series 2a siezed clutch

[Andy]

the clutch on my 2a ( which was stood for 18 month ) has seized on,
i think, the clutch pedal goes to the floor but is rather stiff, when
its to the floor i cant select any gears.

is there any way to free it, if it IS siezed that is, its a single
reservoir for both brake and clutch, and brakes work ok ( ish )

maybe starting it in gear or a big hammer ( but i don't know what id
hit with it,)

any advice ?

thanks

Andy
1989 Toyota Landcruiser 2 VX Turbo
1970 Land Rover SWB Series 2a "Nelly"
1974 Land Rover SWB Series 3 "Roofus"
3 kids
a dog
and 4 mice

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[Howard]

I had the same problem, and so I removed the small cover on top of the bell
housing, and filled it with HOT water with some detergent in it. The thermal
shock was enough to free it, and the detergent removed the oil that had
leaked past the rear seal and caused the stick in the first instance.
Then I removed the wader plug at the bottom of the bell housing and let it
all out over the drive....!

--

regards
Howard

[Alan Esson]

Andy, start the engine and get it up to temperature then stop the engine,
select first gear and with the clutch engaged start the engine again, if it
hasn't freed itself give it some accelerator, if you can do this uphill to
increase the load so much the better.
good luck

"Andy" <ellabb...@Hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:3h786uocbkfv9mt3j...@4ax.com...

[Tanuki the Raccoon-dog]

In <3h786uocbkfv9mt3j...@4ax.com>, Andy
<ellabb...@Hotmail.com> said

>the clutch on my 2a ( which was stood for 18 month ) has seized on,
>i think, the clutch pedal goes to the floor but is rather stiff, when
>its to the floor i cant select any gears.
>
>is there any way to free it, if it IS siezed that is, its a single
>reservoir for both brake and clutch, and brakes work ok ( ish )
>
>maybe starting it in gear or a big hammer ( but i don't know what id
>hit with it,)

Before you try that, try this:

Get someone to push the clutch pedal down, then, at the slave-cylinder
end, wedge something in the actuating mechanism to keep it in the
clutch-depressed position.

Leave it like this for a couple of days. Without the clutch pressure-
plate actually clamping the friction-plate hard to the flywheel, it
will often separate of its own accord.

You've got nothing to lose in trying this, and you might just avoid
the risk of breaking something which can happen if you use brute-force.

[Griff]

This method worked for me too on my series 1
See below (thanks to Fergus Kendall)

The clutch plate has stuck whilst it's been standing, there are a number of
ways to free it off I'll start with the least violent and work my way up:

1) This is worth a try but often isn't enough to do the trick alone: Block
the clutch pedal right down to the floor for a few days, if you are lucky
the clutch will come free with a clunk after a while. (I have heard some
people warm up the bell housing with a blow torch but I'd be a bit worried
about doing that if there is much oil on it)

2) I have never tried this method but have heard of it being used on a few
occasions: Start the vehicle in high range 1st and head for an A-Road
working up through the gears as best you can without a clutch and drive with
the clutch blocked down, once in 4th continue until there is a bang and the
clutch breaks free. A chap I know who released their Series 2 clutch
sucessfully this way drove 15 miles on the A14 dual caridgeway before the
clutch eventually came free.

3) This is probably the best known method of releasing any cars stuck clutch
but I have fine tuned it a bit for Series Land Rovers. Start the vehicle
with the transfer box in neutral and the gearbox in second (this helps warm
the bell housing and gearbox) and allow it to run for about 15-30 minutes to
warm up . Cut the engine put the transfer box in low range and start the
vehicle in gear (It is best if the clutch remains blocked down from the
process in 1) once moving at a reasonable speed repeatedly brake causing the
vehicle to lurch, the clutch should hopefully free off with a bang
eventually, repeat this also using reverse until sucessful, a slight
variation on this is to simply brake until the engine stalls but this can be
a little harsh on the half shafts and I would only recommend it as a last
resort.

Hope this helps, let us know how you get along, good luck!
Fergus Kendall

"Tanuki the Raccoon-dog" <Tanuki@canis-^Hmajor.da^Hemon.co.uk> wrote in
message news:wQnSv4AT...@canismajor.demon.co.uk...

[JD]

The brakes and clutch have the same reservoir, but there is a divider inside
so that loss of fluid from either circuit does not affect the other. The
clutch uses the inside division, so if it is the plastic reservoir it looks
as if it is full even though there is no fluid for the clutch. First remove
the lid and use a torch and mirror to make sure there is fluid for the
clutch, and then check the clutch hydraulics are really working - have
someone operate the pedal while you watch the slave cylinder from below.
Then follow other suggestions already given.
JD

Andy <ellabb...@Hotmail.com> wrote in message
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