Short reviews/mentions of new/recent cookbooks
Steve Brock
are written by Steve Brock:
THE ROCKY MOUNTAIN WILD FOODS COOKBOOK by Darcy Williamson. Caxton
Printers, Ltd., 312 Main St., Caldwell, ID 83605, (800) 657-6465,
FAX: (208) 459-7450. Illustrated, index, bibliography. 261 pp.,
$17.95 plastic ringbound paper. 0-87004-367-6
A bounty for the naturalist. Part cookbook and part field guide
(even though Williamson denies that the illustrations rate high on
an identification scale), each of the twenty-eight chapters are
devoted to a particular plant that can be eaten or used as a
medicine. Williamson provides information on biology and folklore,
gathering hints, and about a dozen recipes for each plant. Don't
miss her recipe for huckleberry (or mountain blackberry) buttermilk
pancakes - a camper's staple! Grade: A-.
THE GREAT CHEFS SERIES: THE GREAT CHEFS COOK AMERICAN and THE GREAT
CHEFS COOK ITALIAN, edited by Ellen Brown. Doubleday/Main Street,
1540 Broadway, N.Y., NY 10036, (800) 223-6834, (212) 492-9862 FAX.
Index, mail-order sources. "American" is 218 pp., $18.95 plastic
ringbound cloth, 0-385-47865-8; "Italian" is 213 pp., $18.95
plastic ringbound cloth, 0-385-47866-6.
Q: Why did you become a chef?
A: I had my doctorate in biochemistry, and went to Houston to
see my future wife, Mimi. Her sister... gave me a job and
I've been here ever since.
-- Robert Del Grande, of "Cafe Annie"
Based on the popular PBS "Great Chefs" television series, these two
bare-bones books, the first to be offered in bookstores, include
over 150 easy-to-prepare recipes from appetizers and soups (black
bean cakes, clam chowder) to main dishes (chili-rubbed pork
tenderloin, salmon with asparagus sauce) to desserts (warm mixed-
berry compote) and beyond (tips on how to handle tomatoes and how
to pick crabmeat). The Great Editors at Doubleday, however,
neglected to hire a photographer, but I suspect those disappointed
by the lack of illustrations will be more receptive to the other
books and videos in the series that are much more lavishly
produced, published by Great Chefs Television and Publishing and
available only through mail-order. Also in the series: Chicago,
Hawaii, New Orleans I and II, San Francisco, of the East, Southwest
Tastes, Louisiana New Garde, and Great Cities. Grade for the two
books: C+
THE JOY OF PIZZA: TRADITIONAL AND GOURMET PIZZAS, CALZONES,
FOCACCIA AND BREADSTICKS by Randy R. LaBarge. Badger Mountain
Press, P.O. Box 1392, Richland, WA 99352, (800) 840-6692, FAX:
(509) 783-0727. Illustrated, index, references.
Mama Mia! There's little joy when you live in a college town with
numerous pizza shops, but none cares enough to make a good pizza.
The last good pizza I ate was several years ago at Rosino's in St.
Louis. LaBarge's book, however, is an adventurous and light-
hearted guide to gourmet pizza construction, from crusts to sauces,
cheeses, and toppings. Readers, in this case, are encouraged to do
this at home. With 36 recipes combining traditional (Pizza
Margherita) recipes with those for the more intrepid (Black
Peppered Fish with Black Olives and Jalapenos), there is something
here for everyone, even those allergic to tomatoes. The cover,
though, shows a pizzamaker tossing pizza dough in the air, but
there are no instructions for doing so in the text. Grade: B+.
THE JENNY CRAIG COOKBOOK: CUTTING THROUGH THE FAT. 2100 Lakeshore
Drive, Birmingham, AL 35209, (800) 366-4712, FAX: (205) 877-6790.
Illustrated, two indexes, appendix. 224 pp., $24.95 cloth. 0-
8487-1496-2
The self-taught weight-control authority weighs in with 180 recipes
for appetizers, breads, desserts, vegetarian main dishes, meats,
poultry, seafood, salads, side dishes, and soups and sandwiches
that cut the fat component to 20% or less, without sacrificing
flavor. My favorite is her Mocha Fudge Pie which uses instant
coffee, a light fudge brownie mix, and Kahlua. Another best bet is
her Shrimp Alfredo. Though her company has been accused of
misleading advertising, there's nothing deceptive about the
benefits of a low-fat diet. Craig also includes tips on menu
creation, nutrition, fitness, and, most important, staying
motivated. In this section, though, Craig is the star: playing
tennis, taking a brisk walk, etc., and readers will find it hard to
envision themselves in her place. Grade: B. On the Craig horizon:
vitamin supplements and fitness videos.
GOOD FOOD FAST by Malcolm Hillier. Dorling Kindersley, 232 Madison
Ave., N.Y., NY 10016, (212) 684-0404, FAX: (212) 684-0111.
Illustrated, index. 128 pp., $24.95 spiralbound cloth. 1-56458-
862-9.
When I first opened this book, the format reminded me of the DK
children's books where each page, illustrated with a face, is cut
into three horizontal pieces. Readers can then change the hair,
nose, or mouth, with comical results. Hillier's book is similarly
arranged. Each page has three components: an appetizer, a main
course, and a dessert, allowing the cook to create a menu without
turning pages. Each component contains a recipe on one side of the
page with an illustration of the finished product on the other, an
easy way to create inspired combinations. I wish the book had
included a split page picture of Hillier, so the reader could place
Hungarian Cherry Soup on top of his head, with Berry Bliss running
off his chin. Grade: A-.
