My mom and aunt (both long since passed) made lumpia wrappers regularly
using a simple batter made up of equal parts flour and water, along
with a dash of salt. As a young boy, I didn't pay much attention to how
they did it, but as an adult, I once saw my Aunt Nena make them at her
house, and I was awestruck. What she did was to make up the batter and
then heat a fry pan. When she was satisfied that the pan was hot
enough (don't know how she determined that), she scooped up some of the
batter in her cupped right hand and deftly spread it with a single
circular motion and in an even layer on the hot griddle. When the
wrapper was done on one side (don't know how she determined that,
either), she reached a fingernail under an edge of the wrapper to
loosen , grasped the wrapper with both hands and turned it over to
finish cooking. The entire process took maybe a minute or a little
more. To be sure, this was in the days before release sprays, like Pam.
So, awhile back I attempted this technique myself. In brief, I burned
my fingers and had to use elbow grease to scrape out the wrapper, which
stuck rather nicely to the frying pan.
Now, when I get my periodic urge to make lumpia wrappers, I no longer
do it the way my Aunt Nena did it (Once burned, twice shy. Right?).
But, as I've previously mentioned, the results have been spotty. My
technique is to pour what I believe to be a suitable amount into the
pan, quickly rotate the pan to spread it, and, after one side is done,
use a spatula to turn it over--like pancakes. Sometimes it works
neatly, and sometimes it doesn't. I've learned to expect a certain
amount of "waste-age."
Lately, I've considered using a French crepe pan I bought on impulse
some years back at a garage sale and never used. It has a convex
surface and no rim. I don't know how to use this implement, but I'm
thinking this might do the trick--maybe.
Long and short of it, I'd be much gratified if anyone here can point
me in the right direction. I'd be happy if, the next time I make lumpia
wrappers, it wouldn't be such a crap shoot.
P22
1 egg
1/2 cup plus 2tbl water
2/3 cup cornstarch
pinch salt
Combine ingredients - stir until smooth. Let stand 15 minutes
Lightly oil 8 in skillet or CREPE PAN over medium heat.
Pour a scant 2 tbls batter into pan and swirl to cover bottom.
Cook until edges begin to peel away (about 1 minute)
Lift with fingertips or spatula, turn, cook 30 seconds on other side.
Second version, without egg
1&1/4 cups water
1 cup cake flour
pinch salt.
Do the same as above but paint the batter on with a brush, adding second or
third coat to fill in gaps or thin spots.
Your crepe pan is probably going to come in handy!
This is a neat little book - has all sorts of things in it like tortillas
(duh, that's what it's called) and chapatis etc etc.
hth
Hoges in WA
I also find your suggestion of corn starch as the key ingredient in egg roll
wrappers quite interesting. Why corn starch rather than ordinary flour?
Have no idea at this stage - only got the book two days ago. I just
happened to flick through it right before you posted and saw the Lumpia.
They called to mind a superb dinner my wife and I had with some Malaysian
students back in our uni days (late 70s) - no money back then, just sitting
on the floor in their sparsely furnished student flat with us as the guests
eating Malaysian food for the first time.
>I also find your suggestion of corn starch as the key ingredient in egg
>roll wrappers quite interesting. Why corn starch rather than ordinary
> flour?
I was wondering the same thing. Never heard of using cornstarch.
Wouldn't be lumpia wrapper then, would it?
Can't help you, Arsenio. Always buy them myself. I'll pose the
question on one of my pinoy ng's and fwd any responses (if any).
LeeBat
Lorraine
"Arsenio Oloroso Jr." <aolo...@rcnchicago.com> wrote in message
news:3E62B917...@rcnchicago.com...
You can find descriptions of this process in Eileen Yin Fei Lo's "The Dim
Sum Book" and in "Florence Lin's Complete Guide to Chinese Noodles,
Dumplings, and Breads" by the eponymous Ms. Lin. Many other cookbooks
either explicitly state or assume by omission that people by the wrappers
because of the time and skill involved. In all these books, these
wrappers are called "Shanghai spring roll wrappers" or "chun juan pi."
