12:25:00 AM9/16/18
to
I know this an old post. But i have a mig 60 amp, put yellow jackets in it because is was sooo loud.
Anyway, it has developed and intermittent noise, the noise not loud, but like a burst of random distored noise every 10 15 seconds.
I am stumped on how fix this, replaced the tubes, tried different tubes. Could it be one of the yellow jackets is bad? or maybe filter cap is dried up?

Flasherly

unread,
Sep 16, 2018, 10:53:13 AM9/16/18
to
No problems with mine and they're old. THD Yellow Jackets for EL34 or
6L6 type amps for use of EL84 substitutes. Same thing you should
have, except the amp I use the Yellowjackets on is 40-watt 6L6 rated,
cathode bias based. You can change out to cheap 6L6s but may want to
check your amp for substitutes. Sovtek (owned by Electro Harmonix and
running NYC pedal production) was factory equipped with EL34s during
Russia production. Prod around for cold soldering while it's open. I
don't know if the MIG-60 is fixed bias and a needed bias procedure is
applicable. As always -- it's only electricity if you've your fingers
in it - matching balls of amazing blue lightning, eyeballs or
otherwize.


LISTING DETAILS
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Item name: NEW!!! 2 THD Yellow Jackets Tube
Converters
OR United States)
End date: Jun-26-05 06:43:58 PDT
----------------------------------------------------------------
PAYMENT DETAILS
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Sale price: US $64.95

Lord Valve

unread,
Sep 16, 2018, 12:02:28 PM9/16/18
to
Hey, no-blower - your intentions are transparent. You
don't know your ass from a hole in the fucking ground
and you're hoping to dredge another clueless asshole
up out of the usenet bilge/archives for some badly-needed
support. Ain't gonna happen.

Go home and woodshed, snowflake. <shrug>

Lord Valve, ThD
Expert (fuck you)

Got guns? *WE* do.
We'll use 'em, too.
Try us and see!


Q - WWG1WGA

notbob

unread,
Sep 16, 2018, 1:06:08 PM9/16/18
to
On 9/16/2018 10:02 AM, Lord Valve wrote:

> Got guns?

Yes, I do! ....and I'm not afraid to use them on yer sorry whiny butt!

You already hosed one great newsgroup. You'll not do the same to this
one Now, go back and harass the members of that group (if there's
anyone left). ;)

nb

Flasherly

unread,
Sep 16, 2018, 2:34:01 PM9/16/18
to
On Sun, 16 Sep 2018 11:06:02 -0600, notbob <not...@nothome.com> wrote:

>Yes, I do! ....and I'm not afraid to use them on yer sorry whiny butt!
>
>You already hosed one great newsgroup. You'll not do the same to this
>one Now, go back and harass the members of that group (if there's
>anyone left). ;)

Long ago he told me he doesn't like Yellowjackets, and to some extent
he's right. Fully operational and characteristically, in a strict
sense, I'll agree they don't drive hard well. Keep the volume down,
however, and they'll do: a) while they remain clean enough to sound
consistently sweet, b) that they'll definitely be not 6L6s you'll
hear, for c) loud being to tubes somewhat a subjective experience
(soaks, triode switching, and assorted, may cost a lot more than the
$65 I paid for my YJs). The amp I prefer for the YJs does fine for
its native 6L6 volume, it will get loud while clean. But it does have
a noisy gain stage. The MIG-50 looks to be wide-open noted a clean
amp, either way, quiet low-noise amplification for and up to all gain
and volume: it's one of those amps with a desirable high noise floor
for dialing it in off a well-shielded guitar volume. The YJs are OK
for the variety factor, less to me about getting a handle on "loud" -
which IMO they don't do as they're promoted.

Lord Valve

unread,
Sep 16, 2018, 2:36:59 PM9/16/18
to
On Sunday, September 16, 2018 at 11:06:08 AM UTC-6, potsnob poasted:
> On 9/16/2018 10:02 AM, Lord Valve wrote:
>
> > Got guns?
>
> Yes, I do! ....and I'm not afraid to use them on yer sorry whiny butt!

