Just wondering if anyone has tried this gadget yet.
Doesn't look like anything for the bench, but it
might be handy in the gig bag...
From the other soldering thread, I'm glad to know
I'm not the only one that whoops out the trusty old
Weller to solder to pots and chassis.
Thanks,
John
>
>
>Just wondering if anyone has tried this gadget yet.
>Doesn't look like anything for the bench, but it
>might be handy in the gig bag...
>
>Http://www.coldheatools.com
I saw a commercial for that once. I was a bit suspicious of it.
But it looks like it might be handy for emergencies. I'd question
it's ability to actually make a good solid solder. Because it's one
thing to melt the solder, that's a piece of cake, but will it heat the
metal that you're soldering to?
Watching their demo, I don't think it does. So my guess is that it
doesn't make good connection.
> From the other soldering thread, I'm glad to know
>I'm not the only one that whoops out the trusty old
>Weller to solder to pots and chassis.
>
>Thanks,
>John
Sure, but I'm not a tech.
Pete
--
Boy, this *is* a long story you know...
maybe I *will* go get somethin' to eat. --Meatwad
Yup. My 13 year old got one from a family friend for Xmas, and I've
played with it / researched the patent etc.
My opinion/observations, short : Gig bag indeed, probably 2nd choice if
I could plug in a ~40 watt non-regulated pencil. Eats batteries fast.
Tip (that comes with it*) too large for 'precision' use, but likely
could be depended on to do the odd 1/4" connector job, or replace that
9v battery snap.
*Other sizes/styles tips available, my tests were only with the stock
'chisel' style as received.
The technology / down sides : It works on the simple principle of
shorting out 4)AA batteries, wired in series (6v) with some solder
(which ends up heating and melting the solder.) That's it, period, no
kidding. (There are minor bells and whistles, an 'on' LED that tells
you the batteries are draining <solder is bridging the electrodes>, and
a light to see by.)
The two 'contact' electrodes (which the solder bridges) are graphite,
the original patent (#6,646,228) mentions the suitability of those such
as found in a #1209 lantern battery...(get your pocket knifes out,
guys!) the physics amounts to (the terminals) having very low thermal
conductivity (and high heat resistance), so the heat generated by the
solder 'bridge' stays with the solder/solder contacting surface.
Needless to say (?!) a guy wouldn't want, under any circumstance
(except working to directly sabotage a piece of gear ;-) to touch the
side of an IC with this thing (or any closely spaced solid state
circuit/component) where 6 volts of 'high current' might do some harm.
Overall the product looked/handled as a nominally well engineered piece
of business; however, I'd suggest they bring out a model that's
'beefier' (more robust plastic, battery door hinged instead of the
routine pop off kind, a spring-loaded retractable tip** cover?), I
wouldn't want to drop it (without assuming destruction).
**Oh yea, the tips are relatively fragile; don't use it to pry wires!
and the tip is where all the cost is; they're ceramic/graphite and cost
almost as much as the whole iron at $20
Hope this helps,
-Robert
QTS
http://www.Braught.com
Agreed. Sounds *interesting*... wondering if anyone has tried it...
> From the other soldering thread, I'm glad to know
> I'm not the only one that whoops out the trusty old
> Weller to solder to pots and chassis.
>
> Thanks,
> John
Me too. I've got my Dad's late 50's, early 60's, (*vintage*) Weller
"soldering gun"... and my own 'early 90s' Weller *gun*. Handy when ya
need'm. As a kid I was jazzed by the little light that it has. Now I
*need* the light... :-|
gtski
...
> The technology / down sides : It works on the simple principle of
> shorting out 4)AA batteries, wired in series (6v) with some solder
> (which ends up heating and melting the solder.) That's it, period, no
> kidding.
If you touch the tips to the workpiece, it's the work that gets hot.
Then you can apply the solder.
> (There are minor bells and whistles, an 'on' LED that tells
> you the batteries are draining <solder is bridging the electrodes>, and
> a light to see by.)
The 'light to see by' is one of the best features!
...
> Overall the product looked/handled as a nominally well engineered piece
> of business; however, I'd suggest they bring out a model that's
> 'beefier' (more robust plastic, battery door hinged instead of the
> routine pop off kind, a spring-loaded retractable tip** cover?), I
> wouldn't want to drop it (without assuming destruction).
Mine (both! quirk of Xmas...) have two screws holding on the
battery cover, it's not coming off unless you tell it to.
That said, it't definitely not the #1 solder tool in the house... purely
for emergencies.
__
Steve
.
Thanks for the details guys, I see they've got them
at Home Depot now. Guess it'll cost me $20 to see if
it's worth it to me.
Thanks,
John
I forgot about those soldering guns. I actually have one of those
somewhere. It has three different watt tips, but I don't remember
what watts they are. I wonder if that thing would be good for
soldering to a chassis.
Mine is from the '70s or '80s sometime. Too long ago. My parents
gave it to me. I think I quit using the thing because it was too much
work squeezing the thing to make it heat up, and then you have to set
it down, and the damn thing would cool off too fast!
Forgot all about that thing.
I *just* tried one, yesterday!
I asked my visiting brother in law to bring his
down, and let me try it out...
I'm sure the operational description has been
covered already, but these are the big problems I
saw with it, for point-to-point work:
1. Getting the circuit completed for the split-
tip on typical stuff like terminal strips, tube
sockets, etc is tough. A red LED lites up when
its complete, and you can see a little spark most
of the time as well, and it was difficult to
start, and maintain the circuit.
