C13 City Guide: Southeast Portland, Part 2 (SE Belmont)
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opportunity to reunite with friends, make new friendships, and explore
new cities in the process. Although the scheduled shows in the evenings
may be fun for some attendees, many Convergence attendees usually take
home fresh memories after experiencing new surroundings with friends.
Breaking away from the hotel area allows Convergence attendees and other
visitors a chance to get away from the familiar surroundings, get a feel
for the vibes of various neighborhoods, and establish long-lasting bonds
and friendships. After all, it's hard to engage in a meaningful
conversation with other attendees in a loud concert or club setting.
Located in inner Eastside Portland, Belmont is a very bustling yet
quirky neighborhood which is characterized by copious amount of
independent businesses, notable eateries, and its proximity to the more
dense Hawthorne district (which I wrote about last week). In fact,
Belmont runs parallel six blocks north of Hawthorne, and one can easily
walk from one area to the other (and take in the wonderful sights of
many century-old homes, quiet and tranquil atmosphere, and meticulously
crafted gardens along the sidewalk). As with many pockets of Portland
neighborhood areas, Belmont is laid-back, quirky, and friendly to the
Goth community. There are several notable attractions in the area,
including a historical cemetery, an exquisite teahouse, thrift stores,
brunch institutions, and dessert houses.
SE BELMONT BY CAR (FROM THE HILTON PARKING GARAGE): Exit the parking
garage on SW Salmon (turn left), and drive down the street. Turn left on
SW 4th. Drive ahead for 3 blocks and turn right on SW Alder. Drive
ahead, and you will get on the Morrison Bridge. Go over the Willamette
River, and keep following signs for Belmont Street. Most of the
attractions are located between SE 30th and SE 37th, although there is a
cluster of interesting places between SE 12th and 15th, as well as
between SE 20th and SE 24th. Park on the street, or park on one of the
side streets. There are no parking meters in the neighborhood.
SE BELMONT BY BUS (FROM THE HILTON PARKING GARAGE): Walk one block north
(towards the Pioneer Square) on SW 6th, and catch the 15-Belmont at the
bus shelter on SW Yamhill and 6th. The fare for one-way is $1.70, with a
transfer that is good for 1 to 2 hours. An option would be to purchase
an All-Day ticket for $4.25, which would allow you to travel and peruse
with ease (note: bus drivers do not carry change. You can get an all-day
pass from a ticket machine in the Pioneer Square, which is two blocks
away from the hotel). During daytime, the 15-Belmont line run every 15
minutes (or with greater frequency). The bus travels down SE Belmont
with stops every 2-3 blocks along the way. The best stops for
exploration are on SE 30th and SE 37th on upper Belmont (15 minutes from
downtown). The nearest stop to the Lone Fir Cemetery is on SE 20th.
If you are in the Hawthorne district and want to visit Belmont, simply
walk six blocks north, while enjoying the sights and the scent of the
warm spring air.
LONE FIR CEMETERY: Established in 1849, the 30-acre public cemetery is
Portland's oldest existing cemetery, and its gathering of majestic trees
and foliage-rich environs provide a soothing contrast to the residential
neighborhood which surrounds the sanctuary. Numerous styles of
headstones, burial markers, and memorials adorn the cemetery.
Portlanders who are buried at Lone Fir Cemetery include public figures,
normal citizens, and those who lived in infamy. This cemetery is highly
regarded by local Goths, who have held picnics within its hallowed
grounds. The nearest entrance to the cemetery is on SE 20th and Morrison
(one block north of Belmont).
THE TAO OF TEA: There has been some talk among Convergence attendees in
exploring tea houses in the Portland area. Southeast Belmont is home to
a very notable institution, The Tao of Tea (3430 SE Belmont,
503-736-0198, www.taooftea.com) is an exquisite sanctuary for
relaxation, contemplation, and for having meaningful conversations with
company. The tea menu encompasses diverse origins, including China,
India, Japan, African regions, and Vietnam. Light fares complement the
tea selection. And if you manage to get to The Tao of Tea before 7 p.m.,
you can peruse the wall of tea and numerous tea hardware in the tea shop
room next door. The teahouse is open daily from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.,
while the adjoining tea shop is open until 7 p.m. This is a must-visit
for tea aficionados.