In China, you will also hear them called "bo bing" (which I think becomes
"popia" in one of the southeastern Chinese languages and where I guess
"lumpia" derives from), also the name for the thicker pancakes used to
wrap Peking duck. Last month during the Spring Festival would have been
high time to see these being made and sold fresh in the outdoor markets
in China. They are often used at room temperature to wrap cold fillings
as well.
> So, awhile back I attempted this technique myself. In brief, I burned
> my fingers and had to use elbow grease to scrape out the wrapper, which
> stuck rather nicely to the frying pan.
I think one key is using the correct type of cooking surface, one that
the dough will not adhere to strongly but at the same time, one that is
tempered or seasoned with use. A seasoned cast iron griddle with a
machined surface (not made anymore, but Wagner was the company who used
to offer this style) might work well or I believe Ms. Lin recommends an
electric griddle. Greasing the pan before or during the process is not
part of the equation. The other key, apparently, is temperature: one of
the books recommended 300 degrees F if I remember correctly.
> Now, when I get my periodic urge to make lumpia wrappers, I no longer
> do it the way my Aunt Nena did it (Once burned, twice shy. Right?).
> But, as I've previously mentioned, the results have been spotty. My
> technique is to pour what I believe to be a suitable amount into the
> pan, quickly rotate the pan to spread it, and, after one side is done,
> use a spatula to turn it over--like pancakes. Sometimes it works
> neatly, and sometimes it doesn't. I've learned to expect a certain
> amount of "waste-age."
This seems to be a case of apples and oranges because the consistency of
the dough as your mom and aunt used would be too stiff to allow you to
"rotate the pan and spread it." It is however soft enough to want to run
out of your hand in a big glob, which is why when you watch folks make
them, their hand is regularly moving in a circular plane to center the
dough before slapping it on to the cooking surface.
> Much obliged for your advice. Your mention of the tortilla cookbook is
> interesting. Rhoda Yee, in her 1977 cookbook "Dim Sum" suggested a
> tortilla press as the ideal implement in making wrappers for shu mai
> (pork dumplings), Ha Gow (shrimp bonnets), and Kuo Tieh (pot stickers),
> as well as Choan Yao Bang (scallion pancakes).
Again, the dough would be too soft and sticky to use a tortilla press; it
would simply fuse to the press (or the wax/parchment paper you might use
in between). A tortilla press can be useful for stiffer doughs, but the
few times I've used mine, I always end up rolling out the dumpling
wrappers a bit more...or running them around in circle through my fingers
to flatten them a bit, which is what the folks making tortillas do as
well.
As for cornstarch, I've never seen it used as an ingredient in these
wrappers. However, for the thicker egg doughs used for Hong Kong-style
wontons (and Americanized egg rolls), I'm sure it's quite useful to keep
the wrappers from sticking together while making or storing them.
What is this "machined surface"? Is cast iron cookware not like it used to
be?
Peter
There are/were two types of cast iron cookware: the one that is still
available is a natural surface type like what you find made by Lodge.
Running your hand over the surface, it feels a little rough and nubbly;
gradually over time and heavy use, the seasoning (carbonized grease) will
even out the surface as it builds up into a smooth patina. The other
type, the one that I've searched high and low for to no avail, comes
smooth from the forge where it was made. Looking at the surface, you can
see the spiral pattern as it was run through the machine that smoothed it
off by removing material. At least I think that's how it was done.
Anyway, Wagner was the company that offered this style (as well as the
natural surface) but they're gone now, leaving only Lodge and the no-name
Chinese and Korean suppliers whose products you find in Wal-Marts and
Targets et al. Both are fine, but style B just gave you a head start
and, well, I just liked its look and performance better. I only have one
piece of Wagner, a round 10" griddle that as Charleton Heston most
publicly said, "...from my cold, dead hands."
I used to have one -black with a long wood handle- and if it is the same
style I think it's the right idea, at least for the surface material.
However, if you imagine yourself keeping up the Oloroso family tradition,
I think the convex shape will work against the goal as the idea is to
quickly slap the dough onto the hot surface and draw it off, leaving
behind a thin layer. Considering the size you want the wrapper to be,
the slight bubble-shape would prevent an even pass along the surface. I
never could figure out my pan either; I think a wok would work better all
around as if you've seen a skilled cook using a well-seasoned one, you
know that incredibly thin pancakes of egg (also for wrapping) can be made
by quickly working it around the inside of a hot wok...without it running
off the end of a slightly inverted surface. Ahh, the French...
