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TN: Charity dinner with Louis L, Laville HB, Stony Hill, Canon, Feneuil, Fiorano, Drouhin

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Jan 15, 2024, 3:55:57 PMJan 15
Mark generously hosted a small benefit for the non-profit I run, and provided dinner at Ibiza Kitchen, an excellent tapas place in Chappaqua. We made contributions and brought wine, and the restaurant outdid themselves Tapas (Mushroom croquettes, boquerones with avocado, caramelized salmon, foie gras) and some shared dishes (cucumber crab rolls with salmon roe, garlic shrimp, grilled langoustines, Iberico pork belly, paella with rabbit and seafood).

2017 Emilien Feneuil “Cuvee Totum” Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature
A new producer to me, apparently very sought after. 85% Chardonnay 15% Petit Meslier. White fruit, nutty, citrus. Crisp with an elegant mousse. The person who brought it thought it could have used a little dosage, and it was a bit stern at first, but I liked - and liked even more when retasted at end of evening. Though at $200+ maybe not a buyer. B+

1979 Louis Latour Puligny-Montrachet
Owner found it in a slot designated for a much younger Puligny 1er, has no memory of acquiring. But I ended up quite liking this. Pear, white flowers, butterscotch. This is actually quite alive. I’m not a fan of LL reds in this era for the most part but the whites can be extremely good. This held up through the evening, so fun. B+

1995 Fiorano (Prince Ludovisi) Malvasia
Ripe apple, muskmelon, almonds. Interesting, rare, and fun to try, but I tend to find the story of the Fiorano wines better than the wine. Others liked more. B-

1990 Laville Haut Brion Blanc
Ripe peach, vanillin oak, wax, quite ripe but there is nice core here and I like, though not best bottle I’ve had, Divisive, with some quite liking and one person disliking. We called a wine merchant dining at another table over for his opinion, he called astringent, not something I can see. For me B+

1981 Stony Hill Chardonnay
Best SH I’ve had in a decade plus. Honied pit fruits, orange zest, just a hint of nuttiness to indicate age, strong core of fruit. Lovely A-

2017 Drouhin “les Embazees” Chassagne-Montrachet 1er
Delicious and young, pear, peach, and just a little vanilla. Balanced acids, ripe (not overripe) fruit, good finish. B+

1982 Canon
This had been carefully kept upright but not double decanted. Opened at restaurant, when it was requested to be decanted, I watched in horror as it was basically splash decanted. That’s why I double decant. So a little murky, but still a good bottle. Black plum, tobacco, allspice. Resolved tannins, firm acidic spine. B+

There was a Keller and a Dom, but we decided we had enough wine. Generous of Mark to sponsor, and attendees were generous to Midnight Run. Fun night with good people

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
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