Best Speaker(s) for Cleans (MusicMan HD130 Reverb)
adam79
mostly for cleans. I was thinking about buying a 2x12 or 4x12 cab with
Greenbacks. I also found a 70's 1960b Marshall cab that's been altered
to take 2x10s and 2x15. I thought this might be a good choice, as the
HD130 combos either have 1x15 or 4x10s (I think). Any advice would be
appreciated. Hope everyone had a Merry Christmas.
Thanks,
-Adam
Bruce Morgen
Good ones are very pricey,
but the JBL D series is and
very likely will remain the
King of Klean forever.
Rich Koerner (who knows his
JBLs) says use Ds for 15-
and 12-inchers but go for
Ks for 10-inchers. I like
the M series from back in
the '80s myself, and when
they turn up they're quite
reasonably priced compared
to the older JBLs.
Squier
I'd like to add in that EV12L's are also good 'clean' type speakers.
And they can take a ton of watts and stay tight and clean.
It's like using a PA speaker in your guitar cab.
Many amp makers have used the EV12L speaker in their combos and cabs.
They weigh a lot though! I think each speaker weighs about 20 lbs (9 Kg).
to the OP - greenbacks are the antithesis of 'clean' speakers.
greenbacks get you tones that are very speaker driven.
greenbacks are all about that ability to get gritty singing cleans
to all out crunchy breakup.
adam79
>> Bruce Morgen <edi...@juno.com> wrote:
>>
>> Good ones are very pricey,
>> but the JBL D series is and
>> very likely will remain the
>> King of Klean forever.
>> Rich Koerner (who knows his
>> JBLs) says use Ds for 15-
>> and 12-inchers but go for
>> Ks for 10-inchers. I like
>> the M series from back in
>> the '80s myself, and when
>> they turn up they're quite
>> reasonably priced compared
>> to the older JBLs.
I have a pair of 15" JBL M Series PA speakers; they sound killer.
>
>
> I'd like to add in that EV12L's are also good 'clean' type speakers.
> And they can take a ton of watts and stay tight and clean.
> It's like using a PA speaker in your guitar cab.
> Many amp makers have used the EV12L speaker in their combos and cabs.
> They weigh a lot though! I think each speaker weighs about 20 lbs (9 Kg).
>
> to the OP - greenbacks are the antithesis of 'clean' speakers.
> greenbacks get you tones that are very speaker driven.
> greenbacks are all about that ability to get gritty singing cleans
> to all out crunchy breakup.
So you're saying that Greenbacks would be your last choice?
I know someone with a 412 Peavey cabinet from the 70s that has two
WeberVST and two Jensen Kustom speakers. Anyone familiar with these two
brands? I was looking on the internet for some reviews, but found
nothing. Any opinions on this cab? Not just for cleans, but overdriven
n' distortion. I'd be pairing it up with my current cab, the 1960a w/
G12-65s. I know the best way for me to judge it is to play it myself,
but the seller lives 90 minutes away, and I'm not sure if it's worth the
gas money.
Thanks,
-Adam
Jim
If I'm not mistaken, Rich prefers K 120 for 12's, with original cones.
Jim
EVM 12L is a great speaker, I have several. Another good choice is the
Altec 417. Talk about BITE in a Twin Reverb!
Jim
Adam,
When I think "clean speaker," the greenback is towards the bottom of th
list. The greenback is great for vintage cranked Marshall distortion.
Think early Ramones, for example.
>
> I know someone with a 412 Peavey cabinet from the 70s that has two
> WeberVST
Which? There are many. I have a pair of Ted's (RIP) AlNiCo Blue Dogs
that sound great if you like the crangy midrange vox tones.
> and two Jensen Kustom speakers. Anyone familiar with these two
> brands?
You'll need model numbers. "Jensen" are likely to be Italian or even
Chinese if newer.
adam79
>
>>
>> I know someone with a 412 Peavey cabinet from the 70s that has two
>> WeberVST
>
> Which? There are many. I have a pair of Ted's (RIP) AlNiCo Blue Dogs
> that sound great if you like the crangy midrange vox tones.
>
>
>> and two Jensen Kustom speakers. Anyone familiar with these two brands?
>
> You'll need model numbers. "Jensen" are likely to be Italian or even
> Chinese if newer.
>
He said that the Jensens that were pulled from a Kustom cab have "220"
as the manufacturer code. The WeberVSTs have "1279" written on them.
