No "Sound" from my Fender Jazz Bass, Part 2
cwest...@gmail.com
amp.
So I changed the 9v battery and tried the bass on the pignose amp and
a Vox.
All I get is the mechanical sound of the strings being plucked,
nothing at all from the amp.
I do get static thru the amp when I pull out the cable from the bass,
if that means anything.
So, Ideas as to how to proceed? I'm a sax player and guitars are
strictly a side thing for me. I can
fix them, but guitars and electronics, nope.
Thx for any suggestions before I head off to the shop with it.
Craig
dusto...@mac.com
wrote:
> okay, last time I posted I did not have access to a battery or another
> amp.
>
> So I changed the 9v battery and tried the bass on the pignose amp and
> a Vox.
>
> All I get is the mechanical sound of the strings being plucked,
> nothing at all from the amp.
>
> I do get static thru the amp when I pull out the cable from the bass,
> if that means anything.
That's why you pull the amp end out first <g>. After killing the
volume.
(I hear people being very careless with this and my caution comes from
starting to play in the age when one had to be very careful of one's
bass speakers and pops, "static", whatever were thought to be
harmful).
> So, Ideas as to how to proceed? I'm a sax player and guitars are
> strictly a side thing for me. I can
> fix them, but guitars and electronics, nope.
> Thx for any suggestions before I head off to the shop with it.
OK, I can't hear your amp but if you get a pop when you pull the plug
out of the bass, and a hum when you hold the plug (across pos. and
neg.), then the amp and cord might be working OK and it's the bass. It
would be better to hear another bass or guitar work correctly with
that amp and cord, including while moving the cord around to make sure
you don't have a broken conductor in the cord that sometimes makes
contact (completing the circuit) and sometimes doesn't carry current,
depending on position.
Did you put a new 9v in the bass? Do you have a way to test the
battery (even if it is "new", a good idea), say with some device that
uses 9v?
Once you know the battery is strong, and thus, for the bass, "it's
plugged in" (always the very first thing to check with electrical
stuff), then maybe you've eliminated the amp, the cord, and the
battery from the list, leaving the bass.
It might be as simple as the output jack in the bass having been bent
so that the "hot" (positive), the part of the jack that is supposed to
make contact with the end "knob" on the cable's male plug, isn't
fitting in there correctly. That's something you can look at yourself
by removing pickguard screws-- or might be seen from the back
depending on how your battery compartment is laid out. If that's the
problem, Fender might have put a cheesy jack in there and it would be
better to replace it with a new, good one, like Switchcraft that you
can buy in Guitar Center.
I did manage to break a solder joint on a pickup lead or another
control wire once-- a loose, unsoldered wire could be an easy fix if
you can determine where the wire was soldered before it came loose.
After that, others with electrical expertise and perhaps experience
with Fender active electronics might have suggestions of which way to
jump next. Good luck!
--D-y
JoeSpareBedroom
news:052508ad-2fc9-4010...@f5g2000yqh.googlegroups.com...
dustoyevsky's message was laden with clues about the shopping list you need
to make, especially if you intend to play gigs.
- Two **NEW** spare cords, stored in such a way that they're not crushed,
twisted or otherwise abused.
- volt/ohm meter and batteries for same.
- Spare 9v batteries. My bass requires two. I always have 6 or 8 on hand.
- Your favorite headache medication
- Spare bass, if you really feel cursed. Even a cheap one will do, compared
to nothing.
I don't know what I'd do if my amp head died at a gig, but I try not to
think about it. The best PA system in this town still sounds awful with bass
running through it.
Toby Gray
Open up the control cavity and do a visual inspection for broken wires
especially around the jack.
See if the jack is making good contact with the 1/4 plug (cord).
Battery plugged in correctly polarity wise?
T.
DGDevin
"cr...@earthlink.net" <cwest...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:052508ad-2fc9-4010...@f5g2000yqh.googlegroups.com...
> So, Ideas as to how to proceed? I'm a sax player and guitars are
> strictly a side thing for me. I can
> fix them, but guitars and electronics, nope.
>
> Thx for any suggestions before I head off to the shop with it.
>
> Craig
As others have pointed out there are several low-tech steps you can take
like looking for the proverbial loose wire, or a bad replacement battery or
a guitar cable that has developed a fault. A multi-meter (low-end versions
are dirt cheap these days) can be a big help when checking to see if there
is a bad solder joint or whatever. Since you're going to pay a repair shop
maybe thirty bucks just to diagnose what is wrong (and then two or three
times that--plus parts--to fix it) it's worth a little time to see if there
is something easy that you can fix. I'm no electronics tech, but I've found
and repaired faults on electric instruments like defective jacks and
disconnected wires, it isn't quite rocket science.
suds mcduff
>
> dustoyevsky's message was laden with clues about the shopping list you need
> to make, especially if you intend to play gigs.
