Ford 8N carb trouble

[JBW]

I have a '48 8n Ford that has always started up on the first few
cranks. I made a major mastake and decided to power wash. After
power washing I lost spark the wires needed replacing anyways so I
replaced the plugs, wires, points, condenser, cap and rotor. I now
have good spark but no gas getting to the plugs. I took apart the
carb and cleaned, replaced the gaskets the float seem to work, does
not stick.

When I crank over the motor nothing, when I stop gas pores out of the
carb intake. Does not seem to want to transfer gas to the cylinders?
Check the pluds and they are dry.

Any ideas what I broke?

Thanks,
John

[Jagren]

Leave the distributor cap off for awhile there may still be some dampness
inside. I usually pack the underside of the cap with scott paper towel or
bathroom tissue, put the cap back in place and let it sit and wait for the
absorbant paper to gather all the moister. After about an hour remove the
paper and try to re start your engine.

With the amount of gasoline you describe leaking from the carb intake you
should have at least a missfire, If you are getting this much gasoline at
the carb intake you either has a bad float ajustment or you are flooding the
engine trying to start it. Those updraft carbs can be deceiving.
Regards
G
"JBW" <jjl...@altelco.net> wrote in message
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[John Ernst]

To help remove dampness from the distributor (which I agree might be the
problem) spray a small amount of WD40 in the distributor cap. This will help
remove the moister from it.

(FYI, for those of you that have small kids around, WD40 is also great for
removing crayon marks from walls)

Hope this helps

John Ernst

"Jagren" <g_el...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:10bqtcd...@corp.supernews.com...

[Bob Noble]

Get yourself a can of starting fluid. Can be had at any parts store.
Spray some in the carb intake and try to start. If it fires, you have a gas
problem. If it doesn't fire, you have an electrical problem.

--
Bob Noble
http://www.sonic.net/bnoble

"JBW" <jjl...@altelco.net> wrote in message
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[Jagren]

I wouldnt recomend using Either on any engine unless you have experiance
with it. A good buddy used starting fluid on my Thomas Skidsteer and ruined
my 6 cylinder Kabota diesel engine. Read the tags attached to your equipment
or service manual befor using either.

Regards
G

"Bob Noble" <bno...@sonic.net> wrote in message
news:l7yvc.14771$Fo4.2...@typhoon.sonic.net...

[Ed C.]

Do NOT use starting fluid.
Especially on a spark ignited engine
Especially on your own engine.

--
Ed C.
(remove eight caps to reply)

"Bob Noble" <bno...@sonic.net> wrote in message
news:l7yvc.14771$Fo4.2...@typhoon.sonic.net...

[Bob Noble]

Hi Ed,
I fully expected someone to say this. :O)

Using starting fluid on diesels, one has to be careful of, because of kick
back, but using it on gas engines doesn't seem to bother them at all.

I was surprised when an old timer told me to use it on my gas rototiller the
first time and found it works like a charm, with no kick back problems.
Can't hurt a gas engine with it. This is all from a life of practical
experience. :O)

--
Bob Noble
http://www.sonic.net/bnoble

"Ed C." <ed.anonymo...@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:YuDvc.23667$LS6....@nwrdny01.gnilink.net...

[Bob Noble]

Either or starting fluid should be used by squirting a second or two of it
into the air intake, preferably into the carb. Note, I said into the carb,
no diesel here.The engine is than cranked to see if it will start, or what
it will do, to find a problem. On small engines, sometimes doing this after
the engine has been sitting a long time, will clear the carb and you will be
on your way. You will not hurt an 8n doing this.

--
Bob Noble
http://www.sonic.net/bnoble

"Jagren" <g_el...@hotmail.com> wrote in message

news:10bteps...@corp.supernews.com...

[JBW]

Here is where I am, first thanks for all the help!

