More GAS: OLP MM2 (stingray-like), nice!
Jose de las Heras
I was never attracted to Stingrays. Large body, design... nah.
Then this talk about OLPs... and listening to the RHCP... and I find a nice
MM2 (the single pickup version).
So I end up buying it.
A lot of bass for little money, it really is a good bass. I know it's
substantially different from a Stingray (passive instead of active) but I've
never played a Stingray and I really like this one. I thought the
volume-volume-tone configuration was odd and pointless, until I tried it.
Interesting take.
When I took it home I took it apart, cleaned up the pots, shielded pickup
and control cavities, etc... new strings, and it sings!
I had thought I could make it active, but the control cavity is tiny and I'm
not about to do major surgery here... still, probably a good idea to keep it
simple. If I keep it (very likely) it's going to be a backup bass so the
simpler teh better, less things to go wrong.
That's all.
Jose, happy MM2 owner.
--
www.mcnach.com
www.myspace.com/purplenoise68
-
Current favourite guitar: Fender 'Sambora' Stratocaster
Current favourite bass: Warwick Corvette $$
Mike
No pics of it yet on your website? C'mon man!
Pt
> That's all.
>
> Jose, happy MM2 owner.
I have had my Olp for close to 5 years and I still like it.
One good mod is to replace the rubber under the pickup with springs
around the scrws so you can adjust the height.
The pickup is a humbucker with two outputs so each volume is for each
side of the pickup.
The body is the same size as a P or J Fender.
Pt
JGN
> A lot of bass for little money, it really is a good bass. I know it's
> substantially different from a Stingray (passive instead of active) but I've
> never played a Stingray and I really like this one. I thought the
> volume-volume-tone configuration was odd and pointless, until I tried it.
> Interesting take.
I thought it was "nice", but ultimately pointless for the idea I have of the
OLP, which is "big fat humbucker" - I'd rewire the humbucker in series,
volume-tone and a free pot just for show, no investment other than solder and
ten minutes of your time :)
js
"Jose de las Heras" <jos...@tiscali.co.uk> wrote in message
news:75c9uoF...@mid.individual.net...
Derek Tearne
> I had thought I could make it active, but the control cavity is tiny and I'm
> not about to do major surgery here... still, probably a good idea to keep it
> simple. If I keep it (very likely) it's going to be a backup bass so the
> simpler teh better, less things to go wrong.
The electronics cavity in the active OLP basses isn't exactly huge
either.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/drtearne/3469325271
http://www.flickr.com/photos/drtearne/3470136696
http://www.flickr.com/photos/drtearne/3469324143
You really don't need that much room for some of these pre-amps. It's a
shame the pre-amps aren't available as an after market item. I suspect
there is probably a warehouse full of them somewhere now that OLP basses
are no longer being made.
Compare that to the much larger cavity in a Wal bass.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/drtearne/3470208282/
--- Derek
--
Derek Tearne - de...@url.co.nz
Vitamin S - improvisation from Aotearoa/New Zealand
http://www.vitamin-s.co.nz/
Jose de las Heras
"Mike" <tetr...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:db07d8f1-15a9-4adc...@r37g2000yqn.googlegroups.com...
####
uffff, my website is badly out of date... but here are some pics anyway :-)
body
http://www.mcnach.com/MISC/OLP_MM2/DSCF2695b.jpg
http://www.mcnach.com/MISC/OLP_MM2/DSCF2672b.jpg
http://www.mcnach.com/MISC/OLP_MM2/DSCF2697b.jpg
http://www.mcnach.com/MISC/OLP_MM2/DSCF2683b.jpg
front
http://www.mcnach.com/MISC/OLP_MM2/DSCF2687b.jpg
back
http://www.mcnach.com/MISC/OLP_MM2/DSCF2688b.jpg
headstock
http://www.mcnach.com/MISC/OLP_MM2/DSCF2692b.jpg
http://www.mcnach.com/MISC/OLP_MM2/DSCF2693b.jpg
I removed the thumbrest but I have no pics of that. It was just attached
with some very strong rubbery sort of glue so it left no mark (just rubbed
the area a bit with isopropanol after I pulled it off).
The plate is also going, I'm putting a black one there. I already tracked
down one from an OLP, so it should fit pretty well.