>
> - Two **NEW** spare cords, stored in such a way that they're not crushed,
> twisted or otherwise abused.
> - volt/ohm meter and batteries for same.
----Long stemmed phillips and standard small head screwdrivers...
> - Spare 9v batteries. My bass requires two. I always have 6 or 8 on hand.
----Mine has a passive option in case of emergency...
> - Your favorite headache medication
----Maybe a couple No Doze and diarrhea pills as well....ya never know...
----Small mag lite flashlight....
> - Spare bass, if you really feel cursed.
----I still haul my old 4 string to gigs .....it's a good "sit in"
bass.. we once got a good size tip ($200) at a corporate gig when one of
the owner honchos was intimidated by the five string, but was happy to
play the 4....
Even a cheap one will do, compared
> to nothing.
----DI box? Just in case?
I also run the pa, and I bring the manuals for the components in a 3
ring binder, along with lyrics for our current set list....nothing like
karaoke with a live band...
>
> I don't know what I'd do if my amp head died at a gig, but I try not to
> think about it. The best PA system in this town still sounds awful with bass
> running through it.
----Yup....I've yet to run my bass DI through the pa, and dread it ever
has to happen, but that'd be the only solution, eh?
dusto...@mac.com
> > - Spare 9v batteries. My bass requires two. I always have 6 or 8 on hand.
>
> ----Mine has a passive option in case of emergency...
Again, something I really like about my old G&L L-2000. Works fine
passive or active.
Question: why aren't they all like that <g>?
> ----Maybe a couple No Doze and diarrhea pills as well....ya never know...
Spare underwear?
Ah, the Gig Bag: You include new items as they are needed, except
later <g>.
Small mag lite is great. There are some "bendable" trouble lights out
there now that are totally cool, so you can position a light to shine
where you need it.
I have a friend who has been playing the same (bass) strings for about
9 months (or so he says, but I think it's true).
Still no new ones (or better, "just broken in") in the bag or he is
just fooling with me.
I can't imagine going to a gig without at least one spare set-- maybe
one broken in, one new new.
(Said as one who never broke a string on the job).
Spares are good voodoo, IME.
"Tools to work on everything", plus being at least a little picky
about keeping after things.
There's another good one trying to be remembered, but the war story
won't quite surface. Later, maybe.
--D-y
DGDevin
<dusto...@mac.com> wrote in message
news:4a6459e6-79ae-4020...@22g2000yqr.googlegroups.com...
On Jan 2, 3:36 pm, suds mcduff <sudsmcduff19...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Small mag lite is great. There are some "bendable" trouble lights out
> there now that are totally cool, so you can position a light to shine
> where you need it.
I got one of those headstrap LED lights awhile back and have found it really
useful on a variety of occasions since it's always pointed in the right
place, namely where my eyes are looking.
Derek Tearne
> I have a friend who has been playing the same (bass) strings for about
> 9 months (or so he says, but I think it's true).
> Still no new ones (or better, "just broken in") in the bag or he is
> just fooling with me.
I've been playing bass for something like 30 years. At some point in
the past I did carry spare strings, but I don't bother any more. The
simple fact is that I've only ever broken one bass string in performance
in all that time - and considering I was deliberately overwinding that
with a power drill it wasn't entirely an unexpected result. Oh and that
wasn't, technically, a bass guitar.
So I don't carry extra strings any more.
Anyway, that's why all basses should have 5+ strings - so there's always
a spare...
All those other things are good though.
--- Derek
--
Derek Tearne - de...@url.co.nz
Vitamin S - improvisation from Aotearoa/New Zealand
http://www.vitamin-s.co.nz/
JoeSpareBedroom
news:pZydnR4Nxp1tgt3W...@earthlink.com...
I wish I had that tonight, as the club was turning off all its lights. There
goes 1/3 of the gig money......
suds mcduff
> On Jan 2, 3:36 pm, suds mcduff <sudsmcduff19...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>>> - Spare 9v batteries. My bass requires two. I always have 6 or 8 on hand.
>> ----Mine has a passive option in case of emergency...
>
> Again, something I really like about my old G&L L-2000. Works fine
> passive or active.
> Question: why aren't they all like that <g>?
>
>> ----Maybe a couple No Doze and diarrhea pills as well....ya never know...