I replaced the Plugs, wire, points, condenser, cap and rotor. Set the
points at .015, set the timing on the distributor per direction on
www.nseries.com

I pulled the plugs and cranked her over, I could watch each one fire,
cylinder 1 (front of tractor, then 2, then 4 rear, then 3. The spark
looked good.

Dumped a little gas down each clyinder, put them back, nothing.

Next night tried a little starting fluid, nothing.

I can feel good suction if I put my hand over the air intake of the
carb.

I jumpered the ballast resistor, nothing.

Could I have the timing 180° out?

Thanks again,
John

"Bob Noble" <bno...@sonic.net> wrote in message news:<L8Jvc.14841$Fo4.2...@typhoon.sonic.net>...

[Bob Noble]

Hi John,
If it doesn't fire with the starting fluid, it's likely something wrong with
the electrical, and yes, you could have anything wrong. :O) But you now know
it's not the fuel. At least you don't need to worry about it, until you get
the electrical right.

Since you say it has good spark, it very likely could be the firing order
out 180.

--
Bob Noble
http://www.sonic.net/bnoble
"JBW" <jjl...@altelco.net> wrote in message

news:fcd19bf6.0406...@posting.google.com...

[JBW]

After reading some posts about compression and not having a
compression tester available I decided to put a cap full of motor oil
down each cylinder, cranked her over, nothing.

Came in to eat, went back out now its dark, pushed to button and she
fired up and ran great, a little smoke from the oil.

Is this because low compression and the oil helped compression and
suck the gas up?

Thanks

"Bob Noble" <bno...@sonic.net> wrote in message news:<L8Jvc.14841$Fo4.2...@typhoon.sonic.net>...

[Bob Noble]

Hi John,
It sure sounds like that, but putting a squirt of starting fluid in the carb
should have done the same thing for you.

--
Bob Noble
http://www.sonic.net/bnoble
"JBW" <jjl...@altelco.net> wrote in message

news:fcd19bf6.04060...@posting.google.com...

[Jagren]

Ahh thats a good one, we missed the fact the engine is worn out. For a cheap
overhaul, try some BonAmi through the carb intake once the engine is running
at half throttle . Dont like BonAmi go to Finning and purchase some break in
poweder. ( Same Thing ) Maybe this will seat your rings on, er providing
they are not broken.

Regards
G

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[myfo...@yahoo.com]

On 3 Jun 2004 20:30:44 -0700, jjl...@altelco.net (JBW) wrote:

>After reading some posts about compression and not having a
>compression tester available I decided to put a cap full of motor oil
>down each cylinder, cranked her over, nothing.
>
>Came in to eat, went back out now its dark, pushed to button and she
>fired up and ran great, a little smoke from the oil.
>
>Is this because low compression and the oil helped compression and
>suck the gas up?
>

Lots of possibilities. Being a shade tree professional myself, I go
for the cheap and easy explanation--it was flooded and it cleared
itself somewhat in the time you were eating. Tomorrow if it starts
cold without adding the oil, you can consider this possibility more
seriously.

[Ed C.]

I am concerned that the piston rings might not be seating due to the gas
(and ether?) in each cylinder. With the spark plugs out (again) check that
compression is the same in each cylinder, possibly placing a finger over, or
near, each plug hole as the engine is turned over. I could suggest a squirt
of oil in each cylinder (to improve ring seating), but if too much oil ends
up on top of the piston it would result in poorer combustion at the time we
need a clean combustion chamber.. Anyway, check the compression at each
hole.

Not being familiar with 8N, I do not know if valves lifters, etc) are easily
visible. If they are, and if the timing is 180* out, then you should see the
exhaust valve almost fully closed as the intake valve starts to open. This
would confirm the timing is 180* out.

Let us know how you make out.

--
Ed C.
(remove eight caps to reply)

"JBW" <jjl...@altelco.net> wrote in message
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[Ed C.]

Bob,
I have seen inexperienced users of ether use too much and 'wash' the
cylinder walls dry of lubricating oil. But then, how does one become
experienced?