I'm sort of butting in, but I think I would prefer a pan without sides. I
saw one at an Indian grocery store the other day. It was, I think, cast
iron and most likely used for making roti, paratha, or similar breads. It
was quite a bit wider than a crepe pan, so would allow for making more
smaller lumpia wrappers at one time (well, maybe only 2 or 3 small ones).
Oh, it didn't have high sides, but just a very low rim (maybe 1/4 inch
high?) around the sides. Just wanted to clarify that.
Oops. I just reread your OP and you said your crepe pan didn't have a rim
and had a convex surface. That sounds more like what I would like to use
(if I ever made my own lumpia wrappers). It would be easier to turn them
around without burning yourself (try moistening your fingers a bit before
flipping, too) It's worth a try and since you already have the pan, you
won't be putting in anything extra into the effort.
Another comment, I think fresh lumpia wrappers of the Filipino variety are
quite different from the Chinese ones mentioned elsewhere. Paoping (or bo
bing as another poster called them) are quite different from lumpia
wrappers. Paoping dough is a thicker dough that is rolled out. Lumpia
wrappers as I know them are made from a batter. The technique you mention
your aunt using seems similar to what I've seen Indian chefs use when making
dosa. Of course, that doesn't really help you, but maybe this lumpia making
thing is just a matter of practice makes perfect. Keep trying and you'll
find your groove :-).
rona
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>
>"Arsenio Oloroso Jr." <aolo...@rcnchicago.com> wrote in message
>news:3E63FB8B...@rcnchicago.com...
>
>
>
>I also find your suggestion of corn starch as the key ingredient in egg roll
>wrappers quite interesting. Why corn starch rather than ordinary flour?
I would expect that cornstarch is used to reduce the amount of gluten.
Gluten is the component in wheat flour that allows doughs to rise as
it binds the molecules. High gluten flours are used for bread making
so the gluten can entrap the gas bubbles produced by yeast. Cake
flours on the other hand are low gluten to allow a finer crumb.
If you have ever tried to roll out a yeast dough like for a pizza, you
will appreciate the addition of cornstarch in wrappers.
CapeCodBob
"He would be wood, if he could, but he's knot"
Visit my web site: http://home.earthlink.net/~bobmethelis/
No, they aren't that different as in the case of China, we're talking
about two different wrappers sometimes called the same thing. It seems,
however, we are talking about 2 different ways to arrive at that same
wrapper. Bo bing, frequently called Mandarin pancakes are indeed thicker
wrappers rolled out and cooked on a hot, flat surface with no grease.
They are usually rolled out and cooked two at a time and peeled apart
afterwards. These are the ones I mentioned being served with Peking
duck. Chun juan pi, AKA Shanghai spring roll wrappers, are also
sometimes called bo bing, but they are paper thin (as you mentioned,
dosa-like) wrappers made as Mr. Oloroso's mom and aunt made them. The
dough isn't a batter, but isn't a stiff dough that you can roll out
easily either. That's why I mentioned "apples and oranges" because Mr.
Oloroso mentioned his mom's and aunt's technique and then his own
technique of "rotating the pan to spread the dough." The same dough
wouldn't work for both techniques, as I can't see how a batter thin
enough to roll around a pan could be thick enough to hold in your hand
and slap on a pan as his mom did. Mr. Oloroso mentioned a 1-1 ratio of
flour to water and this indeed would produce a batter-like consistency
thin enough to roll around a bit in a pan. This appears to be the
Filipino lumpia batter you also speak of. But all the recipes I've seen
for the kind of process he remembers watching as a child call for a
roughly 2-1 ratio of flour to water, too thick to spread around by simply
rotating the pan. The goal and the results of both recipes, however,
would seem to be the same.
Thanks. I wonder if there is some benefit to those with a rough surface?
Or maybe they are just easier to make?
Are the cheaper versions just as good? Isn't it just a hunk of metal?
Peter
> Thanks. I wonder if there is some benefit to those with a rough surface?
> Or maybe they are just easier to make?
I don't know, I think it's probably just a case of the latter...more
cost-effective as well.
> Are the cheaper versions just as good? Isn't it just a hunk of metal?
