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Peavey Bandit 65 Amp.

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Mike Schway

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Nov 25, 1998, 3:00:00 AM11/25/98
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In article <365c0...@139.134.5.33>, <brha...@DELETEbigpond.com> wrote:

> I Just recently aquired a Peavey Bandit 65 (Basically Free). Of course it
> doesn't have any manuals or the footswitch. A little info, on the amp
> footswitch and using it as a amp for external speakers would help.
>
> Comments of possible setup and features of the amp would also be of help.
>
> Thanks
>
> Ben

It's a fairly underappreciated amp. I know I'm gonna attract flames for
this, but it's a damn good cost-effective mid power SS combo (especially
at the price you paid!) With the "supersat" control, reverb, channel
switching, 3 band EQ and presence control, you have lots of tonal
possibilities. The later versions (Like the 112 "Transtube") had a
smoother overdrive sound, but the 65 is ok nontheless, especially for
clean sound. It ain't no DR, but it works and, as you say, it was
"basically free".

Like most PV's, you have to service it periodically to resolder jacks and
controls. Also, like most early 80's PV's, you can only replace
components on the PCB's a couple of times before the pads start to
delaminate.

The footswitch is a 2-switch job connected via a single 1/4 inch stereo
phone plug. Each switch grounds out one of the conductors to disable
reverb or switch to the "normal" channel. It's been many moons since I
got rid of mine, but if memory serves me right, without the switch
connected (or switch open), reverb is enabled and lead channel is active.
Don't remember if tip or ring is the reverb, but it's easy enough for you
to figure it out.

I don't think there's an ext speaker jack (again, it's been a
while...sorry in advance if I'm wrong). If you use an ext spkr, you're
might risk running into too low an impedance and stressing the output
transistors. The amp is designed for a 8 ohm load and I see no reason not
to believe them. If you must feed another cabinet, disconnect the speaker
by pulling the spade lugs and use the two wires to feed the other cab
(FWIW, the blue wire is ground), or use the line out (see below).

There is a line out which is post master vol. I think I remember that
there is also a power amp input which essentially only uses the internal
12 as a "dumb" slave amp...disabling the entire preamp section and giving
you no vol controls. Of course, you can use the line out and power amp
input in tandem as an effects loop.

I have prints for it at the shop. If any of my post is bogus, I'll
correct it later today.

Hope this helps (and isn't entirely BS on my part!) :-)

--Mike Schway

=====================================================================
Mike Schway | "My memory is a thing of the past"
msc...@nas.com | M. Smason
=====================================================================

Ben Harrow

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Nov 26, 1998, 3:00:00 AM11/26/98
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dhop...@teleport.com

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Nov 26, 1998, 3:00:00 AM11/26/98
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On Wed, 25 Nov 1998 09:44:15 -0800, msc...@nas.com (Mike Schway)
wrote:

>It's a fairly underappreciated amp. I know I'm gonna attract flames for
>this, but it's a damn good cost-effective mid power SS combo (especially
>at the price you paid!) With the "supersat" control, reverb, channel
>switching, 3 band EQ and presence control, you have lots of tonal
>possibilities. The later versions (Like the 112 "Transtube") had a
>smoother overdrive sound, but the 65 is ok nontheless, especially for
>clean sound. It ain't no DR, but it works and, as you say, it was
>"basically free".

Hear hear. I've had mine since 1983, paid for itself many times over.
Not a day in the shop. It's pretty loud, has an interesting range of
tones, and you can carry it with one hand. The overdrive is no match
for a 'real' amp, but it is a wonderfully synthetic buzzy sound which
is even better with really hot guitar pu's or in combination with
another front-end overdrive. It makes no attempt or pretense of
imitating a tube amp, but you can get monster sustain and very low
volumes.

snip

>The footswitch is a 2-switch job connected via a single 1/4 inch stereo
>phone plug. Each switch grounds out one of the conductors to disable
>reverb or switch to the "normal" channel. It's been many moons since I
>got rid of mine, but if memory serves me right, without the switch
>connected (or switch open), reverb is enabled and lead channel is active.
>Don't remember if tip or ring is the reverb, but it's easy enough for you
>to figure it out.

The effects switch changes clean/distortion, the other is reverb
on/off. One of the drawbacks of the amp is that the amp defaults to
the distortion channel - if you lose or forget the footswitch you
can't get the clean channel - and the distortion channel w/distortion
turned off sounds lousy. Later Bandits have a switch on the front
panel.

The clean channel is very clean, but you don'tget access to the same
tone controls that the distortion channel has. When using the
distortion channel, there is a knob that says Pull for Thick -
definitely pull it.

>I don't think there's an ext speaker jack

Nope. Later Bandits have it.

