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Differences btw Teese RMC1 Wah and Fulltone Clyde?

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Darin Raffety

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Feb 9, 2001, 8:53:39 AM2/9/01
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What are the differences between these two wahs? (This has probably been
asked a billion times). I know the RMC1 is not as adjustable, but does that
really matter? Has anyone owned both? Care to comment. How do they sound
with Fulltone pedals? Particularly the Fulldrive II, Soulbender, and Deja
Vibe? Harmony-central reviews are becoming meaningless due to everyone
giving both of these pedals 10's. I'm not real interested in the Teese
RMC3 - sounds too complicated - not to mention expensive. I want the wah to
be musical - an instrument in it's own right. Will the Teese RMC1 (about
$85 less) get me there?

Thanks,
Darin


Stu

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Feb 9, 2001, 3:46:35 PM2/9/01
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I am shocked to say, after getting an RMC-1,
it does not have as good a tone as my Budda IMO.
It is better made, no doubt, but it does not honk
like the Budda, not even close. It depends what
you want it to sound like I know you asked about the Fulltone
which I have never played. Adjustable only matters
if you don't like the one sound it produces.
The Budda has such a great tone with the
pedal all the way back, the problem with that
wah is it needs more of a boost IMO and
it is not as well made, mine crackles at times too.
Still looking for the perfect wah...

Stu

blu...@my-deja.com

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Feb 9, 2001, 5:18:39 PM2/9/01
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Darin

I owned both pedals briefly and AB'd them. I
didn't submit a review on Harmony Central because
I didn't think it was fair to slam someones
product but this is what I found.

The RMC1 has a much thicker, bassier, complex
tone than the Clyde. I loved the sound of the
low frequencies but it didn't have much highend
to speak of. While the RMC sounded thick the
Fulltone sounded more hi-fi with a larger tonal
sweep. now the tonal sweep on the RMC is larger
than say a crybaby because the pot used is
tapered differently and thus gets a wider sweep
on a shorter stroke. The Fulltone accomplishes
the same (well slightly more) by utilizing more
physical sweep. Each has its plusses and
minuses. For instance the Fulltone is easier to
use as a notch filter where you set the pedal at
a particiular point and let it sit, this yields
really cool notched lead sounds. While you can
do the same on the RMC it is a little harder to
find the tone you want since a little foot
movement equals a lot of tone change. Now the
RMC gets really radical wah sounds when you rock
the pedal back and forth because you cover that
tonal sweep in a smaller distance and to do this
on the Clyde you have to rock your foot like
mad. I really hope I am making this clear.
Anyway, the true bypass of the Clyde is much more
effective than the RMC. Now I am playing through
a Dr. Z amp and it is very responsive so this
might not be as apparent on other amps. But
since I use the non-wah sound more than the with
wah sound this was a significant decision factor
for me. After looking at the build quality I
think the Fulltone is an overall beefier design
and I feel more confident about using it. All
these things said I still had to listen to both
pedals back and forth for about an hour before I
made the decision to keep the Clyde. I have
since tweaked the clyde (both the trim pot and
the wah pot starting position) and really like
it. In fact, I play it through a Barber Burn
Unit and I get a tone reminiscent to Gary Howie's
sp? solo material. But if you're on a budget I
don't think you can go wrong with the RMC1
either. I am probably not being very helpful but
I really think both products are great but for me
the Fulltone had a slightly higher score at the
end of the day.

Mike

In article <DDSg6.10767
$kb.6...@typhoon.kc.rr.com>,

Sent via Deja.com
http://www.deja.com/

Analog Mike

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Feb 9, 2001, 11:01:34 PM2/9/01
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Hi,

>>
Anyway, the true bypass of the Clyde is much more
effective than the RMC. <<

I had heard that before, which dumbfounded me as true bypass is true bypass and
the Teese wahs are 100% true bypass. Then I realized why people have that
perception. it is because the stock RMC1 is designed to boost the volume a bit
when on, so when you turn it off it sounds weak as you lose the boost. For
people who don't like that, there is one resistor that can be changed to get
unity gain on an RMC1. Of course on the RMC3 there is a trim pot for that.

Regards, mike ~^v^~ aNaLoG.MaN ~^v^~

Mike "at" analogman dot com http://www.analogman.com

Check out my effects Forum: http://www.delphi.com/guitar

Darin Raffety

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Feb 9, 2001, 11:43:19 PM2/9/01
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Mike,
Could you clarify what you mean when you say the "true bypass of the Clyde
is much more effective than the RMC." BTW, I really appreciate your
comments.