S-H-O-P-P-I-N-G, WE'RE SHOPPING: There are couple of interesting antique
shops on Belmont. Mon Ami Antiques (3007 SE Belmont, 503-236-8974)
features vintage furnishings (and supposedly free wine on Friday
afternoons), and Noun (3300 SE Belmont, 503-235-0078) has funky and
quirky vintage objects (the latter store also houses the eastside
location of Saint Cupcake, by the way). Great Gatherings (3437 SE
Belmont, 503-236-6521) is a smallish thrift store. Za Zen (3415 SE
Belmont, 503-236-8991) is a women's boutique clothing store which may
appeal to hipster-oriented Goths. For those visitors with wee little
ones in tow, Polliwog (2900 SE Belmont, 503-236-3903,
www.polliwogportland.com) may be a pleasant stop on Belmont.
The best window-shopping experience is probably at The Belfry (3153 SE
Belmont, 503-234-0359), but as far as I can tell, the mask artist is
only available by appointment only. However, I have heard that the
establishment's works were worn by guests at the annual Vampire
Masquerade Ball here in Portland. The most eclectic and fun place on
Belmont is Avalon (3451 SE Belmont, 503-238-1617,
www.wunderlandgames.com), which is part nickel arcade and part discount
movie theater (the building used to be a full-fledged theater in its
earlier years). Although their film schedule for the Convergence weekend
consists of second-run films (TMNT, Meet The Robinsons, 300, The Last
Mimzy, Are We Done Yet?, Wild Hogs, and Premonition), the adult
admission is only $2.50.
Record and CD collectors will be happy to discover three
independently-owned music shops along Belmont. Discourage Records (1737
SE Morrison, 503-528-1093, www.discouragerecords.com) specializes in
punk vinyls. Sonic Recollections (2701 SE Belmont, 503-236-3050,
www.sonicrec.com) specializes in vinyl of all genres. Anthem Records
(822 SE 34th Ave., 503-963-9000, www.anthemrecordsinc.com) leans more
towards experimental and avant-garde stuff.
BRUNCH ON BELMONT: If the thought of waiting for brunch at downtown
restaurants along with 1000 other Convergence attendees sounds daunting,
just hop on the Belmont bus and experience the notable breakfast
establishments along the way. Many of these places do get crowded
between 10:30 a.m. and 1:00 p.m. on weekends, but brunch on the Eastside
is worth the quick jaunt across the river (heck, some of these places
may be perfect for Friday morning brunches if you arrive in Portland by
that time!). Zell's Cafe (1300 SE Morrison, 503-239-0196) is known for
their fluffy and tasty German pancakes, salmon egg benedict, and
homemade appetizer scones. The antique bar inside the cafe is an
eclectic eye-candy. Further up Belmont, Wild Abandon Restaurant (2411 SE
Belmont, 503-232-4458, www.wildabandonrestaurant.com) offers an awesome
weekend brunch selection and an ample patio seating in the back. Cricket
Cafe (3159 SE Belmont, 503-235-9348) features tasty vegetarian gravy and
biscuits, as well as other hearty breakfast items. I've heard plenty of
good things about Utopia Cafe (3308 SE Belmont, 503-235-7606), including
esoteric brunch menu items and patio dining away in the back. Paradox
Cafe (3439 SE Belmont, 503-232-7508, www.paradoxorganiccafe.com) is a
longtime institution which caters to vegetarian and vegan contingents,
as well as their omnivore friends, serving mainly
environmentally-friendly and organic ingredients. I haven't eaten there
in several years, but I remember nothing but good things about the Paradox.
SWEETNESS AND LIGHT: The Belmont area features two unique dessert houses
that are housed in dreamy Victorian houses. The Pied Cow Coffeehouse
(3244 SE Belmont, 503-230-4866) serves yum-eaux cheese plates, chocolate
desserts, and sundaes. They are also known for offering hookah in their
nicely-hidden outdoor patio garden. The inside of the coffee house is
full of mesmerizing tapestry, paintings, and shrines. The other
Victorian gem is the venerable Rimsky-Korsakoffeehouse (707 SE 12th
Ave., 503-232-2640), which serves live classical music and quirky
desserts. The evenings-only dessert house (hours are from 7 p.m. to
midnight Sunday through Thursday, and from 7 p.m. to 1 a.m. on Friday
and Saturday nights) features thematic tables (each table in the
coffeehouse is themed after a classical composer), and features a
quirky, art-deco bathroom. The menu items feature tea and coffee drinks
(the Cafe Borgia is heavenly!) as well as one of the best sundaes in
Portland (raspberry chocolate sundae is simply amazing even after all
these years!). Both of these dessert meccas are my idea of Victorian Dreams.