Does this help, or is more info needed? This Peavey cab is a straight
412 from the '70s. I'm assuming it has superior wood due to the age. The
asking price is $110, w/ the speakers. I figure that I might be able to
get $100 for the 4 speakers that are currently in there.
The EVM 12Ls are way too expensive; I'm not willing to pay $200/per
speaker. How much do the JBL and Altecs that were mentioned go for? I'm
probably gonna have the best luck with just buying a used cab that
already has speakers loaded in.
I'll probably just end up rewiring my current cab to 4ohms, so I can use
it with both of my cabs. That, or buy a 212, so when I play live I don't
have to lug a 412 around. I could always just use one of my JBL 15" PA
speakers for shows. They're definitely loud enough (250watts each).
Thanks for all the help,
-Adam
Squier
Adam - I can you another suggestion for a huge sounding fat clean speaker
that won't break up until the point where everyone is deaf.
It was loosely modeled on the EVM 12L and it's made by Eminence.
It's part of the Eminence "Patriot" series of speakers.
The speaker is the 'Swamp Thang' and it's rated for 150 watts although
it's also an efficient speaker and sounds good with at least 5 watts
being pumped into it. Put about 20 or more watts into and it really
starts to open up and sounds excellent.
It's just a slighty warmer sounding EVM 12L type of speaker and is
very affordable. I had a 2x12 cab at one time loaded with Swamp Thangs
and it was a great cab. Huge sounding. The speakers also handle gain
and overdrive very well. With the efficient design you'll have more
than enough volume with a 2x12 of these to play anywhere. (providing
you have at least a 30 watt amp to drive the 2x12 to nice big open tones).
ok. that's my 2 cents of suggestion.
adam79
>
> Adam - I can you another suggestion for a huge sounding fat clean speaker
> that won't break up until the point where everyone is deaf.
> It was loosely modeled on the EVM 12L and it's made by Eminence.
> It's part of the Eminence "Patriot" series of speakers.
> The speaker is the 'Swamp Thang' and it's rated for 150 watts although
> it's also an efficient speaker and sounds good with at least 5 watts
> being pumped into it. Put about 20 or more watts into and it really
> starts to open up and sounds excellent.
> It's just a slighty warmer sounding EVM 12L type of speaker and is
> very affordable. I had a 2x12 cab at one time loaded with Swamp Thangs
> and it was a great cab. Huge sounding. The speakers also handle gain
> and overdrive very well. With the efficient design you'll have more
> than enough volume with a 2x12 of these to play anywhere. (providing
> you have at least a 30 watt amp to drive the 2x12 to nice big open tones).
>
> ok. that's my 2 cents of suggestion.
I've heard of them, but never heard them. I'll check them out on the
Eminence website. I'm thinking about buying a Gallien-Krueger 212GS. I
found a seller whose has one from either '89 or '90. Does anyone know
what type of speakers these were loaded with back then? I believe the
new ones have G12M-70s.
Thanks for the advice,
-Adam
Jim
What matters in the end is how it sounds to you. But you've spent some
real money on amps. Remember that tone is like a chain, and a chain
always breaks at the weakest link.
adam79
>
> What matters in the end is how it sounds to you. But you've spent some
> real money on amps. Remember that tone is like a chain, and a chain
> always breaks at the weakest link.
>
I'm back down to my two mainstays; the Peavey VTM-120 and Music Man
HD130 Reverb. I returned the Dual Rectifier after I A/B'd it with the
VTM-120, and got identical tones. I'm perfectly happy with those two..
I'm becoming fonder of the HD130 everyday now. There are still a couple
Marshall and Fender amps I want to try out, but they aren't at any of
the local shops. The Boston Guitar Center has a JTM45 Reissue, but it's
broken, so I have to wait for them to fix it before I can test drive it.
What's the difference between the JTM45 and JTM45/100?
In terms of my cabinet issue, I'm not sure If I should get another 16ohm
cab and run a full stack, buy a separate cab for each amp, or rewire my
cab to 4 ohms, so I can play the HD130 through it; I'm currently running
it through my roommates crappy cab.
How do the Eminence Legend GB12s compare to the Greenbacks (G12M-25)?
All the reviews I've read are glowing. The only problem I would have
with either of these speakers would be that they only give out 100 watts
in a 412, and my amps are 120 and 130 watts. After listening to that
speaker comparison on youtube that you posted in a different thread, I
like the Vintage 30s.
