Mercury Magnetics Tranny bolts
J.P.
rebuild. Now there are three different techs telling me three
different ways to do it. The tranny comes with bolts that have plastic
insulating washers on all 8 holes. What is the CORRECT way to bolt
this bastard down? I already wrote MM but got a pass the fucking buck
answer from their goddamn tech department advising me to take it to a
tech. Fucking asshole! Any comments?
Elvis Kabong
"J.P." <j...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:4au7u395p12b74jqh...@4ax.com...
Swallow the washers and shove the bolts up your ass.
They'll make their connections automatically.
G-Dawg
I just built a DR using a MM trannies... I mounted my MM power tranny by
leaving the plastic washers and nuts as is, mount it in the chassis and put
four new nuts on the inside of the chassis. I checked my '66 Blackface DR
and it was set up the same way in 1966 with the nuts between the tranny and
the chassis, so I did the same. Also, the MM power tranny came with an open
top. I asked about it and MM sent me the bell to cover it. I was "cloning"
my vintage amp, so I decided to use it. Not sure if the reissue tranny has a
bell cover option or if you even want one,,, Just putting that out there,
and that's where I scarfed the extra nuts, because they sent me a new bolt
kit which was exactly the same lengths.
Peter Alerich
2 quotes from the Hoffman forum pertaining to this:
"Can save you a call, been there. They will tell you that they
recommend that you lift the nylon shoulder bushings out, set your PT,
than push the shoulder bushings back through the chassis holes, in to
the PT, then secure. This will bond the PT iron to the chassis, but
not the bolts. Then they will recommend that you do not use the PT
bolts for bonding/stacking grounds, (with bond jumper, don't) bolt
grounds straight to the chassis. Sounds/is different, but has
something to do with keeping the bolts isolated from ground, through
the PT, which is how the PT is assembled. I didn't argue, I just do it
now."
"The plastic shoulder washers are there to insulate the screws from
the laminations on the tranny. I you are mounting the PT flat (like
most Fender PT’s), remove the plastic should washers on the side of
the PT that is going against the chassis. Make sure the metal
laminations are flush with the chassis making good contact. You can
then install the plastic shoulder washers on the other side of the
chassis with the nuts to make sure the screws do not touch the
laminations and the screws are floating straight down the middle of
the laminations holes."
G-Dawg
news:gkp8u3h2k61ahrjhn...@4ax.com...
I guess they would know better than Fender.
You will have to drill the chassis to open the mounting holes to fit the
plastic shoulder bushings. Then the heavy tranny will be supported by
plastic.
I've mounted mine as I previously described and the amp sounds awesome, and
it is quiet (no ground or hum problems). Take a look at any vintage Deluxe
Reverb and see how Fender did it. IMHO that is the correct answer.
J.P.
From MM.
Thank you for choosing Mercury.
The plastic inserts are shoulder washers and need to be used in order
to prevent any movement.
I am not sure what you mean by not using the bolts for ground as that
is necessary.
Everything we put on the transformer is there for a reason.
Have a look at www.WayneReno.com
If you have any doubts, please do consult with a qualified tech. Let
me know if you would like us to recommend someone.
-------------------------------------------------------
The insulators are there to insulate the screw from the laminations
and the chassis.
Otherwise, you will create a short circuit and get excessive heat.
The shoulder washers are there to also keep the screws stable so that
the transformer does not move.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Have a close look here.
This is nice.
You do not see the shoulder washers “plastic inserts” as they are on
the other side of the chassis, but ARE USED! If you look closely, you
can see a slight gap as the tranny is raised slightly above the
chassis from them.
You need to use all four and you do have everything you need there.
There are two ways to do this so hope this pic helps as one way.
(Included a pic from Mickey Manns DRRI rebuild showing the tranny.
But all you can see is that he used fender washers under the damn
chassis)
Peter Alerich
>The insulators are there to insulate the screw from the laminations
>and the chassis.
>
>Otherwise, you will create a short circuit and get excessive heat.
I also saw that point mentioned in the Hoffman thread I referenced but
since Leo didn't do it that way it must be wrong so I didn't bother
bringing it up.
