Details, details - building a cab
HotM...@comcast.net
I'm new to this group; I often read and occasionally post to
alt.guitar.beginner. This seems like more the forum for my current
question.
I'm trying to get moving on a 1x12 speaker cab project that I started
thinking through some time ago; I want to keep this fairly basic, but
I keep wondering about these little details, and am trying to get some
opinions; here goes:
- Baffle mounting - I see there are fixed and floating baffles - it
seems that a lot of designs attach cleats to the sides (left and
right) of the cab, and then attach the baffle with wood screws. I
recall seeing something that claimed fixed baffles (e.g., dadoed into
the sides and glued in) sound bad. But, with floating baffles, don't
you a) have an automatic air leak around the top and bottom and b) an
opportunity to develop weird noises if the baffle rubs against the
cabinet or vibrates against the cleats?
- Speaker mounting - front or back; if front, do you rabbet the front
of the cutout to kind of make the speaker frame flush?
- Wiring - do you solder to the speaker terminals, or use lugs (and
don't those tend to fall off)?
- What kind of 1/4" jack do you use for the speaker cable - all the
ones I've seen sold (whether Radio Shack or the music stores) look
kind of flimsy?
I'll probably think of more.
Thanks for your ideas!
Bill
mykey
almost any speaker manufacturer will provide you with speaker
cabinet plans for free. The most efficient design is a ported cabinet,
with a closed back...however an open back is lighter and will not
have as good a bass response as a ported enclosure.
also you can make a sealed cabinet with no port but you will
loose some efficiency.
no you do not want a floating baffle, use a solid baffle board
covering the entire front of the cabinet.
build it out of gap less void less aircraft grade birch plywood,
3/4" is good
you will need a switchcraft 1/4" jack, not radio shack.
you can mount the jack on a les paul jack plate which costs about
$3.
you will need to buy that at a music store or an electronics supply.
the switchcraft jack is metal and heavy duty.
that jack is the standard equipment.
or use a Marshall jack which is plastic but very durable.
recommend an EVM or EVX speaker which is pricey, but
well worth it. EV will give you plans for free.
a cast frame speaker is better than a stamped frame but also
weighs more.
On good speakers there are push terminals to insert the wire,
on other speakers you will solder it.
yes you can make the frame flush and use T nuts to install
the speaker. Thats the way to go, but does not have to be
flush.
then a waffle grill from a car audio supply or a cloth grill.
you will get a million opinions on speaker cab design here
at AGA.but don't let that throw you off. go for it.
mykey
Dave Curtis
<mykeym...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>recommend an EVM or EVX speaker which is pricey, but
>well worth it.
What's the freq response of that EVX, mikey?
(hint: they sound real muddy with guitar or bass)
HotM...@comcast.net
> whoops forgot to give you the links:http://www.penn-elcom.com/Catalogue/Hardware.asphttp://www.penn-elcom.com/Welcome.asphttp://www.electrovoice.com/products/410.htmlhttp://www.switchcraft.com/
Thanks for all the pointers, everyone!
mykey
> On Thu, 6 Mar 2008 19:28:31 -0800 (PST), mykey
>
> >recommend an EVM or EVX speaker which is pricey, but
> >well worth it.
>
> What's the freq response of that EVX, mikey?
>
> (hint: they sound real muddy with guitar or bass)
since I have played guitar for over 35 years
I can assure you that the Electrovoice guitar
speakers are the finest in the world.
the response depends heavily on the cabinet design.
however the electrovoice website has all the
technical data and cabinet plans you need.
And no, they do not sound muddy.
Dave Curtis
<mykeym...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>On Mar 7, 3:26 am, Dave Curtis <dbaudiot...@roderunner.com> wrote:
>> On Thu, 6 Mar 2008 19:28:31 -0800 (PST), mykey
>>
>> <mykeymyke...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>> >recommend an EVM or EVX speaker which is pricey, but
>> >well worth it.
>>
>> What's the freq response of that EVX, mikey?
>>
>> (hint: they sound real muddy with guitar or bass)
>
>since I have played guitar for over 35 years
IDGAFF how long you've played. The EVX ain't a MI speaker.
>I can assure you that the Electrovoice guitar
>speakers are the finest in the world.
Did I say they weren't?
>the response depends heavily on the cabinet design.
>however the electrovoice website has all the
>technical data and cabinet plans you need.
Clue: If the speaker *won't do* 5K, cabinet design ain't gonna help.
Scroll down.
>And no, they do not sound muddy.
In addition to reading comprehension you also have a hearing problem.
I see I'll have to do this for you *again*.
From the EVX 155 spec sheet:
"The usable frequency response shall
be 30 Hz to 1,800 Hz"
http://img3.musiciansfriend.com/dbase/pdf/man/m_660113.pdf
It's listed here under "Low Frequency Drivers":
http://www.electrovoice.com/tech-library.php?pt=3
(BTW, that's a 15" speaker; they apparently don't make an EVX 12", and
the OP was asking about 12" speakers, in case you skimmed over that
part)
I have an EVX 155 and have *told you before* they sound muddy with
guitar (or bass, FTM). They're primary use is sound reinforecement,
not musical instrument. Notice I didn't say that about the EVM? I
have an EVM 15L that I reconed @ 400W and it sounds *great* for guitar
(or bass, FTM). Did you get it that time?? The EVX sucks for guitar.
A CLASSIC case of the unemployed fire extinguisher salesman "mykey"
not knowing WTF he's typing about (which is quite often).
FWIW, the EVM 12L frequency response is 80-7000Hz.
-DC
Jim
> Hi all,
>
> I'm new to this group; I often read and occasionally post to
> alt.guitar.beginner. This seems like more the forum for my current
> question.
>
> I'm trying to get moving on a 1x12 speaker cab project that I started
> thinking through some time ago; I want to keep this fairly basic, but
> I keep wondering about these little details, and am trying to get some
> opinions; here goes:
>
> - Baffle mounting - I see there are fixed and floating baffles - it
> seems that a lot of designs attach cleats to the sides (left and
> right) of the cab, and then attach the baffle with wood screws. I
> recall seeing something that claimed fixed baffles (e.g., dadoed into
> the sides and glued in) sound bad.
Don't believe everything you read. I see no reason to dado in the
baffle. Cleats are fine. But I say a tight fit is better than "floating."
> But, with floating baffles, don't
> you a) have an automatic air leak around the top and bottom and b) an
> opportunity to develop weird noises if the baffle rubs against the
> cabinet or vibrates against the cleats?
>
> - Speaker mounting - front or back; if front, do you rabbet the front
> of the cutout to kind of make the speaker frame flush?
Rear mounting is easier, no need for a recess. Of course, you don't
HAVE to route the front in your grill cloth is spaced away.
>
> - Wiring - do you solder to the speaker terminals, or use lugs (and
> don't those tend to fall off)?
A tight lug won't vibrate off.
>
> - What kind of 1/4" jack do you use for the speaker cable - all the
> ones I've seen sold (whether Radio Shack or the music stores) look
> kind of flimsy?
Swithcraft makes decent jacks, if you are concerned.
>
> I'll probably think of more.
How's this: Use a high ply hardwood. The more plies the better. I've
used baltic birch, and even a high ply apple for a baffle. Plywood is
lighter than MDF, and MUCH, MUCH stronger than MDF or solid wood
(because solid wood is easier to split).