My goodness. Threats? Tsk tsk.

> You already hosed one great newsgroup.

MAGAGA! DOWN WITH LV!

> You'll not do the same to this
> one

I'll do whatever I feel like doing on any alt.hierarchy ng,
and that's a *good* thing. Usenet is the last place on the
net where leftist fucktards like you can't ride roughshod
over the first amendment.

> Now, go back and harass the members of that group (if there's
> anyone left). ;)

Make me.

notbob

unread,
Sep 16, 2018, 5:10:49 PM9/16/18
to
On 9/16/2018 12:36 PM, Lord Valve wrote:

> My goodness. Threats? Tsk tsk.

> Make me.

> Expert (fuck you)

Threats and swear words.

Yep, it's LV!

nb


Flasherly

unread,
Sep 16, 2018, 10:23:31 PM9/16/18
to
Oh, yeah. Then again the Internet's been a long trip.

Flasherly

unread,
Sep 16, 2018, 10:46:33 PM9/16/18
to
On Sun, 16 Sep 2018 22:23:29 -0400, Flasherly <Flas...@live.com>
wrote:

>Then again the Internet's been a long trip.

My La Pavoni, all but the boiler and heater element need replacement,
IOW it looks like my old UniValve Chevy Van, I kept running from a
junkyard and Lincoln stick welder;- Rod Stewart also sings about it _I
Don't Want to Talk About It_.

So I recently, this past year, bought a $29 Mr. Coffee. For a decent
latte, periodic cleanings of it's aluminum boiler, comparatively, it's
really surprisingly good, which, I guess, deep down inside I always
knew. Full circle, as I'd started out with a "blaster" coffee maker -
another steam-driven contraption, when I first walked into Alt.Coffee,
as you well know, which is sooo full of shit their eyes are the color
of a particularly rare Brazilian Peaberry.

Cheers - think I'll do that and head over to Mr. Coffee.

notbob

unread,
Sep 17, 2018, 11:33:59 AM9/17/18
to
On 9/16/2018 8:46 PM, Flasherly wrote:

> when I first walked into Alt.Coffee,

When was that?

Alt.cofffee usta be a pretty good group, that is until some moron from
Ebay started degrading the group (much like LV) with his PID modified
Rancilio Silvia's and drove everyone out.

> Cheers - think I'll do that and head over to Mr. Coffee.

Funny!

Did you know Mr. Coffee was considered a piece of junk? They tried, for
yrs, to get Joe DiMaggio to plug their junk (cuz he was considered the
most honest person, alive) and they finally did. It didn't improve the
product, any, but who cares! They got the most respected name in mass
media to endorse their product. Now you. ;)

nb --who wouldn't give 5¢ for a Mr Coffee

Flasherly

unread,
Sep 17, 2018, 12:32:59 PM9/17/18
to
On Mon, 17 Sep 2018 09:33:55 -0600, notbob <not...@nothome.com> wrote:

>When was that?
>
>Alt.cofffee usta be a pretty good group, that is until some moron from
>Ebay started degrading the group (much like LV) with his PID modified
>Rancilio Silvia's and drove everyone out.
>
>> Cheers - think I'll do that and head over to Mr. Coffee.
>
>Funny!
>
>Did you know Mr. Coffee was considered a piece of junk? They tried, for
>yrs, to get Joe DiMaggio to plug their junk (cuz he was considered the
>most honest person, alive) and they finally did. It didn't improve the
>product, any, but who cares! They got the most respected name in mass
>media to endorse their product. Now you. ;)
>
>nb --who wouldn't give 5¢ for a Mr Coffee

When first? That may have been with a similar Mr. Coffee product --
an earlier model with the egg-shaped boiler. Basic and same design
concept as the $40 models sold now. Got mine at $29, some few months
ago, just before they jacked it up.

All I want is a latte. Dab of half-&-half, a little more added milk,
and tiny baby spoon with another little dab of honey, dropped
alongside in the extraction cup. Whip all that up with the steam
wand.