If you haven't already you should visit:
http://www.el34world.com/Forum/yabb2/YaBB.pl
It's the forum on Doug Hoffman's website. There are lots of amp
builders there and many good threads. They have a couple guys on that
message board whose background and knowledge is simply staggering.
But they are not Leo. Be forewarned.
Peter
G-Dawg
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hello Patrick,
I received my package and the end bell today.
Stupid question of the day. Do I mount the transformer to the chassis with
just one nut on the other side (inside) of the chassis? I thought you had
said without the bell, the transformer grounds to the chassis better, but
there are the plastic bolt guides that would prevent it from being grounded
anyway.
What info am I missing?
Thanks again,
Gary
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Hi Gary,
Check out this link: http://www.waynereno.com/
That should help.
Let me know how it goes.
Thanks Gary!
Patrick
------------------------------------------------------------------------
That was the answer I got... The web site is cool but definitely didn't get
into the detail of mounting the tranny.
The other problem I had was mounting the Output tranny as it is huge. It's
way bigger than stock. I had to turn it 90 degrees to clear the cone of the
speaker... There's a thread on it, but that's a whole nother deal...
I get my 1966 chassis back on Monday (amp dude is setting the bias). I can
post a photo of how the real thing is set up.
G-Dawg
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Subject: Re: 1964 Deluxe Reverb Build
Hello Patrick,
Yep, seen that site before. Not enough nuts and bolts detail though.
I looked at my 1966 Deluxe Reverb and can see the nuts on the transformers
side and then keeper nuts on the other side of the chassis, so that's what
I'll do.
I put the bell on. Wow, that sucker is a tight fit with all those wires. I
kept them nice and orderly and the bell fit on, but snuggly. This is OK,
right?
Thanks again man,
Gary
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hi Gary,
Snug is a good thing!
The plastic shoulder washers are there to stabilize the screws, without
them, you have wobble.
Let me know how it goes.
Thanks Gary!
Patrick
***********************************
Patrick Selfridge
SSN Manager
Mercury Magnetics
Patrick@Mercury Magnetics
www.MercuryMagnetics.com
(818) 998-7791
Fax: (818) 998-7835
J.P.
Lol ...just say anything to get rid of the slobs huh? I guess I will
have to draw up a detailed pic and send the broke bastards so they can
post it on their website since they cannot seem to be able to afford
telling one of their design engineers or tech writers to make a one
page installation details webpage for their non standard PT mount.
Rich Koerner
Keep the insulator washers on the end bells to float the bolts through the core.
This prevents eddy currents from flowing in the core and creating unwanted heat.
Poke the holes through the chassis, and ADD the nuts to hold it to the chassis.
Regards,
Rich Koerner,
Time Electronics.
http://www.timeelect.com
Specialists in Live Sound FOH Engineering,
Music & Studio Production,
Vintage Instruments, and Tube Amplifiers
G-Dawg
"Rich Koerner" <ri...@timeelect.com> wrote in message
news:47E63CC1...@timeelect.com...
Exactly! Now leave the nuts on as well, go get four more nuts and mount that
thing. Having nuts on both sides of the tranny and then the nuts on the
inside of the chassis will tighten against the nuts on the outside, not
tighten against the laminations. Just like Uncle Leo used to do it!
J.P.
wrote:
Thanks Rich....So the bolts are insulated from the core, and the core
insulated from the chassis, but the bolts ARE in contact with the
chassis. That's what I did. One person put the insulators in the
tranny holes, top and bottom, then put a nut on each bolt tightened up
to hold the insulators in the trannys, then mounted the tranny in the
holes, then put another nut on the underside of the chassis to secure
the tranny. I assumed that would put a little more stress on the
tranny bolts and might give a little more wobble room since the tranny
would be a little higher.Would be easier to mount though. Probably
would not matter anyway huh?
J.P.
Okay, here is the 8 nut person now Rich..lol... what say ye? Sounds
good to me also...not to kick a dead mule but I need to establish what
I am doing and why. Thanks guys...