I'm looking for a speaker that excels at both clean and dirty tones, now
that the MM is my go to amp for both tones. However the Peavey is much
HEAVIER, but isn't as warm.
Happy New Year,
-Adam
jh
> Jim wrote:
>>
>> What matters in the end is how it sounds to you. But you've spent
>> some real money on amps. Remember that tone is like a chain, and a
>> chain always breaks at the weakest link.
>>
>
> I'm back down to my two mainstays; the Peavey VTM-120 and Music Man
> HD130 Reverb. I returned the Dual Rectifier after I A/B'd it with the
> VTM-120, and got identical tones. I'm perfectly happy with those two..
> I'm becoming fonder of the HD130 everyday now. There are still a couple
> Marshall and Fender amps I want to try out, but they aren't at any of
> the local shops. The Boston Guitar Center has a JTM45 Reissue, but it's
> broken, so I have to wait for them to fix it before I can test drive it.
> What's the difference between the JTM45 and JTM45/100?
"/100"???
Jokes aside, the /100 is basically the same amp with a dual outputstage,
beefier Voltages and mucho more muscles. Might be nice to tear down a
house. Warm, beefy Cleeean, until breakup, then "the cream" might show
up, depending of your playing, but that's the basic sound. More "gritty"
than "edgy"
I have problems imaginating, where i could use this unit, although i'd
like to own one.
A super bass might head into the same direction, the EL34s adding a bit
of "edge" - when they reach saturation level.
We are talking about *loud*
>
> In terms of my cabinet issue, I'm not sure If I should get another 16ohm
> cab and run a full stack, buy a separate cab for each amp, or rewire my
> cab to 4 ohms, so I can play the HD130 through it; I'm currently running
> it through my roommates crappy cab.
>
> How do the Eminence Legend GB12s compare to the Greenbacks (G12M-25)?
> All the reviews I've read are glowing. The only problem I would have
> with either of these speakers would be that they only give out 100 watts
> in a 412, and my amps are 120 and 130 watts.
AFAIK the GB12 is a 50W speaker
regards
Jochen
adam79
>
> EVM 12L is a great speaker, I have several.
I lucked out and just bought a pair of EVM12L drivers for super cheap.
Can someone point me in the direction of a place that sells cones and
woofers?
Thanks,
-Adam
Stephen Cowell
"adam79" <ada...@toast.net> wrote in message
news:XpOdnRdcK6SaZ93W...@posted.toastnet...
Er, uh... let me guess... you want to put together
a speaker! So you need a 'driver', a 'cone', and
a 'woofer'!?
Aside from Baskin-Robbins or your local animal
shelter, I can't recommend anything to help you
just yet. Perhaps you can help *us* by defining
what you actually think these things mean:
1.) driver
2.) cone
3.) woofer
Enquiring minds, etc.
__
Steve
.
sam booka
amongst other things, said, "Is this on?"
news:hhqvi9$und$1...@news.eternal-september.org:
I think he may be looking for Santon Audio in Markham Ontario. Best place
around for repaired and rebuilt 18's...
http://stores.ebay.com/Santon-Audio-Limited
I see he has some horns there too.
--
All the perplexities, confusion, and distress in America arise,
not from defects in their Constitution or confederation, not
from want of honor or virtue, so much as from downright ignorance
of the nature of coin, credit, and circulation,
John Adams
adam79
I think I just answered my own question with this link:
http://www.soundspeakerrepair.com/speaker-parts-cp/EVM-12L/EV-Kits/Electro+Voice+Kits/.
Anyone ever bought anything from this place?
Thanks,
-Adam
Stephen Cowell
sam booka
amongst other things, said, "Is this on?"
If he does get one I hope it's from Wendy Malick and Sarah McLaughlin.
That commercial is starting to grate on me. :p
adam79
>>
>> I think I just answered my own question with this link:
>> http://www.soundspeakerrepair.com/speaker-parts-cp/EVM-12L/EV-Kits/Electro+Voice+Kits/.
>> Anyone ever bought anything from this place?
>
> Where's the woofer? Don't you need a woofer?
> __
> Steve
> .
>
Oh yeah, I didn't even notice the absence of the woofer.. anyways, I've
heard horror stories about certain online stores, which is why I was
asking if anyone had bought something from this store without incident.
Also, any recommendations on where I can buy a woofer for the EVM12L?