MOUTH IS ALIVE, ALL RUNNING INSIDE: There are plenty of diverse,
delicious, and divine dining options on Belmont. Hoda's Middle Eastern
Cuisine (3401 SE Belmont, 503-236-8325, www.hodas.com) is a very relaxed
and friendly neighborhood restaurant, and they are usually frequented by
Goths and their families. The Baba Ghanouj and Labne appetizers are
heavenly, and the oven-fresh pita bread seems like the ultimate comfort
food item. The desserts are top-notch, with the mouth-watering Knafe Bi
Gibne (cheese-filled shredded wheat pastry with rosewater syrup)
bordering on orgasmic. Yum-eaux! The aforementioned Wild Abandon
Restaurant welcomes people from all walks of life, and their diversity
is reflected in their vegetarian- and vegan-friendly menu items. They
may be moderately expensive, but the ambience in the Red Velvet Lounge
(i.e. their dining room) is memorable. Laughing Planet Cafe (3320 SE
Belmont, 503-235-6472, www.laughingplanetcafe.com) is extremely vegan-
and vegetarian-friendly, and their health-conscious menu has a wide
appeal among neighborhood residents. Salvador Molly's (3350 SE Morrison,
503-234-0896, www.salvadormollys.com) features tasty Latin and Caribbean
menu items, including their infamous Great Balls of Fire habanero and
cheese fritters (they are beyond hot: those who dare to eat all five
balls and survive will get their mugshot placed on their Wall of
Flame...however, they will likely suffer from Great Rings of Fire, and
they will hear their digestive system sing this corrosion to them).
Kinta Restaurant (3450 SE Belmont, 503-234-2623,
www.kintarestaurant.com) is a very exquisite Malaysian bistro which
offers simple-yet-filling healthy menu items, such as Miso Lemongrass
Noodle Soup, Tropical Malaysian Curry, and Curry Stir-Fry Noodles. They
also have interesting cocktail menu. Nostrana (1401 SE Morrison,
503-234-2427, www.nostrana.com) is a very exquisite casual Italian
restaurant which features extremely tasty wood oven-baked pizzas and an
extensive wine list. I am in love with their pizza and the radicchio
salad. Wow.
LIFT ME UP: And for those who simply want to chill with caffeinated
libations, Belmont has plenty of options. Stumptown Coffee Roasters
(3356 SE Belmont, 503-232-8889, stumptowncoffee.com) has both a coffee
shop and a cupping room (3352 SE Belmont--just two doors down from the
coffee house) in the area. Muddy Waters Coffee House (2908 SE Belmont,
503-233-1923) currently features Goth-influenced art, and features
delicious vegan snacks. The Shop on Belmont (2511 SE Belmont,
503-230-8914) is a quaint little coffee shop in a cute house. The
aforementioned Pied Cow and Rimsky's also serve copious varieties of
coffee drinks.
RELAX: If all these exploration options have left you feeling dizzy and
in need of a drink or two (or three), there are several options along
Belmont. Crush (1400 SE Morrison, 503-235-8150, www.crushbar.com) has
cute and sassy mixed drinks, and the Aalto Lounge (3356 SE Belmont,
503-235-6041) has good drinks and a nifty appetizer menu. The Blue Monk
(3341 SE Belmont, 503-595-0575, www.thebluemonk.com) offers a variety of
mixed drinks and live jazz music on most nights. Maiden In The Mist (639
SE Morrison, 503-232-5553, www.maideninthemist.com) has a folkish,
quasi-Gothic nautical theme with interesting drinks. Finally, if you are
interested in a British pub experience, the Horse Brass Pub (4534 SE
Belmont, 503-232-2202, www.horsebrass.com) is the mecca for copious
amounts of European brew on tap. They also have hearty British pub fare,
and is smoke-friendly (for better or for worse).
I hope this lengthy pontification about the nearby Belmont neighborhood
is useful for some attendees. As a Portlander for the past 11+ years, I
enjoy showing around and writing about the various interesting
neighborhoods and places around the city, and I feel that Belmont has
that quirky, artsy vibe that feels so comfortable and right.
RESOURCES:
Friends of Lone Fir Cemetery: http://www.friendsoflonefircemetery.org
PDX Magazine's neighborhood write-up on Belmont:
http://www.pdxmagazine.com/pdxpo/index.php?option=com_content&task=category§ionid=9&id=76&Itemid=87
Tri-Met Bus Line 15-Belmont: http://trimet.org/schedules/r015.htm