It's a great bass. There's only one problem with it. You see... now I get
crazy ideas in my head like "hmmm, I should try a real Stingray even if it
costs nearly 10x more". ;-)
I had this idea that the body was too large, but it isn't. It is larger than
my Warwick Corvette or my Tanglewood Warrior, but it feels alright and
balances fine:
http://www.mcnach.com/gearpics/Guitars/bass/WarwickCorvetteSS/CorvetteSS_full1.jpg
http://www.mcnach.com/gearpics/Guitars/bass/WarwickCorvetteSS/CorvetteSS_body1.jpg
#
http://www.mcnach.com/MISC/Warrior/DSCF2637b.jpg
http://www.mcnach.com/MISC/Warrior/DSCF2630b.jpg
http://www.mcnach.com/MISC/Warrior/DSCF2631b.jpg
http://www.mcnach.com/MISC/Warrior/DSCF2636b.jpg
you wanted pictures? you got pictures! ;-)
Jose
--
www.mcnach.com
Jose de las Heras
"Pt" <pea...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:6342c34f-64f9-4565...@h2g2000yqg.googlegroups.com...
Pt
##
re: pickup
when I got it the pickup was a bit loose. The foam underneath was too thin
and already compacted. I added more (I've done this many times so I always
have some around) and the pickup is now solid at the height I want it. I
prefer foam to springs because it feels more solid to me that way.
re: size
exactly! that's why i thought it was too big. I had a Jazz and loved it, but
sometimes it looked bigger than me when I saw some pictures of me playing it
:-) (I'm about 5.6", medium build)
But it feels fine and plays fine so I'm not going to worry too much about
aesthetics... maybe I could wear a green suit with one of those funny hats
with a buckle, and specialise in Irish parties ;-)
Jose
Jose de las Heras
"JGN" <j.ago...@gmaiil.com.ru> wrote in message
news:4df7c6-...@despair.pu239.ru...
My Warwick Corvette $$ has two big fat MM-style humbuckers, with a switch
for each pickup to choose between coils in series/parallel and a single
coil. I actually use the parallel position a lot, so I guess I already like
that sound.
If I modify the OLP, I think I'd probably go for single volume and tone
controls, and substitute the extra pot for a switch, like in the Corvette.
With that switch I would choose between coils in series, in parallel, or
just the one coil closest to the bridge (the "sharpest" sounding one).
Jose
Jose de las Heras
"js" <not...@nothing.com> wrote in message
news:gsr4kf$h96$1...@news.motzarella.org...
> you could probably get a Duncan pre in there, and for sure an Aguillar.
it's not just the size of the preamp, which I agree, there are some quite
small. But it needs space for the battery too.
I guess that by using stacked controls I can free the routing for one pot...
You see, if they made amps so that they would power active basses through
the cable as standard... whoa! I got a strong deja-vu feeling, what was
that? ;-)
Jose
Jose de las Heras
"Derek Tearne" <de...@url.co.nz> wrote in message
news:1iyoodo.1pxr6m4102kg7hN%de...@url.co.nz...
> Jose de las Heras <jos...@tiscali.co.uk> wrote:
>
>> I had thought I could make it active, but the control cavity is tiny and
>> I'm
>> not about to do major surgery here... still, probably a good idea to keep
>> it
>> simple. If I keep it (very likely) it's going to be a backup bass so the
>> simpler teh better, less things to go wrong.
>
> The electronics cavity in the active OLP basses isn't exactly huge
> either.
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/drtearne/3469325271
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/drtearne/3470136696
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/drtearne/3469324143
>
> You really don't need that much room for some of these pre-amps. It's a
> shame the pre-amps aren't available as an after market item. I suspect
> there is probably a warehouse full of them somewhere now that OLP basses
> are no longer being made.
That cavity is HUGE compared to that in the passive OLP. The cavity is just
a round route where the pot will sit, 4 of those, with a narrower corridor
between them.
I need to re-spray that tone control, so I'll do it now and take a picture:
http://www.mcnach.com/MISC/DSCF2719.jpg
Jose
JGN
>
> "JGN" <j.ago...@gmaiil.com.ru> wrote in message
> news:4df7c6-...@despair.pu239.ru...
>> Jose de las Heras <jos...@tiscali.co.uk> wrote:
>>> A lot of bass for little money, it really is a good bass. I know it's
>>> substantially different from a Stingray (passive instead of active) but
>>> I've
>>> never played a Stingray and I really like this one. I thought the
>>> volume-volume-tone configuration was odd and pointless, until I tried it.
