"superior tantalum capacitors".....
I'd say: take it with a grain of salt
'nuff said
+
Jochen
Quite right. (The first part about the salt that is.)
I'm going to have to go check it out. Does it talk about selling you
magic resistors too?
- Stratmaster
I've never done a mod or know much about electronics. Can you tell me
why "superior tantalum capacitors" would raise a warning flag? Thanks.
This is my first mod, so I'm not that familiar with the components. It
does go into the 16 point modification with the description of the
parts. Again, I'm not sure what " superior tantalum capacitors " are
or why it should rasie a warning flag. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks.
tantalum capacitors ain't superior to anything. If I'd "beef up" I'd
replace them with electrolytics; if i'd go boutique, I'd try to find
film caps - assuming the values exists. IMHO tantalums are the lowest
species of them all and they are the cheapest.
on the other hand, your paying 1/10th for the parts and 9/10th for the
instructions. Without the instructions - assumed you don't have the
knowledge - the parts themself are worthless. So if the mods *sound
good* it could be could be a good deal. If it gives you the possibility
to learn and start over from there with really good parts, it would even
be better.
I just mocked upon the "marketing babble". IMHO a vendor who needs it
like *that*, should be taken with a bit of caution. If he'd praised the
quality of the instructions and the mod itself - different story.
regards
Jochen
Tantalum capacitors have some good qualities, but they have no tolerance
whatsoever to having reverse voltage applied - even subjected to small
signal AC voltages they can go leaky and/or noisy.
Up to about 1uF you can get reasonably small sized mylar capacitors that
don't suffer the usual shortcomings of most electrolytic types, you can get
multi-layer ceramic in both leaded and SMD up to several uF but they tend to
be a bit lossy at higher frequencies.
Thanks, appreciate your answer.
Thanks, appreciate your answer too!
Anybody that boasts of an awesome sounding component is a snake oil
salesman at best. A Bull * artist at worst. There's nothing in any of
the math that describes these things that would draw any conclusions
that components have any sound. These clowns don't have a clue.Trial
and error is their means of analysis. Ignore all of their marketing
crap. That Bozo on the left coast is a prime example. Clueless. I am
a real engineer with nothing to sell. So take it for whatever it's
worth to you. Any of the component value changes will make a tonal
difference because you are changing the bandwidth of the circuits.
The 2.2k resistor change would be better if you changed the 4.7k to 10
k or more. You'd get more bandwidth and a more linear response out of
the amplifier. While on the subject, if the op amp really made a
difference in how it sounds, you'd have one sorry excuse for a design.
A real kludge. Device dependant = major disastor. The amplifier is
just that: an amplifier. It's supposed to go along for the ride. These
guys are really offensive to me. Tantalum for elelctrolytic is a bunch
of crap. Carbon comp for carbon film is a bunch of crap. Why do the
pictures show carbon film resistors if carbon comps have so much
better tone? Stupidity at best. Deceptively ignorant at worst.
Tell you what... The best overdrive I've ever played is made by a guy
in Dallas. It's a Sound Substance bluezdrive. Kicks the butt of all
the rest. Full'o'crap included.
my 2 cents worth - Jim (Stratmaster)