Darin

JaSchwartz

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Feb 10, 2001, 9:06:03 AM2/10/01
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the sound of the rmc 1 has a smoother taper than the clyde. the clyde has more
of a midrange notch. the clyde seems built better. BOth are great. I stayed
with the rmc1.

Analog Mike

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Feb 10, 2001, 10:50:47 AM2/10/01
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Hi,

I replied in another thread:

>>
Anyway, the true bypass of the Clyde is much more
effective than the RMC. <<

I had heard that before, which dumbfounded me as true bypass is true bypass and

Stu

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Feb 10, 2001, 11:17:18 AM2/10/01
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I know exactly what you mean on the RMC-1.
The sweep goes from boomy to trebley in
about 3/4 of an inch. This could be good
for some players, and it is well built,
it all depends what you want in a wah.
I don't care for it too much, it is very hard to
notch it just right with out bending down
and doing by hand. I may look into modding my
Budda becasue that thing goes from a lower
mid range to a higher mid range and seems
to take forever to get there, I can also rock the
pedal all the way back with my foot and
get an instant usable tone.

Stu

grt...@my-deja.com

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Feb 10, 2001, 11:13:01 AM2/10/01
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AnalogMan is right about the volume adjustment vs. perception of "true-
bypass". There is also a one component change that can brighten the
top end a bit. My RMC1 is designed as a hot-rodded wah, not just a
vintage Vox circuit clone. Production of my RMC1 took off so fast that
until recently I was using my prototype pcb. The reduced pcb size and
fine circuit traces should not be mistaken for inferior. As I build
every pcb myself I cannot agree that the build quality of my wahs is
lower than anyone elses's. Even this first run of ROC-POT2's is made
by hand right here. The only problematic part in my wahs is the same
as in every wah - the switch.

I thank everyone for their input in this discussion and I hope there is
more. I build my wahs for anyone and everyone who likes how they sound
and what they can do, and I thank the thousands who own them. I also
realize that not everyone will find my wahs to be the perfect wah for
them. Beauty is, and always has been, in the ear of the beholder.

Geoffrey R. Teese
REAL MCCOY CUSTOM

Richard

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Feb 10, 2001, 12:47:13 PM2/10/01
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I put an RMC-MOD board into an old Vox V846, with a Fulltone pot and a
DPDT switch for the bypass. Best sounding wah I've ever had, and
certainly among the 10 or so best I've ever heard.

Statements like this are meaningless, though. One of the 2 or 3 best wah
sounds I've ever heard is Wayne Krantz' -- and he uses a stock Dunlop
"Original" Crybaby. I tried a couple in a store and they sounded so bad
it was a joke. Go figure.

inc...@banet.net says...

--
No one dies wishing they'd spent more time at the office.

This post simply contains some of my personal opinions.
ObURL: http://home.earthlink.net/~huddler

Tavo Vega

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Feb 9, 2001, 1:08:53 PM2/9/01
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I feel that a good middle (read; affordable) ground is a Vox wah w/ true
bypass, the clyde inductor and fullrange pot. The sweep is smoother, and
while limited by the construction of the vox' pedal.. its sweet spot isnt
just a 1/16 of movement within the pedals treadle. You've got a wider sweep
of that great vowel-like/vomitous sound.(remeber this is after the mods) I
also feel that there is a place for different wahs in different sound
environments. Some may be great in the studio and bedroom, but for a giggin'
musician its got to sonically speak above the grease of stage volume and the
other musicians. especially drums and keys... imho The fulltone mod vox is
just that for my band.. though I do like the buddah plus when there is an
overdrive pedal just after it, very nice toy...
In whatever performance setting I need a good tubescreamer and a wah (and
delay,chorus,flange,tremelo,vibe,ebo,comp... :) the modded
vox and the modded ts9 are working man tone tools. Doesnt mean I dont
likethe others but as my ol pappy use to say.."beware of the man with one
gun".... modded gun that is... *grin*
TV

ps. If you want these drop 'n solder parts, I can get em for you as I sell
mojotone parts. otherwise you can get most of this stuff at
www.fulltone.com, mike fuller is a pretty good sport in helping you build
your hotrod. If you just cant muster the skills, analogman's mike p. will
mystify you with his electro-tech transformations. He does all the good mod
shite.

THE WIRED TURTLE
http://www.ikilledrock.com/wiredturtle/home.html
Stu <inc...@banet.net> wrote in message news:3A85698E...@banet.net...