>>> Interesting take.
>>
>> I thought it was "nice", but ultimately pointless for the idea I have of
>> the
>> OLP, which is "big fat humbucker" - I'd rewire the humbucker in series,
>> volume-tone and a free pot just for show, no investment other than solder
>> and
>> ten minutes of your time :)
>
> My Warwick Corvette $$ has two big fat MM-style humbuckers, with a switch
> for each pickup to choose between coils in series/parallel and a single
> coil. I actually use the parallel position a lot, so I guess I already like
> that sound.
>
> If I modify the OLP, I think I'd probably go for single volume and tone
> controls, and substitute the extra pot for a switch, like in the Corvette.
> With that switch I would choose between coils in series, in parallel, or
> just the one coil closest to the bridge (the "sharpest" sounding one).
That would be cool, too - I like my proposal because it only takes you a bit
of solder and a few minutes to try :)
:
Benj
> If I modify the OLP, I think I'd probably go for single volume and tone
> controls, and substitute the extra pot for a switch, like in the Corvette.
> With that switch I would choose between coils in series, in parallel, or
> just the one coil closest to the bridge (the "sharpest" sounding one).
Yes, this is the mod I usually do to all my cheapo basses...er
wait...did it to my Fender 5 string too! Which is the replace one
volume of the two vol system with a rotary switch (usually use a
different "pointy" knob too so you can do it by "feel") The usuall
wiring is Neck only, both series, both parallel, and bridge only. I"m
not sure how much difference there's be between the two coils on an
OLP but probably enough as they used two volume controls.
Let me say also that when I got my OLP they had REAL (like grand +)
Stingrays at GC. I got to compare. If you set the Stingrays "flat" on
EQ the OLP was indistinguishable from the Stingray. But the "real"
stingray EQ was VERY strong and you could really do some boosting and
cutting that really gave a huge range of tone. It was especially
effective if you went towards the "brighter" side of things. Which is
why one day I'd like to fork over for a preamp for my OLP. But passive
it's still very nice! Especially for the cash!
I've been thinking that the Audere module might be squeezed in.
http://www.audereaudio.com/3ZB.htm
And I noticed that yours has killer top wood just like mine does too!
It's amazing that a bass that used to sell this low, sounds and plays
this good and has wood with a look like that as well. Simply killer.
js
route a cavity for a 9v battery or for a battery box on the back, and drill
a connecting hole to the front cavity. You can even buy a battery box
template from stew mac.
I'm getting ready to do the same thing on a MIM P Bass that I'm dropping an
Active Duncan split into.
"Jose de las Heras" <jos...@tiscali.co.uk> wrote in message
news:75gaedF...@mid.individual.net...
Jose de las Heras
> Not to be jerky, but if you've got a router, it's pretty easy to either
> route a cavity for a 9v battery or for a battery box on the back, and
> drill
> a connecting hole to the front cavity. You can even buy a battery box
> template from stew mac.
>
> I'm getting ready to do the same thing on a MIM P Bass that I'm dropping
> an
> Active Duncan split into.
>
> "Jose de las Heras" <jos...@tiscali.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:75gaedF...@mid.individual.net...
>>
>> "js" <not...@nothing.com> wrote in message
>> news:gsr4kf$h96$1...@news.motzarella.org...
>> > you could probably get a Duncan pre in there, and for sure an Aguillar.
>>
>> it's not just the size of the preamp, which I agree, there are some quite
>> small. But it needs space for the battery too.
>> I guess that by using stacked controls I can free the routing for one
> pot...
>>
>> You see, if they made amps so that they would power active basses through
>> the cable as standard... whoa! I got a strong deja-vu feeling, what was
>> that? ;-)
>>
>> Jose
Not "jerky" at all, I'm always open to suggestions... as long as people
don't get offended when I do something else :-)
I do not have a router... but it's something I now and again think may be a
good thing to buy. Sure, it is not going to see a lot of action, but for a
self-confessed tinkerer like me it's probably a good thing to have handy. I
do minor work with a chisel, and anything else I try to avoid... or I end up
taking it to a luthier I know who can do the simple things I need very
quick, very easily, very well, and charges me little... But for instance,
right now I have a bass I love (a VERY cheap Wesley Monarch) in bits because
I need some minor routing:
http://www.mcnach.com/gearpics/Guitars/bass/WesleyMonarch/Monarch_full.jpg
I replaced the pickups one day, and I have a 3-band preamp for it. I
modified the wiring to allow me to switch active/passive and added stacked
pots to avoid making another hole. the cavity was large enough and it even
had a recessed bit that can accomodate a battery, so it seemed an easy thing
to do. Except one of the pots, the one with the extra push/pull switch needs
about 2-3mm extra clearance.
