Using a Behringer Vintage Tube Overdrive TO800 for Tubescreamer mods?
Elmo' 7#9
pots and sockets.
http://www.webphases.com/simon/TO800%20front%20of%20board.jpg
http://www.webphases.com/simon/TO800%20Back%20of%20Board.jpg
Has anybody tried modding this (It's got to be a cheaper basis than buying
an Ibanez Tubescreamer).
Surely it's just a case of removing the existing SMD resistors and diodes
and epoxying the full-size mod components nearby, ready for connection?
Elmo' 7#9
PS
No, I'm not looking to replace the dual op-amp with a full-size "magic"
4558 - I'm just interested in switchable bass rolloff and different
selections for distortion diodes.
Jim
NOT WORTH IT. Besides, ain't the case plastic?
You can buy a used Boss SD-1 and modify it to TS808 much easier. They
even sell kits on ebay, if you need that.
Elmo' 7#9
> You can buy a used Boss SD-1 and modify it to TS808 >much easier.
TO-800 available to me for 15GBP (roughly 7.50USD)
SD-1 is dearer.
I've worked on SMD repairs, scale doesn't come into it.
User is not bothered about shielding (low volume home use).
>They
> even sell kits on ebay, if you need that.
I don't need a "kit" to replace a couple of components.
(I'm sure you don't either!)
Elmo' 7#9
Jim
RE: kit suggestion... All levels of experience post here. I didn't
know if you were a novice or experienced.
It still seems to me that hassle factor exceeds expected gain. I've
never worked on surface mount, though. And I live in a band RF/EMI
area, so plastic stomp boxes don't work for me. And I can always pick
up a uses SD-1 for $30, give or take a few. The additional cost is WELL
worth it to me.
Mods in general: If I have more than a couple of additional components
on a pedal with any spare interior room, I use the circuit board that
has the gazillion drilled holes with copper around each connection. I
cut to smallest practical size with a dremel and cutting tool. Install
my diodes, etc., then jumper wires to the original board. Thin plastic
sheet around it for insulation, a couple wraps of electrical tape, and
you're good to go. I have a mod for the DOD "Death Metal" that requires
several diodes and resistors (to provide overdrive and sane gain
levels), and this has really come in handy over crowding the existing
board.
If you just have a few components, epoxy or silicone goo might make more
sense.
>
> Elmo' 7#9
>
>
Dr. Zontar
> I have a mod for the DOD "Death Metal" that requires
> several diodes and resistors (to provide overdrive and sane gain
> levels)
Huh? The Death Metal pedal is all about obnoxious gain. Why turn it
into an OD, when there are so many other choices out there?
- Rich
Elmo' 7#9
> RE: kit suggestion... All levels of experience post here. I didn't
> know if you were a novice or experienced.
>
> It still seems to me that hassle factor exceeds expected gain. I've
> never worked on surface mount, though.
Aside from eyesight difficulties, SMD is quite easy after a while.
The Behringer board has regular-size capacitors (the bulk of my intended
mods)
and REMOVAL of SMD components (resistors, diodes) is easy and leaves a nice
clean pad to attach a flying lead.
>And I live in a band RF/EMI
> area, so plastic stomp boxes don't work for me.
Too bad, the hum monster is never very far away!
If you have a look at the PCB images,
you'll see that there's an all-encompassing ground plane
filling all unused areas of the board and
accompanying all signal tracks, either side.
This goes a long way towards eliminating interference.
> Mods in general: If I have more than a couple of additional components
> on a pedal with any spare interior room, I use the circuit board that
> has the gazillion drilled holes with copper around each connection. I
> cut to smallest practical size with a dremel and cutting tool. Install
> my diodes, etc., then jumper wires to the original board. Thin plastic
> sheet around it for insulation, a couple wraps of electrical tape, and
> you're good to go.
Sounds all right to me.
I often wire the additional components together using their own leads,
attach the flying leads, encapsulate the rat's nest in epoxy,
then epoxy the resulting blob into the casing.
It's the "lowest footprint" way of adding things to an already tight space.
Elmo' 7#9
Jim
Because I like the reactive tone stack, and other things about how the
circuit is designed. They are readily available at a low cost, and the
case is STRONG.
It's really very easy to play with gain and change it from a buzz
machine into an OD that compresses before it clips. You change a few
resistors, you use switches with series diodes (and I also use LEDs),
some of which I put in the NFB loop of an opamp.
Results are GOOD, with a very reactive bass mid and treble control.
me
First you have to take into account how much extra time to figure out how
to mod it (Figure five hours research, trial and error, etc.) and even if
you get it working, it is low quality parts and unreliable.
Yes, it is cheap for a reason, but isn't saving time to enjoy actually
playing more important?
And how much is your time worth?
If you spent 5 hours R&D on a project that would take 15 minutes on a well
documented BOSS or Ibanez TS7 for $39, then you are saying your time is
worth less that ($30 divided by 5 hours= $6 hour)
Unless this project is for a durable and ddesirable mod, it just ain't
worth bothering, unless you make less that $6 hour
Dr. Zontar
> Results are GOOD, with a very reactive bass mid and treble control.
Cool. Plus you get to show up at a blues jam with a pedal that says
"DEATH METAL" on it. That alone would be worth it for me.
- Rich
Elmo' 7#9
"me" <m...@linux.site> wrote in message
news:pan.2008.02.22....@linux.site...
> Not worth it.
>
> First you have to take into account how much extra time to figure out how
> to mod it (Figure five hours research, trial and error, etc.)
20 seconds - the components I need to replace are in an obvious position!
>and even if
> you get it working, it is low quality parts
A TS808 isn't exactly made of Uranium, either.
>and unreliable.
No more than any other pedal.
>
> Yes, it is cheap for a reason, but isn't saving time to enjoy actually
> playing more important?
I'm doing a friend a favour. It'll bring him happiness.
>
> And how much is your time worth?
My leisure time is not for sale.
Some people unbend paperclips,
I mod pedals.
>
> If you spent 5 hours R&D on a project that would take 15 minutes on a well
> documented BOSS or Ibanez TS7 for $39, then you are saying your time is
> worth less that ($30 divided by 5 hours= $6 hour)
>
> Unless this project is for a durable and ddesirable mod, it just ain't
> worth bothering, unless you make less that $6 hour
Your maths are flawed (in assuming that I don't already know what I'm doing)
and irrelevant (based on commercial assumptions that don't apply).
Elmo' 7#9
Geetar Dave
> If you spent 5 hours R&D on a project that would take 15 minutes on a well
> documented BOSS or Ibanez TS7 for $39, then you are saying your time is
> worth less that ($30 divided by 5 hours= $6 hour)
Much like gigging. Get paid $100 to play for 100 minutes at a nice bar
100 miles from home.
Somehow that process is about 12 hours long, and costs $20 in gas. But
hey, gettin' paid $100 to play is GREAT, right?
-dave-----:::
www.myspace.com/geetardave