Help?? With ADA MP-1 Pre amp and Midi controller
Gary
I was wondering if anyone out there could help me with a problem with
my ADA MP1 and the matching midi controler. I believe its an MC-1.
Anyway everything works fine with the controller powered with a
wall-wart power supply. I bought the special controller/midi cable
that has the extra connections to eliminate the wall-wart and get
power from the MP-1 pre amp. Well, I cant get any power to the
controller and cant find any documentation on it so I gave up a while
ago. I just recently started using it again and I still want to get
rid of the external power supply for the midi controller. Is ther some
kind of config I need to do? ADA is gone out of business and no one
else I asked seems to know. I know it works, I've seen it done before.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance
Gary
Joe Breher
"Gary" <gst...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:599f2039.02010...@posting.google.com...
> Hi,
> I was wondering if anyone out there could help me with a problem with
> my ADA MP1 and the matching midi controler. I believe its an MC-1.
> Anyway everything works fine with the controller powered with a
> wall-wart power supply. I bought the special controller/midi cable
> that has the extra connections to eliminate the wall-wart and get
> power from the MP-1 pre amp. Well, I cant get any power to the
> controller and cant find any documentation on it so I gave up a while
I used to use this rig (many moons ago). IIRC, the wall wart that you used
to attach to the MC-1 now has to be plugged into the back of the MP-1.
Assuming everything is in good working order, this should fix your problem.
You don't eliminate the wall wart, it just plugs into the system at a
different place.
Joe
NRA, GOA, JPFO, RMGO, SAF, SAS (auxiliary), CSSA, TRT, '65 Park JTM 45, '67
Super Reverb, '72 Princeton Reverb, '64 Silvertone Twin Twelve 100, '74
Ampeg V2, too many other amps to mention!
DW
You still need to use the wall wart with the 7 pin cable--but instead
of plugging it into the MC-1 footswitch, you plug the tip into the
back of the MP-1--into the jack that says "Phantom Power". The other
end of the wallwart obviously still needs to be plugged in to an
electrical outlet. Hopefully you have a Furman or similar type of
power strip with an open outlet in your rack.
Dwave Tone
Nary a clue. Have you asked over at alt.guitar.effects?
-Dave
DW
You still need to use the wall wart when using the 7 pin midi cable.
Only instead of plugging the wall wart into the foot controller, you
plug it into the "Phantom Power" jack in the back of the MP-1.
Obviously the other end of the wall wart still needs to be plugged
into an electrical outlet. Hopefully you have a power strip in your
rack with an available outlet.
Gary
power supply powers the MC-1 fine when connected to the controller but
when I take it out and plug it into the phantom power jack on the back
I get nothing on the controller dispaly. I have a new hosa 7 pin cable
made for this ADA and I cant for the life of me get it to work. The
jack on the ADA may be fried. The jack says 9 volt ac / dc. I am using
a dc power supply which works direct to the controller. I am going to
dig up an 9volt a/c and try it next. I guess thats the only other
thing I can try.
Any other thoughts?
Thanks Everyone
Gary
"Joe Breher" <joeN...@exaSPAMbyte.com> wrote in message news:<u36u79d...@corp.supernews.com>...
Dan Engling
there. Are you getting voltage and ground through the cable?Is there voltage
and ground at the 7 pin connection on the MP-1? If you answered yes to these
questions,the problem is in the MC-1.
Diagnosis is a process of elimination.Figure out what is working
first.............
Hope this helps..
Dan
Joe Breher
> "Joe Breher" <joeN...@exaSPAMbyte.com> wrote in message
news:<u36u79d...@corp.supernews.com>...
> > "Gary" <gst...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > news:599f2039.02010...@posting.google.com...
> > > Hi,
> > > I was wondering if anyone out there could help me with a problem with
> > > my ADA MP1 and the matching midi controler. I believe its an MC-1.
> > > Anyway everything works fine with the controller powered with a
> > > wall-wart power supply. I bought the special controller/midi cable
> > > that has the extra connections to eliminate the wall-wart and get
> > > power from the MP-1 pre amp. Well, I cant get any power to the
> > > controller and cant find any documentation on it so I gave up a while
> >
> > I used to use this rig (many moons ago). IIRC, the wall wart that you
used
> > to attach to the MC-1 now has to be plugged into the back of the MP-1.
> > Assuming everything is in good working order, this should fix your
problem.
> > You don't eliminate the wall wart, it just plugs into the system at a
> > different place.
> Thanks for all the input, but Ive tried this already.
>
> Any other thoughts?
No, but a continuation of the same thought....
I stated that if you tried this, and it didn't work, then something is not
in good working order. I stand by that statement. Lessee if we can figure
out what is broken, shall we?
Once again, assuming memory serves, the connection between the wall wart
jack on the back of the MP-1 is tied directly to the new pins on the Midi In
jack of the MP-1. Plug the wall wart into the MP-1, but leave the MIDI cable
unconnected. Measure the voltage on the MIDI In jack, from pin <one less
than one> to pin <one more than five>. If you HAVE voltage there, your MP-1
is OK. If not, your problem is internal to the MP-1. End troubleshooting -
fix offending MP-1.
If you're still reading, you have determined the MP-1 is OK. Now plug the
custom MIDI cable into the MP-1's MIDI in jack. Take a voltage reading on
the other end of the cable - same pins (the ones on the ends of the
semi-circle). Got voltage? Cable OK. No voltage? Cable bad - replace or
repair.
If you're still reading, the MC-1 is the only thing left. Fix it. Must be a
bad connection between the 'extra' pins of it's MIDI out jack, and the pins
of the wall wart connector.
Scenarios not covered in above analysis:
- I am incorrect in my recollection that the wall wart jacks are tied
directly to the MIDI pins.
- Wall wart delivering voltage when unloaded, but cannot deliver sufficient
current, due to mid-impedance short*.
* (is "mid-impedance short" an oxymoron? mebbe I shoulda said significant
shunt admittance).
Let me know if we need to proceed further.