You and I have agreed to disagree.

--
Ed C.
(remove eight caps to reply)

"Bob Noble" <bno...@sonic.net> wrote in message

news:NUSvc.14944$Fo4.2...@typhoon.sonic.net...

[Bob Noble]

No problem in disagreeing. :O)

There are a lot of tools in my tool box and any one of them can be misused.
It's always good to get all sides of an issue.

--
Bob Noble
http://www.sonic.net/bnoble
"Ed C." <ed.anonymo...@verizon.net> wrote in message

news:YqZvc.20996$bD4....@nwrdny02.gnilink.net...

[Glenn]

Reminds me of a sub-contractor I had some 40 years ago. He had just bought
a old diesel tractor with a highloader and backhoe on the back and was
trying to start it. It was 10 below that morning, by the way. The previous
owner showed him there were a couple ports on the intake manifold to prime
it on a cold day but he missed that part. When I got there, he had 5 empty
cans of starting fluid on the ground and it just wouldn't start.

He showed me what he was doing. Spraying the fluid on the outside of
manifold. As I said, he missed the part of the priming ports. One shot and
it started fine.

PS. I remember it was a diesel but I was thinking all diesels were
injected. Could it have been a gas engine?

Glenn

"Bob Noble" <bno...@sonic.net> wrote in message

news:lgJvc.14844$Fo4.2...@typhoon.sonic.net...

[Bob Noble]

That's what I was thinking also. Trying to sort out someone's tractor
problems from afar, leaves a lot of possibilities. It's just not like being
there. :O)

Also, the tractor was working before he started all this, so it's unlikely
just worn out all of a sudden.

--
Bob Noble
http://www.sonic.net/bnoble

<myfo...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:8ua0c0t3qfgsfhkg1...@4ax.com...

[JBW]

This has sure been interesting,

Ed C. – from your post you were all over it.

This has been going on for a week or so, I was only able to work on it
a little at a time due to schedule, I would bet the gas dried out the
cylinders as I did not try the either until the night I got it going.

Anyway, I ran it for about a hour tonight moved some dirt and she ran
fine.

Why does it take 3 – 9 hours to post a message on Goggle???

Thanks again.

"Bob Noble" <bno...@sonic.net> wrote in message news:<FE1wc.14995$Fo4.2...@typhoon.sonic.net>...

[Bob Noble]

As far as I know, all diesels are injected, but they still have intake
manifolds.
We used to have an old Cleat Track, I think it was, that we removed the
manifold plugs and put a blow torch in each for awhile, just to start it any
ol time. What a pain. I like my new turn the key in the ignition diesel. :O)

It was common to use starting fluid on older diesel tractors to start them,
especially if they had worn rings and bad compression. I think today's
diesel tractors have too much compression or maybe it's the pre-ignition
champers that make it a bad idea to use it on today's diesel tractors.
Anyway, luckily, one doesn't need it to test a diesel engine that won't fire
with starting fluid. If it's getting diesel, today's engine will usually
fire.

--
Bob Noble
http://www.sonic.net/bnoble

"Glenn" <pil...@planet.com> wrote in message
news:10c18vn...@corp.supernews.com...

[Glenn]

Well sure, I had switched my brain off there for a while. Has to get air
somewhere!!

Ether may put us to sleep but it sure livened up that old diesel.

Glenn

"Bob Noble" <bno...@sonic.net> wrote in message

news:pZcwc.15164$Fo4.2...@typhoon.sonic.net...

[Ed C.]

Glenn,
Some of the old InterTrashionals used a TD14 (and UD14 and UD16A etc) engine
which used the same four cylinders to run on gas, warm up the block, then a
manual lever closed off the spark plug and gas intake ports and turned on
the diesel fuel components and presto! diesel engine running. Well, only if
someone remembered to add conditioner when refueling last time...

--
Ed C.
(remove eight caps to reply)

"Glenn" <pil...@planet.com> wrote in message
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