sink or swimmers
weedmonkey
hull. it has a
seating area in front of the windshield ,which will be removed , as
will seats ,controls ,ect.. i plan to cascade over the bow and have
reoccurring day dream of a bog and a stream and windmill (must
actually pump !)... oh... every thing kinda got woozy there ...
some body told me that i'll have to line this thing as it will
inevitably leak ...now if it keep water out it should keep it in
right?
also some one in the Group here says dark pond bottoms are
preferred... does anyone know what paint to use under water ,on
fibreglass?
still waiting for spring,
weedmonkey
The Pondguy
Black Gel Coat.
--
Charles K. Anderson
http://www.pondguy.com
CSA Bacteria and Enzymes
C&S Biological Filter System
mailto:pon...@busprod.com
mailto:cha...@pondguy.com
Jerrispond
>hull
WOW how cute this will be. I never thought of using a boat for a pond!
Jerri
~J~
about doing something like this a couple years ago. It seemed like the
perfect thing to do with an old fiberglass boat.....and folks practically
GIVE them away! The shape is great.
My idea was to dig a hole out and place it about half way into the ground to
keep the "boat" look, then I was dreaming about a sail.......oh I better
stop. I'm getting woozy too!
8-)
Good luck!
Janie
weedmonkey <lwe...@dlcwest.com> wrote in message
news:38F88CE5...@dlcwest.com...
| i found it...!...well, located anyway, a 14 or 16 ft. fibreglass
Karen Mullen
writes:
>
>| also some one in the Group here says dark pond bottoms are
>| preferred... does anyone know what paint to use under water ,on
>| fibreglass?
>|
you need a marine paint, but read the label or talk to the clerk, you don't
want an algecide type treatment in the paint.
Karen
Houston, TX Zone 9a
Member Internet Pond Society - IPS
Visit My Pond at http://members.aol.com/kmam1/MyPond/MyPond.html
My Art Studio at
http://members.aol.com/kmmstudios/K.M.Studios/K.M.Studios.html
Kevin Cutlip
updated with pics.. I was going to do this partially buried, and build a
small pier next to it and tie it off so it wouldnt float away!!!! Good
luck.....
K. Cutlip
Springworks Ponds
Ceos twpc
about doing something like this a couple years ago. It seemed like the
perfect thing to do with an old fiberglass boat.....and folks practically
GIVE them away! The shape is great.
My idea was to dig a hole out and place it about half way into the ground to
keep the "boat" look, then I was dreaming about a sail.......oh I better
stop. I'm getting woozy too!
8-)
Good luck!
Janie >>
Yes, this sure is a great idea!!! You must take pictures for us!!
Laurie :-)
Richard Kirk
1 Definitely NOT a gel coat. I learnt the hard way that these are designed
to go onto a mould and have the glass layers put directly on them when they
are still wet. They do not dry like normal paints with air contact, only
when air is excluded. Basically impossible to achieve in your situation.
2 Marine paints come in many types. Avoid anything that says antifouling
or anything like that as they are obviously designed to kill anything that
grows on them. They used to be copper based (out of favour and generally
illegal these days, thank heavens) but what ever the active ingredient they
do use, it still gets released into the water. Generally any marine paint
designed for use above the water will not be toxic, but they will have a bit
of a limited life underwater. What you are looking for is any two part
epoxy based coating. In SA I would use a product called "Flow Coat" which
is an epoxy coating designed for boat bilges. Look for something like that
and read the instructions, they are a bit fussy in terms of useful life
after they have been mixed, overcoating times and temperatures when they may
not be used. Also although almost nobody ever mentions it, don't ever paint
if the surface you are painting is almost cold enough for condensation to
occur.
Hope that helps
Cheers
Richard.
Karen Mullen wrote in message
<20000416003322...@nso-ba.aol.com>...
The Pondguy
> Two points.
>
> 1 Definitely NOT a gel coat. I learnt the hard way that these are designed
> to go onto a mould and have the glass layers put directly on them when they
> are still wet. They do not dry like normal paints with air contact, only
> when air is excluded. Basically impossible to achieve in your situation.
I think you didn't mix your gel coat correctly!
I have manufactured a (fiberglass) product for six years now and NEVER EVER had
a problem.