Here's an area with similarities to all hobbies/avocations/collectibles:
those passionate about the subject will insist that cheaper pans do not
hold a season as well and, further, that the iron used may be of inferior
quality, I.e. raw material of secondary origin (think Great Leap Forward)
and more likely to crack under stress.
I was thinking of how you could really turn out a bunch of wrappers and
perhaps set up a table on your front stoop to hawk "Mama Oloroso's Lumpia
Wrappers" and remembered seeing one of these in action on a television
program:
http://www.bethanyhousewares.com/products13.html
Scroll down...it's a long way from the land of fjords, but if it's heavy
enough to stay put on the counter while you plop and pull the dough,
something like this would be close to ideal. The plug-in control, like
other griddles, would be especially attractive to lock in a steady
temperature.
Chris Dieckmann wrote:
I'd guess my circa 1861 20" iron pan is an old cheap pan.I still use it..I even hauled it
to Thailand, where my wife loves it, but can hardly lift it, thank god....I can almost
picture the many previous woman owners who've probably chased a husband with it over the
last 140 years or so...:)
I'm confused. Do you mean that what you call bo bing (Mandarin pancakes),
and Chun juan pi, AKA Shanghai spring roll wrappers are the same wrapper
made in two different ways, or that Chun juan pi and lumpia wrappers are the
same?
>Bo bing, frequently called Mandarin pancakes are indeed thicker
> wrappers rolled out and cooked on a hot, flat surface with no grease.
> They are usually rolled out and cooked two at a time and peeled apart
> afterwards. These are the ones I mentioned being served with Peking
> duck. Chun juan pi, AKA Shanghai spring roll wrappers, are also
> sometimes called bo bing, but they are paper thin (as you mentioned,
> dosa-like) wrappers made as Mr. Oloroso's mom and aunt made them. The
> dough isn't a batter, but isn't a stiff dough that you can roll out
> easily either. That's why I mentioned "apples and oranges" because Mr.
> Oloroso mentioned his mom's and aunt's technique and then his own
> technique of "rotating the pan to spread the dough." The same dough
> wouldn't work for both techniques, as I can't see how a batter thin
> enough to roll around a pan could be thick enough to hold in your hand
> and slap on a pan as his mom did.
But he didn't say that. He wrote that his aunt "scooped up some of the
batter in her cupped right hand and deftly spread it with a single
circular motion and in an even layer on the hot griddle." This could quite
easily be done with a batter of 1:1 flour to water. Well, maybe not easily,
but it can look easy with a lot of practice (as I have witnessed by watching
Indian chefs make dosa in a similar way).
>Mr. Oloroso mentioned a 1-1 ratio of
> flour to water and this indeed would produce a batter-like consistency
> thin enough to roll around a bit in a pan. This appears to be the
> Filipino lumpia batter you also speak of. But all the recipes I've seen
> for the kind of process he remembers watching as a child call for a
> roughly 2-1 ratio of flour to water, too thick to spread around by simply
> rotating the pan. The goal and the results of both recipes, however,
> would seem to be the same.
Perhaps the process you are imagining is different from the process I am
imagining (or at least the doughs we each imagine are different) and that is
why we differ in opinion. While the goal may be the same, the results, I
think would not quite be. If doing a taste test, I think one would be able
to discern a difference in texture and flavour between the two.
Also, for Arsenio, the recipes I have seen for lumpia wrappers 1:1:1 (flour,
water, egg). One recipes suggests brushing the batter onto a hot pan so
maybe you could try that. Also, all the recipes say to wait until the sides
of the wrappers come away from the pan before removing so perhaps you are
trying to remove them too soon.
rona
> I'm confused. Do you mean that what you call bo bing (Mandarin pancakes),
> and Chun juan pi, AKA Shanghai spring roll wrappers are the same wrapper
> made in two different ways, or that Chun juan pi and lumpia wrappers are the
> same?
In China, bo bing is one possible name for both the thicker pancakes and
the paper thin ones. If Filipino lumpia wrappers include egg, then no,
they aren't related to the wrappers found in most of China. If they are
composed of flour, water, and perhaps a dash of salt, cooked as thin as
possible on a hot griddle, then either filled with stuff and deep fried -
or eaten fresh with cold fillings- then no matter how they are made, they
are quite similar.