> Of course, you can use the line out and power amp
>input in tandem as an effects loop.

This works but I'm not sure if its recommended. Signal may be too hot
from the preamp out. Later Bandits include an effects loop.

This will be the amp you use when your tube amps are in the shop :-)

dave

MWS2468

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Nov 26, 1998, 3:00:00 AM11/26/98
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> I know I'm gonna attract flames for this, but it's a damn good cost-effective
mid power SS combo...

Dare to stand up to the tube orthodoxy!


* the executioner's face is always well hidden. *

Lord Valve

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Nov 26, 1998, 3:00:00 AM11/26/98
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In <19981126024824...@ng154.aol.com> mws...@aol.comQQQ

(MWS2468) writes:
>
>> I know I'm gonna attract flames for this, but it's a damn good
cost-effective
>mid power SS combo...
>
>Dare to stand up to the tube orthodoxy!

Lord Valve Speaketh:
At least, it's better than a Deluxe 112. Buy
a better speaker for it; the one it comes with
is garbage. Be prepared for the main PS filters
to break loose from the board; these are wave-
soldered and not properly glued down. Cracked
solder joints on the pots are common. Don't lean
it back, as the cooling on these is marginal
and doing so can cause heat build-up in the chassis.
The front end on these is fairly noisy, so watch
out for extreme gain settings. If you're buying
a used one, turn it up fairly loud, turn the reverb
all the way down, and pound the top a couple of
times with your fist. If you hear any static
or popping, be prepared to have a tech pull the
PCB and resolder the *entire* thing. If you have
everything in one of these properly redone, it
is a very reliable amp. Small, and loud. I
can't stand the way they sound, but the tone
is your problem, not mine. I just keep 'em
running.

Lord Valve
Visit my website: http://www.freeyellow.com/members2/lord-valve/
Good tube FAQ for newbies. Click the e-mail link and request a
tube catalog. I specialize in top quality HAND-SELECTED NOS and
current-production vacuum tubes. Good prices, fast service.
TONS of gear and parts in stock...let's DEAL!

"I got the chop...I'll never get popped." - Tower of Poweron


Frank Carr

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Nov 29, 1998, 3:00:00 AM11/29/98
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Ben Harrow wrote in message <365c0...@139.134.5.33>...


Here's some basic info from the "Operating Guide" sheet I got with mine
(purchased new about 10-11 years ago).

(1) The High Gain input is 6db louder than the low gain input. If both are
used together, then both are low gain.

(2) Pull Bright on the Lead Gain Pre is a +8db high frequency boost.

(3) The Saturation dial is supposed to be a simulation of soft clipping. I
don't like it myself and I usually use the clean channel with my SansAmp in
front.

(4) The Pull Bright on the Norm. Gain is also a +8db high frequency boost.

(5) The Pull Thick on the High EQ knob gives a boosted mid-range. This knob
switch is defeated when the Normal Channel is selected and defeats the Low
and Mid EQ settings.

(6) The Presence control provides a -/+ 12db cut/boost of the high frequency
range.

(7) The Preamp Out/ Power Amp In jacks. The sheet says that the Preamp out
can be connected to a tape recorder, mixer, etc. The preamp output is
approximately 1 volt RMS and has an impedance of 600 ohms. Any effects
device used here has to be capable of receiving 1 volt input and providing 1
volt output in order to properly drive the power amp. The Power Amp input
has an internal switch which disconnects the internal preamp.

(8) As best I can tell from the sheet, if the footswitch isn't present,
Reverb is on and the Lead Gain channel is selected. There is no information
on the sheet about how the footswitch is wired.

The thing I've liked about this amp is that it does have a really good clean
sound. In fact, I used it a few years ago as an auxiliary computer speaker
when I played Doom, Castle Wolfenstein, and the like. It works really well
with multi-effects units and amp simulators since, in clean mode, it doesn't
add a lot to the sound itself. It also can get quite loud for an amp of it's
size and style, but it can be played quietly as well with decent results.

If you need any more info on it, feel free to email me at the address
below...

Frank Carr
jfc...@msn.com

Ben Harrow

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Nov 30, 1998, 3:00:00 AM11/30/98
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Ben Harrow <brha...@bigpond.com> wrote in message
news:365c0...@139.134.5.33...

>I Just recently aquired a Peavey Bandit 65 (Basically Free). Of course it
>doesn't have any manuals or the footswitch. A little info, on the amp
>footswitch and using it as a amp for external speakers would help.
>
>Comments of possible setup and features of the amp would also be of help.
>
>Thanks
>
>Ben
>
>

Thanks to all of you who sent messages on my request for info on my peavey.
It has given me plenty of ideas on how to use it.

Ben

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