Still need the grinder, though. I've a decent Spanish conical burr to
further take down a relatively huge bag of compressed-brick, ground
beans, South American, sold for off-brand Wallymart espresso. Price
Tag: one dollar and fifty cent for 12 or 16oz. in that bag.

Extract into the dairy and steam whip once again. It's effectively
free for literally blowing away anything by comparison that can brew
extracted.

I walked into an English professor, to be more precise about
alt.coffee. Who proceeded to walk my ass up one side and down
another. What did I know with my first Mr. Coffee, other than I liked
it and might possibly learn, refine and improve the techniques. Took
awhile, but I finally convinced him that any teacher, professor or
not, worth his salt - Does Not need harangue My Ass, up oneside, nor
especially the other, in order to gain credibility or self-esteem: A
teacher, one widely known to be wise and respectable, will have his
hands full enough in keeping up with students who will literally beat
down his door to plead he accept their devotion. And he eventually
left, excused himself from further participation, not long after.

It doesn't take much to respect another for their tastes. And if
they're not harming anyone, flagrant or improper, there may not
necessarily be emphatic reason to dissuade them from their simpler,
less conspicuous, elegant or refined enjoyments.

Well, I got technique in hands-on spades. Did it help? Yes and no. I
still basically like a Mr. Coffee;- and that's all I have to say for a
fair amount of money and time, it took to explain, at least to me, why
I do what I do, with $29, instead of a rocket-machine espresso maker
with an astronomical price-tag.

(To be precise: the base model La Pavoni, now $1200-1800 was $200-$300
then. I'm likely more or less to have fit in, being I was new and
interested in groundwork. You may not have noticed, wouldn't have,
given your gear, level of experience and focus at that time. Although
there were times I did.)

notbob

unread,
Sep 17, 2018, 12:56:54 PM9/17/18
to
On 9/17/2018 10:32 AM, Flasherly wrote:

> (To be precise: the base model La Pavoni, now $1200-1800 was $200-$300
> then.

I was one of the early readers of the WWW and Usenet. I bought a "base
model" La Pavoni (Europicolla?). Paid almost $400usd and only got
$70usd when I sold it, used. It, also, was junk! If they are now
charging "$1200-1800", someone is getting royally screwed.

I also had a Spanish conical burr grinder. Shoulda never sold it. I
now have a Mazzer Jolly, but no longer do espresso (nor Mr Coffee). ;)

nb



Flasherly

unread,
Sep 17, 2018, 3:10:16 PM9/17/18
to
On Mon, 17 Sep 2018 10:56:49 -0600, notbob <not...@nothome.com> wrote:

>I was one of the early readers of the WWW and Usenet. I bought a "base
>model" La Pavoni (Europicolla?). Paid almost $400usd and only got
>$70usd when I sold it, used. It, also, was junk! If they are now
>charging "$1200-1800", someone is getting royally screwed.
>
>I also had a Spanish conical burr grinder. Shoulda never sold it. I
>now have a Mazzer Jolly, but no longer do espresso (nor Mr Coffee). ;)

I guess the La Pavoni could be alright for baseline mechanical. It
needs be fully broken down, new and straight out of the box, on a
regular maintenance level. Parts for it should be anticipated, also
able to be substituted or hand-crafted. Every day longer is closer to
it "setting up" with rust and calcification, when running off to the
rip-off parts stores for a $50 O-ring rebuild kit becomes less and
less an easy fix. More money, niche import parts, more complexity in
electro-mechanical issues I didn't want. The greatest ironic saying
historically rerecorded - to know ahead to prepare. La Pavoni is now
the pits for popular reception, last I looked. I paid $100 more than
you on mine new. So now I've the total YouTube video on a Mr. Coffee
breakdown and restoration. The Asasco grinder was probably a third
what a Mazzer Jolly runs, but, hey, reasonable use, no stones, they're
both commercial grade and built to last forever.
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