Here is the Filipino lumpia recipe I have (from Recipes of the Philippines,
by Enriqueta David-Perez, Quezon City, 1960, rev. englarged. Ed.)
Lumpia Wrapper
2 cups flour
1 cup cold water
Mix the water and flour well. Work continuously with the hands in up and
down motion until the gluten part of the flour will stick together into a
mass and dough can be picked up at once. Grease very slightly a clean
carajay. Drop a small ball of dough (in just a second) pressing it into a
round sheet lightly and evenly over the deep part of the carajay, lift and
pick very thin crust that sticks as it dries up.
Caution: Never make the heat of the fire too intense. Regulate it by using
charcoal. Grease the carajay very slightly in the beginning, but avoid
greasing it too often. When the wrapper is removed, scrape with a knife any
remaining dough in the carajay, and wipe it with a clean cloth, used for the
purpose. Trim neatly edges of the wrapper.
Peter
What is a "carajay"? Do you actually have one?
Arsenio
Hehe, no, I doubt it. I grew up eating very little Pinoy food -- my Mom is
European and she did almost all of the cooking. And the only relatives I
had in Cleveland were on her side of the family, so I grew up eating
kugelis, cepelinai, koldunai, kisielius, and such. And I only got to visit
the motherland in the early 90s.
>
> What is a "carajay"? Do you actually have one?
Sorry, I was tired and out of it when I posted, and I just wanted to type
out the recipe straight from the book. A carajay is just a wok. Do you
call it a kawali? I think it's the same.
Peter
[...]
nevermind that. what's 'pinoy'?
your pal,
blake
I think it's non-derogatory slang for a Philipino.
I'm inserting myself into this conversation, but which part of Luzon?
You're family doesn't know any Kilaykos, do they (not that all Filipinos
know each other, but there are Kilaykos everywhere and they're all related)?
My mother is a Kilayko from Negros.
rona
Ilocano country is north-western Luzon, though I don't know if that's where
Arsenio's parents are from. My family is from Luzon, but way at the
Southern end, after the island makes that twist, in Bicol country. Have you
been back?
Peter
>"Rona Yuthasastrakosol" <prasa...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>> I'm inserting myself into this conversation, but which part of Luzon?
>Ilocano country is north-western Luzon, though I don't know if that's where
>Arsenio's parents are from. My family is from Luzon, but way at the
>Southern end, after the island makes that twist, in Bicol country. Have you
>been back?
I'll insert myself also. My dad was from the Visayas, tho I was born
and raised in Chicago.
Back in the '80s, at a time I had almost forgotten my Filipino roots
(being far more concerned with raising a family and paying the rent),
I began traveling to the Phils on extended business trips an average
of once or twice a year.
Pretty mind-blowing.
Since this is a food ng, I will vow I've never tried balut or pulutan.
LeeBat
You should try balut, it's very good. You can get it here in the States
too, maybe easier at Vietnamese stores (forgot the Vietnamese name for it.)
Pulutan means "finger foods to accompany drinks", right? Like "botana" in
Mexico. Or did you have a particular one in mind?
Peter
>Pulutan means "finger foods to accompany drinks", right?
Exactly.
LeeBat
ain't talkin' while the flavor lasts ......
I was just wondering which town, specifically. I probably wouldn't know it,
anyway, but I was just curious.
>My family is from Luzon, but way at the
> Southern end, after the island makes that twist, in Bicol country. Have
you
> been back?
>
I spent a year in the Phil. when I was 10. My sister and I were supposed to
go for the summer but my grandparents thought we should stay the full year.
Of course, they didn't decide that till we were actually there, so we (my
sister and I) were stuck there. I don't have a lot of good memories of the
Phil., but I remember the food :-). I still think about fried osoos (sp?)
and the fried pork the maid used to make. And the ensaimada and pandesal
fresh from the oven. Mmmm. And the frozen popsicle like stuff in coconut,
avocado, or other yummy flavours. I can't remember what it was called.
Maybe Agogo?
rona
Where abouts? My mother's family is from Talisay or thereabouts. I lived
in Bacolod but went to Talisay to visit relatives and once or twice to the
Catabla.
rona