What Oil to Use
emc...@yahoo.com
I changed the oil at 75 hours, then again last week at 177 hours.
Both oil changes I've use 30W Castrol.
I thought oil was oil. I didn't realize diesel engine oil has a C
something ratings.
Is this oil ok?
Or should I switch to a diesel oil at next oil change?
Or would it be better to switch it now?
Huw
Switch it now and RTFM with reference to all service requirements! If
you do not have one, get one, read it until you know it backwards.
Simple.
A high detergent oil is needed with API CD rating or higher [eg CE,
CF4, CG4]. This is not negotiable with your horrible high sulphur
fuel!
Huw
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Ed C.
classification on the oil you are using. If there is not any API service CD,
CF, or CG then change the oil NOW! I do not know where you are in the
world, but also seriously consider using a multi-viscosity oil in your
engine.
--
Ed C.
(remove eight caps to reply)
<emc...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:q9c4b09ep00kt7mvp...@4ax.com...
Eb
On the hood of the tractor it sais to use 30W year-round, or either
use 10-10W, 10-20W, 10-30W depending on outside temperature.
It sais nothing on the label about API ratings. I just heard someone
talking about diesel oils and thought I would ask.
Castrol is SL, SH, & SJ rated.
I guess I'll change oil to be safe.
On Mon, 24 May 2004 23:25:16 GMT, "Ed C." <ed.ano...@verizon.net>
wrote:
Eb
It didn't come with a owner manual, I guess I'll order one.
There is a big label under the hood that list all the filters, fluid
capacities, and change intervals. But it said nothing about API
rating's for the oil.
Live and Learn....
Ed C.
BEFORE you start your Kioti engine, try pouring SAE 30 oil out of a can.
Then imagine the how well that cold oil flows to the oil pump as the engine
starts. SAE 10 oil in the winter is good for starting, but becomes very
"thin" at normal operating temperature. My choice, based on your hood
sticker options, would be 10W-30 year 'round.
--
Ed C.
(remove eight caps to reply)
"Eb" <emc...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:ra65b09h3586qo0d2...@4ax.com...
emc...@yahoo.com
prevents the temperatue in the garage from going below 35 degrees. So
cold starting isn't too much of a problem.
This weekend I'll probably change the oil again and I may switch to
10W-30
I guess I'll go with Shell Rotella oil it seems to be popular and
readily available in the this area.
Should I change oil filter again too? Or will the small cup full of
Castrol oil left behind in the filter be insignificant.
Its a small filter can't hold more than 8 ounces.
Thanks,
Ed C.
starting and watch the oil (not) drip off the end.
Change the filter? Your engine. Your choice.
--
Ed C.
(remove eight caps to reply)
<emc...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:cdd6b09k6l6m7ruot...@4ax.com...
Huw
> I keep the tractor in the garage and the heat from the house
ususally
> prevents the temperatue in the garage from going below 35 degrees.
So
> cold starting isn't too much of a problem.
>
> This weekend I'll probably change the oil again and I may switch to
> 10W-30
>
> I guess I'll go with Shell Rotella oil it seems to be popular and
> readily available in the this area.
The oil that is most useful for tractors is 10w/30 Super Universal
Tractor Oil [known as SUTO or STOU] because this is good for engines
and gearboxes, even those that have wet brakes and wet PTO and power
shift clutches. It will even replace EP85w/90 in most front axles.
If you are very particular about your oil and are an intensive heavy
duty user, which I dare say you are not, then do avoid oil that meets
CG4 as it provides inferior top end protection compared to CF4 and
CH4.
Glenn
"Huw" <hedydd[nospam]@tiscali.co.uk> wrote in message
news:40b3b8b9$1...@mk-nntp-2.news.uk.tiscali.com...
> emc...@yahoo.com wrote:
> > I keep the tractor in the garage and the heat from the house
> ususally
> > prevents the temperatue in the garage from going below 35 degrees.
> So
> > cold starting isn't too much of a problem.
> >
> > This weekend I'll probably change the oil again and I may switch to
> > 10W-30
> >
> > I guess I'll go with Shell Rotella oil it seems to be popular and
> > readily available in the this area.
I think oil weight is important but aren't we getting a little *too* worried
about it?
My twin Cessna airplane (by the book) used 50 weight. If you were going to
do a *lot* of starting below 10 degrees then they had a oil thinner kit for
it. You oil freaks will flip out when you hear what it did. Just a few
minutes before you shut down, (incidentally, you never just turn the key
off, you cut the mixture to starve it to death), you hold a button a set
number of seconds to pump 1, 2, 3 quarts of gasoline (in my case, 100
octane) into the crankcase. If memory serves me right, it burned off
(evaporated) in about 20 min of flying.
Glenn
Huw
> "Huw" <hedydd[nospam]@tiscali.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:40b3b8b9$1...@mk-nntp-2.news.uk.tiscali.com...
>> emc...@yahoo.com wrote:
>>> I keep the tractor in the garage and the heat from the house
>> ususally
>>> prevents the temperatue in the garage from going below 35 degrees.
>> So
>>> cold starting isn't too much of a problem.
>>>
>>> This weekend I'll probably change the oil again and I may switch
to
>>> 10W-30
>>>
>>> I guess I'll go with Shell Rotella oil it seems to be popular and
>>> readily available in the this area.
>
> I think oil weight is important but aren't we getting a little *too*
> worried about it?
>
But I am not at all worried about it.
For most modern diesel engines working from -15 any 15w/* 10w/* to a
0w/* will do. For the hot end of the spectrum then any of the above
with *w/30 or *w/40 will do. The /40's will be good in the hottest and
heaviest duty conditions.
Personally, I tend to use 10w/30, 10w/40synthetic or 15w/40 in all non
car diesels and most car diesels and trucks. The exceptions tend to be
engines such as modern BMW which have specific specifications within a
0w/30 viscosity and some GM, Ford and Honda engines which need a very
light viscosity such as 0w/30, 5w/30 or even 5w/20.
There are almost always a *range of viscosity combinations* suitable
for a given range of temperatures and suitable for an engine type.
These will almost certainly be listed in the operators manual.
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Scott
jockies here in the far Northern U.S. use some variation of heating pad
or dipstick oil heater to pre-heat the oil, such as Tanis or E-Z heat.
Worst case scenario, we drain the oil after a flight and take it inside
the house and put the oil back in during the next pre-flight inspection.
Of course, there are some real redneck pilots up here that just keep
the hangar heated ;)
Scott
Corben Junior Ace, Open cockpit winter flyer, Continental 65
Farmall Super A
Glenn
*cold* day in a little borrowed Moonie(sp). It sat over night and was iced
up so I requested the operator to spray alcohol deicer. He couldn't find it
and said just pull it into the hanger and melt it off. I said, "Gee
thanks." Thanks hell, he charged me $75 bucks to open the hanger door the
second time. It started good though. ;-)
Glenn
"Scott" <acep...@bloomer.net> wrote in message
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