THE WOMAN'S DAY COOKBOOK by Kathy Farrell-Kingsley and the editors
of Woman's Day. Viking Books, 375 Hudson St., N.Y., NY 10014,
(212) 366-2000, (212) 366-2666 FAX. Illustrated, index, appendix,
glossary. 720 pp., $24.95 cloth. 0-670-85876-5
While it's not the most exciting, it's one of the most reliable
cookbooks on the market. The 1995 version includes over 700
recipes, a year's worth of daily menu planners, special meals that
can be made ahead, made in one pot, and made for more than one
sitting, tips on food purchases, microwave recipes, and complete
health information. While many are grateful for their appearance,
the increasing reliance on canned and frozen items makes me wonder
what is involved in the "rigorous testing" of the recipes. Grade:
B.
COOKING FOR A HEALTHY FAMILY: INSPIRED VEGETARIAN MEALS by Simon
Hope, photography by Sara Taylor. Stewart, Tabori, and Chang,
Inc., 575 Broadway, N.Y., NY 10012, (800) 722-7202, FAX: (212) 941-
2982. Illustrated, index, glossary. 160 pp., $29.95 cloth. 1-
55670-427-5
Vegetarian dishes at the Pittsburgh Steelers training table? At
Taco Bell? Meatless diets are becoming more popular ("Gimme a
chili-burger" is being replaced by "Gimme a soya-burger"), and
Hope, a vegan ("vee-gan") himself, offers over 100 spectacularly
photographed dishes, revolving around such events as pregnancy,
birthday parties and other family phenomena, even featuring home-
made vegetarian baby food. Missing, though, is an emphasis on
meeting nutritional needs and a caution that meat and poultry
shouldn't be replaced by lots of dairy products. Grade: B.
BETTER HOMES AND GARDENS HEALTHY FAMILY COOKBOOK, Mary Williams,
editor. Meredith Book Group, 1716 Locust St., Des Moines, IA
50309-3023, (515) 284-3000. Illustrated, index, appendix. 360
pp., $29.95 cloth. 0-696-20094-5
With my inherited cholesterol level in the danger zone, I have to
watch my intake of high-fat foods, and this book, with its 365
heart-healthy recipes that even sound good (like Country Pot Roast
with Baby Vegetables or Garlic and Pepper Chicken with Broccoli),
is an outstanding guide to creating low-fat, low-calorie, and low-
sodium meals. Also included is complete nutritional information.
Don't let the alliterative chapter names (Fantastic Fish, Bountiful
Breads) grate on you. Grade: A-.
SUSANNA FOO CHINESE CUISINE by Susanna Foo, photography by Louis B.
Wallach. Chapters Publishing, 2031 Shelburne Rd., Shelburne, VT
05482, (802) 985-8700, FAX: (802) 985-8787. Illustrated, index,
map, list of mail-order sources. 352 pp., $35.00 cloth. 1-881527-
94-8
In the Year of the Pig, 4693, award-winning chef and owner of
Susanna Foo's restaurant in Philadelphia (1512 Walnut St.) has
compiled over 150 Hunan-style recipes that have been passed down
over thousands of years. No complicated stir-frying (Foo uses
western pans) but many soups, stews, braised and roasted dishes,
home-made sauces, and pastas, oops, noodles. My favorite is
chicken roasted with black beans and garlic. Grade: A.
Short Mentions:
THE CLASSIC MEDITERRANEAN COOKBOOK by Sarah Woodward. Dorling
Kindersley, 232 Madison Ave., N.Y., NY 10016, (212) 684-0404, FAX:
(212) 684-0111. Illustrated, index, appendix. 160 pp., $24.95
cloth. 1-7894-0142-8. The 130 recipes presented here have one
thing in common: freshness, simplicity, and enjoyment. The
dazzling illustrations may make the cook, frustrated by the
preparation time, opt for a Classic Mediterranean Restaurant.
Grade: B+.
FAST FEASTS by Anton Edelmann. HarperCollins Publishers, Inc., 10
E. 53rd St., N.Y., NY 10022-5299, (800) 242-7737, (800) 822-4090
FAX. Illustrated, index, glossary. 176 pp., $32.00 cloth. 0-00-
412759-5. Edelmann, maitre chef des cuisines at The Savoy in
London, shares recipes and menus encompassing the themes of Brunch,
Lunch, Afternoon Tea, and Dinner. Grade: A-.
MADHUR JAFFREY'S INDIAN COOKING by Madhur Jaffrey. Barrons
Educational Services, Inc., 250 Wireless Bl., Hauppage, NY 11788,
(800) 645-3476, (516) 434-3723 FAX, by arrangement with BBC Books.
Illustrated, index, appendix. 224 pp., $21.95 cloth. 0-8120-6458-
4. More than 130 recipes are offered in this revised and expanded
version of traditional Indian fare which has become a definitive
classic, first published in 1983. Grade: A-.
STEP-BY-STEP GOURMET, compiled by the editors of Meredith Press,
1716 Locust St., Des Moines, IA 50309-3023, (515) 284-3000.
Illustrated, index. 256 pp., $29.95 cloth. 0-696-20531-9. Four
hundred forty-eight mouthwatering recipes, from the traditional to
the elaborate and covering all food groups, for those who would
rather be shown, as well as being told, what to do. Grade: A.