"Dear diary: check out prices of routers"
If I get one... the OLP is going under the knife!
mwaha ha ha!!!
Jose
--
www.mcnach.com
www.myspace.com/purplenoise68
-
Current favourite guitar: Fender 'Sambora' Stratocaster
Current favourite bass: OLP MM2 (Stingray)
Jose de las Heras
"Benj" <bja...@iwaynet.net> wrote in message
news:b3cb22be-1515-4380...@z8g2000prd.googlegroups.com...
Everytime I find a good cheap bass/guitar I transport myself for a minute
back to when I started having an interest in these instruments and how crap
the cheap stuff was (early 80s).
That Audereaudio stuff looks nice. Not pricey, and very configureable.
4-band EQ, eh?
Hmmm, that router looks increasingly appealing to me.
And before anyone says "then get an active one to start with" I will add
that I just have fun doing this sort of thing. It's not just the end result,
but the process. :-)
Actually, are there any OLP active basses apart from that signature one
(Tony Levin?)? I thought one thing that MusicMan kept to themselves was
making active basses, so that the OLP looked like them but they didn't sound
like them because the electronics were different. Am I wrong?
Jose
--
www.mcnach.com
www.myspace.com/purplenoise68
-
Current favourite guitar: Fender 'Sambora' Stratocaster
Current favourite bass: OLP MM2 (Stingray)
Nil
> Not to be jerky, but if you've got a router, it's pretty easy to
> either route a cavity for a 9v battery or for a battery box on the
> back, and drill a connecting hole to the front cavity. You can
> even buy a battery box template from stew mac.
Can a router cut a clean hole without severely chipping and ruining the
finish around it?
RichL
A routed edge may be a bit ragged, so if you're going to cut a new hole
rather than deepen an existing one, you may need to allow for a
perimeter that you'll cut cleanly with a sharp chisel.
Nil
alt.guitar.bass:
> A routed edge may be a bit ragged, so if you're going to cut a new
> hole rather than deepen an existing one, you may need to allow for
> a perimeter that you'll cut cleanly with a sharp chisel.
That makes sense. So it would be most practical if the edge were
covered by a pickguard or something.
I was thinking about the possibility of routing a battery compartment
into my Strat (for the EMG pickups) and also about enlarging the
tremolo compartment (to match that of my Strat Plus.) I'm sure it will
go no farther than the thinking stage.
Benj
> Not to be jerky, but if you've got a router, it's pretty easy to either
> route a cavity for a 9v battery or for a battery box on the back, and drill
> a connecting hole to the front cavity. You can even buy a battery box
> template from stew mac.
>
> I'm getting ready to do the same thing on a MIM P Bass that I'm dropping an
> Active Duncan split into.
Yeah, the Battery Holders from Carvin are especially nice. Just need
to route a rectangular hole in the bass and gorilla glue it in place.
The flange covers a multitude of sins. And from then on you can
replace batteries with a flip of the lid instead of a big plate-
unscrewing hassle. I love 'em. Other places have them too. I see Stew-
Mac even has them in dual versions for 18 volts.
Jose de las Heras
"Nil" <redn...@REMOVETHIScomcast.net> wrote in message
news:Xns9BF97625...@130.133.1.4...
In the OLP, I thought of routing under the pickguard for the preamp +
batteries. It saves making a back cover, but it does involve enlarging the
existing channel from the pickup to the control cavity, and getting longer
cables for the preamp.
Jose
--
www.mcnach.com
www.myspace.com/purplenoise68
-
Current favourite guitar: Fender 'Sambora' Stratocaster
Current favourite bass: OLP MM2 (Stingray)
js
also depends on the type of wood underneath, and the type of finish.
You need to go slow too. Either make your passes 1/8-1/4" at a time, or
predrill the cavity to depth with a Forstner or spade drill bit, and use the
router to clean up the cavity.
"Nil" <redn...@REMOVETHIScomcast.net> wrote in message
news:Xns9BF961A6...@130.133.1.4...