When gel goat is applied and mixed correctly with proper curing time it cures
hard
and is water proof. Vinyl not polyester resin. (polyester does not do well under
water for long periods of time)
I use gel coat to preserve the plug till the next part is laid up. (sometimes 2
or 3 months)
Two of the parts are even get gel coat on the back after the parts have been
fully cured and released from the mold, which incidentally are both completely
submerged all the time with never any problems in six years.
BTW gel coats do not dry they CURE which is a chemical reaction from the
combination of ingredients mixed together.
Based from your experiences I would say that you lacked in the correct amount of
(catalyst) hardener.
The Pondguy
> Richard Kirk wrote:
>
>
> > 2 Marine paints come in many types. Avoid anything that says antifouling
> > or anything like that as they are obviously designed to kill anything that
> > grows on them. They used to be copper based (out of favour and generally
> > illegal these days, thank heavens) but what ever the active ingredient they
> > do use, it still gets released into the water. Generally any marine paint
> > designed for use above the water will not be toxic, but they will have a bit
> > of a limited life underwater. What you are looking for is any two part
> > epoxy based coating. In SA I would use a product called "Flow Coat" which
> > is an epoxy coating designed for boat bilges. Look for something like that
> > and read the instructions, they are a bit fussy in terms of useful life
> > after they have been mixed, overcoating times and temperatures when they may
> > not be used. Also although almost nobody ever mentions it, don't ever paint
> > if the surface you are painting is almost cold enough for condensation to
> > occur.
Oops I forgot:
Most older marine paints were lead based not copper.
That is the reason that sailors would have to go for chelation on a regular basis to
bind up the free radical toxins in their blood stream, particularly heavy metals.
(meaning lead absorption threw their skin pores from the lead base paint)
Really!!!
weedmonkey
Richard Kirk wrote:
> What you are looking for is any two part
> epoxy based coating.
i've used West's epoxy for furniture repair and heard it was invented to repair
masts it should do..
> Hope that helps
it has a great deal thanks all...
Richard Kirk
The Pondguy wrote in message <38FA5DAC...@busprod.com>...
centre told me the story about the moulding etc. Must confess it didn't
make a lot of sense at the time but I wasn't about to waste a lot of money
to try again. Anyway, thanks for the comments, I'll remember for next time.
True they don't dry, I was careless in using the word. Sorry if I confused
anyone.
>
>>
>>
>> 2 Marine paints come in many types. Avoid anything that says
antifouling
>> or anything like that as they are obviously designed to kill anything
that
>> grows on them. They used to be copper based (out of favour and generally
>> illegal these days, thank heavens) but what ever the active ingredient
they
>> do use, it still gets released into the water. Generally any marine
paint
>> designed for use above the water will not be toxic, but they will have a
bit
>> of a limited life underwater. What you are looking for is any two part
>> epoxy based coating. In SA I would use a product called "Flow Coat"
which
>> is an epoxy coating designed for boat bilges. Look for something like
that
>> and read the instructions, they are a bit fussy in terms of useful life
>> after they have been mixed, overcoating times and temperatures when they
may
>> not be used. Also although almost nobody ever mentions it, don't ever
paint
>> if the surface you are painting is almost cold enough for condensation to
>> occur.
>>
>> Hope that helps
>>
>> Cheers
>> Richard.
>> Karen Mullen wrote in message
>> <20000416003322...@nso-ba.aol.com>...
>> >In article <WfaK4.4911$t_3....@cletus.bright.net>, "~J~"
>> <4him...@home.com>
>> >writes:
>> >
>> >>
>> >>| also some one in the Group here says dark pond bottoms are
>> >>| preferred... does anyone know what paint to use under water ,on
>> >>| fibreglass?
>> >>|
>> >
>> >you need a marine paint, but read the label or talk to the clerk, you
don't
>> >want an algecide type treatment in the paint.
>> >
>> >Karen
>> >
>> >Houston, TX Zone 9a
>> >Member Internet Pond Society - IPS
>> >Visit My Pond at http://members.aol.com/kmam1/MyPond/MyPond.html
>> >My Art Studio at
>> >http://members.aol.com/kmmstudios/K.M.Studios/K.M.Studios.html
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>
>
>
>