Thanks,
-Adam
Stephen Cowell
"adam79" <ada...@toast.net> wrote
> Stephen Cowell wrote:
>>>
>>> I think I just answered my own question with this link:
>>> http://www.soundspeakerrepair.com/speaker-parts-cp/EVM-12L/EV-Kits/Electro+Voice+Kits/.
>>> Anyone ever bought anything from this place?
>>
>> Where's the woofer? Don't you need a woofer?
>>
>
> heard horror stories about certain online stores, which is why I was
> asking if anyone had bought something from this store without incident.
> Also, any recommendations on where I can buy a woofer for the EVM12L?
First, you tell us what you think a woofer is!
__
Steve
.
adam79
>
> First, you tell us what you think a woofer is!
>
I always thought that a woofer was the material around the driver, and
the cone was the round thing in the middle.. however, I was wrong.. and
being wrong about anything in this newsgroup is grounds for a death
sentence! I now know that the EVM 12L is a driver, woofer, low frequency
transducer, and a speaker. The cone is what I thought the woofer was,
and the voice coil is what I thought the cone was.. Do I have it right now?
Now I just need to know how I can test the driver to make sure it is in
working order.
Thanks,
-Adam
adam79
the voice coil is what I thought the cone was..
Replace voice coil with diaphragm!
jh
So now let us know *what* you got...
1) A complete speaker - frame, cone, dustcap, voice coil - in one piece
and hopefully in working order?
2) Or a frame that has to be reconed?
If 2) find someone who can recone them
If 1)
Measure the DC resistance. If it's about 6-7 ohms (assuming it's an 8ohm
speaker) then
put it int o a cabinet connect it and play it.
If it sounds right, without any scratching noises or other audible and
strange kinds of distortions, it's most propably ok.
Adam your skin is a bit thin. But believe me, it was simply not
understandable *what* you really have in your hands. Really
HTH
Jochen
adam79
>
> So now let us know *what* you got...
>
> 1) A complete speaker - frame, cone, dustcap, voice coil - in one piece
> and hopefully in working order?
>
> 2) Or a frame that has to be reconed?
>
> If 2) find someone who can recone them
>
> If 1)
> Measure the DC resistance. If it's about 6-7 ohms (assuming it's an 8ohm
> speaker) then
> put it int o a cabinet connect it and play it.
> If it sounds right, without any scratching noises or other audible and
> strange kinds of distortions, it's most propably ok.
>
> Adam your skin is a bit thin. But believe me, it was simply not
> understandable *what* you really have in your hands. Really
>
It was written in jest; I'm the first one to poke fun at myself! Here's
a picture of what I'm buying..
http://members.toast.net/adam79/EVM12L.jpg. They are only $25, so I'm
gonna take my chances on whether they work or not (i.e. buy them without
testing them first.. I original thought they were just the driver, but
looking at the picture again, it appears to have the cone. It's worth
the risk @ $25 if the two speakers end up working.
Thanks for the help,
-Adam
Bruce Morgen
Looks like a complete (and
monstrously heavy) speaker
to me from the back -- now
let's check out the front.
adam79
> Looks like a complete (and
> monstrously heavy) speaker
> to me from the back -- now
> let's check out the front.
>
That's the only picture I got. The deal also comes with a pair of Jensen
C12Ks; I've never heard of them. All I know is that the speakers are
"blown."
Stephen Cowell
"adam79" <ada...@toast.net> wrote
1.) The voice coil must not rub... you can *gently* push the
cone back and forth from the front, with fingers spread, and
listen for rubbing sounds. It should be totally silent. I often
do the 6v lantern battery test... a big lantern battery will really
make the cone jump, and experience tells me whether the thump
I'm hearing is clean (good) or crunchy/noisy (bad). Don't
leave the battery connected for more than a half-second, both
to save juice, and to protect the speaker (DC heats up voice
coils somthing fierce)... although an EV12L should be able
to take that kind of abuse no problem.
2.) The voice coil must have continuity... this is where an
ohmmeter comes in handy (remember, $5 at Harbor Freight!).
As mentioned, it should read around 80% of nominal ohms.
3.) No test like playing through them... they can pass all these,
and still have problems. If they sound great with a Twin Reverb
dimed, then they're the real thing. Don't expect them to sound
good without being mounted in a cabinet, or at least on a baffle
board.
__
Steve
.
adam79
thing works. I'm gonna buy that $5 omm reader, it's a good deal, unless
shipping is more than the item.. this one time on ebay I won an auction
for only 99 cents (a shirt). Then the seller tried to charge me $18 for
shipping costs. I quickly canceled my bid!