>
> Spare underwear?
----Not if ya bring the pills..... ;^ )
suds mcduff
of my cap.....but it's still handy to have that mag light in it's sheath
on your belt....bailed us out many times....
DGDevin
"suds mcduff" <sudsmcd...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:hhq804$ha9$2...@news.eternal-september.org...
>> I got one of those headstrap LED lights awhile back and have found it
>> really useful on a variety of occasions since it's always pointed in the
>> right place, namely where my eyes are looking.
> ---Yeah, they're great for setting up, I have one that goes on the bill of
> my cap.....but it's still handy to have that mag light in it's sheath on
> your belt....bailed us out many times....
I also have a couple of tiny LED lights that I carry with my keys (meaning I
always have one)--the kind that lock "On" are more useful that the ones that
require constant finger pressure. I have a little belt pack for a
mini-Maglite, multi-tool, cell phone etc., but I don't wear it because it
makes people think I'm a repair tech who is there to fix something they
called about days ago and what the hell took me so long.
Golem
> On Jan 2, 3:36 pm, suds mcduff <sudsmcduff19...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > > - Spare 9v batteries. My bass requires two. I always have 6 or 8 on hand.
>
> > ----Mine has a passive option in case of emergency...
>
> Again, something I really like about my old G&L L-2000. Works fine
> passive or active.
> Question: why aren't they all like that <g>?
>
Cuz the reason a GnL works the same both active
and passive mode is that the bass and treble pots
are both "cut-only", aka "passive". Thus there is
no bass or treble boost, and boost sells. A GnL
has an active pre-amp, but no active EQ.
Here and there you find a high end ax with both
an active 2 or 3 band EQ, plus a passive "tone
control" [like a P-Bass] for treble cut in passive
mode, but thaz too much extra expense for most
ax builders in the most competitive price ranges
[from $500 to $2000 USD].
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Not that the GnL system is a drag. Most of us
have more than sufficient boost on our rig, and
boost via the rig is generally higher quality than
boost via the on-board active EQ-pre. Plus, a
GnL is a great ax for the wanker who happens
to be unclued about how it works: Dime both
EQ bands and you're actually at "flat". Or set
both bands to center and you really have more
mids than anything else. All for the betterness
of tone and lessness of mud.
dusto...@mac.com
Thanks. When I have attempted to play modern basses (Lakland,
Sadowsky) with what to me is a plethora of knobs and switches, "I
ask".
There is possibly some "boost" on the L2000 G&L, at the three-position
"passive, active, active w/boost" mini switch. It all sounds good to
me but I like passive, maybe because I never got comfy with the
thought of having a battery in an electric (<g>) bass.
IRT "tone and lessness of mud": I got many compliments back in the day
for the sound my L1000 got through a Music Man HD130, MM 1-15" w/Gauss
speaker in it. Which would give a convincing imitation of "Jbass" and
"Pbass", besides having a pleasing, non-muddy sound of its own.
Note, "both EQ bands", for those who are not 'sperienced with G&L
means they (at least my old ones) have a treble and bass tone control.
That's just about the right amount of complication, IMHO, especially
when combined with pup and coil selector switches <g>.
--D-y
Golem
>
> There is possibly some "boost" on the L2000 G&L, at the three-position
> "passive, active, active w/boost" mini switch.
Right. Altho there's no boost via active EQ,
there IS that 3-way mini-toggle, which has
a mild treble boost mode.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
I dig it. It's less hot than the typical "Bright"
switch, more like a mild upper-mids boost.
Maybe I wouldn't dig it with frets. Both of
my GnLs are FL. Especially on the oldie,
the pre-amp treble boost can be running
along with the "single-coils + bass-boost"
mode. It's not really bass boost ... just an
extra tone cap that seems [to my ear] to
cut extra highs while not cutting mids, or
[obviousleeee... ] bass. Combine that 'EQ'
with the hog body, and ebony FB, for one
very rocked out FL. I think it weighs over
10 lbs, but worth every ounce to hear it.
dusto...@mac.com
Yup, heavy but a fine sound. Both mine are mahogany body, ebony
'boards, fretted.
Well, all according to what suits you, of course, as far as "tone"
goes but let's just say the frets don't seem to be much of an
impediment <g>.
Haven't taken the plunge yet but an L1000 fretless (mo-hog and ebony,
please) would probably "complete" my collection.
Until we start talking "display models", of course. For instance, that
translucent red body w/maple FB. Slightly more attention-grabbing,
perhaps, but still something of a classic look <g>.