Stu

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Feb 11, 2001, 2:37:52 AM2/11/01
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Tavo Vega wrote:

> I feel that a good middle (read; affordable) ground is a Vox wah w/ true
> bypass, the clyde inductor and fullrange pot. The sweep is smoother, and
> while limited by the construction of the vox' pedal.. its sweet spot isnt
> just a 1/16 of movement within the pedals treadle. You've got a wider sweep
> of that great vowel-like/vomitous sound.(remeber this is after the mods) I
> also feel that there is a place for different wahs in different sound
> environments. Some may be great in the studio and bedroom, but for a giggin'
> musician its got to sonically speak above the grease of stage volume and the
> other musicians. especially drums and keys... imho The fulltone mod vox is
> just that for my band.. though I do like the buddah plus when there is an
> overdrive pedal just after it, very nice toy...
> In whatever performance setting I need a good tubescreamer and a wah (and
> delay,chorus,flange,tremelo,vibe,ebo,comp... :) the modded
> vox and the modded ts9 are working man tone tools. Doesnt mean I dont
> likethe others but as my ol pappy use to say.."beware of the man with one
> gun".... modded gun that is... *grin*
> TV
>
> ps. If you want these drop 'n solder parts, I can get em for you as I sell
> mojotone parts. otherwise you can get most of this stuff at
> www.fulltone.com, mike fuller is a pretty good sport in helping you build
> your hotrod. If you just cant muster the skills, analogman's mike p. will
> mystify you with his electro-tech transformations. He does all the good mod
> shite.

Thanks for taking the time to respond. I use wah almost always with
overdrive, that's why I like the tone of the Budda, with this wah
all the way back, it gets such a vocal sound. Reminds me a lot
of Dire Straits Money For Nothing. . While playing
the RMC-1 I did noticed that one sounded better with clean guitar,
but that's not what I use it for unfortunately.
I have used a few others, but even with all the sounds the 535Q gets,
it could not get the one sound the Budda gets.
When I got that, I said that is the sound, but it
needs more of a boost, comes up short volume wise. It also crackles
on occasion, seems like the 9v jack. It is a mass produced Dunlop piece of crap,

but I love the sound. The RMC-1 is everything I want, except the tone.
It is well made, sturdy, nice boost. I'm not sure which one to mod.
I would not do it myself though, but would like to send one out
while I still use the other. I just want to take the units and make the
one I like with out buying a 3rd one.

Stu

blu...@my-deja.com

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Feb 11, 2001, 12:23:29 PM2/11/01
to
Darin

When I compared the true bypass effectiveness of the two pedals I
tested it in the following way. I would connect my guitar to the Clyde
and then to the amp. Without turning on the wah I would play through
the amp. I would then disconnect the Clyde and connect the RMC1.
Without turning on the wah I would play through the amp. When I said
that the true bypass in the clyde was more effective I mean that when
turned off the effect did not sound like it was in the signal chain.
The RMC1 continued to roll off some high end when it was turned off.
I also compared a mid eighties crybaby to the RMC1 and there was a
definite improvement in tone with the effect off when using the RMC1
vs. the Crybaby.

I am a little confused with Analog Mike's description of why I heard
what I commented on as he wasn't with me when I AB'd the two products.
Since he sells the RMC1 I think he might have a conflict of interests
here. At the very least it concerns me that he would dispute my
findings and attribute the difference to a volume boost when my method
of comparing the two true bypasss circuits didn't involve turning the
effects on.

Mike

In article <HF3h6.2126$xh3.2...@typhoon.kc.rr.com>,

In article <HF3h6.2126$xh3.2...@typhoon.kc.rr.com>,

stephjeff

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Feb 11, 2001, 1:49:38 PM2/11/01
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I just got a budda wah and I love the tone clean and dirty. I thought
it was made well? I do hear a very slight loss of volume/gain when
using the effect. I can only compare this to my Crybaby and it is WAY
better. The Crybaby sounds like an AM radio compared to the Budda. The
budda doesn't have that harsh thinness or the hiss of the Crybaby. No
ocean effect.

Anyone tried the Budda wah+ it has a boost in it, but I don't know how
it works with the wah. It also acts as a volume sweep. I just want a
wah.

Jeff

Richard

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Feb 11, 2001, 1:59:48 PM2/11/01
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> I am a little confused with Analog Mike's description of why I heard
> what I commented on as he wasn't with me when I AB'd the two products.