Thanks again,
-Adam
sam booka
"Is this on?" news:RoOdneYQPJm4Mt7W...@posted.toastnet:
> I always thought that a woofer was the material around the driver, and
> the cone was the round thing in the middle..
What about the dust cover? It's that little dome thing in the middle that
keeps dust away from the voice coil, and would be a "puppy yamulka" for
the big jeezus barking thing, I suppose. :p
BadBits
<stephenleeNOSPAMcow...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> 2.) The voice coil must have continuity... this is where an
> ohmmeter comes in handy (remember, $5 at Harbor Freight!).
>
Hey, it's Adam; I'm on a friend's account. You refer to the Cen-Tech 7
function multi-meter for $7.99? There are three versions that are
labeled the same, but have different item numbers. I confused as to
which one to buy for testing a speaker.. I assume if the speaker
registers it's working, and if it doesn't, it's broken, right?
I just grabbed the speakers, and the cone is haggared and ripped.
Hopefully that is the only problem. If the speaker works, it should
put out sound, correct?
Thanks,
-Adam
Stephen Cowell
"BadBits" <cvtheb...@gmail.com> wrote
> On Jan 5, 10:37 pm, "Stephen Cowell"
> <stephenleeNOSPAMcow...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > 2.) The voice coil must have continuity... this is where an
> > ohmmeter comes in handy (remember, $5 at Harbor Freight!).
> >
>
> Hey, it's Adam; I'm on a friend's account. You refer to the Cen-Tech 7
> function multi-meter for $7.99? There are three versions that are
> labeled the same, but have different item numbers. I confused as to
> which one to buy for testing a speaker.. I assume if the speaker
> registers it's working, and if it doesn't, it's broken, right?
It has to register between 5 and 7 ohms... something like that.
> I just grabbed the speakers, and the cone is haggared and ripped.
> Hopefully that is the only problem. If the speaker works, it should
> put out sound, correct?
Yes. You could repair the cone with paper and glue... I use
yellow pages and Elmer's glue. It's probably trashed, however.
__
Steve
.
sam booka
amongst other things, said, "Is this on?" news:hi3gg2$h27$1...@news.eternal-
september.org:
You know what I have found that works excellent for even major rips? Tana
Shoe Gloo... that runner repair shzt. I have repaired 6" or even greater
rips in 10-15" speakers with great results, some still in service after 4
years regular use, particularly a 10 from a mid 60's Twin Reverb that
looked like it had a boot put through it. Likewise, a 15" Altec 200 watt
PA speaker that was edge separating over 100 degrees of the
circumference. The adhesive seems to have the right amount of give, yet
toughness when cured, to stand up to the heavy vibration and use.
BadBits
wrote:
> "BadBits" <cvthebadb...@gmail.com> wrote
are those three multimeters the same, or are they all different? they
all have the same description, yet have three different item numbers..
confusing!
in terms of fixing the cone, I'm just gonna buy a kit, if the drivers
work. That $60 recone kit I mentioned in this thread seems like the
best deal, unless u guys know of something better..
Thanks,
-Adam
Greasehorse
Any meter that will read ohms in the 0-50 ohm range will work...just
grab one.
RD Jones
> I'm back down to my two mainstays; the Peavey VTM-120 and Music Man
> HD130 Reverb. I returned the Dual Rectifier after I A/B'd it with the
> VTM-120, and got identical tones. I'm perfectly happy with those two..
> I'm becoming fonder of the HD130 everyday now. ...
>
> In terms of my cabinet issue, I'm not sure If I should get another 16ohm
> cab and run a full stack, buy a separate cab for each amp, or rewire my
> cab to 4 ohms, so I can play the HD130 through it; I'm currently running
> it through my roommates crappy cab.
Please note that on the Music Man amp the speaker jacks are in SERIES.
(as opposed to the Peavey that's most likely parallel)
If you plug in two 16 ohm cabinets (using the 2 jacks on the amp) it
will
present a 32 ohm load to the amp that's expecting either 4 or 8 ohms.
This mismatch is in the "bad" direction and can do harm to the amp,
especially considering the much higher than typical voltages MM uses.
If one of the cabs has a 'slave' jack you can parallel them that way.
When in doubt, measure.
rd
RD Jones
>
> >> EVM 12L is a great speaker, I have several.