--D-y
Oci-One Kanubi
wrote:
Go to http://www.fender.com/support/wiring_diagrams_parts_lists.php
and download the wiring diagram for the model that you have (deciding
which probably won't be easy, since they list about 20 varieties of
Jazz Bass). Probably "Deluxe Active Jazz Bass".
Gee-zeus, I just looked at that wiring diagram(http://www.fender.com/
support/diagrams/pdf_temp1/basses/0136700B/SD0136700BPg2.pdf) and I
sure am glad I play passive Precision basses!
You will be able to follow most of the wiring to see if any of the
connections have failed. The only thing you won't be able to see by
pulling off the control plate will be whether the ground wire is
connected to the bridge.
If you find anything disconnected, just hold the wire into place and
pluck a string; if that does it, then solder it on and yer good to
go. But if it appears that all the connections are good, you'll need
to take it into a shop to bench-test the individual controls and the
bridge ground.
I can tell you nothing about the pre-amp circuitry, though. It's
probably a whole-unit R&R if the problem is there.
-Richard, His Kanubic Travesty
--
Richard Hopley, Winston-Salem, NC, USA
Nothing really matters except Boats, Sex, and Rock'n'Roll
Benj
Sounds like you've got a broken wire. Most likely the yellow one!
(not kidding, Some Fenders have crap wires that snap off from
vibration. The "yellow one" on mine broke off twice until I just
ripped it out and install some "real" wire. Could be a battery wire
too. Plug to amp and then disconnect/connect battery. You should get a
huge pop in amp. If nothing happens it means battery power circuit is
open and giving no power. Again look for broken wires, and especially
broken wires at the battery clip. OK?
cwest...@gmail.com
wrote:
so here is what happened next......
found a new Fender cable and got my old Crate BT50 bass amp out of
storage.
the bass works fine.
so, the mystery to me is why would my violin bass and Ibanez bass
work on the old cable I used through a Vox guitar amp, while the
Fender bass just sat there looking pretty, but silent.
Could it be that the amp would not work with the fender?
so all is well with the bass. Thx for all the suggestions. I will
keep if and when the little wires decide to fail me in the future.
Craig
Golem
wrote:
>
> so here is what happened next......
>
> found a new Fender cable and got my old Crate BT50 bass amp out of
> storage.
>
> the bass works fine.
>
> so, the mystery to me is why would my violin bass and Ibanez bass
> work on the old cable I used through a Vox guitar amp, while the
> Fender bass just sat there looking pretty, but silent.
>
> Could it be that the amp would not work with the fender?
>
> so all is well with the bass. Thx for all the suggestions. I will
> keep if and when the little wires decide to fail me in the future.
>
I'm still thinking it's a cable-and-jack
compatibility deal. There is a lack of
real standardization of the tip shape
on 1/4" phone plugs, and not all jacks
are equally firendly to all tip shapes ...
and most importantly this can change
with use ... certain tip shapes can do
some evil work inside certain jacks.
But it doesn't kill the jack for ALL tips.
The tip that perpetrates the change
may continue to work fine, but the
jack that suffered the effects may now
fail to work with some OTHER plug[s]
that it was formerly friendly with.
Benj
You writing for soap operas again? There is standardization but you
really have to watch no-name import cords that you often find on sale
cheap. They will sometimes be in odd sizes that either do things to
jacks or don't work at all. I Have some I got real cheap and are nice
cords but have non-standard plugs. The only way I could make them work
is to slide a rubber washer with a 1/4" hole over the plugs so they
wouldn't go all the way into the jack where they'd lose contact.
dusto...@mac.com
Small and pointy v. rounded, bulbous?
Hey OP: throw the bad cord out-- maybe cut the ends off so it doesn't
get salvaged somehow ("do someone a favor" <g>), and get another nice,
standardly ended cord, Fender or whatever, or get some wire and
standard plugs and make up a couple of your own.
At least two known-good cords at the ready, prevent frustration and
possible embarrassment, also having to replace a damaged output jack.
(Excuse, please) "Is it plugged in?" modified to "is it *really*
plugged in?" <g>
Back when we were kids, yrs trly and another electrical engineer had a
big problem because neither of us followed a power cord all the way
from where it came out the back of the amp to the plug at the end.
Yup, I plugged my early blackface Bassman into itself, and that's why
it wouldn't turn on (son of a gun!). So, yes, technically it *was*
"plugged in", but in the mess of power cords behind the amps, mine
took a convincing turn around another one. Well, at least it fooled
the other fool, too.
Eventually, power and reason (to some extent) were restored, and the
show went on.
--D-y