You didn't really AB them, in the strictest sense. I read a few research
findings that show sound memory is too fragile for the kind of test you
describe (where there's a significant pause between the two samples).

Depending on what I'm AB'ing, I use either a couple of straight A/B boxes
or a hard-bypass loop box (Axess Electronics). I figure if I can't
compare sounds almost instaneously against each other, the AB test is
largely invalid.

Ender1616

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Feb 11, 2001, 2:41:01 PM2/11/01
to
mike-

i think you've got to do a little more research (and perhaps a little more
thinking-before-you-write) before you can start posting negative comments about
a person (analogmike) who many of us have dealt with, and who many of us KNOW
to be a fine, upstanding businessman, as well as a very knowledgeable person in
the realm of guitar effects. in your original post, you didn't say that you
A/Bed the wah pedals with them both off, and analogmike's assumption (that the
RMC might SOUND like its bypass is worse because of the built-in boost when
it's on) is a perfectly reasonable suggestion. if you tested them with both
pedals off, of course this doesnt apply (whether or not true-bypass varies in
quality is another issue altogether). but responding to a logical suggestion
with an accusation of crooked business practices, rather than a simple
explanation of your particular testing process, is totally out of line.

-mike

Stu

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Feb 11, 2001, 5:10:45 PM2/11/01
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1st off, I can't emphasize enough that this can be
just like saying I prefer a Tele to a Strat and I prefer
a DOD milkbox to a Ross compressor. The RMC1
is a great wah in many ways. I just got locked into
the sound of my Budda, and now rely on the tone
of it so much. It's built better than the Dunlop Crybabys
(I know same maker) but not as good as some of the
other wahs out there, like Teese, Fulltone etc...
As for the wah+, I never ever tried it, it may be
good, but I don't like dual function effects usually,
reminds me of the TV/VCR combo, more things to
go wrong.

Stu

Kate Ebneter

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Feb 11, 2001, 9:02:47 PM2/11/01
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blu...@my-deja.com wrote:
>
> Darin
>
> When I compared the true bypass effectiveness of the two pedals I
> tested it in the following way. I would connect my guitar to the Clyde
> and then to the amp. Without turning on the wah I would play through
> the amp. I would then disconnect the Clyde and connect the RMC1.
> Without turning on the wah I would play through the amp. When I said
> that the true bypass in the clyde was more effective I mean that when
> turned off the effect did not sound like it was in the signal chain.
> The RMC1 continued to roll off some high end when it was turned off.

<snip>

Since both the Fulltone and the Teese have true bypass -- nothing but
a wire when the effect is turned off -- I really find this difficult to
believe. I don't own an RMC1, but I do own an RMC3, and it doesn't do
a thing to the signal when it's turned off. (And before you go making
strange comments about me, I own a Clyde, as well, and it also has a
perfectly fine bypass.)

The test you describe above, btw, is not a true A/B test. Sense memory
is very unreliable; a better way is to use an A/B box (passive) and
have someone else do the switching.

> I am a little confused with Analog Mike's description of why I heard
> what I commented on as he wasn't with me when I AB'd the two products.
> Since he sells the RMC1 I think he might have a conflict of interests
> here. At the very least it concerns me that he would dispute my
> findings and attribute the difference to a volume boost when my method
> of comparing the two true bypasss circuits didn't involve turning the
> effects on.

Of course, you didn't mention _how_ you came to your conclusions in
your original post, so Mike has to guess. True bypass is true bypass;
there's simply no physical way for what you describe to be true.

Mike has nothing against Fulltone effects, either, AFAIK; I certainly
don't.

Kate Ebneter
Collector of Noise Toys

Analog Mike

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Feb 11, 2001, 9:36:28 PM2/11/01
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Hi,

Thank you for your kind works, I was just trying to help...

I still have no idea how an RMC wah (or a Fulltone, or Joemama or any wah with
truebypass) which is off can alter the signal. here is what is going on when
the wah is off:

DPDT switch (Carling usually)

A B C
D E F

Input jack -> 4" wire -> switch lug B ->
switch contact AB -> jumper from lug A to lug D on switch ->
switch contact DE -> 4" wire -> output jack.

So if there is a problem, the only logical place could be one of the switch
contacts. usually when a Carling switch is bad, it lets out no sound at all so
that would be unusual.

p.s. to reduce the possible contact problems by 50% you can move the jumper on
one side to a middle terminal, so when OFF there is only one switch contact
that the signal goes through instead of two. Ex: move jumper AD to AE instead.

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