The EVM12S is better and the SRO12 is the best.
I have several of each.
My MusicMan RD50 has an SRO in it now and I love it.
On Jan 4, 9:17 am, adam79 <ada...@toast.net> wrote:
> > I lucked out and just bought a pair of EVM12L drivers for super cheap.
> > Can someone point me in the direction of a place that sells cones and
> > woofers?
>
> I think I just answered my own question with this link:http://www.soundspeakerrepair.com/speaker-parts-cp/EVM-12L/EV-Kits/El....
> Anyone ever bought anything from this place?
I'd double check whatever you buy from them.
They're not ElectroVoice parts (which are still available).
The photo showing the difference between the 12L and the 12S
is incorrect. The image of a "12S" is actually a Force12.
The Force and 12S do share the same frame and cone, which is
more shallow than the 12L, but there are other parts that are
different particularly the voicecoil.
There's places that advertise reconing service with factory
original EV parts for $89 including a short warranty period.
Since many of your posts indicate that you don't have a
strong engineering/technical background, my recommendation
to you is that a factory recone by a trained tech with original
parts is THE way to go. In any case make absolutely certain
you are getting the correct "edgewound" flatwire voicecoil.
(i.e. some aftermarket kits and the kit for the Force uses
standard round wire V.C.)
Oh yeah ... when checking the raw structures to verify that
a recone is appropriate make sure the frame doesn't have any
warps, cracks or breaks. The frame should lay flat face down
on a perfectly flat surface with the outer edge showing no air
all the way around. The voicecoil gap should be even all the way
'round. If there's a "pinch" the magnet assembly is junk.
best o' luck
rd
adam79
>
> Please note that on the Music Man amp the speaker jacks are in SERIES.
> (as opposed to the Peavey that's most likely parallel)
> If you plug in two 16 ohm cabinets (using the 2 jacks on the amp) it
> will
> present a 32 ohm load to the amp that's expecting either 4 or 8 ohms.
> This mismatch is in the "bad" direction and can do harm to the amp,
> especially considering the much higher than typical voltages MM uses.
>
> If one of the cabs has a 'slave' jack you can parallel them that way.
> When in doubt, measure.
>
> rd
My Peavey has 5 speaker outs. The first one is 16ohms, 2nd says 8ohm
(2nd 16 ohm cab), and so on. You're saying that if I have two 16ohm
cabs, and plug one into the first 16ohm jack, and the second into the
second jack (which says to plug the 2nd 16ohm cab into), it won't work
properly? That doesn't make sense.. Why would they tell you to plug a
2nd 16ohm cab into the jack, with that specific wording, if it won't
work the way it says?
-Adam
adam79
Thanks for the info. Both drivers look structurely sound. I'll contact
Electrovoice. Hopefully they have a local certified repair shop;
shipping these would not be ideal (they weight a ton)!
RD Jones
> RD Jones wrote:
>
> > Please note that on the Music Man amp the speaker jacks are in SERIES.
> > (as opposed to the Peavey that's most likely parallel)
> > If you plug in two 16 ohm cabinets (using the 2 jacks on the amp) it
> > will
> > present a 32 ohm load to the amp that's expecting either 4 or 8 ohms.
> > This mismatch is in the "bad" direction and can do harm to the amp,
> > especially considering the much higher than typical voltages MM uses.
>
> > If one of the cabs has a 'slave' jack you can parallel them that way.
> > When in doubt, measure.
>
> My Peavey has 5 speaker outs. The first one is 16ohms, 2nd says 8ohm
> (2nd 16 ohm cab), and so on. You're saying that if I have two 16ohm
> cabs, and plug one into the first 16ohm jack, and the second into the
> second jack (which says to plug the 2nd 16ohm cab into), it won't work
> properly? That doesn't make sense.. Why would they tell you to plug a
> 2nd 16ohm cab into the jack, with that specific wording, if it won't
> work the way it says?
I'm not familiar with the speaker jack arrangement on the Peavey.
So if that's the way Peavey says to use it, then that is the info to
follow. I will say that from your description there must be one or
more "switching" jacks being used to set the jack(s) to the correct
tap.
It helps to understand what happens when there's a large mismatch.
A shorted output, on any tap, will reflect that load back to the
tubes.
An open output will reflect the load to the transformer's primary.