2. The tip is wide, flat, and not conducive to
poking, prying, unwinding leads, etc. It lacks
the "mechanical tool" capability of a regular
iron tip.
Several attempts on my part failed to get more
than a slight, very localized puddling on several
different joints. I tried terminals with just
two leads/components, and some with four or five
leads...didn't work for me, on any of them.
And, the tip could retain enough heat to burn
you, if you dabbed it *immediately* after a long
burn...I waited a few seconds and checked it, it
was pretty darn hot, tho it does cool off quick--
within say ten seconds, it's not an issue.
Hi John,
Save your money. A review I saw a while back from one of those TV
reporter consumer things had the engineers in the station try it out.
They said, "BLECH!"
For portability, I'd go with some variation of a butane iron.
For what it's worth...
Regards
John
Let us know . . ! ! ! !
... at the "depot", you could *return* it if it's poop.
gtski
Yes, it can be a PITA sometimes, but mine 'heats up' in about 5-6
seconds. I think if the tip is "worn out" it takes longer. When I'm
making cables I "set up" a bunch of them, then solder as much as I can
in one go...
I've used the "guns" to solder to heavier pieces, like brackets and
stuff (not amp chassis per se) and it's worked fine. And I've used it
to solder to pots... works great..!! ! They sell tips at RatShack (at
least last time I checked) and maybe even Home Depot.
gtski
Sure as shit someone will be doing that and fire it up accidentally...
Thus, it's probably a $5 rig with a $15 insurance policy.
gtski
** toast ** No need for it.
Thanks for the "review".
Uh oh. According to the patent, and my experiments, the void between
the electrodes is the real 'magic'; I didn't know that just touching it
(to a previously non-soldered object?) would get it going!
> > (There are minor bells and whistles, an 'on' LED that tells
> > you the batteries are draining <solder is bridging the electrodes>,
and
> > a light to see by.)
>
> The 'light to see by' is one of the best features!
Agreed; makes it good for the gig bag (as I recall, my old Wen coldless
units had a light too...?)
> ...
>
> > Overall the product looked/handled as a nominally well engineered
piece
> > of business; however, I'd suggest they bring out a model that's
> > 'beefier' (more robust plastic, battery door hinged instead of the
> > routine pop off kind, a spring-loaded retractable tip** cover?), I
> > wouldn't want to drop it (without assuming destruction).
>
> Mine (both! quirk of Xmas...) have two screws holding on the
> battery cover, it's not coming off unless you tell it to.
*That's* right; I forgot; when writing my 'mini-review', I forgot my
main beef with it (the battery compartment), I just recalled I didn't
care for the arrangement; FWIW I didn't do a full discharge ('work it
til it no longer works') test on fresh batteries, but I could 'feel
them goin'...(the high current demand); I'd still suggest they make it
easier to change batteries, maybe a really good hinged lid affair...
>
> That said, it't definitely not the #1 solder tool in the house...
purely
> for emergencies.
> __
> Steve
> .
-Robert
> *need* the light... :-|
>
> gtski
I have a heavy-duty (100-watt or so) Weller gun from the '50s--I
couldn't do without it. Tons of heat when you need it.
Any idea where to buy replacement bulbs? Radio Shack doesn't have 'em,
nor does Home Depot.
--E
If it takes longer to warm up, just tighten down
the tip screws/nuts...usually does the trick.
I just strip a piece of 12 ga romex, to make a
new tip.
Give it a try... heated up the tip of a screwdriver pretty well for me.
The workpiece has to be conductive, that's all. Pretty easy condition
to meet in a soldering application.
__
Steve
.
...
> I've used the "guns" to solder to heavier pieces, like brackets and
> stuff (not amp chassis per se) and it's worked fine. And I've used it
> to solder to pots... works great..!! ! They sell tips at RatShack (at
> least last time I checked) and maybe even Home Depot.
Get some #12 or #14 solid copper wire... that's all the tip you need.
A lot cheaper... man, I grew up cheap. I used to solder my guitar
strings back together when I broke one... done this at gigs. You have
to have lots of spare string wound on the post!
__
Steve
.
Google "cooper tools" and follow the links to the
Weller site. Search "bulbs" !!! They got 'em in
both wedge and screw base.
Regards,
John King
I found it more difficult than it sounds, using
an old Motorola tuner section as a test bed. The
odd shapes and dimensions of all the solder
joints I tried it on (tube socket terminals,
terminal strips) made it difficult to get good
contact with both tips, and to keep it
established (it gives you some feedback on when
the circuit is established, with a little spark
and illumination of a red LED). IMHO, thumbs
down for point-to-point work.
I get the impression it starts to heat instantly, so faster than a
conventional solder pencil, butt... only with new batteries, of course.
Idea!
Give it a wall-wart power supply. You gotta have 120v anyways, to plug
the amp in.
Porky
Porky wrote:
It's a conduction iron.
Useless for serious electronics. Think about why you
wouldn't use a spot welder inside a guitar amp.
LV
Right. The fact that it can wreak havoc with IC's should be a deterrant
for most of us. Butt...someone mentioned quick fixes to input jacks,
cords and the like where a fast and portable soldering iron could
indeed be handy. I won't be buying one myself, would likely spend the $
on a good light.
Porky