Since it's much easier to replace tubes than an output transformer,
you should always avoid an open circuit on the output when the amp
is being driven. Any intentional mismatch should be done in the
direction
of heavier loading rather than too light of a load. Usually one step
mismatch (like a 4ohm speaker on a 8ohm tap, or viceversa) can
be tolerated. Tone may change a some and you'll have a bit less power
but it can played that way on most amps without risk.
However, a 32ohm load on a 4ohm tap is asking for trouble.
The math involved in speaker matching is fairly straightforward.
Get that meter if you are in doubt, fire up the calculator, and follow
the indications on the amp or in the manual for the wiring scheme.
rd
jh
Hi Rd,
according to the peavey manual there is indeed a switching matrix that
selects the correct transformer tap. Wouldn't have thought it.
regards
Jochen
http://www.retrevo.com/support/Peavey-VTM-120-Amps-manual/id/23119bh045/t/2/
RD Jones
Yeah, and the switching part of the jack is hidden from view,
so it's not obvious what it's doing or that it's even there.
rd
adam79
>
> There's places that advertise reconing service with factory
> original EV parts for $89 including a short warranty period.
There's a local store, New England Speaker, that gave me a quote of $95
per speaker (for re-coning). A local tech that I bring all my gear to
recommended them to me. Do you have a link to any of these places that
have the original factory parts? I forgot to ask the guy at New England
Speaker if he'd be using EV parts, or after-market material.
Thanks,
-Adam
RD Jones
I don't know if that's the one or not.
I stumbled across something somewhere when I was searching for
EV tweeter repair. Sorry I don't have the exact link now.
You might try looking at the listings at:
http://www.recone.com/reconers.htm
I do know that reconing has gotten more expensive compared to
the cost of new drivers since I was doing it years ago.
rd
adam79
>
> I don't know if that's the one or not.
> I stumbled across something somewhere when I was searching for
> EV tweeter repair. Sorry I don't have the exact link now.
>
> You might try looking at the listings at:
>
> http://www.recone.com/reconers.htm
>
> I do know that reconing has gotten more expensive compared to
> the cost of new drivers since I was doing it years ago.
>
> rd
I just called New England Speaker, and they said that they use Electro
Voice parts. The tech said that after-market parts would be cheaper, but
$95 per speaker sounds fair for a re-coning with EV parts. I found a
Fender 2x12 cab w/ Fender speakers for $100. It's not one of those big
old ones, it's rectangular, similar to the Marshall 1936 cab. I'm not
sure of the wattage for the Fender speakers; my amps are 120 and 130
watts. If the cabinet turns out to be 100 watts, would my amps blow out
the speakers fairly quickly?
Thanks for all the help,
-Adam
Les Cargill
> RD Jones wrote:
>>
>> I don't know if that's the one or not.
>> I stumbled across something somewhere when I was searching for
>> EV tweeter repair. Sorry I don't have the exact link now.
>>
>> You might try looking at the listings at:
>>
>> http://www.recone.com/reconers.htm
>>
>> I do know that reconing has gotten more expensive compared to
>> the cost of new drivers since I was doing it years ago.
>>
>> rd
>
> I just called New England Speaker, and they said that they use Electro
> Voice parts. The tech said that after-market parts would be cheaper, but
> $95 per speaker sounds fair for a re-coning with EV parts. I found a
> Fender 2x12 cab w/ Fender speakers for $100. It's not one of those big
> old ones, it's rectangular, similar to the Marshall 1936 cab.
So it is basically a Bassman or Bandmaster cab?
> I'm not
> sure of the wattage for the Fender speakers; my amps are 120 and 130
> watts. If the cabinet turns out to be 100 watts, would my amps blow out
> the speakers fairly quickly?
>
I expect you really need a 4X12. You could also possibly put a pair
of celestion g12t75 in.
> Thanks for all the help,
> -Adam
--
Les Cargill
adam79
> So it is basically a Bassman or Bandmaster cab?
>
>> I'm not sure of the wattage for the Fender speakers; my amps are 120
>> and 130 watts. If the cabinet turns out to be 100 watts, would my amps
>> blow out the speakers fairly quickly?
>>
>
> I expect you really need a 4X12. You could also possibly put a pair
> of celestion g12t75 in.
It actually turned out to be a home-made 212 cab with a Fender logo
glued on, but it sounds great and is over 130 watts. It was well worth
the $100. I already have a 412 that sounds great.. an '80s Marshall
1960a w/ Celestion G12-65s. I just wanted a smaller cab for shows.
Everything worked out perfectly!